Rockfax Description
Often started via Sail Buttress, the direct start up the thin crack left of Sail Chimney improves the overall experience. Climb the crack, move left to the ledge then step up and right again to reach a good flake. Climb through the bulge by a bold high step to reach the upper slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Now back to HVS.

FA. Len Millsom 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Mike505 14/May Lead O/S
MatthewH 07/May 2nd O/S
with Alex Greeney
MikeyP 03/May Lead
Dan Vaj 01/May TR O/S
CRead 17/Apr Lead G/U

Fell at the crux first time, restarted and got it.

with Matt Arnold, Tom Drysdale, Matilda Scott
tom.drysdale70 17/Apr 2nd β
Hidden 10/Apr 2nd
Jake Young 10/Apr Lead O/S
with Nao
Hidden 20/Mar 2nd O/S
gaz3212 23/Feb Lead O/S
Robin Nichols 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S
with Jemma
Charlotte Nelson 25/Oct/15 Lead dnf
with Heather
FlavioL1989 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 16/Sep/15 2nd
Neal Jobling 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Took a while to commit to the balancy crux

with Tracy
ned_85 26/Aug/15 Lead
with Ryan Baird
Mark Grist 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
petemeads 20/Aug/15 Lead

Two long reaches, good gear. Nice route, surely harder than Orpheus Wall?

with Simon Perry
BareBears 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

First HVS 5b. Messed the start up...Tried going upto second break instead of traversing at the first break...But managed to do it correctly without a rest

with Guy
stvey 09/Aug/15 2nd β
with Ollie
Dogwood 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Eliminated the small block at the start. Thought standing up onto the first ledge was the crux. It wasn't. Didn't stop to place gear after the crux.

with stvey
cdpuk 07/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Calder 25/Jul/15 2nd
with Andy OB
andyob 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Calder
James rogers86 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

One tricky move on to the slab.

with Mark Duncan, Tom Frankenberg
Angus Taylor 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Not entirely sure i found the flake, getting steady after the crux rock over was pretty exciting. Fantastic route

Ian Saxton 11/Jun/15 2nd
with martin
martinbettridge06 10/Jun/15 Lead
dominic lee 06/Jun/15 Solo
tedburt 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Aaron Burdett
jimbonfire 26/May/15 -
john lynch 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with chris jackson
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd dog
jkarran 16/May/15 Lead

Harder to gain the ledge than leave it despite what the book said

with Aly
alex goodall 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 2nd O/S
Phil.Rudd 16/May/15 2nd O/S
The Reaper 07/May/15 Lead O/S
Capricorn One 30/Apr/15 Lead
with Joe PCC
JHiley 30/Apr/15 2nd
with PCC
dan_blair87 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dom94 08/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with shaun
shaunhumphreys 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dom
joemallia 07/Mar/15 2nd dog

Fidel's lead. 1 rest

Sink41 07/Mar/15 Lead β
Alasdair88 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
lizzie789 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Cant remember doing this, presume I did it clean

65m moderate millington 04/Mar/15 2nd dog
jayray ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
John Higgs 09/Dec/14 Solo dnf
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden 08/Dec/14 Lead O/S
BenL 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with SUMC
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
RichardLeggett 21/Sep/14 2nd
RichardLeggett 21/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Had to setup abseil to retrieve gear. Lost it on the step.

nick ferro 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
BDC 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan, Tom B
rurp 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Albachoss 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead
Marq 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
DaveB61 25/Jun/14 Lead
jshields 25/Jun/14 2nd


Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
admackie 14/Jun/14 -
with dan
riff156 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Liz Osbourne
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jun/14 -
Sam Husband 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom
tombushell 10/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd dog
Matt Smith 03/May/14 Lead O/S
cragsman9000 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd dog
Don't like e3s 13/Apr/14 2nd
with Terri
Retro Rowan 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with John Williams
adam clarke 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Direct start up thin crack/groove. Balancey climbing with long reach definitely a big help. Disappointed at lack of placements behind flake!

with Adam Lynch
Kevster 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
with steve read
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
JimboWizbo 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Great HVS

with Beth
phildawson 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S
matt.stevenson 09/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Natalyaaa 29/Sep/13 2nd

Seconded Bart. Hard move. Kinda had to dyno.

deejmonkey 22/Sep/13 Lead
with rob, len
youwillfindjimbo 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
terragait 22/Sep/13 2nd
with deej
RFWilkie 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kev
robaj 18/Aug/13 2nd dog
gazfellows 15/Aug/13 Lead

Wicked crux move! Defoe gets the taste buds goin !!!

with Nic
claregardiner 20/Jul/13 Lead
dr_botnik 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
the power 15/Jul/13 Lead β

Pulled rope and lead on robs gear hard

with rob
Hidden 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
kabutsu 06/Jul/13 Lead
rich_hw 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Fran
Hidden 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S
David Kay 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Laramadness 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tez
Tez29 21/May/13 2nd O/S
with G.L
eldre070 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Harder than it looks. Was tough getting off second break.

with Cem
cem 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with chris Lyness
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead
gobey 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

great route and reaching above the flake is easier for those with reach, brushing off the loose lichen wasnt fun and shows this doesnt get too much traffic compared to the other routes on Birchen.

with Paul
Knot-Paul 31/Mar/13 2nd dnf
with Bob
Hidden 16/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Sam Cooke 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Challoner
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
jorge1983 28/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Was already soaking wet and then started raining even more. The slab was too slippy!

Hidden 03/Oct/12 Lead dnf
deacondeacon 01/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Felt like middling hvs, thought this was a really nice route.

cameron_hall 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Aeron Buchanan
Wayne S 24/Aug/12 Lead β
ChrisBrooke 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Elved Roberts
Goose4 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Goose4 10/Aug/12 Lead
JamieForman 26/Jul/12 TR O/S
with Chris, Jim
Paul Hy 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Damien K
lamma_hippie 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Jon Lawton
joemallia 01/Jul/12 Lead dog

Went straight up from the first break with a long reach - might, more easily have moved left to mantelshelf the niche of Sail Buttress. Then, a careless foot placement and a fall from the crux. Completed, but didn't descend to start from scratch.

with Ignacio del Valle, Fidel Sciamanna
pippa_g 29/Jun/12 2nd O/S

nice move leaving the ledge, big reach felt very tenuous

JamieSparkes 18/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Nick
Nick1812P 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 11/Jun/12 Lead
shaun walby 11/Jun/12 2nd O/S

worth E1 for shorties

with Nick Whelan
shaky2 29/May/12 Lead
Josh Dickerson 16/May/12 Lead O/S
bennevis 16/May/12 2nd
with Jon
Alex.M-M. 06/May/12 Lead O/S
HAJ Francis 06/May/12 Lead O/S

very committing move getting over the bulge but awesome when you do it.

TheaSmea 06/May/12 2nd
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd
katherinesydney 07/Apr/12 2nd dog

Couldn't make the long reach first time

with tony walker, bobby gilbert
dan gibson 05/Apr/12 Solo O/S
stephenhartley 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Joe Garrett
Hidden 28/Mar/12 2nd
Tom Seccombe 13/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead dnf
shafiq lalloo 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
hoggy90 08/Mar/12 Lead
jshields 25/Feb/12 2nd

Repeat, previous lead.

davewsargent 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jan/12 2nd
Morwood 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
MD 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark H
Dafydd Llywelyn 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
andrew hammond 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jack adams 01/Oct/11 2nd
with andy
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
btc 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Vik
Jonathan Hall 21/Aug/11 Lead
with Will Ward
Trevera 07/Aug/11 Lead
with Simon Moody
sarah hawker 07/Aug/11 TR dnf

Via Sail Buttress Start. Chickened out of the top section because the swing would have been really nasty if I'd come off.

with Sarah Follmann, Simon M
Tamati ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
charley 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice route :) Did the right hand start. Wasn't too happy with the cam placement, looked quite worn. Maybe just needed a slightly bigger size. Got a bomber tricam in the small finger pocket though.

with Steve Fletcher, Geoff, Kev
Tithe Technique 31/Jul/11 TR dog
chumleywarner 31/Jul/11 TR O/S
antroy 23/Jul/11 Lead
migs493 10/Jul/11 Solo rpt
Dan Geh 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Didn't notice a bold high step. Gear is good and basically at your feet for the crux

tgeh 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
mattpw 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very little in the way of bomber gear below the tricky move and nothing above! Quite scary!

with Neil Drew, Nick Butler
Palindrome ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
liamoloughlin 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Not E1

Steven Andrews 28/May/11 Lead O/S

Though that this was a bit of a soft touch......or alternatively easier for the tall.

with Delphine
steve2006 15/May/11 Lead O/S

the placement hole under the crack is looking a bit over used, so back it up before going for the crux

Bex_M 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Emma-Louise Anderson 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Jim made this look far easier than it felt. It took a while to step up from the ledge and commit, and when I did the holds were not as good as I hoped.... and then I put my foot up and it was over : )

shafiq lalloo 14/Apr/11 Lead
with Ben Ritchie
Ragnaar 12/Apr/11 Lead β

Right-hand start. The step up is bold - you either make it once committed or you're taking a fall! (I thought quite well protected though, so safe)

with martin hirons
Lev 12/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/11 2nd dog
John_Hat 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

If you know the critical section in advance (specifically that the second rockover results in good holds) then its certainly HVS. If you don't then its hellava worrying for two moves and I'd say E1.

with Kevin
robal 09/Apr/11 -
Guy Wilson 07/Apr/11 Lead

Good fun. Feels adventurous stepping up into the unknown but it is all there as always!

with Gavin Moy
Ragnaar 06/Apr/11 TR O/S

Did this instead of following Martin up the VS

with martin hirons
KatrinaP 02/Apr/11 2nd
Sam Ash 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
pmurdy 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd dog
matt0759 06/Mar/11 Lead
with James Ayres & Dan Parker
Hidden 06/Mar/11 -
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd
ian d f 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Cake 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S

If that one good move deserves three stars we must have lowered our standards just because it's Birchen.

with Matt
Hidden 25/Feb/11 2nd
Microwired22 25/Feb/11 -
stevorobs3 ??/2011 2nd β
rurp ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
AielSavage ??/2011 Lead

was a massive relief gaining the slab! awesome route.

Tom Macleod ??/2011 2nd
mattshort 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Chris K
twodada 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

nice! gera was a little marginal, tries to back up with a peanut in the flake but that fell out once I had moved passed.

with Kiwi Pete, Pete Needen
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd
JamieSparkes 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S

whoa, feels a little bold and precarious stepping up past the flake

llamaglama 12/Oct/10 2nd
with Jam
Jimbo C 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Gethin
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
gethin_allen 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A bit wobbly at the high-step/rock over but otherwise pretty good fun.

with Jimbo C
philboy 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with bisanth
Hidden 21/Sep/10 TR
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Sgt. Vest 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Braine
tomthecoolperson 13/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Daniel Heath 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Nice. Crux is like Topsail but harder

Mike_Hayes 04/Sep/10 -
ElvisLeg 04/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Daniel Heath
Hidden 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
cj1970 01/Sep/10 Lead dnf
DaveFidler 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Thomas Welch, Arron Quinn
A Crook 30/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
simeclimb68 14/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Jim Slater 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Took a while to sus out the crux..

Graeme Hammond 12/Aug/10 Lead rpt

think the down grade in the new bmc guide is spot on... a reachy one move wonder... it took longer to set up the belay. Still nice.

with Angus Malcolm
Hidden 10/Aug/10 2nd
Katya 10/Aug/10 2nd
with Alex Dalton
frume 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Big bold reach with not much gear after, good job it gets easier.

with Dan Bluck
chrisbussell 03/Aug/10 Lead
with Jonny Wing
dean79 20/Jul/10 2nd
with alan watson
marclloyd77 18/Jul/10 2nd
toasted 18/Jul/10 Lead

Took a fall when down climbing from an initial excursion onto the slab. I blame the rain from earlier in the day.

with Marc Lloyd
Glasera 11/Jul/10 2nd dog
Matt Fry 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Alistair Corbett 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
maxkellock 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

very good route with some good reaches in.

Hidden 07/Jun/10 TR
philboy 07/Jun/10 TR
with matt g
pete1993 31/May/10 TR
max_chan 20/May/10 Lead rpt
with Lou
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
markhilton 11/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 2nd dog
natalio 02/May/10 2nd O/S
AsleepOnBelay 01/May/10 Lead O/S

Couldn't get anything decent to stay in the flake, and anyhow, it's only six inches above the horizontal break. Moved up to do the crux a few times, sussed it on the third. Glad to get something in above that. Felt like middling HVS at best, but a real buzz to lead.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 01/May/10 2nd
tebs 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S

nice groove using the thin crack to start, balancy round the arete and one more move to easy ground. soft.

with Jon
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Solo O/S
radioactivekid 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Kyya
Chris M 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Tommy B
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
bennevis 19/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jon
alisonsmigova 17/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead
D.Andrew 12/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/10 TR
Maxim2023 ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Matt Smith
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 19/Mar/10 Lead
with Andy
Mark D 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Tommy B
Aufton ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
fatblacktone ??/2010 Lead O/S
DannyK 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Steph, Monkey, pep, Katie
Hidden 10/Oct/09 TR β
goi.ashmore 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with John Haslam
Rowansb ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead
matsavage 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Twisty 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Rayan Sammut
snakebite 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Sheehan
cooper leek 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with donk
donkster 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with ben, DaveNW
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
tallsop 25/Aug/09 2nd
with Dave Saxby
Irn Bruce 22/Aug/09 Lead dog

Ian made the lead as far as the crux but was too pumped to finish. After swapping I lead, clipping the previous gear but faltered at the crux. Made the long power reach to delicate sloper on the second attempt to finish the climb - tough HVS!

Mark_RMC 17/Aug/09 TR

Had to rescue Claire off the top of this after she took a big lob. Following up I can see the difficulty and also fell off the reachy crux move. Good fun.

with Rob Smart
Andrew Barker 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Indirect start, didn't realise there was another start. Did the crux in a balancey reachy way rather than the high step.

JWB 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Took a few attempts (moving uo, trying and then stepping back down) at the crux but once I had worked out the move it was easy. Made me wonder what I had been messing around at!

with Martin Harrell
Rampikino 05/Jul/09 TR
with Cat
fatbuoybazza 27/Jun/09 Lead β
gg4419 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/09 Lead

One tricky move but a delightful one. More like HVS really.

amstel 28/May/09 2nd
Hidden 10/May/09 2nd
adam carless 10/May/09 Lead O/S

Right hand start (as for the E2). Crux done as a long stretch rather than a nifty rockover (as demonstrated by Flicka). Relative grading - If Orpheus wall is HVS 5c, this only deserves VS 5a.

with Flicka
hamish2016 06/May/09 Lead O/S
with Emma Wright
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
max_chan 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
heavy Belay 05/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead
Laurence Everitt 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Good fun, not too tricky, got a number 5 nut in the flake, wasn't perfect but seemed good enough i think

Hidden 21/Mar/09 -
hellboundblr 21/Mar/09 Lead dnf

Fell repeatedly at crux on to ledge, eventually resulting in two sprained ankles.

Milne 28/Feb/09 Lead dnf

did direct start no probs, bottled it on crux, going dark, too scary, couldnt get any gear to sit in the flake, nasty for HVS.

Mattyk 20/Feb/09 Lead O/S

soft for E1, but really nice route. great moves! started from rhs up thin groove/ crack.

with Tim Kavanagh
Hidden ??/2009 -
catblack ??/2009 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Stig 26/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dave
howlingbaboon 26/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with James
Andysomething 19/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Colin Binks
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Lady Lou Lou 07/Sep/08 2nd rpt

took an awesome swing on this one when my leader's gear fell out. beautiful climb tho. not ideal for the shorter people, but definately do-able.

with Anthony Allsopp
mattjam ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with holloway
SGD 13/Jul/08 Lead

it is a very long reach. I'm 5,6 and I had to readjust my feet several times before I was able to get a finger tip on the hold - lovely move though

with Jenny Upright
gb83 22/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with masa
masa-alpin 22/Jun/08 Lead
with Claudia, P Luke, Graeme B, Andy Rich
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
tom_1985 13/Jun/08 Lead


with Jules
Jules_Robbo 13/Jun/08 2nd dnf
with Tom
Julian Mowbray 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Pash
Castleclimber 24/May/08 2nd
gb83 15/May/08 Lead dog

superb route! took the direct route up the thin flake then traverse round the arete

with I.Killey
jak.kelly 10/May/08 Lead rpt
with Lynnette Evans
London Luke ?/May/08 Lead
roberto18 16/Apr/08 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Pete Graham ??/2008 Lead
with Rick Graham
fatbuoybazza ??/2008 Lead dnf

bit of a toughie for me, would you trust any gear in that flake??, had gear in the break at half height, just couldnt quite pull through on the crap holds after the flake, top roped it fine tho, aint it always the way..

with olivia & phil
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
richw2k2 ?/Dec/07 2nd O/S
Andy Clarke 17/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Rich
Sidekick 14/Nov/07 Solo O/S
OffshoreAndy 17/Oct/07 2nd
with NCC Nic
Nick Taylor 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Nick F Smith ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 29/Sep/07 2nd
Somerset swede basher 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah, Abi and Dave
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd
clintos 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with jonny green
Oceanic ?/Aug/07 -
jonny_098 30/Jul/07 2nd β
with Matt Bazire
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Solo O/S
JonBray 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with John, Paul
Becky E 20/May/07 2nd dog

Cheated a bit

with Charles Mason
Pythonist 18/May/07 Lead O/S

Only E1 if you don't get gear in the flake before the rock leftwards (and I didn't).

with Chris Jennions
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead
IanJackson 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Robeverybody
Graeme Hammond 14/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Lauren Foster/Keeler
derico 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Jack
Tobias at Home 21/Jan/07 Lead O/S

not much decent gear in the crack.

Mike_Hayes ??/2007 -
Adam Moroz ??/2007 Lead
Coel Hellier 29/Oct/06 Lead
maybe_si 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Matt
Jack Symmons ?/Oct/06 Lead

Done in the wet and dry. Know it by heart now.

with Dave P
colin milton 01/Sep/06 2nd
chrissloan84 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Andy G
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Jul/06 Solo O/S
CJE 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Neill McMullan
russonly 28/Jun/06 Solo β

Nice move, real buzz on a solo.

zcapxa5 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/06 2nd O/S
david morse 11/Jun/06 Solo
leon ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
nikmorgan ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Martyn Beardsley
SMc ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Anne
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/06 TR dog
Hidden 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Pete Graham ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Dave Morris
richw2k2 11/Dec/05 Lead O/S

Excellent! My first E1 and my first 5b!

with Simon Patrick
Owen W-G 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tom
shark 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Morris
Hidden 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Alex Mason ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

found this dead easy no 1 bit of gear was great but together not bad tonked out the crux easy and the sprinted to top

with steve g
Ben1983 ?/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Dave Mason ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Trev Tatler
Hidden 04/Jun/05 Lead
madaxeman 17/May/05 TR


with Dave Potts
Scottish78 03/May/05 Lead O/S
mwh 02/May/05 2nd O/S
with JamesB
Lev 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with James Burrows
Phil West 30/Apr/05 Lead dnf
with Chris Tan
Shaw Brown ??/2005 2nd
with porno
Tom Last ?/Oct/04 2nd
with Will
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with SUMC
Stefan 13/Jun/04 TR O/S
climbingrev 02/Jun/04 Lead RP

Same start as Sail Buttress (HS). Then Straight / Right over overhang on slopey rounded non-jug. Straight up "steps" after. On leading, found true line to be out to right, using crack, high step and reach. My 1st E1 lead. Crux is quite a pull on not very much. Top is all foot balance - slabby.

Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
tommytwotone 09/May/04 2nd O/S
with Richard Hatton
Daniel Armitage 03/Apr/04 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2004 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/03 TR
SteveM 11/Oct/03 Lead
Alfredo ?/Oct/03 2nd
darren1 21/Jun/03 -
sean0409 27/Apr/03 Lead RP

i practiced the crux on top rope but found it easy after i watched my partners fault the reach off the flake has a hidden crimp up right rather than the sloper then get established and go again,abit commiting but not too bad. i did like the route though

Hidden 07/Apr/03 TR
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Mike Harris
Ram MkiV 07/Jan/03 Lead O/S

freezing. had a good sledge afterwards.

with Dan Holdsworth
Urgles ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with Laura
phardman 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Budge 11/Jul/02 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 08/May/02 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/01 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 12/Jun/01 Lead
cem 10/Jun/01 Lead rpt
with Neil Northrop
cem 10/Sep/00 2nd
with Miles Butteriss
Hidden 03/Sep/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/00 2nd
Rich Malcolm 04/Jun/00 Lead O/S
migs493 27/May/00 Lead O/S
Dave Bond ??/2000 Lead O/S
with john v
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/99 Lead rpt
nige pacer 28/Apr/99 Lead O/S
ajc 11/Apr/99 Lead dnf
adam carless ??/1999 TR O/S
craig d ??/1999 -
Hidden 11/Oct/98 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/98 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 13/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 22/Mar/98 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/1998 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 14/Dec/97 Lead
with Louise Pellett
chris sm 19/Oct/97 Lead O/S
The Reaper 27/Sep/97 Lead dnf
martroberts 01/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/97 2nd β
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/97 -
with MT
BruceW ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Keith S.
Hidden 05/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1996 -
sdht ??/1994 -
Chris Reid ?/May/93 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/92 Lead O/S

Surely only 5a

Hidden 09/Jul/91 TR
Roget 09/Jul/91 Solo rpt
Roget 06/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with chris jones
kato'sdad ?/May/91 Solo
Hidden 13/Oct/90 2nd
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
tapley 21/Aug/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
steve prior ?/Jun/87 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Chris the Tall ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S

2nd HVS lead

with Dave Gurney
Hidden 15/Sep/85 2nd O/S
steveb2006 02/Jun/85 Lead

Janet belays

Nigel Bond 25/Jun/83 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
mark-abz 27/Apr/82 TR
Rob Davies 01/Jun/80 Lead
with Mike Papworth
Ken Taylor 20/Apr/79 AltLd
with George Diprose
RichardMc 06/Nov/77 Lead
with Martin Stanton
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Lead rpt
with Harry Woodbridge
RichardMc 19/Oct/75 Lead O/S

The guide book said VS!

with John Antill
rogerskews ??/1971 -
with Various
Andy Say ??/1971 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Ardo, Ben T@ylor, harrison, Hidden, Hidden, hirving, hellboundblr, dmurray, Hidden, Valentino, WhipperSnapper, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, npanderson, Hidden, papalazarou, Hidden, pc1983, Aaron Hauptmann, Steve Waters, Mynydd, paul birch, ajc, RussB, Hidden, climbinmunkey, LittleJoe, Hidden, climbingrick, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 62
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 119
Votes cast 112
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set