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Boot Hill*** E3 5c

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[tom with thanks to myhill, 2 kb]18m. A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting. Climb Weston's Chimney then swing along the break to the arete. Follow this with testing moves on the left-hand side (the very tall can stretch up the front - E2) to reach a fat fluting and the final wall with its superb hidden jug. © ROCKFAX
FA. Geoff Sutton 1951. Climbed and claimed again by Tom Proctor 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies..

Photo: tom with thanks to myhill © al evans
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 130 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

Slab crux seemed 6a and bold so backed off
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/14

Fell trying to do right hand stretch on the slab in hot conditions. Took a decent sized but clean fall. Have to try again another day.
The Grist - Lead dnf - 03/May/14 with Lee Hamilton

thrutch - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/14 with Sven

Jordan - Lead - 22/Feb/14 with Naomi Buys

TonyF - 2014

Ethan - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/13 with Don Walker

Coel Hellier - Lead - 29/Sep/13

dominic lee - Lead - 28/Sep/13 with daniel lee

DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

Went to lead. Stayed left of the arete. Fell off the crux first time, pulled he ropes adn tried ground up, did the crux but then fell off just above. Neil then led it and I seconded.
Si dH - 2nd RP - 20/Apr/13 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/13

had previously backed off and downclimbed from before crux so think i can still claim onsight. did it tall way - just
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/13 with The Doctor

with escape combo as per rockfax topo. great footholds on crux! not easy though
w.pettet-smith - 2nd - Nov/12 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12

My 1st E3 lead, sweet! Ideal for a 1st E3 with good pro and 3 decent rests too, what more could you ask for?
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/12

tom.e - Lead β - 01/Apr/12 with Luke Porter

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Marti

Marti999 - Lead β - 21/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Tony Kartawick - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead - 2012

phil64 - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/11 with nick gillett

Dirk Uhlig - 2nd - 04/Oct/11

Couldn't reach the hold doing the crux the tall way, and didn't fancy the alternative.
drysori - Lead dnf - 02/Oct/11 with Jon L

Tried leading it after Pete backed off crux. Had several attempts either side of arete and almost had it, but head wasn't committing to final move on round sloper. So eventually top roped it to get gear back and this time got it first go, but still a huge struggle.
msoldn - 2nd RP - 24/Sep/11 with Pete Millner

Had to weight Rope to get walked cam.
Chris_barr - 2nd dog - 21/Sep/11

A great route, nicely sustained (though technical rather than physical) and managed to fee a bit scary even though there isn't that much hard climbing above gear. Did the version taking the LHS of the arete on crimps and slopers. Fantastic hidden jug at the top.
Misha - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Tom R

Tom Redmond - 2nd - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/11

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Ian Milward

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Andrea Nicholson

harold walmsley - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Colin Struthers

Mr Sparkle - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11 with Mike Hayes

One fall after crux - very annoyed. Foot popped...
wolverine - Lead - 31/May/11 with Matt Sparkes

Bit of a disappointing effort as tried the long reach slab way loads with no luck then cheated and put a cam above the hard bit, then cruised the left arete way (should have gone that way first). Great climb with lots of good climbing, loved the hidden jug at the top! Very windy too which didn't help....
Chad123 - Lead RP - 21/May/11 with Jo, Emily

akhughes - Lead O/S - 04/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

brilliant
spidey - Lead - 02/Apr/11 with Jimmy

Deserves its three stars.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2011 with Richard B, Andy S

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/10

Entertaining, I nearly blew the crux by not thinking about it and just going for it up the left-hand side of the arete. A consistently interesting route with a couple of good rests to help you along the way.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/10 with Si

Has pretty much everything: chimney, traverse, mantel, smeary slopey layback arete, crimps, hand jams, nubbins and the need for faith in hidden jug. Brilliant.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/10

Uber classic! Did on a slimy hot day. Roll on cooler weather!
highlux - Lead O/S - Aug/10

jamiev - 2nd β - 04/Jul/10 with Adrian Berry

nacnud - Lead O/S - 05/May/10 with Natalie Tanzer

natalietanzer - 2nd O/S - 05/May/10 with Duncan

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 06/Apr/10 with Rich Cross

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with michael porter

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/09

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/09 with daniel lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/08

the juicy dangler - 2nd dog - 13/Oct/08 with sam underhill

Hidden - 2008

Completely riduculous that Sutton climbed this as we now know it, it would have been the hardest and the most lauded route on grit. Sutton obviously traversed out much higher than Proctor!
Al Evans - 2008

ASchwirtz - Lead dnf - 05/Oct/07 with Brian Rogers

Dave Bond - Lead β - 07/Jul/07 with Simon Wren

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 25/Mar/07 with JulesV

Hidden - Lead - 24/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Jul/06

month a guess. went to do this after climbing on limestone earlier in the day. initially tried to limb LH side of arete but far too warm for such slopers so attempted the long man's reaching method which I duely fell off.
Ram MkiV - Lead dnf - Jul/06 with Alex

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/05

Hidden - 2nd β - 31/Aug/05

Iggy_B - Lead O/S - 27/May/05 with Simon Shaw

Hidden - Lead β - 06/May/05

Brian Rodgers - Lead rpt - Aug/04 with Mike Grant

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 01/May/04 with daniel lee

tuftynick - Lead - 2004

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/03

onsight
lx - Lead - Aug/02

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/02 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/01

In the rain
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/00 with Roy Thomas

tlr - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/99

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/98

Rich Kirby - Lead - Mar/98 with Stewart Lancaster

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Feb/98

sadams - Lead - 19/Oct/97 with John Fletcher

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/97

led on right, more like 6a
Roget - Lead rpt - 14/May/97

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/97

ste_d - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/97 with mik

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/97 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/96

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2nd - 30/Mar/96 with Neil Foster

switch - Lead O/S - 1996

NickJH - Lead O/S - Oct/92 with DWilliams, N Smart

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/92

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 20/Jun/92 with Kim Greenald

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 20/Jun/92 with Pete Finklaire

left side
Roget - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/91 with jon

top rope on left
Roget - TR O/S - 17/Jun/90 with jim

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 24/Mar/90 with Perric Crellin

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 10/Mar/90 with Martin Veale

Hidden - Lead - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 02/Oct/88

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/87

shark - 2nd - 29/Jun/86 with Dave Marsh

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/86

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1986

John Marsland - TR - 13/Oct/85

stp - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/85

Hidden - Lead - 08/Jun/85

andy gittins - 1985

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/84

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mark Kemball - Lead - 08/May/83 with Paul Clark

keefe - 05/Mar/83

jonathan shepherd - Lead O/S - Jun/81

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/80

Black cord on my moac on the footledge and a couple of good fingery moves make this a brilliant memory.
KRB - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/79 with Mike Bridges

Excellent route,at the limit of my ability,managed it ok though,couldn`t reach the small flake,so had to make hard moves on the LHside.Top lead Kev.
mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/79 with Kevin Bridges

Mike Owen - 15/Apr/79 with Keith Robertson

Followed John on the 'modern' first ascent (on the left of the arete) as Tom's stretch was just ridiculous. Lead it myself a couple of years later, fairly straightforward & safe.
petemeads - 2nd - 1975 with John Allen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mike mo, Graham Booth, Hidden, ChrisBrooke, robw007, ashtond6, Hidden, Jordanh031, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, rurp, Hidden, tgeh, Chris_barr, Owen W-G, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, drcorbasisgod, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 104
hard E40 of 36
E40 of 36
easy E40 of 36
hard E32 of 36
E328 of 36
easy E34 of 36
hard E22 of 36
E20 of 36
easy E20 of 36
hard 6a0 of 35
6a0 of 35
easy 6a1 of 35
hard 5c23 of 35
5c11 of 35
easy 5c0 of 35
hard 5b0 of 35
5b0 of 35
easy 5b0 of 35
3 Stars33 of 33
2 Stars0 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Lead80 of 130 (61.5%)
Followed36 of 130 (27.7%)
Toproped2 of 130 (1.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 130 (0.8%)
Unknown11 of 130 (8.5%)

'Climbed'56 of 130 (43.1%)
clean O/S43 of 130 (33.1%)
clean β6 of 130 (4.6%)
clean rpt11 of 130 (8.5%)
clean RP3 of 130 (2.3%)
dogged5 of 130 (3.8%)
dnf6 of 130 (4.6%)