Derbyshire > Birchen Edge >
 
Midshipman / Plain Sailing*** E2 6a

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[moving up to the massive reach, 2 kb]12m. From a jug, climb leftwards to a thin crack then continue up the centre of the wall until under the capping overhang. A long reach from jams, and a rounded exit, overcome the final roof. Great climbing which is well protected throughout. © ROCKFAX
FA. Len Millsom 1963/Gary Gibson 1982

Ticklists: Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Photo: moving up to the massive reach © tim exley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 67 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Last move is a way!
Kevster - TR - 08/Mar/14

Lovely moves up till the top section which seemed virtually impossible without a massive reach, escaped off right.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 01/Sep/13 with Kev

Chuffed to have got the onsight, I really thought I would have needed a rest/taken a fall on the long reach.
David Kay - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Pete Dalzell

karol dubas - Lead RP - 15/Apr/13 with Phil Sadler

Good route but poor lead, came off pretty low, Pete climbed it with a couple of rests then I lead on Petes gear. Keen to go back and lead placing gear. Great route and tough for an E2. Feels very sporty.
deacondeacon - Lead RP - 09/Oct/12

Once climbed on top rope, practiced placing gear, want to lead it in the future
Alex Munnery - TR RP - 07/Oct/12

NathanW - TR RP - 07/Oct/12 with Alex Munnery

Hidden - TR dog - 03/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Sep/12

sazmaz - 2nd dog - 06/Sep/12 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Floris

Found the hardest move between the 2 and 3rd breaks, top fairly straight forward by comparison and not that reachy (easy toe jam and a good undercut) after a good rest on the jams. Previously failed on this (21/Mar/07) so good to finally do this, a cracking route :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Becky E, Pete aka Dad

damnably awkward top move gets me every time, forgot how to do it from the last time and dropped off about 4-5 times :( F2.5 and 3.5 in top breaks. F2 and F0 beneath.
JamieSparkes - Lead dog - 18/Jun/12 with Nick

One of the hardest things I've pulled off on lead. The middle crux was very close. The last reach is huge! took three attempts before I found a good undercut handjam.
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

mattshort - TR dog - 14/Apr/12

mattpw - TR dog - 14/Apr/12

Under cut top break.
Tom Seccombe - Lead dog - 13/Mar/12 with tim exley

DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Thomas Welch

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 28/May/11

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/10

fantastic climbing, that reach to finish is massive! at 6'3" I couldn't get jams in to span the gap. tried and tried and finally got an undercut in that worked. steep!
JamieSparkes - Lead dog - 12/Oct/10 with Claire

llamaglama - 2nd - 12/Oct/10 with Jam

Nice project now
Anthony Allsopp - TR O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Richard Wilkinson, Olly Ryan

Richard G Wilkinson - TR dnf - 10/Oct/10 with Oliver Ryan, Anthony Allsopp

wolverine - 04/Sep/10 with Matt Sparkes

Had to make a pumped retreat from first gear break with a little jump down to the deck. Couldn't make the reach off the jams up top, steady enough just undercutting instead (well, would have been if not so pumped!)
Ram MkiV - Lead - 29/Aug/10 with loads of people from hull

Couldn't reach the Gary Gibson way, (massive move) Finished the Len Millsom way.
Oliver Branagan - Lead dog - 29/Aug/10 with Tom M, Miles M

Way too hot, gave up after watching my hands literally slide on the break trying to place the second runner. Wasn't worth trying in that kind of heat tbh!
AlistairB - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10

Found the stretch at the top hard!
highlux - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Apr/10

mic_b - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/10

Pumpy, fell, lowered and led clean with gear in situ.
Chris M - Lead RP - 23/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Apr/10

DuncanR - Lead - 23/Apr/10 with Scott Mckenzie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Missed the monster reach at the top on first go
goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 03/Oct/09 with John Haslam

Hidden - TR RP - 20/Sep/09

Twisty - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Rayan Sammut

Hidden - TR dog - 25/Jul/09

Both moves are easier for the tall, the final move is probably close to impossible for the short. Early runner is hard-earned from a pumpy break. Other runners are fine with big breaks that take all medium to big sizes of cams.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 28/May/09 with Matt Snape

amstel - 2nd - 28/May/09 with Alan James - UKC

Creep_pea - TR dnf - 02/Jun/08 with Sam

Castleclimber - Lead dog - 24/May/08 with Julian Mowbray

sadams - Lead O/S - 14/May/08 with Catherine Adams

btc - 2nd dnf - 05/Apr/08 with keith daly

Hidden - TR O/S - 27/May/07

One to lead but a way off yet
Jon_Warner - TR dog - 26/May/07 with Jonny

Jack Symmons - Lead - Apr/07 with Dave P

Graeme Hammond - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/07 with Paul

derico - Lead RP - 11/Mar/07 with Jack

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/06

shark - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/05 with Ben Morris

Hidden - 2nd RP - 14/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/04

wolverine - Lead - 2004

CrashMat Rob - TR - 16/Jul/03 with Martin Smith, Martin Whelan, Nicky, Glynn

with 2 rests
CrashMat Rob - Lead dog - 29/Aug/01 with Steve, Sahra, Miles, Nicky

Bad hay fever day.
Jon Read - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Dave Edmunds

CrashMat Rob - TR - 26/Mar/00 with Brian, Nicky

marcoleptic - TR - 2000 with Dave

CrashMat Rob - TR - 27/Nov/99 with Sahra, Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky

CrashMat Rob - TR - 14/May/99 with Nicky

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/97

Hidden - 29/Apr/97

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/96

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
OliverRoss, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, rurp, fabricio, Hidden, Alex Munnery, ChrisBrooke, pr1984, Hidden, LittleJoe, climbingrick, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard E30 of 21
E31 of 21
easy E34 of 21
hard E28 of 21
E28 of 21
easy E20 of 21
hard E10 of 21
E10 of 21
easy E10 of 21
hard 6b0 of 20
6b0 of 20
easy 6b1 of 20
hard 6a2 of 20
6a13 of 20
easy 6a2 of 20
hard 5c2 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c0 of 20
3 Stars12 of 17
2 Stars5 of 17
1 Star0 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Lead38 of 67 (56.7%)
Followed8 of 67 (11.9%)
Toproped18 of 67 (26.9%)
Unknown3 of 67 (4.5%)

'Climbed'17 of 67 (25.4%)
clean O/S15 of 67 (22.4%)
clean β1 of 67 (1.5%)
clean rpt3 of 67 (4.5%)
clean RP9 of 67 (13.4%)
dogged15 of 67 (22.4%)
dnf7 of 67 (10.4%)