Rockfax Description
A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting all the same. Climb the greasy chimney and monkey along the break to the arete. Follow this with crucial moves on the left side (the very tall can teeter up the front) to reach a fat fluting and the final blank wall with its superb hidden jug. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Sutton 1951. Climbed and claimed again by Tom Proctor 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies..

Adam Willison 01/May Lead O/S

First E3 5C

tom russell 23/Apr Lead β
with mike, Dunc Campbell, Brewer Rob
mshorter 23/Apr Lead O/S
with tom, dunc
dominic lee 21/Apr Lead
with daniel lee
nick ferro 03/Apr 2nd O/S

Went up the slab, long reach with left hand to crimp.

with Tim Bee
Longsufferingropeholder 03/Apr Lead G/U

Retro-flash, if that's a thing. Didn't see a way on the left so went onto the slab. Not tall enough to do it the tall way but managed a grim, smeary, crimpy, cranky, committing heave up the front. Nice to get clean after backing off years ago.

Hidden 25/Mar Lead O/S
ferdia 19/Mar 2nd
with Andy
Andy Moles 19/Mar Lead O/S
with Ferdia
fuzzysheep01 07/Nov/15 2nd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 07/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Despite heavy rain in the morning the route was dry by the time we did it. Committing moves on the LH side of the arête for the crux but superb.

with Joe Norris
Brown 25/Oct/15 2nd
with Tom R, Tim
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Fat Boy
bigdrew 03/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Very cool short arÍte, Good gear

steveb2006 30/May/15 Lead

Bit sketchy on the crux

with Mick Fowler
adam 24 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Crux move felt really hard, was mm from falling. I definitely couldn't reach through to the break so did a desperate palming / smearing combo, this just allowed me to reach the razor crimp with my right hand.

Stuart Johnston 03/May/15 2nd O/S

Hard move leaving the ledge on the slab

theomoore 11/Jan/15 Lead O/S

hard and scary - didn't take enough gear. hard e3!

robertmctague 11/Jan/15 Lead β

Hard! I reckon 6a going up the face.

Matt Cooke 02/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Brannock 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S

First natural gritstone e3, crux done tall person way, just about tall enough. Quality route.

ashtond6 03/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Slab crux seemed 6a and bold so backed off

Mark Grist 03/May/14 Lead dnf

Fell trying to do right hand stretch on the slab in hot conditions. Took a decent sized but clean fall. Have to try again another day.

with Lee Hamilton
thrutch 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Sven
Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead
TonyF ??/2014 -
Ethan 04/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Don Walker
Coel Hellier 29/Sep/13 Lead
dominic lee 28/Sep/13 Lead
with daniel lee
DaveFidler 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dad
TonyF 10/Aug/13 2nd
with David
Si dH 20/Apr/13 2nd RP

Went to lead. Stayed left of the arete. Fell off the crux first time, pulled he ropes adn tried ground up, did the crux but then fell off just above. Neil then led it and I seconded.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 17/Apr/13 2nd
Alex@home 07/Feb/13 Lead O/S

had previously backed off and downclimbed from before crux so think i can still claim onsight. did it tall way - just

with The Doctor
w.pettet-smith ?/Nov/12 2nd

with escape combo as per rockfax topo. great footholds on crux! not easy though

with ben
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

My 1st E3 lead, sweet! Ideal for a 1st E3 with good pro and 3 decent rests too, what more could you ask for?

with Matt
Hidden 23/May/12 Lead
morganator 23/May/12 2nd
tom.e 01/Apr/12 Lead β
Graham C 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 21/Mar/12 Lead β
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
phil64 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with nick gillett
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 2nd
drysori 02/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't reach the hold doing the crux the tall way, and didn't fancy the alternative.

with Jon L
msoldn 24/Sep/11 2nd RP

Tried leading it after Pete backed off crux. Had several attempts either side of arete and almost had it, but head wasn't committing to final move on round sloper. So eventually top roped it to get gear back and this time got it first go, but still a huge struggle.

with Pete Millner
Chris_barr 21/Sep/11 2nd dog

Had to weight Rope to get walked cam.

Misha 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A great route, nicely sustained (though technical rather than physical) and managed to fee a bit scary even though there isn't that much hard climbing above gear. Did the version taking the LHS of the arete on crimps and slopers. Fantastic hidden jug at the top.

with Tom R
Tom Redmond 23/Jul/11 2nd
steveb2006 22/Jul/11 Lead
with David Andrew
bigdrew 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 09/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Colin Struthers
Mr Sparkle 31/May/11 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 31/May/11 Lead

One fall after crux - very annoyed. Foot popped...

Chad123 21/May/11 Lead RP

Bit of a disappointing effort as tried the long reach slab way loads with no luck then cheated and put a cam above the hard bit, then cruised the left arete way (should have gone that way first). Great climb with lots of good climbing, loved the hidden jug at the top! Very windy too which didn't help....

with Jo, Emily
akhughes 04/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead rpt
spidey 02/Apr/11 Lead


with Jimmy
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S

Deserves its three stars.

with Richard B, Andy S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 20/Oct/10 2nd dog
hamish2016 20/Oct/10 Lead
Andrew Barker 06/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Entertaining, I nearly blew the crux by not thinking about it and just going for it up the left-hand side of the arete. A consistently interesting route with a couple of good rests to help you along the way.

with Si
Dave Foster 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Has pretty much everything: chimney, traverse, mantel, smeary slopey layback arete, crimps, hand jams, nubbins and the need for faith in hidden jug. Brilliant.

with Andy
steveb2006 06/Sep/10 Lead
with Nikki Hawkins
highlux ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Uber classic! Did on a slimy hot day. Roll on cooler weather!

jamiev 04/Jul/10 2nd β
with Adrian Berry
nacnud 05/May/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 05/May/10 2nd O/S
with Duncan
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/10 2nd
with Rich Cross
Hidden 06/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
bigie bob 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
dan gibson 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead dnf
steveb2006 22/Apr/09 2nd

Roland can climb the long reach way bit I am forced round to the hard moves on L of arete

with Roland Smith
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead
dominic lee 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
Hidden 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/08 2nd dog
timbanton ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -

Completely riduculous that Sutton climbed this as we now know it, it would have been the hardest and the most lauded route on grit. Sutton obviously traversed out much higher than Proctor!

ASchwirtz 05/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Dave Bond 07/Jul/07 Lead β
with Simon Wren
Toby Dunn 25/Mar/07 2nd
with JulesV
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Jul/06 2nd dog
Ram MkiV ?/Jul/06 Lead dnf

month a guess. went to do this after climbing on limestone earlier in the day. initially tried to limb LH side of arete but far too warm for such slopers so attempted the long man's reaching method which I duely fell off.

with Alex
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/05 2nd β
Iggy_B 27/May/05 Lead O/S
with Simon Shaw
Hidden 06/May/05 Lead β
Brian Rodgers ?/Aug/04 Lead rpt
mikeski ?/Aug/04 2nd
dominic lee 01/May/04 Lead rpt
with daniel lee
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd
lx ?/Aug/02 Lead


PaulTanton 31/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
steveb2006 24/Jul/01 Lead
with Roland Smith
goi.ashmore 22/Apr/00 Lead O/S

In the rain

with Roy Thomas
tlr ??/2000 Lead
Steve Bell 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
steveb2006 19/Sep/98 Lead
with Simon Mee
Hidden 29/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/98 Lead
Hidden 15/Feb/98 Lead rpt
sadams 19/Oct/97 Lead
with John Fletcher
steveb2006 05/Jun/97 2nd
with Neville Contractor
Roget 14/May/97 Lead rpt

led on right, more like E4 6a, thin and scary.

with jon
Hidden 19/Apr/97 AltLd rpt
ste_d 10/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 10/Mar/97 2nd O/S
steveb2006 28/Apr/96 Lead

A bat in the crack on the ledge provides a brief diversion before making teh scary crux moves round to left and up arete.

with Duncan Stewart
Hidden 30/Mar/96 Lead rpt
Glenn Sutcliffe 30/Mar/96 2nd
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Oct/92 Lead O/S
with DWilliams, N Smart
steveb2006 23/Aug/92 Lead
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/92 2nd
with Kim Greenald
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Jun/92 2nd
Roget 01/Jun/91 Lead rpt

left side

with jon
Roget 17/Jun/90 TR O/S

top rope on left, Jim then attempted leading and had to call at AnE on way home

with jim
Bruce Kerr 24/Mar/90 2nd
with Perric Crellin
Chris Ellis 10/Mar/90 2nd
with Martin Veale
andybirtwistle 16/Apr/89 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1989 Lead O/S

nasty crux for a short arse, perhaps just nasty!

Hidden ??/1989 Lead
steveb2006 02/Oct/88 Lead

Success after prev failure. Hard moves on L side of arete (short persons way). Simon can reach the flake on the front!

with Simon Mee
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 04/Jul/87 2nd
shark 29/Jun/86 2nd
with Dave Marsh
Hidden 21/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 2nd O/S
John Marsland 13/Oct/85 TR
stp 26/Aug/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/85 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 19/Jun/84 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 08/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
keefe 05/Mar/83 -
jonathan shepherd ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/80 2nd
KRB 09/Sep/79 Lead O/S

Black cord on my moac on the footledge and a couple of good fingery moves make this a brilliant memory.

with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 09/Sep/79 2nd O/S

Excellent route,at the limit of my ability,managed it ok though,couldn`t reach the small flake,so had to make hard moves on the LHside.Top lead Kev.

Mike Owen 15/Apr/79 -
with Keith Robertson
steve L 17/Sep/77 2nd β
with sharpie
petemeads ??/1975 2nd

Followed John on the 'modern' first ascent (on the left of the arete) as Tom's stretch was just ridiculous. Lead it myself a couple of years later, fairly straightforward & safe.

with John Allen
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 43
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set