Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Bitter* VS 5a

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[Jez Wilton and Mark Readman on Bitter, Gardoms, 4 kb]8m. The thin crack with a useful spike (nut either side or a tape over it) is technical and slippery but nice and safe. © ROCKFAX
FA. Eric Finney 1960s 1965

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Photo: Jez Wilton and Mark Readman on Bitter, Gardoms © KevinGibbs
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 311 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/13

Hard work! I lead up pulled ropes and Tom lead again on my gear. Unfortunately between the two of us we put a bit of weight on a nut which got proper jammed and took a combination of Cherelle on second, Tom on abseil and me on abseil to budge! Pretty happy with this despite how short it was!
MPSBunny - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Cherelle Fielding, Tom Luff

giuly - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Neil Shephard, Chris Saunders

hipyhop - Lead dog - 06/May/13 with Ben

slacky - 2nd rpt - 06/May/13 with Giulia Forlati, Chris Saunders

ajc - Solo rpt - 05/May/13

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with James

Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Becster

becster - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Mark_Day

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin

RusseyB - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/13

al123 - Sent - 21/Apr/13 with Crew

One move wonder, but a good and technical one.
Jimbo C - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/13

jkarran - Lead - 14/Apr/13 with Aly

Fell off the top bit on first attempt. Short, but nice.
Ramblin dave - Lead RP - 13/Apr/13 with Paul B

cem - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/13 with Paul Baxter, Dave Sim

Hidden - Solo - 31/Mar/13

kwaidy - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with sting

sting - 2nd - 23/Feb/13 with kwaidy

bclifton - Lead - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/12

UnkArl - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with Rik, Debbie

teamrob - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12 with Chris

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Oct/12

scottdurrant - Oct/12

scottdurrant - Lead O/S - Oct/12

Benchmark VS 5a. Never too hard, but have to think throughout. Would get a star or two if it were a bit longer.
climbingrev - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Tim Angell

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/12

franhammond92 - 2nd - 02/Sep/12

JHiley - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

ElvisLeg - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Charlie Burbridge

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/12

Peakology - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Chalkycat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Dom

nice micro route :)
JamieSparkes - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/12 with alex minshall, Daf

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead β - Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/12

alex thackway - Lead - 25/May/12 with Dave m

David Kay - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Mynydd C.C.

lm610 - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Dale, Diane Blything

JEP - Lead - 22/May/12

Hidden - TR - 22/May/12

chrisbussell - Solo - 15/May/12

al123 - Solo - 12/May/12

Nick Rundall - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with Leon Skeldon

leon - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Nick Rundall, Steven Davidson

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/12

alexcollins123 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 08/Apr/12

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 08/Apr/12

john lynch - Solo O/S - 26/Feb/12

ash longreach - Lead - 2012

Nordie_matt - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/11 with Matt JM Stevens

Matt JM Stevens - 2nd - 26/Dec/11

Brown - Solo - 27/Nov/11 with Solo

al123 - Solo O/S - 26/Nov/11

lozowen - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/11

Whealiebob - Lead rpt - 25/Oct/11 with Dave Saxby, Terry

Sarah Brookes - TR O/S - 24/Oct/11 with terry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

quite enjoyable, technical climbing up a finger-width crack
GermanAlex - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Robby

monkeyme2 - 2nd dog - 02/Oct/11 with German Alex

charley - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/11 with Clare

On the shunt. Fingers gave up on the E2 next door so did this instead.
charley - TR O/S - 24/Sep/11

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/11 with Gareth Lewis

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Dad

Well protected- actually found a finger crack that is quite pleasant !
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Bob/Tom

sam coward - Lead RP - 30/Jul/11 with Liz, Helen

Nice fingery climbing on positive holds.
wishicud climbHVS - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Big Fat Dan

bigdan050 - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with Tosh

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/11

daviesp2 - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Tom

Curly Rich - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with GMC Tim C

freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Paul Davies

teamrob - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/11

slacky - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Andes

gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Jonathan

Barry D - 2nd - 01/Jun/11 with Jon P

JEP - Lead - 01/Jun/11

Jim Brownlow - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

riddle - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Mike Stephenson

wolverine - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Sarah Marks

Jim Malo - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with Mark Roberts

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/11

Mikael - Lead - 14/May/11

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11

geddicakes - Lead - 30/Apr/11 with James Restorick

naffan - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Clement

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Lenny - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Paul

jo86 - Lead - 10/Apr/11

martin one - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/11 with Joe

pete1993 - 2nd - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Apr/11

nai - Solo rpt - 25/Mar/11

Dave Mason - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Trev Tatler

some really nice moves
catblack - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Skippy

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 06/Mar/11

Ketu - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - Solo - 05/Mar/11

nathanlee - Solo O/S - 18/Jan/11

mwatson - 2011

gingerwolf - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/10

Belier - Solo O/S - 13/Nov/10 with i'ma solo solo

Once at the spike things ease up
Jeremy Wilton - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Anne Wynn, Mark Readman

Well lead by Jez, I didn't like the look of the gear on this one.
krikoman - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with 1_Jez Wilton, Anne Wynn

DaNo123 - 2nd - 06/Sep/10 with jon boy

Steve J P - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with BW

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with sp

DaveFidler - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Thomas Welch, Arron Quinn

Ron - 2nd - Sep/10 with Pete

payeo20 - 2nd - 29/Aug/10

Tala M - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Rich

ajc - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Loved this route, steep & fingery
simon mitchie - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Jul/10

Jez - Solo O/S - 30/Jun/10

Ander - Lead - 04/Jun/10 with World Class 'Articulate' player

Excellent and well protected. Felt more like climbing than apple arete
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Peak CC, Saffra

zappa - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Emma Wright

emmafromSB - 2nd - 31/May/10 with zappa

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10

John Pickles - Solo O/S - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/May/10

mattyork2 - Solo - 23/May/10

Graeme Hammond - Solo O/S - 16/May/10

Blisco - TR - 15/May/10

danleyden - TR O/S - 15/May/10

first two bits of gear came out, struggled to get the nut in on the spike, completed just in time to rest on gear
Joe Noake - Lead dog - 02/May/10 with Ed Throp

dissapointed I had to put weight on the rope whilst I used a hex as a hammer along with the nut key to romove the nut Joe had loaded. Couldn't get it out with only one hand.
Ed Throp - 2nd dog - 02/May/10 with joe noake

gw66 - Lead dog - 25/Apr/10

max_chan - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Lou

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/10

migs493 - Solo O/S - 17/Apr/10 with LO

Foot slipped and fell so then took lots of rests. Not my best day!
dpmUK - Lead dog - 17/Apr/10 with Jen

Flicka - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Colin (Victim of Mathematics)

arctic_jen - 2nd - 17/Apr/10 with Dan

popebenedictus - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Adrian Scott

adrianscott - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Ben Harding

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/10

Duck Egg - Lead β - 10/Apr/10 with Jon Stewart

co1ps - Solo - 04/Apr/10 with noodle the labradoodle

paul__in_sheffield - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Noodle

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10

stefie c - 2nd - 21/Mar/10 with John Powell

powellj69 - Lead - 21/Mar/10

nickcanute - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

staceyjg - 2nd dog - 17/Oct/09 with Ewan Buckingham, Barra

Neil Pacey - Lead RP - 11/Oct/09 with Tanya Savage

Thin and strenuous, made a grade harder by Grindleford chip butty
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 11/Oct/09 with Neil Pacey

Nice route, cool moves, maybe tough for 5a but bomber gear for crux
Sam1991 - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Malc and Mary-Eve

Philsy - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Nick P

Richard Hill - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Max

Alkis - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Chris Aslin

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09 with alkis

Alkis - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Chris Aslin

Barry D - Lead - 16/Aug/09 with Trish

doogstrue - TR - 02/Aug/09 with phil & andy

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Jul/09

Rampikino - Lead - 31/May/09 with Cat and Shirley

quite hard for 5a.
Milne - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Steve poole

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/09

davidwright - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/09

Jon Dittman - Solo - 22/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09

Merlin - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Sally Jones

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead dog - 06/Apr/09 with Tom Crane

tommytwotone - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Nigel

markytaylor - 2nd - 27/Mar/09 with andy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/09

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Rob Munday

Bomber wires, micro-wires useful at the start.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/09 with AJ

Hidden - Solo - 13/Mar/09

cem - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/09 with Pete Horn

Hidden - Lead dog - 2009

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/08

Hidden - TR - 19/Oct/08

donkster - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08

Hidden - Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/08

nice short climb
markbenton - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with ggawthrope

Kirill - 2nd β - 22/Jun/08 with Rob Truckle

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 14/Jun/08

Oceanic - 11/Jun/08

third up after Jon and Adam.
practicalcat - TR - 08/Jun/08 with Adam Carless

feels like a Millstone route, or even a short limestone pitch - fingery laybacking and a creaky spike.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Jon_nz

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/08

Pilch - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Graham

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 26/Apr/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hannah Moulton - 2nd - 2008 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2008

alek - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Petr Klus

Laurence Everitt - Lead rpt - 03/Nov/07 with Tammy Hughes

zard - 2nd - 03/Nov/07 with Alek Kumar

Katie Marshall - Lead - Nov/07

SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Jon_nz

J1PEF - Lead - Oct/07

russonly - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/07 with Simon

jdgaventa - Lead - 27/Aug/07

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Claire

PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Pat Holborn

malc - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/07 with Paul S

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Dave Moir

cia05js - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/07

dmoir - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/07 with Ben Harper

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/07

Tobias at Home - Solo rpt - 28/Jan/07

steve taylor - 2007

Pete Horn - 2007 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/06

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Joe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Little Old Lady

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/06

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/05 with Bethan

JohnHutch - Lead - 08/Nov/04 with L

was tricky good sling over flake
Alex Mason - Solo - 26/Sep/04 with kieth poskitt

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/04

Whealiebob - Lead - 06/Jun/04 with Ste and Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Sam and will - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with Anthony Bennett

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/03

Toreador - TR O/S - 03/Aug/03 with Carmen

SteveM - Lead - 13/Apr/03 with Rich K

angleseykayaker - 2nd - 10/Apr/03 with Paul Griffiths

tradguy - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/03 with Phil Loasby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Monk - Lead O/S - 2003

Phil West - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/02 with Chris Tan

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/02

philboy - 2nd - 23/Aug/02 with matt g

cem - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/02 with American Joe, Liam Mark

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jun/02

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/02

Nick Smith - UKC - Solo rpt - Sep/00

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 01/May/00 with Vicky Munn

John Marsland - Lead - 09/Apr/00 with Duncan Bourne

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2000 with Clare

rlrs - Lead - 2000

martroberts - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/99

Hidden - Solo - 03/Jul/99

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Jul/99

richard31 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/99 with Andy Perry

DafSWMC - Solo - Aug/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/98

Ropeboy - Solo - 03/May/98

RobSimmo - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/98 with Jon Berry

kato'sdad - Lead - 18/Feb/98 with Rob Simpson

Martyn - Lead O/S - 1998 with Shaun Hodgkins

brady - 2nd - 06/Jul/97 with John Cameron

chris sm - Solo O/S - Jul/97 with Dom Goodridge

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Apr/97

craig h - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/97 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - Solo - 13/Aug/96

stevieb - 2nd - 09/Jun/96 with Anita, Chris, Kelvyn James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/96

Rog Wilko - Lead - Nov/95 with Debbie Wilkinson

Yourlead - Lead - 12/Jun/95 with Stephan Liudbloun

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/95

Roget - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/92

nai - 2nd - 1992 with Roger Devy

Rich Kirby - Solo - 23/Jun/91 with Andy Mackay

Raggar - Lead - 06/May/90 with Steve B

Ena - Lead - 1990 with Dick

Hidden - Solo - 28/Sep/89

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/89

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 28/May/88

Iain Thow - Solo - 14/Sep/87

Hidden - Solo - 29/May/86

Hidden - Solo - 27/Apr/86

Hidden - 1986

sadams - Solo - 06/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC

babymoac - Lead - 24/Aug/85 with Bob Hunter & Pravin

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 19/Jul/85

Hidden - 2nd - 1985

malc - Solo - 03/Jun/84

mark-abz - TR - 19/Aug/83

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/81

Hidden - Solo - 30/Mar/80

Hidden - Solo - 30/Mar/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1979

Mark Kemball - Solo - 26/Nov/78

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/78 with Patrick Meeds

Hidden - Solo - 29/Oct/77

Hammy - Lead - 26/Aug/77 with Jonathon Stacey

RichardMc - Solo - 07/Nov/76

Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 16/May/76 with Bill Wintrip

Hidden - Solo - 24/Aug/75

greenbuoy - Solo - 15/Jan/72

Andy Say - Solo - 1971

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, zard, Steve Waters, Mynydd, sstanier, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 158
hard HVS0 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS0 of 56
hard VS4 of 56
VS41 of 56
easy VS11 of 56
hard HS0 of 56
HS0 of 56
easy HS0 of 56
hard 5b0 of 54
5b0 of 54
easy 5b0 of 54
hard 5a2 of 54
5a41 of 54
easy 5a8 of 54
hard 4c3 of 54
4c0 of 54
easy 4c0 of 54
3 Stars2 of 48
2 Stars12 of 48
1 Star31 of 48
0 Stars3 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

Soloed64 of 311 (20.6%)
Lead144 of 311 (46.3%)
Followed80 of 311 (25.7%)
Toproped11 of 311 (3.5%)
Bouldered1 of 311 (0.3%)
Unknown11 of 311 (3.5%)

'Climbed'134 of 311 (43.1%)
clean O/S138 of 311 (44.4%)
clean β4 of 311 (1.3%)
clean rpt21 of 311 (6.8%)
clean RP4 of 311 (1.3%)
dogged10 of 311 (3.2%)