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Device* VS 4c

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[A delicate position. Martin on Device, Birchen Edge., 3 kb]10m. The buttress is climbed via a mantelshelf, a thin crack and a tricky sloping exit. The gear is not very reassuring. © ROCKFAX
Ernie Marshall 1963

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Photo: A delicate position. Martin on Device, Birchen Edge. © Pelleas
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 132 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Found this really easy. Used a palm down, nice moves
Mark Duncan - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/14 with James Rogers new

robblowen - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Joe Wakefield

JoeWakefield - 2nd - 12/Jun/14 with Rob Blowen

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with liv_the_div

Easy HVS's.
jamesrogersakathebeast - Lead - 2014 with Mark Duncan

Dan Vaj - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Amanda Vajzovic

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Fiona MacDonald

martin one - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Nick

ClareG - TR - 20/Apr/13

AlanPedrick - 2013

the power - 2nd - 10/Nov/12 with paul29uk

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Nov/12

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Oct/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 23/Sep/12

jhsp - TR - 23/Sep/12

mrginna - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Jack Bramhall

jack01 - Lead β - 08/Sep/12 with lan

Wayne S - Lead - 20/Jul/12

HVS4c is about right,steep iffy gear and a tricky move above gear with a sandy sloping exit....not a VS
shaun walby - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/12 with Nick Whelan

Previous solo.
jshields - 2nd - 02/May/12 with Mike Dowsett, Tony Fidler

TDSvejstrup - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/11

Dafydd Llywelyn - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/11 with LUUMC Freshers

tedburt - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Aaron Burdett

Gazleah - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/11 with serge

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/11 with Gareth Lewis

jack adams - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

ggflett - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Adam Harvey

schristophersmith - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with silas feaver

althesin - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with schristophersmith

Hidden - Solo - 13/Jun/11

Damp, gritty, crap gear
mattgrange - Lead - 29/May/11

the_one_jim - Sent O/S - 29/May/11

lozowen - Solo - 24/May/11

Bugger - thought I had done first HVS cleanly as in guide book as 5a HVS now I find out all that effort was for VS!
Claire Molloy - TR - 15/May/11 with Noelle

NoelleG - TR - 15/May/11 with Claire Molloy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11

charley - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Ange, Steve, Kev

Charley's lead after Kev backed off and I didn't like the look of it on lead either. Still not sure what the hell I pulled up on even now!!!
valentinesbabe - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe, Steven Fletcher

Tithe Technique - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Steve Fletcher, Angela Paul, Charley Fell

chumleywarner - TR O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Angela Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Joe Costello - Solo O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Ellie, Matt

Marq - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Steve Mount

mattwyles1 - Solo - 02/Oct/10 with Ellie, Joe

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Chris Braine

LivinITlarge - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Joe

edd rab - Solo rpt - 24/Jun/10

peteJ23 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Scruffster

Birdo - Solo O/S - 19/Jun/10

Michelle Piper - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/10 with Aldred Durham

pboniface - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Aldred Durham

aldred - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Michelle, peter boniface

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/May/10

jmjw - Lead RP - 09/May/10 with Bob B

a weird route, gear is difficult to place and not great, then a precarious and committing move which felt more like 5b
Pilch - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Graham

mic_b - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/10

Jonathan Hall - Solo - 22/Sep/09

cooper leek - 2nd RP - 19/Sep/09 with donk

Used arete on the right at the top. Bit blinkered but nice route.
donkster - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with ben, DaveNW

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/09

Goose4 - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/09 with John Buckle

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

boulderholder - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Paul Taylor

paul76 - 2nd - 18/Apr/09 with Phil Mews

PanzerHanzler - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/09 with David Rafe

Budge - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Mike Oates, Martin Gillie

practicalcat - 2nd - 21/Mar/09 with Adam Carless

Not sure the grade here is right - definitely a couple of technical grades and a subjective grade harder than Nelson's Nemesis. The gear is the break is fine (takes a little fiddling).
adam carless - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/09 with practicalcat

Benrj - Solo - 18/Mar/09 with jay mowat

Jeronimo - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/09 with Ben Johnson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2009

tommo1664 - 29/Dec/08

adam carless - Solo O/S - 10/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/08

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/08

jimsrankin - Lead O/S - Apr/08 with Mel

john lynch - Lead - 09/Mar/08 with rich armour, Bo Robertson

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/08

Jethro - Lead - Jan/08 with Adam Lindley

atom - Lead - Jan/08 with Lee Parker

gibbo38 - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with gibbo21

gibbo21 - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with paul

naughtybadboy - Lead - 04/Nov/07

popebenedictus - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Edd Rab

edd rab - Solo O/S - 03/Nov/07

Pythonist - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/07

Peakology - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/07 with cat

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Dom

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Ruthy

hated it!
Col Allott - Lead - 15/Apr/07 with Alex Sturrock

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/07

chiverstom - Solo O/S - 01/Nov/06 with Dave Turner

mje1398 - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06 with John M + Dom

Maciek - Lead RP - Sep/06 with Andy C.

Hidden - Solo - 10/Jul/06

Second trad lead, first VS!
Julia Chatterton - Lead - 17/Jun/06 with Adam and Will

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 27/Apr/06 with Nicola Pettit

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/06 with Little Old Lady

tatz45 - Lead O/S - Feb/06 with Mina Wujastyk

John Lisle - 2006

liamnkaz - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/05 with Richard L

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/05

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/05 with Jaime

PenJD - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/05 with Lianna Scholes

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/05

sam coward - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tim

jl - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/04 with Cara

Pelleas - TR - Oct/04

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/04 with SUMC

mooseloose - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Geoff

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/May/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/02

rocktigger - Lead O/S - Jun/99 with Ben

Rampikino - TR - 28/Apr/98

tlr - Solo - 05/May/96 with Pete D

BigHairyIan - 2nd O/S - 03/May/93 with Stuart Murray

Roget - Solo rpt - 01/Feb/92

Roget - 2nd O/S - May/89 with jim

Iain Thow - Lead - 11/Oct/87 with Simon Lee

1980's
CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 1980

Mark Kemball - Solo - 26/Nov/78

RichardMc - Solo - 09/Jun/77

mikej - Solo - 17/Apr/71 with E

At the end of a soloing marathon I was joined on Kismet buttress by Ernie who pointed me up this route of his. It was to be described in the forthcoming Chatsworth Area gritstone guide.
mikej - Solo - 19/Aug/68 with Ernie Marshall

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Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS1 of 28
easy HVS19 of 28
hard VS3 of 28
VS5 of 28
easy VS0 of 28
hard HS0 of 28
HS0 of 28
easy HS0 of 28
hard 5a0 of 29
5a0 of 29
easy 5a17 of 29
hard 4c7 of 29
4c5 of 29
easy 4c0 of 29
hard 4b0 of 29
4b0 of 29
easy 4b0 of 29
3 Stars0 of 23
2 Stars0 of 23
1 Star9 of 23
0 Stars13 of 23
Bag of .....1 of 23
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Style of ascent

Soloed27 of 132 (20.5%)
Lead64 of 132 (48.5%)
Followed27 of 132 (20.5%)
Toproped9 of 132 (6.8%)
Bouldered1 of 132 (0.8%)
Unknown4 of 132 (3.0%)

'Climbed'46 of 132 (34.8%)
clean O/S72 of 132 (54.5%)
clean β2 of 132 (1.5%)
clean rpt4 of 132 (3.0%)
clean RP3 of 132 (2.3%)
dogged4 of 132 (3.0%)
dnf1 of 132 (0.8%)