Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Cydrax* HVS 5b

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[End of year meet, Gardoms, 3 kb]8m. A fingery slab leads to a short finishing crack. © ROCKFAX
FA. Eric Finney 1957

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500.

Photo: End of year meet, Gardoms © ben_lea
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 226 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Lazytraveller - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/14

but with siderunner
hipyhop - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with Cherelle

riddle - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/14

Worthwhile
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with deacon

Easier than the VS to the right surely? Only 5a
sgl0jd - 17/Nov/13

jamie ward - TR - 04/Sep/13 with Steve Smith

alp79 - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Rosa, Jonny Ashton

E1 surely?? 5b moves risking ankle snapping
ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

James Oakes - Solo O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Keith Poskitt, Trish Darling

DeanD - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Edward dalton

Hidden - TR O/S - 02/Jun/13

jimbonfire - 26/May/13

Col Kingshott - 2nd - 26/May/13

Reds - TR RP - 06/May/13 with Althesin, schristophersmith

althesin - TR RP - 06/May/13 with Reds, schristophersmith

schristophersmith - TR β - 06/May/13 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

ajc - Lead rpt - 05/May/13 with Mel, Morri

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with James, Mark

brownie mike - Lead - 28/Apr/13

Thinker01 - TR O/S - 28/Apr/13 with RFWilkie

only 5a for tall people maybe. Nice moves. Scary.
Jimbo C - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/13

Matt JM Stevens - Solo - 16/Apr/13

peteramsden - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/13

cem - Solo rpt - 13/Apr/13

Jay C - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Sam Cooke

Great high ball to the break, then a lovely finish too.
R2B - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Charlotte

Sam Cooke - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with Jay Conlon

UnkArl - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

AndyPagett - TR dnf - 09/Sep/12 with Maia

Dan Geh - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Adam Jordan

andybirtwistle - Lead - 03/Sep/12 with Keith Lonsdale

Gear, what gear! Looked scary, so we both top-roped. Tim did it clean. I fell off and did on second attempt.
climbingrev - TR rpt - 03/Sep/12 with Tim Angell

Jake Young - Solo O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - TR - 22/Jul/12

This is a bit bold and polished.... good but stiff moves lead to the break. A cluster of ok?(ish) gear in a thin crack at the big break before another committing move off the ledge. This is pretty full on for HVS, you don't get much change out of some E1's compared to this.
SGD - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Vicky Holmes, Rob Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/12

alex thackway - TR - 25/May/12

JEP - Lead - 22/May/12

al123 - Solo - 12/May/12

Oceanic - 11/May/12

Nick Rundall - 06/May/12 with Leon Skeldon

leon - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Nick Rundall, Steven Davidson

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 08/Apr/12

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 08/Apr/12

oddessy_uk - Solo β - 11/Mar/12

john lynch - Solo rpt - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 07/Jan/12

jim
ash longreach - Solo - 2012

nice
al123 - Solo O/S - 26/Nov/11

lozowen - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Oct/11

oddessy_uk - TR O/S - 01/Oct/11

hailtryfan - 2nd O/S - Oct/11 with AJ Bowley

On the shunt. Think I may have climbed this too strict by ignoring the better holds to the right of the slab?
charley - TR O/S - 24/Sep/11

Mark Salter - TR - 09/Sep/11 with Gareth Lewis

teamrob - 2nd - 02/Jul/11 with Dan

I did this with runner in the crack to the left. Not sure if that's allowed. Would have been too dangerous for my liking otherwise.
wahniel - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Robin Hoffmann

Couldn't do the start,traversed in from Cider
Barry D - 2nd - 01/Jun/11 with Paul J, Jon P

JEP - Lead - 01/Jun/11

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 01/May/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

geddicakes - Solo O/S - 30/Apr/11 with James Restorick

Hidden - Solo - 25/Apr/11

Enjoyable hands free climbing at the base.
Roberttaylor - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Rose Tupling and Sebastian Schwabl

allyrocke - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/11 with EUMC

naffan - Solo O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Clement

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11

climbing_wiggy - TR O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Leon

Lenny - TR O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Paul

pete1993 - TR - 02/Apr/11

metal arms - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/11

Nice route, but then again I like slabs....
Brannock - Solo O/S - 26/Mar/11

nai - Solo rpt - 25/Mar/11

Andrew Barker - Solo rpt - 24/Mar/11 with Cat Black

A little bit scary, the hardest thing I've soloed. Took me a while to commit to the moves off the ledge not using the right hand crack and not being able to reach the left hand flake/crack. Bottom slab has some really nice moves on it.
catblack - Solo O/S - 24/Mar/11 with Andy Barker

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Trev Tatler

john lynch - Solo O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Neil Elmore, Luke Dickens, Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Solo - 05/Mar/11

Joe Costello - Solo O/S - Mar/11

mwatson - 2011

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 13/Nov/10 with i'ma solo solo

tad scary but once committed no backing down. thoroughly enjoyable. only gear at easier bit at the top so soloed it.
payeo20 - Solo - 29/Aug/10

simeclimb68 - Solo rpt - 29/Aug/10

simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/10 with Ander

Ander - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with simeclimb68

ajc - TR O/S - 08/Aug/10

Jez - Solo O/S - 30/Jun/10

zappa - Solo O/S - 31/May/10

John Pickles - Solo O/S - 25/May/10 with Kieran Hodgson

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/May/10

Danny Crump - TR O/S - 23/May/10 with Sarah Pentelow

LiL Saz - TR - 23/May/10 with Danny Crump

petegruf - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with brad j

22 years after I first led it
jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 16/May/10 with Huw Howells

Soloed on site 1995. Ed and Paul seconded.
jshields - Lead - 12/May/10 with Paul Weller, Ed James

Side runner in crack on left, otherwise tough moves on no gear!
gw66 - Lead β - 25/Apr/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/10

co1ps - Solo - 04/Apr/10 with noodle the labradoodle

paul__in_sheffield - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Noodle

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/10

powellj69 - Solo - 21/Mar/10

Jamesb55 - Solo - 31/Jan/10 with John Slarke

nickcanute - 2010

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Oct/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Sep/09

Jim Walton - Solo O/S - 26/Sep/09

nice route balance on finger tip holds
maxkellock - TR O/S - 20/Sep/09

bobbarnes00 - TR - 12/Sep/09 with Richard Roberts

Stig - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Jonathan Teale

Rampikino - Lead - 31/May/09 with Cat and Shirley

GPN - Solo O/S - 24/May/09

Jon Dittman - 2nd - 22/Apr/09

Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 21/Apr/09 with Jon Prager

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/09

smokeyj - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Spoons

markytaylor - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/09 with andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/09

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/09 with Mike Buddle

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/09 with AJ

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/09

nia - Lead - 2009 with Dale lee

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/08

Felt like E1 to me, and I didn't have to lead the thing!
Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Duncan Bourne

skittles - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Andy Hext

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/08

Hidden - Jul/08

donkster - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08

Brown - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/08 with Bridget

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 14/Jun/08 with Mike Kean

Oceanic - 11/Jun/08

Third up after Jon and Adam. Had help to do the first mantle off the ground.
practicalcat - TR dog - 08/Jun/08 with Adam Carless

dunno if it was just the conditions, but this felt scary than I'd expect for HVS. You've done the crux, a few 5b moves, and are at least 20ft up before the first (and pretty much only) gear arrives in a snappy looking flake.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Jon_nz

Utilised a side runners high in crack on left and in thin crack on right above the break. Good finishing moves.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Graham

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Jon Box

angleseykayaker - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08 with Emma Griffiths

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Claire

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Dave Moir

cia05js - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/07

dmoir - Solo O/S - 05/Apr/07

steve taylor - 2007

Mattyk - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06 with John Marsham

Ron - 2nd - 05/Sep/06 with Pete & Harry

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/06

Mark Riley - Solo O/S - 29/Apr/06 with Tom Greenall

Ropeboy - Solo - 18/Sep/05

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/05 with Jon

SteveM - 2nd - 09/Jan/05 with Tobs

Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - TR rpt - 19/Sep/04

Whealiebob - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04 with Stee

bigphil - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/04 with Nick

BigToe - 2nd - 06/Jun/04 with Whealiebob

Budge - Lead O/S - 06/May/04 with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie

Hidden - Solo - 25/Apr/04

Phil West - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/03 with John Dittman & Dave Atherton

angleseykayaker - Lead - 07/Apr/03 with Paul Griffiths

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/03 with Phil Loasby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 01/Sep/02 with Chris Pearson

julian allen - TR - 27/Aug/02

cem - Solo rpt - 23/Jun/02

I put a side runner in adjacent route as poor pro
nickdonohue - Lead - May/02 with Joe Brown

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/02

I just fancied top-roping it goddammit!
JuneBob - TR - 2002

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2002 with ???????????????

cem - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/01 with Miles Butteriss

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/00 with Joe Thompson

Rich Malcolm - Lead O/S - 21/May/00 with Matt Brennan

John Southworth - Solo - 01/May/00

John Marsland - Solo - 09/Apr/00

antroy - Lead - 01/Apr/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Dave Bond - Solo - 2000

Boy - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Mel

Hidden - TR - 22/Aug/99

Hidden - Solo - 03/Jul/99

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Jul/99

Hidden - Solo β - 1999

DafSWMC - TR O/S - Aug/98

rocktigger - Lead O/S - 1998 with lee + shelby

chris sm - Solo O/S - Jul/97 with Dom Goodridge

Hidden - TR - 13/Apr/97

craig h - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/97 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - TR - 09/Jun/96

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/96

tlr - Solo - 12/Apr/96 with Andy W

Chris the Tall - TR - 1995 with Dave Gurney

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/93

Roget - Solo O/S - 27/Jun/92

malc - 2nd - 25/May/92

nai - 2nd - 1992 with Roger Devy

Rich Kirby - Solo - 23/Jun/91 with Andy Mackay

Second 10/10/87
Iain Thow - TR - 28/May/91

NickJH - Solo - Jul/90

Raggar - 2nd - 06/May/90 with Steve B

Andy Say - Solo - 25/Nov/89

Hidden - Solo - 28/Sep/89

babymoac - 2nd - 29/May/88 with MTW

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 28/May/88

Hidden - Solo - 29/May/86

sadams - Solo - 06/Oct/85 with Aylesbury CC

mark-abz - TR - 31/Aug/83

Mark Kemball - Solo - 08/Jan/83

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/81

Hidden - Solo - 30/Mar/80

Hidden - Solo - 29/Oct/77

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Oct/77

Hammy - Lead - 26/Aug/77 with Jonathon Stacey

mikej - Solo - 24/Oct/76

RichardMc - Solo - 20/Jun/76

mikej - Lead - 26/Oct/69 with E

mikej - Solo - 26/Jan/69 with Wil Hurford

mikej - Solo - 24/Nov/68 with E

mikej - Solo - 20/Sep/67 with Keith Mcdowel, John Lee

mikej - Solo - 07/May/67 with Geoff Williams

mikej - Solo - 18/Feb/67 with Nigel Sumner

mikej - Lead - 26/Dec/66 with Nigel Sumner

mikej - Lead - 08/May/66 with Chris Phipps-Jones, Keith Gegson

This route did not appear in a guide until 1970. I bouldered it out after having noticed the possibility from numerous ascents of Cider and AJC. We graded it VS and it was known as Scrumpy by my associates.
mikej - Solo - 30/Jan/66 with Ted Markham

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DaNo123, PanzerHanzler

Voting
Total votes cast 128
hard E10 of 45
E10 of 45
easy E18 of 45
hard HVS6 of 45
HVS26 of 45
easy HVS4 of 45
hard VS1 of 45
VS0 of 45
easy VS0 of 45
hard 5c0 of 42
5c0 of 42
easy 5c0 of 42
hard 5b4 of 42
5b29 of 42
easy 5b4 of 42
hard 5a5 of 42
5a0 of 42
easy 5a0 of 42
3 Stars0 of 41
2 Stars12 of 41
1 Star27 of 41
0 Stars1 of 41
Bag of .....1 of 41
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed86 of 226 (38.1%)
Lead63 of 226 (27.9%)
Followed33 of 226 (14.6%)
Toproped32 of 226 (14.2%)
Unknown12 of 226 (5.3%)

'Climbed'104 of 226 (46.0%)
clean O/S100 of 226 (44.2%)
clean β6 of 226 (2.7%)
clean rpt11 of 226 (4.9%)
clean RP2 of 226 (0.9%)
dogged1 of 226 (0.4%)
dnf2 of 226 (0.9%)