Rockfax Description
The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached directly up the steep and awkward crack below it, although those impatient individuals who can't wait to get at the main event, often climb the wall to the left. Gear in the back of the groove is hard to place (offsets?), especially for the short. Once suitably protected bridge-a-way to glory making suitable use of the left-hand arete. Many pre-place the gear in the groove on abseil which reduces the commitment and possibly the grade. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Neal Jobling 13/Apr TR dnf
with Andy Burr
ferdia 25/Mar Lead dog

thought i'd give it a go placing gear on lead. managed to panic-fill the finger slot and so had one fall going for the top. amazing climbing. wild moves. think I'd like to do it again. really strenuous placing gear on lead - e5?

with Andy
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/14 Lead
mike mo ??/2014 -
The old James turnbull 26/Sep/13 Lead

pre placed the gear and them fell on it quite a few times to say the least before doing it all clean. awsome, but hard, till you do it.

with drew
Apharri 07/Sep/13 Lead RP

Really ard

with Jim Gayler
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead
Hannes B 09/Mar/12 Lead dnf
with Tom
Hannes B 21/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Mike, Tom
Hannes B 17/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Emlyn
highlux 11/Mar/11 Lead RP

Fell on onsight go (with purple metolius preplaced), then worked crux on top rope. Returned 3 days later and redpointed second go. Super classic & with awesome movement. Found that purple metolius fitted better than any of my nuts would in key placement.

with Martin Veale
PeteH 08/Mar/11 TR dnf

I was just pleased to even get to the crux! Crux itself is brutal, and would be very hairy without having preplaced the gear in the groove...

with Mark Watson, Chris Fox
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
malx ?/Mar/10 Lead G/U
dannyboy83 16/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Didn't bother placing a wire as that would get in the way of handhold, felt about E4

with Nils
JulesV 23/Sep/09 Lead dog

Fell going for top after placing wire on lead

with Eszter
DaveFidler ?/Jul/09 TR dnf
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S

Hint: Brass offset

with Mark Tolver
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Tom Randall
lx 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S

pure onsight, placed wire on lead, (without knowing the size), so will claim the E5 grade!

with fat boy
mattyork2 24/Jun/07 TR dnf
with Olly Pollard
Jerry Handren ?/May/06 Lead O/S

used a Purple TCU in the key placement, hard to place but seemed good when I rapped down to get the gear after the ascent.

redjerry ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Josh Horniak
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Gus 11/Dec/05 Lead rpt

pre placed wire, defo E5 placing the wire on lead

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead β

Pre-placed the wire, having tried it ground-up and been unable to.

Hidden ??/2000 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Aug/98 Lead rpt
with Al Willoner
Mike Owen 17/May/98 -
with Elaine Owen
ste_d 16/May/96 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 16/May/96 2nd dog
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Cowflinger 26/May/92 TR
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 28/Sep/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
shark 23/Sep/85 Lead
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/84 2nd
Hidden ?/May/84 Lead β
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead β

Placed the wire on the lead. Had previously followed Ed Woof up it.

with Steve Warwick
petemeads 05/Sep/78 Lead

With the knowledge of how to manufacture/place the vital runner, having watched Steve Bancroft's failed attempt and the magazine pictures of the Berzins brothers' ascent for guidance. Still hard!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Derek Ryden, Hidden, Hidden, Craig Barton, Hidden, BFG, ashtond6, GlenCoco, Hidden, Matthew Ferrier, Hidden, Nick1812P, Luke_G, bclifton, Harry Chaplin, truckmonkey, Andy Peak 1, Dan Geh, Mr Wild, jonnybull, tgeh, Gaz22, Hidden, Hidden, James Oakes, petellis, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, craig d, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden, Hidden, rocktigger, Birdo, Oddjob, Hidden, lukea, tatz45, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 13
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set