Poema de Roca P1*** 7a
[Poema de Roca (P1) Flash, 2 kb]23m.

Rockfax Description
23m. A fun, and pumpy romp up steep tufas and cracks. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: ROCKFAX El Chorro: Top 50, El Chorro Wishlist Easter 2015, El Chorro dreams 7a and above.

Photo: Poema de Roca (P1) Flash © ANC
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This climb is in 244 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

First 5 meters involved climbing through a cloud of wasps! Good fun thereafter :D
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/15 with Jess Cadwell

Great route, lots of tufa and lots of chance for armbars and kneebars.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 08/Apr/15 with Hyeri

Very happy with the onsight! What a magnificent climb!!! Had to fight a little at the top... :D
climbomaniac - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/15

Difficult for me at this stage but incredibly fun!
Jamie Jacques - Lead dog - Apr/15

dom94 - Lead RP - 25/Mar/15 with milena, Lawrence BP

Dave Mayes - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/15 with The Club

Nice but not great. Tufa routes in Turkey were far better. Very polished. Found the last move tricky until I stumbled upon a hidden jug.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/15 with Kelly (Olive Branch)

Bristoldave - Lead β - 07/Feb/15 with Roald

Tophe - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/15 with Jonny P

Retro flash. Pumpy!
dprctr - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/15

LucasHarazin - Lead RP - 20/Jan/15

nathanlee - Lead β - 02/Jan/15 with Henry Francis, Jack Lawledge, Anna Gilyeat, Oli Grounsell

I see why it's a classic. 3rd go.
madeleine - Lead RP - 13/Dec/14 with Kieran

Jack Delaney - Lead dog - 18/Nov/14 with Emily Barnett

Bron H - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/14

Luuuuuke - Lead RP - 29/Oct/14 with Si

peaches69 - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/14 with luke

E30Adam - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/14 with Angus Gillespie, Alex Dale, Connie Lampka, James Pymn, Kate Young

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with andre hedger

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/Apr/14

Tried it the year previous and just didn't have enough in me. This year on the third redpoint I just had enough!
richardashe - Lead RP - Apr/14 with Russtygibbons

Russtygibbons - 2nd dog - Apr/14 with richardashe

Henry.Todman - Lead dog - 23/Mar/14

papashango - Lead RP - 19/Mar/14 with Elliot

Shawty - Lead RP - 19/Mar/14 with Conor

adamjeffs - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14 with mum

fell off the last bolt
tprebs - Lead dog - 13/Mar/14 with Myles

Did it on first attempt, with a lot of beta shouted up.
gurumed - Lead β - 03/Mar/14 with Sam

Jack.H.92 - Lead O/S - Mar/14

2nd go. missed the hidden jug on the last move
hervenuttall - Lead RP - Mar/14 with Matt W & The Olive Branch Crew

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Feb/14

Lenny - Lead dog - 25/Feb/14

Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/14 with Charlotte Warner

Danny Crump - Lead dog - 11/Feb/14 with Jennie

Danny Crump - Lead dog - 08/Feb/14 with Jennie

Danny Crump - TR - 08/Feb/14 with Jennie

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/14

Hidden - Lead dog - Feb/14

philhaigh - 2nd dog - 25/Jan/14 with Ed Babs, Mike Hawkins

2nd go. Fantastic.
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 25/Jan/14 with Phil Haigh, Mike Hawkins

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/14 with Mark Busby

Pathological_Climber - Lead O/S - 04/Jan/14

martincoia - Lead β - Jan/14

craigchomitzki - Lead RP - 2014

2nd go
TonyB - Lead RP - 29/Dec/13 with Louisa

soph - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Tony Stone

Ricky Rocks - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Nov/13

1st Red Point
oread - Lead β - 22/Nov/13

Awesome, even though it was covered in wasps drinking from drips on the tufa.
Macleod - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/13 with scott

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Nov/13

justin c - Lead RP - Oct/13 with steph crowley

j.buckley87 - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/13

ambrooker - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/13 with Tom

My arms!
Adam_42 - Lead dog - 03/Apr/13 with Alex Cooper

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/13

Out of my league but managed the first half clean before reaching the very polished section above. Could have had this clean if I had a few more days of holiday
JonnyW - Lead dog - 31/Mar/13 with Andrew Clow

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/13

Hidden - Mar/13

Lovely route with lovely moves but just didn't have the stamina to do it clean all the way. When I'm back in the area will definitely have another go!
richardashe - Lead dog - Mar/13

mjackson - Lead dog - Mar/13

switch - Lead β - 24/Feb/13 with Leon

Nice climbing!
TCCB - Lead β - 17/Feb/13

tprebs - Lead dog - 17/Feb/13 with Kevin Kilroy, John O'Hara

awesome route! probably the best 7a i have ever done. the polish is insane, but if you ignore that its quality.
willoates - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Becky Brown

fletch540 - Lead - Feb/13

Very over my limit totally dogged up with no style! Next year maybe
goddamm7 - 2nd dog - 30/Jan/13 with sarah batson

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/13 with pep

Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2013

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Dec/12

1st go today
cliffrad - Lead RP - 24/Dec/12 with Charlotte Garden

Smegged up the flash.
jiggerypokery - Lead dnf - 23/Dec/12 with Rosea Day

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Dec/12

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 23/Dec/12 with Liam Postlethwaite

Fell off last move on sight! Pumped out of my box!
cliffrad - Lead dnf - 21/Dec/12 with Charlotte Garden

CharlotteGarden1 - Lead β - 21/Dec/12 with Cliff Hopkins

Rosea Day - Lead dnf - 20/Dec/12 with Jerome Gill

completely battered by the time I got over the roof.
Jonathan Emett - Lead dnf - 05/Dec/12 with orange craig

Aaron.Clifford - Lead RP - Dec/12

KKilroy - Lead O/S - Dec/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/12

Jaime Mitchell - 2nd dnf - 29/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/12

Qisheng Xie - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Aaron Clifford

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

allyrocke - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/12 with Liyen Nhuyen

Miles and miles away from getting this.
Liam Ingram - Lead dog - 12/Apr/12 with Fergus Cuthill

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Apr/12

david morse - Lead RP - 04/Apr/12 with josh

Craig Holden - Lead dog - Apr/12

Juanpa.Hernandez - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - TR dog - Mar/12

Attempted to flash with no warm up, got maybe a third of the way before pumping out wildly then dogged the remainder.
mattwyles1 - Lead dog - Feb/12

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/12 with Cherry Bedford, Justin Timms

samwillo - Lead - 10/Jan/12 with Lairig Climbing Club

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/12

Tophe - Lead O/S - 2012 with Martin Smith

took some work, but got there in the end....
tom.ireson - Lead RP - 2012 with Charlotte Latter

Kevster - Lead O/S - 31/Dec/11

Thought I was in kalymnos again..
Tris.w - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/11 with Brad Cox

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Dec/11

Jake Young - Lead dog - 24/Dec/11 with Paul

Absolutely awesome. Fell off trying to flash it, fell off before last clip the next go. Came back and found the rests, absolutely awesome climbing! Almost fluffed the top, first 7a.
James Oswald - Lead RP - 23/Dec/11 with Chris White

Practiced on top rope in the morning. Dogged in the afternoon. Need to work on endurance. One to get clean next time!
owb106 - Lead dog - 21/Dec/11 with Tom Maidwell

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/11

tom106 - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/11 with funsized

Hidden - TR - 17/Dec/11

Cracking climbing, shame I didn't have the beans.
funsized - Lead dog - 17/Dec/11

QD's already in. Incredibly polished, super over chalked, just like in a poor indoor wall... No thank you.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/11 with Elaine Budden

i_a_coops - Lead RP - 13/Dec/11 with Jacob

Onsight to the last 2m os ended up with a flash instead...still pleased; awesome pump!
ANC - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/11

Hidden - TR - 09/Dec/11

1 rest
Greg Pittam - Lead dog - 01/Dec/11 with Raff

got pumped as soon as i touched the rock!!
chrism225 - Lead dnf - Dec/11 with Adam, anna D

Bargate_Champ - Lead O/S - Dec/11

thomb - Lead O/S - Dec/11

mwatson - Lead O/S - Dec/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Nov/11

Rob Pitt - Lead β - 24/Nov/11 with Nick Saunders

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Nov/11

Absolutely awesome!!! Bloody pumpy and worth it's top fifty place so glad I don't have to do it again mind would be a tough one to redpoit!!!! Well deserved my pig out on chocolate and pasta and other fatty foods haha!!!!!
con321 - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tim

LC - Lead O/S - Nov/11

climbingsheep - Lead RP - 22/Oct/11 with Richard Williams

Cooooool! Not as polished as folk say - just needs some footskills!
Fultonius - Lead β - 21/Oct/11

Neil Adams - Lead RP - 21/Oct/11 with Dougie Harvey, Ally F

2nd go
Dougie Harvey - Lead RP - 21/Oct/11 with Andy Mcvittie, Neil Adams, Alasdair Fulton

Hidden - Lead dog - May/11

One fall - damn! Nearly my first 7a! Ran out of steam/technique on the top wall. This will go down if I come back to El Chorro
jalien - Lead dog - 30/Apr/11

Thought I would cruise the retroflash, turns out I got pretty pumped.
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/11 with Laura Perry

Richard Kemble - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11

Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11

Ace F6c tufa's then a hard, out of character slippy traverse. Never mind, one to go back to perhaps. Was meant to be a rest day too!
Dave Warburton - Lead dog - 26/Apr/11 with Rebex, Franco Cookson

JamieSparkes - Lead dog - 23/Apr/11 with Claire Holland

llamaglama - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Jam

Went for the onsight but fell at the penultimate clip! Any further redpoint attempts didn't better this, should have gone easily but wasn't mega psyched for going back to it when there was so much more climbing to be done! Cool route but very polished.
Duncan Campbell - Lead dog - 21/Apr/11 with Florence the Machine

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

2nd go!
Roberto - Lead RP - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Apr/11

HeatherF - Apr/11 with Duncan Campbell

But so much fun doing the first half!
Stone Muppet - Lead dnf - Apr/11 with ceri

owain86 - Lead RP - Apr/11 with Livingstone

billb - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with Lee

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/11

John 'B' Hutchinson - Lead dog - 15/Mar/11 with Bean, Steve, Ina

An amazing route!!!!
Jonathan Bean - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/11 with B and Steve

Amazing route. Chuffed getting the flash, pumped to the max.
stv - Lead β - Mar/11 with B, Beans, Ina

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - Mar/11

Such a good route! managed to find at least 4 hands off rests
Jack R-N - Lead dog - 22/Feb/11

James Marshall - Lead O/S - Feb/11

dprctr - Lead dog - Jan/11 with Roy Goddard

so pumpy and super hard
ollieben - TR - 2011

By the skin of my teeth. Warmed up on this. Mega pump.
DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Oliver Forrest

Henners - Lead O/S - Dec/10 with Alan Cassidy

spidey - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/10 with rory

Hidden - Lead RP - Nov/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Oct/10

Em's first 7a and a tough, pumpy one at that! No hard moves just pretty burly especially getting onto the belay ledge at the top....classic climbing, very like Kalymnos as said below...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/10 with Emily

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Oct/10

Should, could, would have onsighted it if I hadn't fallen off ; ) Polished but it doesn't make a difference.
jacobjlloyd - Lead RP - 12/Jun/10 with Eugene

No endurance as have been bouldering too much...back to thbis one too!!
eugeneth - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10 with Jake

incredible route - shouldn't have fallen off first time at the top, just followed the chalk in the wrong direction
chiverstom - Lead RP - 08/Apr/10 with Alice

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/10

Took 3 rests. Absolutely magnificent route. Can't wait to come back for the Red Point.
BorisVBlade - Lead dog - 06/Apr/10

rustyclimber91 - TR dnf - 02/Apr/10 with harry holmes

Harry Holmes - TR dnf - Apr/10 with Thomas Rust, liam ingram

Attempted retroflash late in the afternoon. Fell off on the last move and, owing to having only eaten a bowl of muesli that day, retched twice on the way down. Fortunately for those below me nothing came up.
Will Hunt - Lead dnf - 27/Mar/10 with Sean Jacobs

So pumped, just made the onsight, real fight, not sure if I liked it or hated it. Was so pumped nearly puked at the top. But then I did miss all the rests
JPGR - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/10 with Yvette

Glyn - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/10 with Dan o'flyn

S Smith - Lead RP - 12/Mar/10

never been so pumped in my life. couldnt avoid watching someone on the lower section so cant claim an onsight but certainly felt like one! glad i stuck in to the end
tomhull - Lead β - 02/Mar/10 with Liam Lonsdale

ran out of steam on the last clip. very nice climb.
markalmack - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/10 with gregg capon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/10

Fell off last move.
Oli - Lead dog - 29/Jan/10 with Eddie Barbour

Lawrie Brand - Lead RP - 24/Jan/10 with Gaz

ashknot - Lead RP - 11/Jan/10 with Tim Rankin

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jan/10

Gazleah - Lead RP - Jan/10 with tom ireson

2nd go: onsight felt desperate; 2nd go pretty easy; did a third time to retrieve draws, felt about 6b+
jgustafsson - Lead RP - Jan/10 with Marco

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/09 with Alice

JonBrown - Lead dnf - 16/Dec/09 with Dave

Glyn - Lead β - 14/Dec/09 with Chris Davis

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Dec/09

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - Dec/09 with Stephen

very steep!
oliwarlow - Lead - 13/Nov/09 with Dave S

JulesV - Lead O/S - Nov/09 with Shauna Cunningham

warm-up with the austrians
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 20/May/09 with Lee Cooper

G-up, easy second time first attempt was on 3rd day.
Alex Mason - Lead RP - 19/May/09 with Lee Cooper

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Apr/09

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Brian Rogers

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Louise Rodgers

Few moves away from onsight. 2nd go!
dj_brigham05 - Lead RP - 10/Apr/09 with Jamie Nicholson

so so steep. got pumped out of my brains on first attempt. second go, lots of shakeouts, kneebars headjams etc it was ok.
w.pettet-smith - Lead RP - Apr/09 with martin haywood

2:nd go. Wonderful route!
Crille - Lead RP - 23/Jan/09 with Peter

1st RP.
Paz - Lead RP - 10/Jan/09 with AB

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/Jan/09

Dave dogged it and put half the clips in. Only just got to the top.
mattcyp88 - Lead β - 09/Jan/09 with Dave Spencer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/09

Toby Dunn - Jan/09 with simon richardson

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Dec/08

Too steep for me.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - Dec/08 with Dave Pattinson

Hidden - Lead - Dec/08

OS'd by the skin of my teeth! Nice route despite the polish but dime a dozen once you've been to kaly.
Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/08 with Martin

Marti999 - Lead β - Nov/08 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/May/08

Hidden - Lead dog - Apr/08

Will Hunt - Lead dnf - Apr/08

lukea - Lead dog - 15/Mar/08 with Al

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Dec/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Sep/07

Dan 85 - Lead dog - 03/Apr/07 with Luke

3 falls
lukeh - Lead dog - Apr/07 with Dan Woolnough

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Feb/07

C coldwell-storry - Lead β - Dec/06 with Adam Gill

lx - Lead - Dec/05 with rich

First 7a onsight!
derico - Lead O/S - Dec/05 with Dave J

Dave Bond - Lead RP - 20/Mar/04 with Simon Wren

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/02

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - Apr/01 with Joe le Sage

shoulders - Lead - 25/Jan/01 with tanya, mart

martroberts - Lead β - Oct/00

serby - Lead O/S - May/00

skygodley - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/99 with Dave Binney

whispering nic - Lead - Jan/99 with The Wife

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/98

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/98

Hidden - Lead dog - Jul/97

Thought it was ok to grab the seat to finsih - have heard otherwise but great fun whatever - made possible by an extraordinary rest - think head jam!
Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1995 with AM

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 12/Dec/94 with Dee Herbert

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/94

OMSKB - Lead dog - 20/Apr/93 with Nick Moore

Mike Owen - 31/Oct/92 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Liamg20025, madeleine, Mutant_Tractor, dprctr, Adam_42, Mattlamb90, OliBangbala, winged_traveller, Seb2007, mr_nsglover, MonkeyDawson, PeteH

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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP