Rockfax Description
The superb leaning crack is quite steady up to two-thirds height, and then it starts to turn mean. Long reaches, thin jams and a tricky exit all add up to make an arduous but high-quality outing. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown (1 pt) 1957. FFA. Jim Campbell 1967

Ticklists: Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Cracks And Corners To Greatness.

jamesturnbull 03/Aug Lead

"The problem with crack is its so moreish!"

heywoodj 03/Aug 2nd dog
soph 05/Jun Lead RP
with Tony Stone
Hidden 22/Sep/14 2nd dog
Rachel Slater 18/Sep/14 2nd dog

Hmmm... fun!

tim newton 18/Sep/14 Lead dog
Misha 19/Jun/14 Lead dog

This was Eszter's idea and I went along with it as wanted to find out if I'd be able to do it clean this time. Should have remembered that summer grit = midges! It turned out to be a midgefest from hell! Warm, humid, no wind, lots of vegetation, should have known better!!! Climbing was fine actually and belaying was just about bearable but unpleasant, even with a spare top covering the head, neck and most of the face! As for the route... Went up on Eszter's gear to the crux, a nice enough E1 to that point. The crux completely threw me again. Must have had 6 or 7 goes before getting the sequence right. Annoyingly, when I finally managed it, it felt pretty straightforward. Same hand sequence as last time except using a jam rather than a pinch R but the real issue was getting the feet high enough to get the finger jam in the short horizontal bit of the crack and then higher again to get the good jam. The finishing jamming section was quite pleasant. Ran away to Stoney afterwards as the midges were getting worse.

with Eszter
phil64 16/May/14 2nd O/S

with Robin and Sheila

Andy Peak 1 22/Aug/13 Lead dog

Super dooper hard :-)

with Tom Martin
andi turner ??/2013 -
masa-alpin 28/Jul/12 Lead dog

Cleaned the last holds from the top as suggested by the current definitive guidebook. I fell off and dogged over a dozen, maybe 20, times. But surprisingly I finally made to the top in my last attempt! Extremely satisfying and memorable experience! I haven't found a knee-bar - however, for me the section before was the definite crux.

with Simon P
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead rpt
Misha 21/May/11 Lead dog

A classic grit bruiser. Enjoyable climbing on hidden holds up to the ledge. We all thought the crux was getting to the finishing jams. Had to have three goes at it, starting from the ledge each time. The key for me was getting the hand sequence right: good hold on arete L, pinch R, crimp L, pull up to jam R. The actual jamming wasn't too hard but felt hard after doing the crux! Brian and Ian both struggled so can't have been easy...

with Ian W, Brian
thomasadixon 02/May/11 Lead dog

Clearly need to learn to fist jam... Bottom section a path compared to the top.

with Mike
IAmAStone 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Charlie Jefferson
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
walts4 ??/2011 -
nickcanute ?/Sep/10 Lead

nice jamming route, just get your hands right way round.. loads of red herring holds chalked either side of crack, but each to their own.

with alan taylor
jamesturnbull ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with aiden
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead G/U
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
dan gibson 17/Oct/09 Lead RP
with michael porter
gordonday 13/Sep/09 TR dog
with clive
Boy ?/Sep/09 -
with Ted Kingsnorth
Actionflack ?/Sep/09 TR
craig d 29/Aug/09 Lead dog

What a battle. Was nearly sick on top. Will return to lead clean. Brilliant

with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 27/May/09 Lead dog
OffshoreAndy 24/May/08 Lead dog

did the crux then to the top after fraiser backed off it.

with Works Frasier
Nicos 09/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with rich mansfield
Hidden ?/Nov/07 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 29/Apr/07 Lead
with John
shark 04/Nov/06 Lead O/S

An exhausting fight as the flare and crack was wet

with Rayash
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden 18/Jul/00 -
Rich Kirby 19/May/99 Lead dog
with Hugh
ste_d 12/Jul/98 Lead dog
with mik
mikedelderfield 12/Jul/98 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 08/Aug/97 Lead RP
with James Tracey
sadams 13/May/97 Lead dnf
with Hugh Cottom
Rich Kirby ??/1997 Lead


timbanton ?/May/96 -
Hidden 22/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/95 -
Ovenpaa ?/May/93 Lead
NickJH ?/Apr/91 2nd dog
with N Hancock
Hidden ??/1989 -
charlesmfrench 09/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ??/1985 2nd dnf

Looked very grim. Fortunately Boris couldn't do it, so I didn't have to have a try.

William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Ian Timm
Hidden ?/May/83 Lead rpt
stp 20/Mar/83 Lead rpt

Fell off a few times at the top. Lowered to ground. Done when this was given E2. Thrutchy finish more like awkward 5c.

petemeads ??/1978 Lead

The top is indeed hard...

clanger ??/1972 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JamieSparkes, Hidden, seankenny, Dan Geh, Peakpdr, Hidden, Peakology, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set