Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Waterloo Sunset** E3 5c

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[Count The Cams - Mark20 First E3,Waterloo Sunset, Gardoms - 'Well cba to carry them', 3 kb]16m. The last of Gardomís quality E3s, is a bold arete climb which is often green. Start on the right and climb to a break where runners protect the moves up and left to easier ground. The climbing is surprisingly un-arete-like! © ROCKFAX
FA. Martin Boysen 1977

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List.

Photo: Count The Cams - Mark20 First E3,Waterloo Sunset, Gardoms - 'Well cba to carry them' © tiga271
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/14

definitely easier for the tall - still some great moves up there above your gear though!
thomb - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Jess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

danoflynn - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Andy Barker

Took a whipper off this from just below the mega sized ledge, greg did very well to keep me off the ground. I escaped with a ropeburned nose and a bit of whiplash! Got greasy, got scared, got sweaty , weeeee!
Adam Moroz - Lead dnf - 20/May/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 06/May/12

Kyle Rance - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Ollie Hoffman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11

wolverine - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11

catblack - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/11 with Skippy

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Oct/10

Dunk-RB - 2nd β - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/10

Excellent little climb that typifies the brilliance of short gritstone routes. Seconding, Ian found a different way of reaching the good hold on the arete - he approached it from the right hand side, thus avoiding the precarious snatch that I had to do to get to it from the left. The sequence from the good hold is no push over either and goes into increasingly dangerous territory. First tried this back in September 2007 when I was leading E1 - it looks deceptively easy but, unsurprisingly, proved to be too hard for me at the time so I got some air time and bailed. Nice to now make amends.
Misha - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ian B

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/10

Belayed Mark - declined second to ,ahem, save on sight ;-)
tiga271 - 15/May/10 with mark20

First E3
mark20 - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

Seconded then led. First E3
nathanlee - Lead RP - 28/Apr/10 with Dom Lee

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Jules

JulesV - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/10 with Shauna Cunningham

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with nathan lee

migs493 - 2nd β - 17/Apr/10 with LO

Boy - 25/Oct/09 with Fiona Fullwood

Led clean o/s by Pete. Rockover from the break proved too hard for me on a warm evening. Topped out in the dark.
Dinger - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/08 with Pete Davies

Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with Bridget

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/07 with Ed Brown

Previously top-roped in Nov 06.
Stig - Lead RP - 20/Oct/07 with Jonathan Teale

Coel Hellier - Lead - 21/Apr/07

v.jester - Lead β - Apr/07 with alex

good moves. felt well protected and easy really. like a 5+ boulder problem above bomber cams
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07 with Vash

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with dan cheetham

Stig - TR O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

got cold hands. found the crux okish but then got colder hands just after and got scared going to ledge off incut pocket. Class in a glass route.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/05 with Alex Mason

Fire Marshall - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05 with Rich White

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

bigphil - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04 with Nick

chrishedgehog - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/04 with Erwin, Snod et al

ste_d - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/98 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/97

Terrifying!
goi.ashmore - Lead β - 15/Sep/97 with James Tracey

phardman - Lead - 03/Aug/96 with Guy Maddox

Yourlead - 2nd dnf - 12/Jun/95 with Graham Penny

Roget - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/92 with JT

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/91 with Andy Mackay

Nick Rundall - 2nd dog - 1990

sadams - Lead - Sep/86 with Mark Bonham

andy gittins - 1985

mark-abz - TR - 18/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Jan/83 with Paul Clark

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Hidden - TR - 23/Aug/80

Hidden - TR - 30/Mar/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
rurp, Hidden, Batt, Hidden, The Bad Cough, Jonathan Hall, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 63
hard E40 of 21
E40 of 21
easy E45 of 21
hard E31 of 21
E310 of 21
easy E35 of 21
hard E20 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E20 of 21
hard 6a0 of 21
6a0 of 21
easy 6a0 of 21
hard 5c4 of 21
5c16 of 21
easy 5c1 of 21
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b0 of 21
3 Stars15 of 21
2 Stars6 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead32 of 55 (58.2%)
Followed14 of 55 (25.5%)
Toproped4 of 55 (7.3%)
Unknown5 of 55 (9.1%)

'Climbed'15 of 55 (27.3%)
clean O/S24 of 55 (43.6%)
clean β5 of 55 (9.1%)
clean rpt2 of 55 (3.6%)
clean RP3 of 55 (5.5%)
dogged4 of 55 (7.3%)
dnf2 of 55 (3.6%)