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Monument Gully Buttress HVS 5b

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[Glynn on Monument Gully Buttress Birchen Edge, "Do you think I have enough gear", 2 kb]8m. The arete has tough moves to get stood on the beak at half-height, a huge jug on the ledge is helpful and getting ensconced in the break will cause no end of trouble. The exit is rounded too. A long-standing Severe from the old days! © ROCKFAX
FA. Ken Wright 1951

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Photo: Glynn on Monument Gully Buttress Birchen Edge, "Do you think I have enough gear" © CrashMat Rob
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 265 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Slightly awkward getting established on the slab but relatively straightforward otherwise. Would maybe give it 5a. Good gear and good rests where needed.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/14 with Maumau

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

nick ferro - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Sonam Norbu

OllyT - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/14

nation1 - 2nd - 27/Aug/14 with Olly

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/14

Sjpartlett - Lead - Aug/14 with Jade Edwards leaney

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/14

jshields - 2nd - 25/Jun/14 with Tony Fidler

johnl - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Andy Dunford

Starts ok, the arÍte move is quite tricky and off balance, not much there to pull through on, fine if you are flexible and have long legs, key is to get your right foot up on the ledge and step up
Johnny B Diggerman - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/14 with Dan L

riff156 - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Liz Osbourne

quickdrawmcraw - 14/Jun/14

Actually 2nd pete on it July 03, class as onsight.
nige pacer - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Mike Lea

batterj2 - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/14 with Ricky Nos

climbingrick - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

lloydellis93 - 2nd - 21/May/14

planetmarshall - Lead dog - 29/Apr/14 with Mike

Jackwd - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Charley Fell, Kev Titheradge, Angela Paul

Straightforward if you avoid getting drawn into the break and knee bar. Don't think it was a 5b move, more 5a..
charley - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/14 with JackD, Ange, Kev

Tithe Technique - TR O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Jack Drake, Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Really chuffed to finish this but to get it clean was awesome :D Felt reasonably straightforward on a rope!!
valentinesbabe - TR O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Jack Drake, Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

Proper grit climbing! Definitely worth a star...
gazfellows - Lead - 16/Apr/14 with Nic

Quite a battle! Think I've sprained my whole body.
Ragnaar - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with martin hirons

hahhahahahahaha
the power - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/13 with deacon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13

Good awkward fun
JimboWizbo - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Beth

fredallingham - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

RFWilkie - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Kev

Yarded on a nut to get established. Did not enjoy the climbing above.
robaj - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13

Brilliant micro route. However, there's not a 5b move in it and its loaded with good gear so not HVS either. VS 5a all day long.
wild_nomad - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13

999thAndy - 2nd - 30/Jul/13

JEP - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13

Hidden - TR - 25/Jun/13

Awkward. Thanks Lew for pointing out where the foothold I couldn't see was!
JohnHutch - Lead - 17/Jun/13 with L

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13

scott mayled - TR O/S - 04/Jun/13 with zoomer

Teaching day.
Zoomer - TR O/S - 04/Jun/13 with A Student

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Pete Colledge

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13 with Dom

Peakology - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Chalkycat

Lukem6 - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Jenny Monkey

Jenny Monkey - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Luke Mansfield

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13

SPD224 - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Martin Smith

Managed to get my knees stuck in a double kneebar, took some thinking to manage to get them out without screwing up! :-P
Alkis - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Chris Aslin

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with chris Lyness

JP78 - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Apr/13

good fun rounte had a laugh laying on the ledge.
LukeP LCC - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/13 with steve kirman

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/13

alp79 - 2nd - 14/Apr/13 with Jonny Ashton

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Andrew Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Paul Hazell

Nice climb and a good seated rest mid crux.
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12

grp - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12

funny old climb!
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with rob cooper, andy lawrence

scottidog - 2nd β - 07/Oct/12

cjbaker - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Scotty, Alvaro

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/12

tsjx - 2nd - 16/Sep/12 with Bruce

Certainly would have been a bit hairy for a severe, although I didn't have any issues with it. Fairly pumpy at the start, had a quick straddle of the bulge on the break whilst placing gear, but was easy to move on up after, despite what the guide suggests.
pc1983 - Lead β - 15/Sep/12

Took quite a while to get on top of the beak. My legs are too long to use the jug and I ended up using the sloping crack to get up!
cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Aeron Buchanan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Cassidy - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Helen Cassidy

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 19/Aug/12 with Oceanic

Oceanic - 19/Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/12

Wayne S - Lead - 20/Jul/12

robblowen - Lead dog - 17/Jul/12 with Wayne

65m moderate millington - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/12 with naomi hatto

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/12

al jackson - Lead - Jul/12

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/12

Not HVS5b maybe VS5a
shaun walby - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Nick Whelan

Hidden - 2nd RP - 04/Jun/12

Cool route, apparently I did the awkward move the best? Fun though, brilliant rockover, most amount of jugs I've seen on a HVS I think!
col3 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Rhian, Cripsey, Dad, Paul

rested on gear as i thought i had to traverse, got the move first time once i realise i had to go straight up.
Paul1 - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Cripsey, Ian, Nicole

Got hidden in the buttress which was fun but difficult to get out of!
ipblake - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with paul salmon

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Dave C

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/12

Hilarious! (In a good way). Surprisingly fun for such a little route. Nui Seconded easily
martroberts - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

joem - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

RossT - Lead - 17/Mar/12 with Andrew Edwards

James Gomez - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Tom Bauer

Tombauer - Lead - 14/Mar/12 with James Gomez

on site with pre placed gear up to the crux which is a shocker!!!!!!
Rhythm24 - Lead β - 29/Jan/12 with MikeCheque

Hidden - 2nd RP - 28/Jan/12

Rhythm24 - Lead β - 28/Jan/12 with MikeCheque

Goose4 - 2012

Hidden - 2012

lozowen - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/11

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11

ianjdodd - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11 with Jon Allen

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Oct/11

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 18/Sep/11 with Duncan Bell

Great lead by Steve. Will have to try it myself next time...
charley - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Charley Fell

Gazleah - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/11 with serge

cragtyke - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with gareth h

ggflett - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Adam Harvey

adsyrah - TR - 31/Jul/11

VS 5a, and fairly so, in the new guide. The crux for me was definitely getting my hands onto the big break, from there it was just a sequence of comedy rests to the top!
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/11 with Adam

dpmUK - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/11 with victim of mathematics

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 30/Jun/11

ben_250 - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Andrew

Glynnís been climbing well recently, so now was the time to push the grades a little. After spending way too long on Orpheus Wall and a DNF I thought The Keel might be a good one to get his enthusiasm back, good pro one hard move and a little bold walk to the top. His scream off relief and the big grin at the top said it all. You can see the video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3vn_rtuCDk
CrashMat Rob - 2nd β - 27/Apr/11 with Glynn, Colin

Found Hard, Need to remember to use knee bar
Ultimo Dyno Boy - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with James Hoyes, Verity Payne

Hidden - TR dnf - 26/Mar/11

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Matt B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Tricky
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with Normal Steve

the half height break was an interesting no hands rest, may of made it a tad more complicated by lying in the break. good short climb though
stvredmond - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with Sean mercer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Tom Hudson - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10 with Jack Bowley

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/10

wolverine - 04/Sep/10 with Matt Sparkes

Started off on Keel. Delicate.
Oliver Branagan - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/10

slacky - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/10 with Chris Saunders, Ben

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/10

Sam Simpson - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/10

Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with josh hardill

a nice start but with some very interesting moves with slopper holds
Joshhardill - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/10

2 rests at crux.
hellboundblr - Lead dog - 22/May/10 with Danny Smudge

max_chan - Lead O/S - 20/May/10 with Lou

Oliver Houston - Lead - 05/May/10

bennevis - TR - 19/Apr/10 with Jon

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/10

R Spisser - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Gemma Gwynne Stevenson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Nov/09

much harder to stand up when you stand on your rope :o
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Lauren Foster/Keeler

matsavage - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/09

SGD - Lead - 22/Sep/09 with Jonny WMC

paulerussell - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Chris Poad

Hidden - Solo RP - 16/Jul/09

tiga271 - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with mark20

mark20 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09

Elsier - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Stuart

jdgaventa - Lead dog - 02/May/09 with katy

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Andre Knirsch

Hidden - TR rpt - 24/Apr/09

JWB - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jon Gill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Claire Taylor - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Liz Swanson

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/09

Hannah Moulton - Lead - 2009 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2009

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Closer to Sev than HVS
Stig - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08 with Dave

howlingbaboon - 2nd rpt - 26/Oct/08 with James

Sandy Holford - TR RP - 17/Oct/08 with Mark Darby

highfivekrissy - 2nd - Aug/08

Ing - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Jim & Stevie G

Dan 85 - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Heddwyn

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - 2008 with Helen Lear

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/07

OffshoreAndy - 2nd - 17/Oct/07 with NCC Nic

Nick F Smith - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Andy

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Sarah and Abi

Got stranded half in/half out of the break for a while before managing to stand up - much to everyones amusment
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/07 with Ellen Taylor

ellentaylor - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/07 with Adam Thomas

Rampikino - Lead - 09/Sep/07 with MMC Various

Pythonist - Solo rpt - 02/Sep/07

coffeepot - 2nd - 02/Sep/07 with jelaby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/07

Mike Soulby - TR - Sep/07 with hannah moulton

Ropeboy - Lead - 24/Aug/07

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with John Camateras

Steve682 - TR rpt - 14/Jul/07 with Peter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/07

jchenoweth - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07 with Fat Alan

derico - Lead - 26/May/07 with George W

Genuis - just stay as far out of the crack as you can!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 18/May/07 with Chris Jennions

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - 21/Apr/07

climbingrick - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07

gibbo38 - 2nd - 18/Feb/07 with martin

nice knee bars helped defrost hands
Tobias at Home - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/07 with SteveM

Adam Moroz - Lead - 2007

Nicos - Solo O/S - 05/Nov/06 with solo

Hidden - Lead - 29/Oct/06

Some great no-hands rests, but thought I was in trouble with the double knee bar
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Daz & India

chrissloan84 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06 with Andy G

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/06 with Rob

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/06

aled.sage - TR - 24/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/06

leon - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Amanda Skeldon

Hidden - TR O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/06

Hard move to get out of the cave
A Crook - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Duncan Hassell

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with John Inkpen

zcapxa5 - Lead dog - 26/Feb/06 with Dave Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/06

Hidden - TR - 26/Sep/05

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/05 with Will

AngelaC - 2nd - 03/May/05 with Dieter Cole

Phil West - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/05 with Chris Tan

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Apr/05

jl - TR O/S - 10/Apr/05 with SPA Training

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/05

colin milton - 2nd - 26/Sep/04 with Dave V

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Aug/04

Neil Curtis - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/04 with James Tyson

Neil Curtis - TR RP - 17/Apr/04 with James Tyson

Hidden - 2004

Swirly - Lead dog - 24/Oct/03

SteveM - Solo - 28/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/03

followed MartinW in bare feet
CrashMat Rob - 2nd - 16/Jul/03 with Martin Smith, Martin Whelan, Nicky, Glynn

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 13/Jul/03

Hidden - Solo - 21/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/May/03

Nicky Started I had to finish the climb
CrashMat Rob - Lead - 22/Mar/03 with Ryan, Martin Smith, Nicky

dangerousoldfool - 2nd - 2003 with Dave C

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Oct/02

phardman - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/02 with Teresa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/01

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/01 with Neil Northrop

five - Lead O/S - Sep/00

Budge - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/00 with Carl Tiivas

Hidden - Lead - Jun/99

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 15/May/99 with Nicky

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/99

ajoliver - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/98

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/97

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Feb/97

Hidden - 1996

BruceW - Lead RP - 1995 with Keith S.

adam carless - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 1992

Roget - Solo O/S - 09/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/91

malc - TR dog - 12/Nov/89

Hidden - Solo O/S - Nov/89

tapley - Lead - 25/Aug/89 with Alison Tapley

Andy Say - Solo - 08/Oct/88

Iain Thow - 2nd - 20/May/87 with Julian England

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/85

Hidden - 2nd - 1985

Hidden - TR - 21/Apr/83

mark-abz - TR - 27/Apr/82

1980's
CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 1980

RichardMc - Lead - 19/Oct/75 with John Antill

Hidden - TR - 26/May/74

mikej - Solo - 19/Aug/68

mikej - Solo - 30/Apr/66 with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles

mikej - Solo - 10/Oct/65 with Howard Furguson

mikej - TR - 07/Jun/65 with David Short, Ted Markham

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ragnaar, Hidden, simoncov

Voting
Total votes cast 176
hard E10 of 60
E10 of 60
easy E10 of 60
hard HVS3 of 60
HVS36 of 60
easy HVS11 of 60
hard VS8 of 60
VS2 of 60
easy VS0 of 60
hard 5c0 of 59
5c0 of 59
easy 5c0 of 59
hard 5b0 of 59
5b34 of 59
easy 5b7 of 59
hard 5a12 of 59
5a6 of 59
easy 5a0 of 59
3 Stars2 of 57
2 Stars18 of 57
1 Star34 of 57
0 Stars3 of 57
Bag of .....0 of 57
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Style of ascent

Soloed22 of 265 (8.3%)
Lead133 of 265 (50.2%)
Followed76 of 265 (28.7%)
Toproped23 of 265 (8.7%)
Alt Leads1 of 265 (0.4%)
Unknown10 of 265 (3.8%)

'Climbed'95 of 265 (35.8%)
clean O/S129 of 265 (48.7%)
clean β7 of 265 (2.6%)
clean rpt8 of 265 (3.0%)
clean RP6 of 265 (2.3%)
dogged15 of 265 (5.7%)
dnf5 of 265 (1.9%)