Derbyshire > Birchen Edge >
 
Monument Gully Buttress HVS 5b

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[Glynn on Monument Gully Buttress Birchen Edge placing gear, 3 kb]8m. The arete has tough moves to get stood on the beak at half-height, a huge jug on the ledge is helpful and getting ensconced in the break will cause no end of trouble. The exit is rounded too. A long-standing Severe from the old days! © ROCKFAX
FA. Ken Wright 1951

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Photo: Glynn on Monument Gully Buttress Birchen Edge placing gear © CrashMat Rob
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 240 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Quite a battle! Think I've sprained my whole body.
Ragnaar - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with martin hirons

hahhahahahahaha
the power - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/13 with deacon

Beth-Cath-T - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with JimboWizbo

Good awkward fun
JimboWizbo - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Beth

fredallingham - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

RFWilkie - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Kev

Yarded on a nut to get established. Did not enjoy the climbing above.
robaj - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13

Brilliant micro route. However, there's not a 5b move in it and its loaded with good gear so not HVS either. VS 5a all day long.
wild_nomad - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13

999thAndy - 2nd - 30/Jul/13

JEP - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/13

Hidden - TR - 25/Jun/13

Awkward. Thanks Lew for pointing out where the foothold I couldn't see was!
JohnHutch - Lead - 17/Jun/13 with L

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13

scott mayled - TR O/S - 04/Jun/13 with zoomer

Teaching day.
Zoomer - TR O/S - 04/Jun/13 with A Student

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Pete Colledge

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13 with Dom

Peakology - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Chalkycat

Lukem6 - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Jenny Monkey

Jenny Monkey - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Luke Mansfield

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13

SPD224 - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Martin Smith

Managed to get my knees stuck in a double kneebar, took some thinking to manage to get them out without screwing up! :-P
Alkis - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Chris Aslin

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with chris Lyness

JP78 - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Apr/13

good fun rounte had a laugh laying on the ledge.
LukeP LCC - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/13 with steve kirman

ashtond6 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/13

alp79 - 2nd - 14/Apr/13 with Jonny Ashton

PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Andrew Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Paul Hazell

Nice climb and a good seated rest mid crux.
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12

grp - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12

funny old climb!
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with rob cooper, andy lawrence

scottidog - 2nd β - 07/Oct/12

cjbaker - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Scotty, Alvaro

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/12

tsjx - 2nd - 16/Sep/12 with Bruce

Certainly would have been a bit hairy for a severe, although I didn't have any issues with it. Fairly pumpy at the start, had a quick straddle of the bulge on the break whilst placing gear, but was easy to move on up after, despite what the guide suggests.
pc1983 - Lead β - 15/Sep/12

Took quite a while to get on top of the beak. My legs are too long to use the jug and I ended up using the sloping crack to get up!
cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Aeron Buchanan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Cassidy - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Helen Cassidy

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 19/Aug/12 with Oceanic

Oceanic - 19/Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/12

Wayne S - Lead - 20/Jul/12

robblowen - Lead dog - 17/Jul/12 with Wayne

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/12

al jackson - Lead - Jul/12

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/12

Not HVS5b maybe VS5a
shaun walby - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Nick Whelan

Hidden - 2nd RP - 04/Jun/12

Cool route, apparently I did the awkward move the best? Fun though, brilliant rockover, most amount of jugs I've seen on a HVS I think!
col3 - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Rhian, Cripsey, Dad, Paul

rested on gear as i thought i had to traverse, got the move first time once i realise i had to go straight up.
Paul1 - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Cripsey, Ian, Nicole

Got hidden in the buttress which was fun but difficult to get out of!
ipblake - 2nd - 04/Jun/12 with paul salmon

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Dave C

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/12

Hilarious! (In a good way). Surprisingly fun for such a little route. Nui Seconded easily
martroberts - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

joem - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

RossT - Lead - 17/Mar/12 with Andrew Edwards

James Gomez - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Tom Bauer

Tombauer - Lead - 14/Mar/12 with James Gomez

on site with pre placed gear up to the crux which is a shocker!!!!!!
Rhythm24 - Lead β - 29/Jan/12 with MikeCheque

Hidden - 2nd RP - 28/Jan/12

Rhythm24 - Lead β - 28/Jan/12 with MikeCheque

Goose4 - 2012

Hidden - 2012

lozowen - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/11

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11

ianjdodd - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/11 with Jon Allen

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Oct/11

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 18/Sep/11 with Duncan Bell

Great lead by Steve. Will have to try it myself next time...
charley - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Charley Fell

Gazleah - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/11 with serge

cragtyke - 2nd - 17/Sep/11 with gareth h

ggflett - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Adam Harvey

adsyrah - TR - 31/Jul/11

VS 5a, and fairly so, in the new guide. The crux for me was definitely getting my hands onto the big break, from there it was just a sequence of comedy rests to the top!
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/11 with Adam

dpmUK - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/11 with victim of mathematics

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 30/Jun/11

ben_250 - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Andrew

Glynnís been climbing well recently, so now was the time to push the grades a little. After spending way too long on Orpheus Wall and a DNF I thought The Keel might be a good one to get his enthusiasm back, good pro one hard move and a little bold walk to the top. His scream off relief and the big grin at the top said it all. You can see the video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3vn_rtuCDk
CrashMat Rob - 2nd β - 27/Apr/11 with Glynn, Colin

Found Hard, Need to remember to use knee bar
Ultimo Dyno Boy - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with James Hoyes, Verity Payne

Hidden - TR dnf - 26/Mar/11

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Matt B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Tricky
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with Normal Steve

the half height break was an interesting no hands rest, may of made it a tad more complicated by lying in the break. good short climb though
stvredmond - Lead - 29/Jan/11 with Sean mercer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Tom Hudson - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/10 with Jack Bowley

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/10

wolverine - 04/Sep/10 with Matt Sparkes

Started off on Keel. Delicate.
Oliver Branagan - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/10

slacky - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/10 with Chris Saunders, Ben

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/10

samsimpson - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/10

Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with josh hardill

a nice start but with some very interesting moves with slopper holds
Joshhardill - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/10

2 rests at crux.
hellboundblr - Lead dog - 22/May/10 with Danny Smudge

max_chan - Lead O/S - 20/May/10 with Lou

Oliver Houston - Lead - 05/May/10

bennevis - TR - 19/Apr/10 with Jon

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/10

R Spisser - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Gemma Gwynne Stevenson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Nov/09

much harder to stand up when you stand on your rope :o
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Lauren Foster

matsavage - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/09

SGD - Lead - 22/Sep/09 with Jonny WMC

paulerussell - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Chris Poad

Hidden - Solo RP - 16/Jul/09

tiga271 - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with mark20

mark20 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09

Elsier - 2nd - 24/May/09 with Stuart

jdgaventa - Lead dog - 02/May/09 with katy

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Andre Knirsch

Hidden - TR rpt - 24/Apr/09

JWB - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jon Gill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Claire Taylor - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Liz Swanson

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/09

Hannah Moulton - Lead - 2009 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2009

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Closer to Sev than HVS
Stig - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08 with Dave

howlingbaboon - 2nd rpt - 26/Oct/08 with James

Sandy Holford - TR RP - 17/Oct/08 with Mark Darby

highfivekrissy - 2nd - Aug/08

Ing - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with Jim & Stevie G

Dan 85 - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Heddwyn

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

LoopyLou - Lead O/S - 2008 with Helen Lear

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/07

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/07

Nick F Smith - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Andy

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Sarah and Abi

Got stranded half in/half out of the break for a while before managing to stand up - much to everyones amusment
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/07 with Ellen Taylor

ellentaylor - 2nd dog - 11/Sep/07 with Adam Thomas

Rampikino - Lead - 09/Sep/07 with MMC Various

Pythonist - Solo rpt - 02/Sep/07

coffeepot - 2nd - 02/Sep/07 with jelaby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/07

Mike Soulby - TR - Sep/07 with hannah moulton

Ropeboy - Lead - 24/Aug/07

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with John Camateras

Steve682 - TR rpt - 14/Jul/07 with Peter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/07

jchenoweth - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07 with Fat Alan

derico - Lead - 26/May/07 with George W

Genuis - just stay as far out of the crack as you can!
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 18/May/07 with Chris Jennions

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07

Hidden - 21/Apr/07

climbingrick - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07

gibbo38 - 2nd - 18/Feb/07 with martin

nice knee bars helped defrost hands
Tobias at Home - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/07 with SteveM

Adam Moroz - Lead - 2007

Nicos - Solo O/S - 05/Nov/06 with solo

Hidden - Lead - 29/Oct/06

Some great no-hands rests, but thought I was in trouble with the double knee bar
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06 with Daz & India

chrissloan84 - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06 with Andy G

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/06 with Rob

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/06

aled.sage - TR - 24/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead - 16/Jun/06

leon - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Amanda Skeldon

Hidden - TR O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/06

Hard move to get out of the cave
A Crook - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Duncan Hassell

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with John Inkpen

zcapxa5 - Lead dog - 26/Feb/06 with Dave Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/06

Hidden - TR - 26/Sep/05

Chris Davids - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/05 with Will

AngelaC - 2nd - 03/May/05 with Dieter Cole

Phil West - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/05 with Chris Tan

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Apr/05

jl - TR O/S - 10/Apr/05 with SPA Training

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/05

colin milton - 2nd - 26/Sep/04 with Dave V

Hidden - 2nd β - 15/Aug/04

Neil Curtis - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/04 with James Tyson

Neil Curtis - TR RP - 17/Apr/04 with James Tyson

Hidden - 2004

Swirly - Lead dog - 24/Oct/03

SteveM - Solo - 28/Sep/03

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/03

Hidden - Solo - Aug/03

followed MartinW in bare feet
CrashMat Rob - 2nd - 16/Jul/03 with Martin Smith, Martin Whelan, Nicky, Glynn

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 13/Jul/03

Nick Smith - UKC - Solo - 21/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/May/03

Nicky Started I had to finish the climb
CrashMat Rob - Lead - 22/Mar/03 with Ryan, Martin Smith, Nicky

dangerousoldfool - 2nd - 2003 with Dave C

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Oct/02

phardman - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/02 with Teresa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/01

cem - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/01 with Neil Northrop

five - Lead O/S - Sep/00

Budge - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/00 with Carl Tiivas

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Jun/99

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 15/May/99 with Nicky

Nick Smith - UKC - 2nd - Apr/99

ajoliver - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/98

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - May/97

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Feb/97

Hidden - 1996

BruceW - Lead RP - 1995 with Keith S.

adam carless - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 1992

Roget - Solo O/S - 09/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/91

malc - TR dog - 12/Nov/89

Andy Say - Solo - 08/Oct/88

Iain Thow - 2nd - 20/May/87 with Julian England

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/85

Hidden - 2nd - 1985

Hidden - TR - 21/Apr/83

mark-abz - TR - 27/Apr/82

1980's
CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 1980

RichardMc - Lead - 19/Oct/75 with John Antill

Hidden - TR - 26/May/74

mikej - Solo - 19/Aug/68

mikej - Solo - 30/Apr/66 with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles

mikej - Solo - 10/Oct/65 with Howard Furguson

mikej - TR - 07/Jun/65 with David Short, Ted Markham

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ragnaar, Hidden, simoncov

Voting
Total votes cast 148
hard E10 of 51
E10 of 51
easy E10 of 51
hard HVS3 of 51
HVS31 of 51
easy HVS9 of 51
hard VS6 of 51
VS2 of 51
easy VS0 of 51
hard 5c0 of 50
5c0 of 50
easy 5c0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 50
5b32 of 50
easy 5b6 of 50
hard 5a10 of 50
5a2 of 50
easy 5a0 of 50
3 Stars2 of 47
2 Stars15 of 47
1 Star27 of 47
0 Stars3 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Soloed22 of 240 (9.2%)
Lead119 of 240 (49.6%)
Followed68 of 240 (28.3%)
Toproped21 of 240 (8.8%)
Alt Leads1 of 240 (0.4%)
Unknown9 of 240 (3.8%)

'Climbed'86 of 240 (35.8%)
clean O/S117 of 240 (48.8%)
clean β7 of 240 (2.9%)
clean rpt7 of 240 (2.9%)
clean RP6 of 240 (2.5%)
dogged12 of 240 (5.0%)
dnf5 of 240 (2.1%)