Rockfax Description
A bit of an expedition, best saved for quiet days. Climb the chimney to a cave and gain the ledge on the right. Follow this to its end then make tricky moves to access the slab further right again. Cross this to its right-hand edge then finish easily. © Rockfax

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

PEccleston 08/Nov Lead

Did a slight variation on the finish by not traversing all the way to the right. Always feels good to climb horizontally though.

GregBristol 23/Sep 2nd
with Mark Benton
Hidden 01/Aug Lead G/U
Tony7553 18/Jun Lead O/S
tedburt 30/May Solo O/S
heywoodj 19/May Solo O/S

did the direct start to the ledge then continued along traverse

P Rogers 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Sue
Robin Nichols 12/Mar Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Mar Lead
JohnBotham 10/Mar 2nd
the power 06/Mar Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
migs493 09/Nov/14 Solo O/S
benlatham07 01/Nov/14 Solo O/S
tomaca12 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
RichardLeggett 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

long climb for a warm up!

MPSBunny 27/Aug/14 2nd
with Achatzs
Nigel Bond 09/Aug/14 Solo
si_pro_83 27/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Tubs
Hidden 23/Jul/14 Lead
Gary K Duke 05/Jul/14 2nd
with Nick Low
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
andyclimber 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
joe hallam 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with will lord, chelsey robinson
FlavioL1989 23/May/14 Lead O/S
with NLMC
Melanie Parkin 23/May/14 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Teappleby 17/May/14 Solo
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
peterhubbard 27/Apr/14 Lead
with Alastair
charley 20/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 17/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead rpt
bantamdave 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Terri, Neil
Don't like e3s 13/Apr/14 2nd
with Terri
MazElden ?/Apr/14 Lead
with Graeme
paul79 15/Mar/14 Lead
reece.robinson 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Gavdee1 08/Mar/14 2nd
david harvey ?/Mar/14 Lead dnf
with Ian
Retro Rowan 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Tim Harper 16/Feb/14 2nd
with NTU
Hidden 12/Jan/14 TR
Don't like e3s 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Terri
MikeDowsett ??/2014 Lead
with Dave Bankart, Kris Scheinkonig
DaveB61 10/Dec/13 2nd
simonscubadiver 10/Oct/13 Lead O/S

With Pete Kendrick as well. Glad of twin ropes. Fun climb.

Kendrick 10/Oct/13 2nd
with Si
jpksalmon 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lots of belly wiggling!

with Paul
PieMan 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Hilarious mini-stomach traverse...until you have to work out how to stand up again...and then work out how to get round the arete on to the slab. Good fun.

with Jim
mitch 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Hollins
spenser 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really nice route, although the tree in the way does make for a slightly awkward move.

Hidden 10/Jul/13 -
Benn A 08/Jul/13 Solo O/S
matt.stevenson ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
rohai545 10/Jun/13 2nd
with Ross Morton, Helen
ht543 10/Jun/13 2nd
with Ross Morton, Krish
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
Chalky Cat 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Dom
ajc 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mel
NickyC 27/Apr/13 2nd
with Alex Newman
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
rohai545 19/Feb/13 Lead
with Jonny Holmes, Chris Cope
Jonny M 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Eagertom ?/Dec/12 2nd

Enjoyed letting Dan take his first lead of the day, and some novel moves on the way out of the back corner, bridging with back and feet.

Hidden 30/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Nov/12 Solo
harold walmsley 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Steven Andrews 03/Nov/12 2nd

Great climb. Really nice and varied.

deacondeacon 09/Oct/12 Solo O/S
John Brayshaw 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Erica
erica 29/Sep/12 2nd
with John
RUDIN.J.D.H 25/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Lovely climb. Took a while to man up and do the crux move after the ledge. Found it Amusing that Tom also struggled on it after trash talking me from the ground.

with Tom Atherton
Charley17 19/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Pstryk 09/Sep/12 Lead
peterbeaumont 05/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Nick F Smith 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Kat4kgb 03/Sep/12 2nd
rohai545 10/Aug/12 Lead
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Krish
arandall 08/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Jake Young 06/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
LivinITlarge 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Chris Baggy
atom 21/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Roget 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
with robin
bwestwood 02/Jun/12 Solo
Hidden 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 -
Hidden 16/Mar/12 Solo rpt
Andy Moles 12/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with -
augustus trout 11/Mar/12 Lead
with Mark A
cathymiller 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
fraserbarrett 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Fraser hill-casey ?/Jan/12 -
Neil D 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Did the start from the VS that goes straight up.

Betha. 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Neil D
adam carless 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt

Finished up early on the traverse to avoid traffic

Hidden 09/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
adam carless 18/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/11 Solo
Mark Dennison 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dawn
Alex Munnery 15/Jun/11 2nd
with Jake Shreeve
ukx ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/11 Solo
papalazarou 01/May/11 Solo O/S

It helped to solo this given the large traverse. Nice diverting route.

samappears 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

hmm...major faffing, Half ropes would have worked well except the set up. I wasn't happy setting up where I topped out, so set up above the start. This meant my seconder having to traverse across the route as normal whilst moving her knot across to remain safe, then return along the traverse taking out gear, before topping out directly above the start. Long winded, and although a good route, I'd debate whether it was worth it! Possibly cheated by going slightly higher rather than stepping across a huge gap. Placed mainly cams.

with Gen Sayer
robal 09/Apr/11 -
Tamati ?/Apr/11 Solo
Steve Palmer 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Done in two pitches due to single rope, i lead to the ledge then G lead on.

gb83 16/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

P1 steve, P2 me. nice route

catblack 08/Feb/11 Solo

got scared as I climbed up the VS(porthole direct) before traversing, the corner crack felt pretty scary(and hard) without gear!

with Tom Lyons, Andy Barker
Amy Kilpin 12/Dec/10 2nd
mattshort 07/Nov/10 2nd
with Chris K
Becky C 07/Nov/10 2nd
with Gabbro, Notsi
CharlieC 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Tarryn
Tarryn 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
ckms 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Short
mattwyles1 02/Oct/10 Solo
with Ellie, Joe
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Solo O/S
jaxxman 29/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
littlerubberninja 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
cj1970 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
MPSBunny 03/Jun/10 2nd
bjlsmith 23/May/10 2nd
with Tino, Adam and ODL
Adam Mark Harvey 23/May/10 Lead
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead
stefie c 05/May/10 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 24/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead β
Matthew Edwards 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd
tjhare1 ??/2010 -
stephenhartley ??/2010 2nd
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Big Steve 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

somehow, I ended up on my stomach, grovelling under the roof

with Karen
igneouscarl 09/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Robert Jones
disturbed_one51 08/Oct/09 Solo
Jonathan Hall 08/Oct/09 Solo
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
marclloyd77 31/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
emlynroberts 10/Jul/09 Solo
with Toby Vye
cooper leek 08/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with water rat
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
whiting.jp 05/Apr/09 Lead
with jamesca
superturbo 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Pilch 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
EdShep 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Pilch
robal ??/2009 -
daveyji ??/2009 Lead
with Bridget O'Brien
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
DaveFidler ??/2009 Solo
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 14/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Alfredo 29/Oct/08 Solo
LittleJoe 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Skinner
John Eley ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 04/Jul/08 Lead
with Helen Odwell
climbingrev 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Had to set this up for three seconds - bit of a tricky one as such a long traverse. Pretty nice climb though. Is it possible without grovelling through the cave on your belly?

Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 04/May/08 Lead O/S
Ed Throp ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/08 2nd O/S
benman 24/Feb/08 Lead
with roger m
edd rab 16/Feb/08 TR O/S
popebenedictus 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Powder Puff Girl 16/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Ben H
hollylaura ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/07 Lead
PondLife 02/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Horrendous rope drag. Finshed on the left hand side of the slab.

john power 02/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 23/Sep/07 2nd
Somerset swede basher 15/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Sarah and Abi
kwickfit 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Brian
AJ007 03/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Pythonist 17/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/07 Solo
Twisty 15/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Multipitched on a single rope!

with Paul Dewey
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/07 Solo rpt
victim of mathematics 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Alan
tallsop 07/Feb/07 Lead
with andy
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
steve2006 ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Dec/06 Solo rpt
anyes varenne 13/Aug/06 -
with suzanne
Reaver2k 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S

First Severe! Wandered abit, don't think I got the right way in the end. Went up the bridging section on the first bit (harder I think? poor gear) Then crawled under the roof, and didnt move far enough right, still quite tricky. I claim the tick anyway.

pog100 12/Aug/06 2nd O/S
CJE 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Simon Clarkson
tobydunford 11/May/06 Solo O/S
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Nicos 20/Dec/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Dave Mason ?/Aug/05 Solo
Graeme Hammond 31/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Andy (stowmarket)
Hidden 05/Jun/05 TR O/S
mooseloose 28/May/05 Lead O/S
with Jaimie
masa-alpin 28/May/05 Lead O/S
with Adam W
AngelaC 01/May/05 Lead
LankyPaddy 01/Apr/05 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 25/Mar/05 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
cem 21/Nov/04 Lead rpt
with Natasha Geere, Graham Dolman
Brown 09/Oct/04 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Solo O/S
Tom Stoddart ?/Apr/04 AltLd
with Tom Slade
Reds 06/Mar/04 Solo
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Binder 30/Oct/03 TR
with JBM
Hidden 15/Sep/03 2nd
jonathan watt 26/Aug/03 Lead O/S
cem 10/Aug/03 2nd
with Richard T, Liam Mark, Dan Muldoon
Katie Weston ?/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/03 -
SteveM 21/Apr/03 Solo
peteetheridge ??/2003 -
with Tom Weston
Hidden 24/May/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/02 Lead
rocktigger ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Clare
sixties 19/Nov/00 Lead
with hrd
paul birch 07/Aug/00 -
Ian Archer 24/Aug/98 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/98 Solo
Hidden 15/Jul/98 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
BruceW ??/1995 Solo O/S
jmr ?/Oct/94 Lead
with Shane Adams
daprince ??/1994 -
Rampikino 15/Jun/93 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/92 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S
babymoac 27/Jan/91 Solo
Laramadness 28/Sep/90 Solo O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 02/Sep/90 Solo O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
climbhigher0 25/Jun/88 Solo O/S
steve prior ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Paul L
Iain Thow 20/May/87 Solo
stewart murray ??/1987 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden 05/May/83 Solo
mark-abz 19/Nov/81 TR
Hidden 02/Nov/80 Solo
tapley 26/Jan/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Steve Lenartowicz ??/1980 -
andy tetsill ?/Sep/79 Lead
with Martin
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/78 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/78 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Solo
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Solo
RichardMc 21/May/77 Solo
Nigel Bond 20/Apr/76 Solo
RichardMc 11/Apr/76 Solo
petemeads ??/1976 Solo
Andy Say ??/1969 Lead
mikej 10/Oct/65 Solo
with Howard Furguson
mikej 14/Feb/65 Lead
with Paul Richardson
mikej 28/Nov/64 Solo

Moderate? You must be joking.

with David Short
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam Mark Harvey, Hidden
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 21
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set