Rockfax Description
A fingery slab leads, with a stretch, to a short finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Finney 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.

Hidden 03/Oct Lead O/S
samdickensuk 16/Aug Solo O/S
Paul1 18/Jul Lead

Used side runners which interrupted the flow of the climb but felt right for the grade. Very nice moves.

with steve
Simoisfab 18/Jul 2nd RP

Not my lead and I don't think it could have been. Very Balancy

BnB 05/Jun -
jonhowson 04/Jun Lead O/S

Only the start move is 5b? Used side runners, too hot for soloing and it looked too good to miss out on.

with Will, Chris
eburki1 17/May Solo O/S
Manc88 17/May Solo β

Lower face solo only - Apple Jack Cracks finish.

jmills94 17/May Sent O/S

cracks finish above. part solo part boulder

alp79 16/May 2nd rpt
with Sam Fletcher
Hidden 16/May Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/May Solo O/S
Hidden 04/May TR O/S
BrynHeason 04/May 2nd
with Matt Clarke, Aether Clarke, Dylan Heason, Matt Heason
Matt Harmon 10/Mar Sent O/S

with a pad. felt a lot easier then 5b and i don't usually like slabs!

amccann 10/Mar Solo O/S
shaunhumphreys 10/Mar Sent x

Puntered it quite abit

with Sam McCarthy, Matt Harmon, Alex M
Sam McCarthy 10/Mar Sent O/S
SDM 07/Feb Sent O/S
with Michael
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S
pete1993 19/Aug/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mrginna 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
stevelismore 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

You need good edges on your rockshoes for this one!

with John PCC
eduardo 03/May/14 Solo rpt

Soloed centre of the slab to its top then did the right crack to top out

Lazytraveller 13/Apr/14 Solo O/S
hipyhop 13/Apr/14 Lead β

but with siderunner

with Cherelle
riddle 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd
deacondeacon 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S


dr_botnik 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with deacon
sgl0jd 17/Nov/13 -

Easier than the VS to the right surely? Only 5a

jamie ward 04/Sep/13 TR
with Steve Smith
alp79 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Rosa, Jonny Ashton
ashtond6 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

E1 surely?? 5b moves risking ankle snapping

James Oakes 14/Jul/13 Solo O/S
DeanD 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 TR O/S
jimbonfire 26/May/13 -
Col Kingshott 26/May/13 2nd
Reds 06/May/13 TR RP
althesin 06/May/13 TR RP
schristophersmith 06/May/13 TR β
ajc 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Mel, Morri
RFWilkie 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with James, Mark
brownie mike 28/Apr/13 Lead
Thinker01 28/Apr/13 TR O/S
Jimbo C 20/Apr/13 Solo O/S

only 5a for tall people maybe. Nice moves. Scary.

Matt JM Stevens 16/Apr/13 Solo
peteramsden 16/Apr/13 Solo O/S
cem 13/Apr/13 Solo rpt
Jay C 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
R2B 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Great high ball to the break, then a lovely finish too.

with Charlotte
Sam Cooke 06/Apr/13 2nd
with Jay Conlon
UnkArl 21/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
AndyPagett 09/Sep/12 TR dnf
Dan Geh 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
andybirtwistle 03/Sep/12 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
climbingrev 03/Sep/12 TR rpt

Gear, what gear! Looked scary, so we both top-roped. Tim did it clean. I fell off and did on second attempt.

Jake Young 02/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 TR
SGD 22/Jul/12 Lead

This is a bit bold and polished.... good but stiff moves lead to the break. A cluster of ok?(ish) gear in a thin crack at the big break before another committing move off the ledge. This is pretty full on for HVS, you don't get much change out of some E1's compared to this.

Hidden 29/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex 74 25/May/12 TR
JEP 22/May/12 Lead
al123 12/May/12 Solo
Oceanic 11/May/12 -
Nick Rundall 06/May/12 -
leon 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Rundall, Steven Davidson
Jonathan Hall 08/Apr/12 Solo
disturbed_one51 08/Apr/12 Solo
oddessy_uk 11/Mar/12 Solo β
john lynch 26/Feb/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 04/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Solo O/S
ash longreach ??/2012 Solo


al123 26/Nov/11 Solo O/S


lozowen 18/Nov/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
oddessy_uk 01/Oct/11 TR O/S
hailtryfan ?/Oct/11 2nd O/S
charley 24/Sep/11 TR O/S

On the shunt. Think I may have climbed this too strict by ignoring the better holds to the right of the slab?

Mark Salter 09/Sep/11 TR
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
teamrob 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Dan
wahniel 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I did this with runner in the crack to the left. Not sure if that's allowed. Would have been too dangerous for my liking otherwise.

with Robin Hoffmann
Barry D 01/Jun/11 2nd

Couldn't do the start,traversed in from Cider

with Paul J, Jon P
JEP 01/Jun/11 Lead
AlexRenshaw 01/May/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
geddicakes 30/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with James Restorick
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Solo
Roberttaylor 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Enjoyable hands free climbing at the base.

with Rose Tupling and Sebastian Schwabl
allyrocke 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with EUMC
Harry Holmes 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with Clement
Hidden 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
climbing_wiggy 17/Apr/11 TR O/S
with Leon
Lenny 17/Apr/11 TR O/S
with Paul
pete1993 02/Apr/11 TR
metal arms 27/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Brannock 26/Mar/11 Solo O/S

Nice route, but then again I like slabs....

nai 25/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Andrew Barker 24/Mar/11 Solo rpt
catblack 24/Mar/11 Solo O/S

A little bit scary, the hardest thing I've soloed. Took me a while to commit to the moves off the ledge not using the right hand crack and not being able to reach the left hand flake/crack. Bottom slab has some really nice moves on it.

Dave Mason 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
john lynch 06/Mar/11 Solo O/S
with Neil Elmore, Luke Dickens, Lewis Andrew
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Solo
Joe Costello ?/Mar/11 Solo O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
Ram MkiV 13/Nov/10 Solo O/S
with i'ma solo solo
payeo20 29/Aug/10 Solo

tad scary but once committed no backing down. thoroughly enjoyable. only gear at easier bit at the top so soloed it.

simeclimb68 29/Aug/10 Solo rpt
simeclimb68 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Ander
Ander 22/Aug/10 2nd
ajc 08/Aug/10 TR O/S
Jez 30/Jun/10 Solo O/S
zappa 31/May/10 Solo O/S
John Pickles 25/May/10 Solo O/S
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 23/May/10 Solo O/S
Danny Crump 23/May/10 TR O/S
LiL Saz 23/May/10 TR
petegruf 22/May/10 2nd O/S
with brad j
jon bradley 16/May/10 2nd rpt

22 years after I first led it

with Huw Howells
jshields 12/May/10 Lead

Soloed on site 1995. Ed and Paul seconded.

gw66 25/Apr/10 Lead β

Side runner in crack on left, otherwise tough moves on no gear!

Hidden 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
co1ps 04/Apr/10 Solo
with noodle the labradoodle
paul__in_sheffield 04/Apr/10 Solo O/S
with Noodle
Hidden 28/Mar/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Mar/10 2nd
powellj69 21/Mar/10 Solo
Jamesb55 31/Jan/10 Solo
with John Slarke
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Solo O/S
maxkellock 20/Sep/09 TR O/S

nice route balance on finger tip holds

bobbarnes00 12/Sep/09 TR
with Richard Roberts
Stig 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
Rampikino 31/May/09 Lead
with Cat and Shirley
GPN 24/May/09 Solo O/S
Jon Dittman 22/Apr/09 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 21/Apr/09 2nd
with Jon Prager
mtempest 21/Apr/09 Lead
with Jon
smokeyj 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Spoons
markytaylor 27/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with andy
Hidden 27/Mar/09 2nd O/S
jcurley 18/Mar/09 2nd O/S
dan gibson 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with AJ
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Solo O/S
nia ??/2009 Lead
with Dale lee
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden 27/Sep/08 2nd
Chris Sansum 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Felt like E1 to me, and I didn't have to lead the thing!

with Duncan Bourne
skittles 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Hext
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 -
donkster 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Brown 23/Jun/08 Solo O/S
with Bridget
Jesse Dufton 14/Jun/08 Lead
Oceanic 11/Jun/08 -
practicalcat 08/Jun/08 TR dog

Third up after Jon and Adam. Had help to do the first mantle off the ground.

adam carless 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

dunno if it was just the conditions, but this felt scary than I'd expect for HVS. You've done the crux, a few 5b moves, and are at least 20ft up before the first (and pretty much only) gear arrives in a snappy looking flake.

with Jon_nz
Pilch 24/May/08 Lead O/S

Utilised a side runners high in crack on left and in thin crack on right above the break. Good finishing moves.

with Graham
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Box
angleseykayaker 20/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Emma Griffiths
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Tony Little 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Claire
Rob Davies ?/Aug/07 Lead

with side-runners

with Angus McLean, Phil Ashton
dannyboy83 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
cia05js 05/Apr/07 Lead O/S
dmoir 05/Apr/07 Solo O/S
steve taylor ??/2007 -
Mattyk 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with John Marsham
Ron 05/Sep/06 2nd
with Pete & Harry
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Mark Riley 29/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Ropeboy 18/Sep/05 Solo
Chris Davids 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Jon
SteveM 09/Jan/05 2nd
with Tobs
Andrew Barker ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/04 TR rpt
Whealiebob 06/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Stee
bigphil 06/Jun/04 Solo O/S
with Nick
BigToe 06/Jun/04 2nd
Budge 06/May/04 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Solo
Phil West 19/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with John Dittman & Dave Atherton
angleseykayaker 07/Apr/03 Lead
with Paul Griffiths
tradguy 30/Mar/03 2nd O/S
with Phil Loasby
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
DerwentDiluted 01/Sep/02 Lead
with Chris Pearson
julian allen 27/Aug/02 TR
cem 23/Jun/02 Solo rpt
nickdonohue ?/May/02 Lead

I put a side runner in adjacent route as poor pro

with Joe Brown
Hidden 20/Apr/02 Solo O/S
JuneBob ??/2002 TR

I just fancied top-roping it goddammit!

Urgles ??/2002 Lead O/S
with ???????????????
cem 01/Jul/01 2nd
with Miles Butteriss
chrishedgehog 18/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Rich Malcolm 21/May/00 Lead O/S
with Matt Brennan
John Southworth 01/May/00 Solo
John Marsland 09/Apr/00 Solo
antroy 01/Apr/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Dave Bond ??/2000 Solo
Boy ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Mel
Hidden 22/Aug/99 TR
Hidden 25/Jul/99 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/99 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/99 2nd
Hidden ??/1999 Solo β
DafSWMC ?/Aug/98 TR O/S
rocktigger ??/1998 Lead O/S
with lee + shelby
Hidden 05/Oct/97 Solo
chris sm ?/Jul/97 Solo O/S
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden 13/Apr/97 TR
craig h 02/Feb/97 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
crater 10/Nov/96 TR


Hidden 09/Jun/96 TR
Hidden 29/Apr/96 2nd
tlr 12/Apr/96 Solo
with Andy W
Chris the Tall ??/1995 TR
with Dave Gurney
Laramadness 24/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Roget 27/Jun/92 Solo O/S
malc 25/May/92 2nd
nai ??/1992 2nd
with Roger Devy
Rich Kirby 23/Jun/91 Solo
with Andy Mackay
Iain Thow 28/May/91 TR

Second 10/10/87

Stoney Boy 30/Mar/91 Solo O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Solo
Raggar 06/May/90 2nd
with Steve B
steve prior ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with Rob W
Andy Say 25/Nov/89 Solo
Hidden 28/Sep/89 Solo
Rob Davies ??/1989 Lead
with Mick Moss
babymoac 29/May/88 2nd
with MTW
goi.ashmore 28/May/88 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/May/86 Solo
sadams 06/Oct/85 Solo
with Aylesbury CC
mark-abz 31/Aug/83 TR
Mark Kemball 08/Jan/83 Solo
Hidden 11/Jul/81 Solo
Hidden 30/Mar/80 Solo
Hidden 29/Oct/77 Solo
Hidden 29/Oct/77 Solo O/S
Hammy 26/Aug/77 Lead
with Jonathon Stacey
mikej 24/Oct/76 Solo
RichardMc 20/Jun/76 Solo
mikej 26/Oct/69 Lead
with E
mikej 26/Jan/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
mikej 08/Dec/68 Solo
with Richard Gravenstede
mikej 24/Nov/68 Solo
with E
mikej 20/Sep/67 Solo
with Keith Mcdowel, John Lee
mikej 07/May/67 Solo
with Geoff Williams
mikej 27/Mar/67 Solo
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 18/Feb/67 Solo
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 26/Dec/66 Lead
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 08/May/66 Lead
with Chris Phipps-Jones, Keith Gregson
mikej 05/Mar/66 Solo
with Ted Markham
mikej 30/Jan/66 Solo

This route did not appear in a guide until 1970. I bouldered it out after having noticed the possibility from numerous ascents of Cider and AJC. We graded it VS and it was known as Scrumpy by my associates.

with Ted Markham
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DaNo123, PanzerHanzler
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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Votes cast 55
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set