Rockfax Description
A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting enough. Climb the greasy chimney and monkey along the break to the arete. Follow this with crucial moves on the left side (the very tall can teeter up the front) to reach a fat fluting and the final blank wall with its superb hidden jug. © Rockfax
FA. Geoff Sutton 1951. Climbed and claimed again by Tom Proctor 1971.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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dynoseb | 1 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Brilliant. I ended up doing the stretch on the slab to the crimp once round on the arete which was at the limit of my span really, Felt too hot to come round on the left side then but used the fat runnel on the left at the top. Can confirm there are still about 7 bats living in the flake on the arete so be careful of them, they\'re pretty friendly and cool to look at, a nice distraction from the absorbing climbing to come. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant. I ended up doing the stretch on the slab to the crimp once round on the arete which was at the limit of my span really, Felt too hot to come round on the left side then but used the fat runnel on the left at the top. Can confirm there are still about 7 bats living in the flake on the arete so be careful of them, they're pretty friendly and cool to look at, a nice distraction from the absorbing climbing to come. |
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robert-hutton | 23 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Please be careful of the colony of bats in the thin crackline after the move onto the arete. Cute. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Please be careful of the colony of bats in the thin crackline after the move onto the arete. Cute. |
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north country boy | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome Route, very easy for grade, Bomber gear and struggle to see why it gets E3 rather than E2? No harder than Fern Hill! Reach from the ledge is committing though.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome Route, very easy for grade, Bomber gear and struggle to see why it gets E3 rather than E2? No harder than Fern Hill! Reach from the ledge is committing though.... |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: "crucial moves on the left-hand side" can be replaced by "desperate slapping on the holdless arete moves" ;) Eeek! | βeta? | |
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βeta: "crucial moves on the left-hand side" can be replaced by "desperate slapping on the holdless arete moves" ;) Eeek! |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)