Interesting and varied climbing. Start by making an awkward and delicate move onto the first break and gain small positive holds on the main wall. Use these carefully to reach the welcome juggy break below the overhang. Make a hard steep overhanging move to gain the ledge above and finish up the jamming crack. A Bowles Classic!

M Boysen 1960

Ticklists: Southern Sandstone apprenticeship., Tonbridge School Sandstone Graded List.

SJPowderham1 27/Oct Lead O/S
seanbastard 29/Aug TR O/S
Hidden 08/Aug TR RP
Hidden 01/Aug TR dog
Hidden 04/Jul TR dog
jsmcfarland 18/Jun TR dog

2x attempts at this, first try ended too pumped to attempt to get up the roof, second with heelhook over the lip but then far too pumped to make the mantle (+ anchor off to the side...freaky). Reckon it will go next time. Thumbs are key on the sidepull pinch holds

with Alan
Ian Bell 10/May TR dnf

Not this time, did the Slab but fell off going for the crack above.

with Tania T
Guy Atkinson 14/Apr TR dnf

failed yet again..

with Adrian
maybe_si 20/Mar TR RP
ASchwirtz 22/Feb TR RP

2nd go

with Russ
Russtygibbons 22/Feb TR dnf
with Ant
Hidden 17/Feb TR RP
Laramadness 05/Oct/14 TR O/S
with Carrie, Mike F
Guy Atkinson 20/Sep/14 TR dnf


pete_fewings 14/Sep/14 TR O/S
daviesp2 16/Aug/14 TR dnf

got to first break

theandthem 01/Jul/14 TR β


loplop 21/Jun/14 TR dog
with Laura, Adrian, Jim
SandyB 14/May/14 -
CurlyStevo 23/Apr/14 TR dnf

Got all the way to the heel hook move but with rests after each major section, didn't realise till later you need to get your knee in the niche. Might actually work all the moves/sections next time probably still a way off doing it.

kp64zl ?/Apr/14 TR dnf
matt.jj 08/Mar/14 TR dnf
with Dave Mahon
Penfold Merton ??/2014 TR dog
Hidden 10/Oct/13 TR β
duncandarnell 28/Aug/13 TR
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Eoinparker 27/Jun/13 TR dog
Guy Atkinson 25/Jun/13 TR dnf

Tried it twice as it was getting dark, first time got my leg over the bulge but couldn't do more, second time couldn't get established in the crack after the bulge. Know i can do it though.

with Zara
Hidden 15/Jun/13 TR
lukehodson 01/Jun/13 TR rpt
with Steve, Mel, Charlotte
HassenBali 06/May/13 TR dnf
mrteale ?/May/13 TR
Steve Dunton ??/2013 -
Ewan Russell 04/Sep/12 TR O/S
with Mike(Dad)
cameronmcloughlin 07/Aug/12 TR rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/12 TR
Stewart Armstrong 28/Jul/12 TR dnf

got very close to doing the first difficult bit

adam 24 28/Jul/12 TR O/S
grakgrak 25/Jul/12 TR dog
with duncan
Jevans ?/Jul/12 TR RP
BarefootCeds 26/Jun/12 TR dnf

Very awkward to put that knee in the niche... Good core exercise ! Managed it but then was too knackered for the final move... Pleasant route.

with Dave Mahon
elyben 24/May/12 TR RP
Graham C 13/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Derek
tunaficiency 08/Apr/12 TR β
with kate surry
matt.jj 27/Mar/12 TR dnf
IanMulvany 26/Feb/12 TR β
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd RP
Hidden 14/Jan/12 TR dnf
Cat G ??/2012 TR
Hidden ??/2012 -
whitehouse_rhys ??/2012 TR
Hidden 27/Nov/11 TR dnf
Ian Bell 26/Nov/11 TR dog

Excellent. nice contrast between the delicate bottom and thuggy top.

with Tania T
hailtryfan ?/Nov/11 TR rpt
kiks 01/Oct/11 TR O/S
Henry.Todman ?/Sep/11 TR RP
Jon Read 02/Jul/11 TR
with Matt Gallagher
Jon Read 02/Jul/11 TR
with Matt Gallagher
patsaunders ?/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 21/Jun/11 TR dog
wi11 06/Jun/11 TR β
with Marcus, Nat
birchboy13 04/Jun/11 TR
Hidden 29/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 22/May/11 TR
Ceridwen 15/May/11 TR dnf

got to the first over hang, and nearly got over it, but not quite. good route, worth another try or ten!

finchelata 06/May/11 TR rpt

Attempted a couple of years ago - couldn't get established in the crack. Got it first go this time. Jam.

with Mark
Graham C 19/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Nick susx
Hidden 17/Apr/11 -
Hidden 17/Apr/11 TR dog
dan gibson 10/Apr/11 TR rpt
with anna barnes
barfani chita 09/Apr/11 TR dnf
with Saurus
Guy Atkinson 09/Apr/11 TR dnf

only had one go on it, up for trying again

with Dick, Nick Briggs
Hidden 03/Apr/11 TR
steve2006 02/Apr/11 TR O/S

I'm in shock that I climbed this clean! i've done less than handful of 6a before and this is by far the most interesting. Just be BOLD, ignore you inner thoughts, and flow up it. technical start, leading into solid juggy overhang with a lovely thank-god hand jam crack finish. looking back I just might have been lucky!

elbeanio 02/Apr/11 TR
feilx 27/Mar/11 TR O/S
with Heather
barfani chita 13/Mar/11 TR dnf
with Saurus
climber46 ??/2011 -
JIMJIM ??/2011 TR
with Tex
keith leonard ??/2011 -
james.pilbeam ??/2011 -
michaelcolledge ??/2011 TR β
timmyhobby ??/2011 TR
Radical-G 17/Oct/10 TR RP
Graham C 02/Sep/10 TR rpt

easy when you know how!

with Derek
cayteye 03/Aug/10 TR dnf
with Kevin Faux
RFWilkie 03/Aug/10 TR rpt
Kevster 03/Aug/10 TR
lukehodson 01/Aug/10 TR rpt
Danny Crump 26/Jul/10 TR dnf
dan gibson 24/May/10 TR rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR dog
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/10 TR dnf
davidrblakeman 13/Apr/10 TR rpt
Simon Bowyer 11/Apr/10 TR dnf
with Nik
J.Wells ?/Apr/10 TR O/S

Absolute battle, but great fun.

sachichas ??/2010 TR RP
Graham C 19/Sep/09 TR rpt
with Scott F
dickie01 18/Aug/09 TR

Love the Hate

Graham C 06/Jun/09 TR rpt

With Gresham watching to add a little pressure!

Monk 06/Jun/09 TR O/S
Listy 01/May/09 TR RP
with Miles Lister
Kyle Rance 26/Apr/09 TR
with Sine Rance
troutbeck 29/Mar/09 TR dnf
with J.G.
riddle 22/Mar/09 TR O/S
with Yasmina
mr_cf 15/Mar/09 TR RP

Lovely side pull route, with nasty over hanging rockover/mantel finish

with Ian ...
Threesixzero ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
olipab121 ??/2009 -
davidrblakeman ??/2009 -
davebowes ??/2009 -
Graham C 19/Oct/08 TR β

At bloody last. Have been trying this for ages, finaly did it clean.

Marti999 26/Sep/08 TR RP
lukehodson 12/Sep/08 TR

awesome route. got it 2nd go

Al Franks 16/Aug/08 TR dnf
with Luke and Nicki
Alasdair88 16/Aug/08 TR dnf
with Luke hodson
hailtryfan ?/Jun/08 TR RP
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
Graham C 21/May/08 TR dog

project (and has been for ages)

Hidden 16/Feb/08 -
sparkass ?/Feb/08 TR RP

2nd attempt

with Ian Stronghill and Lewis Allan
alexharv3y 06/Jan/08 TR dnf
strapless ??/2008 -
jimmay ??/2008 TR O/S
mrthehud ??/2008 TR
with Tom Hudson
Nick F Smith ?/Oct/07 TR O/S
with Andy
Piers Harley 30/Sep/07 -
Mark Riley 18/Aug/07 TR O/S
with Hely
Hidden 16/Jul/07 TR RP
Matt Tranter 12/Jun/07 TR
with Zelda Greyling
hal 02/Jun/07 TR RP

Loved it!

with Bernard Lam
Hidden ?/Mar/07 TR
Marcus ??/2007 TR

Have climbed this about 20 times or so but the last occasion was about 30 years ago. The first bit felt harder but the wall above didn't seem so thin (felt like there was a couple of extra holds) and the top felt much easier. Having chalk and sticky boots probaby helps. Funny that I seemed to do it facing in the opposite direction to how I recollected doing it, which threw me a bit. Remember Gordon deLacey used to solo it - which has always impressed me.

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Kyuzo ??/2007 -
Nathan Kemp ??/2007 TR
Hidden ??/2007 -
themidnightninja ??/2007 TR
jimjimmyjimjim 09/Sep/06 TR dog
OffshoreAndy 31/Aug/06 TR
Hidden 20/Aug/06 TR dog
Hidden 17/Aug/06 TR O/S
tonanf ?/Aug/06 TR

learned a lot here

Rob Laird 16/Jul/06 TR dog
dan gibson 07/May/06 TR
with AJ
Brown ?/Sep/05 TR
Rokmunky ??/2005 TR
Hidden ??/2004 TR RP
Rob Davies ?/Aug/02 TR dnf
Hidden ?/Jun/00 TR
Lepista 13/Feb/00 TR

got to overhang...!

Jon Read ??/2000 TR
with Matt Gallagher
Hidden ??/2000 TR
ellie macpherson 30/Jun/99 TR
with Ian Holmes
pc1983 ?/Apr/99 TR
Hidden 19/May/98 TR RP
Hidden ??/1998 TR rpt
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1995 TR RP
andy gittins ??/1990 -
craig h ??/1988 TR O/S
with Luke Steer
Gordon Stainforth 07/Aug/83 TR


Gordon Stainforth 24/Jul/83 TR

Technically the hardest thing I've ever done.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Richard Justice, Rob Laird, serby, Emma Reynolds, Hidden, BarefootCeds, Matt250, Alex Munnery, cayteye, Hidden, Hidden, zara bloomfield
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