Rockfax Description
Follow the square arete to a ledge. The final move is the crux. UK tech grade of 5a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description

FA. Ernie Marshall 1951

Ticklists: Peak Bouldering - bold-star Eastern-Grit sub 7s, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Hidden 11/Oct Sent dnf
cragsman9000 04/Oct Sent x
with Neil
Hidden 16/Aug Sent O/S
Hidden 15/Aug Lead dog
Dan Vaj 11/Aug Solo O/S
planetmarshall 09/Aug Sent O/S
Hidden 18/Jun Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jun Solo O/S
dominic lee 06/Jun Solo
Hidden 25/May Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May Solo
rockjedi 09/May Sent O/S
Alex_Derbyshire 13/Apr Sent
freemanTom 06/Apr Solo
henry.jeffreys 07/Feb Sent O/S
with UBMC
John1458 07/Feb Sent x
Hidden 07/Feb Sent O/S
highrepute 18/Jan Sent
samdickensuk ?/Jan Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Wayne S 29/Dec/14 Solo O/S

Full Winter Conditions!

John Higgs 13/Dec/14 Solo O/S
Rich Malcolm 19/Oct/14 Solo β
loco wilko ?/Oct/14 Solo
ralphio 21/Sep/14 Solo
gaz3212 10/Sep/14 Solo O/S
freemanTom 30/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Solo
grady_9 19/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Solo
peter.ravenscroft27 24/Jun/14 Solo
newvena 03/Jun/14 Sent O/S
hipyhop 26/May/14 Sent
Mark Duncan 05/May/14 Sent rpt

fun fun fun

with edmund aspbery
Mark Duncan 05/May/14 Sent rpt

fun fun fun

with edmund aspbery
Rampikino 04/May/14 Solo
with SOLO
Blueso 02/May/14 Solo
with Felipe Wigster, Jezz, Anna
Sy Finch 14/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Blueso 13/Apr/14 Solo rpt
with Anna
fuzzysheep01 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Graham Perry
Robin Nichols 07/Mar/14 Sent O/S
grubes 22/Feb/14 Sent O/S
with Alex
Alex Thompson 22/Feb/14 Sent O/S
with Luke
TimG 22/Feb/14 Sent O/S
Wayne S 11/Jan/14 Solo
Hidden 11/Jan/14 Solo
bobstones 29/Dec/13 Sent O/S
chancer 29/Dec/13 Sent O/S
owenhancock22 29/Dec/13 Sent
timbanton 09/Dec/13 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Sent O/S
JoeMortimer 23/Nov/13 Solo
cwildblood 23/Nov/13 Solo O/S
Wayne S 16/Nov/13 Solo
Jimbo C 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S

Getting a bit slippy.

gav 06/Oct/13 Sent

Just climbed the arete to the break as a boulder problem.

Hidden 28/Sep/13 Solo
AndyPagett 22/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't get up the bloody thing. Fairly nice handholds, but I am a weakling. More training needed.

josephxtian 22/Sep/13 Lead β
with Padge
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Mark Duncan 12/Jul/13 Solo
with greg martin
mfisher 04/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Sent
dr_botnik 20/Jun/13 Sent O/S
adam carless 09/Jun/13 Solo rpt
domskezz 01/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 27/May/13 Sent O/S
Blueso 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
B4tgirl 26/May/13 2nd β
with Tony
dmoir 05/May/13 Sent O/S
with Ben and Ian
Ben Harper 05/May/13 Sent O/S
Wayne S 28/Apr/13 Solo
Chris Redding 28/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Slippy. Crux move is scary as hell without pads or spotters.

Matt Rowat 21/Apr/13 Sent
with Fran
freemanTom 19/Apr/13 Solo
ChrisBrooke 02/Mar/13 Solo rpt
Dan Geh 02/Feb/13 Sent O/S
with Freshers
Teappleby ??/2013 Solo
with Dave, max
Laurence Everitt 01/Dec/12 Sent O/S
nathanlee 03/Nov/12 Sent O/S

in the dark

phleppy 20/Oct/12 Sent
Rich Malcolm 14/Oct/12 Solo β
Teappleby ?/Oct/12 Solo
with Pete Hall, Sarah, dad, max
alexrankine30 27/Sep/12 Solo O/S
with Mark
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Solo
darrencabowabo 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S
daviesp2 03/Sep/12 Solo
mullermn 18/Aug/12 Solo O/S
ChrisBrooke 18/Aug/12 Solo rpt
robblowen 08/Aug/12 Sent x

So polished low down!!!

cem 05/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Geff Davey 25/Jul/12 TR dog
ianjdodd 23/Jul/12 TR RP
Ben Hollands 21/Jul/12 Solo O/S
with Wendy Anderson
atom 21/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Sent x
Jethro ?/Jul/12 Solo
David Carpenter 27/Jun/12 2nd dnf

Lost friction on arete

with C Howard
bwestwood 02/Jun/12 Solo
Hidden 26/May/12 Sent O/S
jon_gill1 19/May/12 Solo
Daniel Heath 16/May/12 Solo RP

Yes, ok, I fell off the first move.

nige pacer 13/May/12 Sent x
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Solo rpt
Morwood 20/Mar/12 Sent O/S
Matthew Edwards 18/Mar/12 Lead dog

could not quite get the crux, went up the left side of the arete,standard belly flop once my feel lost slipped off

Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd
danm 02/Mar/12 Sent

V0 5b

DaveFidler 19/Feb/12 Sent
with Rowen
parker236 12/Feb/12 2nd
p_won 10/Jan/12 Lead
with Will caesar, Rob Ceasar
Andyp89 04/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Will Caesar ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
PAJames ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 Sent O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/11 2nd
Chris Manasseh 27/Nov/11 Solo
MD 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark H
birthers 30/Oct/11 2nd
caroline256 30/Oct/11 Lead
with Tom B
Lordcarr 23/Oct/11 Sent O/S
with Rach
jshields 01/Oct/11 Solo


victim of mathematics 28/Sep/11 Sent O/S


gronbech 25/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with Robin & Edward
tinab 24/Sep/11 Solo
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
TGreen 13/Sep/11 Sent O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Sent
HelenMelon 01/Sep/11 Sent
mattgrange 27/Aug/11 Solo

A micro gem

Robb.Haze 19/Aug/11 Solo O/S
with Lizzie Rees, Gemma Hatfield
mtempest 15/Aug/11 Solo
terri mc 09/Aug/11 Sent β
with Lynsey Margarine Eve, Alex
evel 09/Aug/11 Solo RP
with Terri, Alex
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Eddie Shelbourne 04/Jun/11 Sent
Sam Simpson 21/May/11 Solo O/S
graphiclunarkid 17/May/11 Solo O/S

Nice moves up the arete.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Solo O/S
MarkCunnington 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Sent O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Sent O/S
chris warner 02/Apr/11 Lead
Jokysparrow ?/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with shepman
Tamati ?/Apr/11 Solo O/S
lazybones 20/Mar/11 Sent O/S
with Helen Jones
belay bunny turned bad 18/Mar/11 Sent
with loundsy
mtempest 12/Feb/11 Sent
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 12/Feb/11 Solo
lozowen 11/Feb/11 Solo
katyc 23/Jan/11 Sent
fulton333 ??/2011 Solo
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Sent dnf
whiting.jp 24/Oct/10 Sent
with jamesca
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Sent O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Marq 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
mattwyles1 02/Oct/10 Solo
with Ellie, Joe
payeo20 30/Aug/10 Solo

have to commit at the top bit of the arete but not too scary. nice

simeclimb68 30/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Oliver Branagan 29/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Sweet start on the arete. Well worth a play on.

Jamie Buxton 22/Aug/10 2nd dog
with getk
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Solo
climbing_wiggy 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

led then soloed

with John Hayden
Sam Simpson 05/Jul/10 Solo O/S
edd rab 17/Jun/10 Solo O/S
migs493 04/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Solo O/S
charley 09/May/10 Solo O/S
peppermill 25/Apr/10 Solo O/S
bullybones 23/Apr/10 Solo
Ander 17/Apr/10 Lead

Nice moves. Careful footwork need on polished lower footholds esp as had to work for ledge.

andy jennings 17/Apr/10 Solo O/S
paul__in_sheffield 11/Apr/10 Solo
with Noodle
Somerset swede basher 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Katharine.eaton 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
with Wicks, Dom
The Bad Cough 04/Apr/10 Solo O/S
with Christian Minett
B-bop ?/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Jonathan Hall 31/Oct/09 Solo
disturbed_one51 31/Oct/09 Solo
richorme 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
DannyK 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
with Monkey, pep
Graeme Hammond 10/Oct/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 07/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Jon Dittman 09/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 31/Jul/09 Solo
mikej 28/Jul/09 TR
with Rick Naylor
Hidden 16/Jul/09 Solo RP
Hjort 10/Jul/09 Solo O/S
maxkellock 01/Jun/09 Solo rpt

awkward exit on the arete polished holds

maxkellock 11/May/09 Solo O/S

good layback start awkward onto ledge

deacondeacon 10/May/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Solo O/S
jwpil 23/Apr/09 Solo O/S
PanzerHanzler 12/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Pilch 04/Apr/09 Solo

no cheating this time

morrisdaboss 29/Mar/09 Solo β
with JB
chadrads 21/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Benrj 18/Mar/09 Solo
with jay mowat
Jeronimo 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
wingalina 01/Mar/09 Lead

Laybacking the arete is fun and safe landing, but the top got me spooked so downclimbed and got a minimal rack and stuck a cam in the break just to be confident. Made a complete hash of the top of the arete and ended up on my belly at one point. Note to self use the top left of the arete!

with Rob Green
liamoloughlin 01/Mar/09 Solo
Hidden ??/2009 -
Sidekick ??/2009 Solo O/S
D Berry 24/Dec/08 Solo RP
Yanis Nayu 08/Nov/08 Solo dnf

Above a mat. Didn't want to commit to final move, so down-climbed/jumped off.

with Phil Lucas
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Solo O/S
Hammy 11/Sep/08 Solo
PanzerHanzler 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Paul
Andrew Barker ?/Sep/08 Sent

Done before. This time we both did it two-handed, then with left hand only, then with right hand only. Great fun.

with Rob Richards
Hidden 31/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
whiting.jp 25/Aug/08 2nd

Not sure how cheeky the cheeky heel hook is, was very tired (from 3 days hard cragging) so I used it anyway.

with jamesca
Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
andi taxi 24/Aug/08 TR

initial layed back start then a brill hold on top corner of the arete..

with young will fron farndon
SGD 10/Aug/08 Solo

Polished but nice moves above a perfect landing

Hidden 03/Aug/08 2nd
Twisty 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Rayan Sammut
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Solo O/S
morrisdaboss 05/Jul/08 Solo O/S
with Ste 'O' C
vvanhinsbergh 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Rather a slippery start in wet shoes!!

adam carless 10/May/08 Solo rpt
bigbobbyking 03/May/08 Solo
Hidden ?/May/08 Solo
roberto18 27/Apr/08 Solo
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
howlingbaboon 24/Mar/08 Solo O/S
Rampikino 16/Mar/08 Solo
with Cat & Bob
john lynch 09/Mar/08 Solo
with rich armour, Bo Robertson
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Solo O/S
Jonny M 23/Feb/08 Solo O/S
with Solo
Chris Ellis 16/Feb/08 Solo
gareth scott borthwick 09/Feb/08 Solo
Hidden 12/Jan/08 Solo O/S
phil stubbs ??/2008 Solo
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Oli 13/Dec/07 Solo rpt
Ben1983 08/Nov/07 Solo O/S
popebenedictus 03/Nov/07 Solo O/S
with Soloed
cmsg 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Jenni Young
Graeme Hammond 17/Oct/07 Solo rpt
Pilch 06/Oct/07 Solo
gibbo38 14/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Robert
adam carless 02/Sep/07 Solo rpt
adrstoll 02/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Andy Fielding 25/Aug/07 Solo
Pythonist 13/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Joe Marsh 10/Aug/07 Solo O/S
andrewwightman 23/Jul/07 Solo
nai 14/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Marvino 11/Jul/07 Solo

A really tough move to get onto the ledge

Jon_Warner 26/May/07 Solo O/S

ehh took the beached whale topout approach

Hidden 20/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Jane 11/Apr/07 2nd dog
with Neil
tommo1664 08/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 05/Apr/07 Lead β
The Mountain Goat 01/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/07 Solo RP
Hidden 02/Mar/07 Solo
Alfredo ?/Mar/07 Solo
adam carless 01/Jan/07 Solo O/S

good crux move, definitely needs some confidence

steve2006 ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Solo O/S
chiverstom 01/Nov/06 Solo O/S
with Dave Turner
Col Allott 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Sturrock
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
colin milton 01/Sep/06 Lead
Scally ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Maggie
Hidden 13/Aug/06 Solo O/S
oooaaah 15/Jul/06 TR O/S
with Explorer Climbing Club
jrhallen 15/Jul/06 TR β
AJ007 10/Jul/06 Solo
Hidden 09/Jul/06 TR
Owen W-G 04/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Oli 01/Jun/06 Solo O/S
tobydunford 11/May/06 Solo O/S
donkster ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Solo
Graeme Hammond 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Alex P
leerthorp 05/Mar/06 Solo O/S
ChrisBrooke 28/Jan/06 Solo O/S
mc1105 ?/Jan/06 Solo
John Sergeant ??/2006 Solo
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Pythonist ??/2006 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Sep/05 Solo rpt
Swirly 10/Aug/05 Solo O/S
with Dom Clarke
dp1 20/Jul/05 -
with dan bell
mikej 14/Jun/05 Solo
with Rick Naylor
catt 04/Jun/05 Solo O/S
Nicos 17/Apr/05 Solo O/S
with solo
smudge 04/Oct/04 Solo O/S
OffshoreAndy 03/Aug/04 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/May/04 Solo
mikej 27/May/04 Solo
with Rick Naylor
Hidden 23/Apr/04 Solo
Stefan Kruger 10/Apr/04 Solo O/S
with Sarah Porter
samwelli 26/Mar/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
SteveM 28/Sep/03 Solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 13/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Stefan Kruger 06/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Solo
CrashMat Rob 29/Mar/03 Solo
with Ryan, Nicky, Glynn
chrishedgehog 25/Feb/03 Solo
LankyPaddy 30/Jan/03 Solo O/S
Monk ??/2003 -
Hidden 26/Dec/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Budge 11/Jul/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/02 TR
Hidden 26/May/02 Solo O/S
Phil West 06/Apr/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/02 Solo
Neil Curtis 27/Oct/01 Solo O/S
DerwentDiluted 28/Aug/01 Solo
mikej 21/Aug/99 Solo
with M
rocktigger ?/Jun/99 Solo O/S
ajoliver 12/Jun/98 Solo O/S
Strong Steve 09/Apr/95 Solo O/S
andrewbooth1000 ??/1995 Solo
mikej 08/Aug/93 Solo
with M
Hidden 15/Aug/92 Solo
mikej 15/Aug/92 Solo
with Sc, M
Backinthegame ?/Apr/92 Solo
Rob Davies ?/Oct/91 Solo
Roget 09/Jul/91 Solo O/S
Laramadness 14/Oct/89 Solo O/S
tapley ?/Sep/89 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/Jan/88 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 14/Sep/87 Solo
babymoac 26/Oct/85 Solo
Hidden 27/Nov/83 Solo
mark-abz 02/Jun/82 Solo
mikej 18/Oct/81 Solo
with S
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Mark Kemball 03/Dec/77 Solo
Hammy 22/Aug/77 Solo
RichardMc 25/Apr/76 Solo
mikej 03/Jan/76 Solo
Hidden 24/Aug/75 Solo
mikej 20/Apr/75 -
mikej 25/Nov/73 Solo
with Janice Williams, E, Geoff Williams
mikej 27/May/73 Solo
with E
mikej 13/May/73 Solo
mikej 16/Jan/72 Solo
Andy Say ??/1972 Solo
mikej 17/Apr/71 Solo
with E
mikej 31/Aug/70 Solo
with E
mikej 28/Feb/70 Solo
with E
mikej 17/Aug/69 Solo
with E
mikej 04/May/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
mikej 30/Apr/66 Solo
with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles
mikej 27/Dec/65 Solo
with Ted Markham
mikej 10/Oct/65 Solo
with Howard Furguson
mikej 01/Sep/65 Solo
with Ted Markham
mikej 05/Jun/65 Solo
with Barry Regan, Ted Markham
mikej 26/Apr/65 Solo
with Peter Lack, Nigel Sumner
mikej 22/Apr/65 Solo
with Barry Regan, Nigel Sumner
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, David Carpenter, JackPott, markytaylor
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
High f4+
Mid f4+
Low f4+
High f4
Mid f4
Low f4
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set