The Keel HVS 5b
[The Keel, Birchen., 3 kb]8m. The wall 2m right of the arete has hard moves to get established in the midway break and then eases dramatically. Another route graded Severe for years. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Photo: The Keel, Birchen. © KevinGibbs

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 115 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - TR dnf - 15/Sep/14

benlatham07 - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/14

batterj2 - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Ricky Nos

climbingrick - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

Right hand in thumb-up fist jam. Left handhold a good under-pocket.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 03/Aug/13 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Aug/13

cjd91 - Lead O/S - Aug/13

claregardiner - Lead - 20/Jul/13

Mario Grabinski - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/13 with Connor Dickinson

Mario Grabinski - 2nd - 17/Jul/13 with Connor Dickinson

Hidden - TR - 25/Jun/13

scott mayled - TR O/S - 04/Jun/13 with zoomer

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/13

A lot stiffer than MGB next door.
Zoomer - TR O/S - 04/Jun/13 with A Student

AlanPedrick - 2013

ashtond6 - 2nd - 07/Oct/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/12

Tried keeping to the right (didn't want to stray onto the line of Monument Gully Buttress) but couldn't find a way up.
cameron_hall - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/12 with Aeron Buchanan

Having decided to try going left on top-rope, I got this first go. Tried some more on top-rope afterwards, looking for a way up to the right, but didn't manage to find a way.
cameron_hall - TR β - 09/Sep/12 with Aeron Buchanan

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 19/Aug/12 with Oceanic

Oceanic - 19/Aug/12

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/12

Wayne S - Lead - 20/Jul/12

robblowen - 2nd β - 17/Jul/12 with Wayne

Hidden - 11/Jun/12

shaun walby - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Nick Whelan

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/12

Nick F Smith - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Duncan Bell

Got as far as a left foot in the break but didn't have enough energy or confidence to commit. Tried it three times loosing energy each attempt, slipped & fell while down climbing the third go and landed on Steve. Will have to try it again next time with fresh arms...
charley - Lead dnf - 17/Sep/11 with Steve Fletcher

chumleywarner - 2nd dnf - 17/Sep/11 with Charley Fell

Gazleah - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/11 with serge

VoM led the VS to the left on 2 ropes, I followed on the right rope up this route. Had a proper faff getting past the break.
adam carless - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/11 with victim of mathematics

Guy Wilson - Lead - 07/Apr/11 with Rick Cotgreave & Gavin Moy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/11

Numerous returns to ground from gear. Felt easy when finally did it as is usually the way.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead dog - 12/Mar/11 with Normal Steve

lozowen - Solo - 04/Feb/11

Belayed Silje for about 90 minutes until she finally got over the ledge, then failed to get past it in 20 minutes of trying - back to the Severes!
Thoms6974 - 2nd dnf - 19/Sep/10 with Silje

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/10

haydng - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Richard Gilbert

AlistairB - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Lisa

Committed to the break but heel hook was inappropriate and hand holds disappeared, fell and gear popped - no drama really. Haydn stepped up and rocked over a high foot, much better. I should have led this - cross with myself.
Richard Gilbert - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10 with Haydn Gaukroger

bigdrew - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/10 with Lizzie

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/10

slacky - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/10 with Chris Saunders, Ben

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10 with Pete

Matt Fry - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Andy Janezko

bigdrew - Lead dog - 08/Aug/10 with Matt Fry

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Oliver Houston - Lead - 05/May/10

powellj69 - Lead - 05/May/10

stefie c - 2nd - 05/May/10 with John Powell

Greasy/wet, 1 fall, lowered, then did clean
mark20 - Lead rpt - 03/May/10

bennevis - TR - 19/Apr/10 with Jon

Great moves over the roof, took some figuring out!
James_D - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Tim

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Lauren Foster/Keeler

tallsop - 2nd - 25/Aug/09 with Dave Saxby

paulerussell - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Chris Poad

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Trevor Wilson

Phil1967 - TR - 31/Mar/09 with SPA Assess

eeonz - TR - Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

keith leonard - 2nd - 2009

drysori - Lead - 2009

btc - 2nd - 05/Apr/08 with floris b

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/07 with NCC Nic

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Sarah and Abi

Hidden - Lead β - 09/Jun/07

jchenoweth - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07

derico - Lead - 26/May/07 with George W

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 18/May/07 with Chris Jennions

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07

Adam Moroz - Lead - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hannah Moulton - TR - 2007 with Spudly

Nicos - Solo O/S - 05/Nov/06 with solo

Rampikino - Lead - 08/Oct/06 with MMC Various

naughtybadboy - Lead - 08/Oct/06

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/06

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - TR - 26/Sep/05

Lev - Lead O/S - 02/May/05 with James Byrne

Phil West - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/05 with Chris Tan

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/04

Backed off
SteveM - Lead dnf - 11/Oct/03

LankyPaddy - Solo O/S - 19/Sep/03

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Trev Tatler

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 13/Jul/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/May/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/Oct/02

cem - 2nd - 10/Jun/01 with Neil Northrop

marcoleptic - Lead dnf - 2000 with Ben

Hidden - Lead - Jun/99

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - Apr/99

ajoliver - 2nd O/S - 02/May/98 with Jonathan Russell

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/97 with Kelly's Ian

Roget - Solo O/S - 31/Mar/97

adam carless - TR O/S - 1992

adi bryant - 2nd - 13/Oct/90

malc - TR - 12/Nov/89

tapley - Lead - 25/Aug/89 with Alison Tapley

Dave Musgrove - 19/Mar/89 with Rupert Wyard, Pete Finklaire, Kim Greenald, David

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 30/Apr/88

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1988

Hidden - Solo - 23/Jul/83

Hidden - TR - 21/Apr/83

mark-abz - TR - 27/Apr/82

Andy Say - Lead - 1971

A bit stiff for Severe
mikej - TR - 30/Aug/65 with Paul Richardson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ragnaar, npanderson

Voting
Total votes cast 66
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E10 of 23
hard HVS1 of 23
HVS16 of 23
easy HVS5 of 23
hard VS1 of 23
VS0 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard 5c0 of 24
5c0 of 24
easy 5c1 of 24
hard 5b1 of 24
5b14 of 24
easy 5b5 of 24
hard 5a3 of 24
5a0 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
3 Stars0 of 19
2 Stars2 of 19
1 Star8 of 19
0 Stars8 of 19
Bag of .....1 of 19
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf