Malaga / El Chorro > Desplomilandia >
 
El chupacabras** 7a+

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[Climber on El chupacabras, 2 kb]A dramatic pitch which makes up for its lack of length with some fine moves. Go easy with the large fragile flake, in fact give it a miss altogether! © ROCKFAX

Photo: Climber on El chupacabras © ANC
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Failed the o/so because the stupid rock fax book said to avoid the flake that is solid in fact! Found it ok using the flake .. Amazing moves with no actual crux!
justin c - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/14

1st RP. Rockfax put me off going for the flake on onsight so tried to the left which was harder. Used flake second go and went ok.
R2B - Lead RP - 10/May/14 with Charlotte

Brian Rodgers - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14 with Mike Todd

toddm - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14 with Brian Rodgers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

First day, bees nest in neighbouring route was a bit offputting on the redpoint!
drysori - Lead dog - Apr/14

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jan/14

James Marshall - Lead β - 22/Dec/13 with rich hard rock

Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Nov/13

Danny Crump - 2nd - 17/Oct/13 with Neil Kerr, Martin Bagshaw

Martin Bagshaw - TR dog - 17/Oct/13 with Neil Kerr, Danny Crump

3 Names - Lead β - 26/Dec/12 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Dec/12

davidliu - Lead β - 02/Nov/12 with Ed Jenner

tedj234 - Lead β - 02/Nov/12 with davidliu

Far easier than I recall from quick play last year. One hard technical traverse into the cave then pretty standard stuff to the top with good crimps.
mr_nsglover - Lead β - 27/Oct/12 with adam potter

Soft. Good. Flake probably ok but i would be careful with it.
felixthelion - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/12 with T. Brookes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/12

Johann - 2012

First go after flash attempt, three stars (soft)
ANC - Lead RP - 08/Dec/11 with Johann Urbano, Rob Humphries

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/11

Very powerful climbing with a technical traverse, fun. Don't worry about the flake, it's solid.
mr_nsglover - Lead dog - 03/Oct/11

tomhull - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11 with rin

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/10 with Roy Thomas

markalmack - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/10 with gregg capon

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Feb/10

First 7a+ onsight felt more like 7a tho
ashknot - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/10 with Hungarian Eva

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/09

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - Dec/09 with Stephen

The flake feels fine to me!
skygodley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09

Toby Dunn - Dec/08 with simon richardson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/05

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard 7b0 of 13
7b0 of 13
easy 7b1 of 13
hard 7a+0 of 13
7a+5 of 13
easy 7a+2 of 13
hard 7a5 of 13
7a0 of 13
easy 7a0 of 13
3 Stars5 of 11
2 Stars6 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead29 of 34 (85.3%)
Followed2 of 34 (5.9%)
Toproped1 of 34 (2.9%)
Unknown2 of 34 (5.9%)

'Climbed'4 of 34 (11.8%)
clean O/S14 of 34 (41.2%)
clean β5 of 34 (14.7%)
clean rpt1 of 34 (2.9%)
clean RP5 of 34 (14.7%)
dogged5 of 34 (14.7%)