UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
14m. Good climbing up the right hand-side of the slab. Once the sapling is reached there are good small wires and cams, though the cracks can fill with soil. Boldly climb direct to the sapling, or sidle in from the left. Either way the climbing is unprotected and 5a. Step right, then climb direct for 4m before stepping left into a shallow groove which is followed to the top. In-situ static rope belay.

FA. Paul Lintott, Alison Banwell 16/Dec/2001.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fruitflancase

Grade: E1 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)

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