Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Oliver*** E4 6a

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20m. One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if it doesn't feel like it. Save it for the lead instead of top-roping it. Follow the elegant groove to the roof, then move left and climb the tricky wall to a break (pumpy-to-place gear and scary position). Step right and stand in the break (baffling for some) then climb the still awkward upper wall. Wonderful. © ROCKFAX
FA. Geoff Birtles 1979

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 51 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hannes B - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/14 with Tom W

Climbed to the first break and got mega pumped putting the kit in so did as any good trad climber would and down-climbed. Went back up again and fell as I had my feet all wrong to get to the crescent hold in the face. Time was running out so I pulled the ropes and had another quick go, this time getting the crescent hold but got scared pushing on to next break, got pumped and dropped off. Abbed for kit. Will be back. Pretty dusty in its lower section but I cleaned a lot off.
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/14 with Stadders

Baffling crux sequence. Fine once you know
Apharri - Lead RP - 16/May/14 with Jim Gayler

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 27/Apr/14 with Ian Milward

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/13

Adam Long - Lead - 24/Aug/13 with Char Williams

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Apr/13

buzby78 - 2nd - 24/Apr/13 with McGeek

took wee while to work out mantle move! ended up doing some bizzar sh*t! Cool route. Bogging backdrop!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Neill Busby

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

not really an attempt but a play on the lower section at the end of the day- when tired ! couldn't really do much of it! Must swap some flab for some muscles.
lithos - 2nd dnf - 23/Jul/12 with pete harris

shame to fall off, would have been the last of the 4 big stoney E4s in one day, next time, also this route would be much eaiser with a good bit of beta
mwatson - Lead dog - 18/Jun/12

2nd try
redjerry - TR RP - Jul/11

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with ben winston, rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/11

Shunt
Brown - TR β - 21/Apr/11 with Solo

phil64 - 2011

Utter class.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Nige

nige - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with richard kirby

Best route at Stoney (from the few I've done)! An awesome sustained middle crux section with a desperate move at the end of it, had to pull reaaally hard to reach that distant hold! 4*
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

came off at long reach. Back on and did it ok.
jamiev - TR dog - 22/Jul/10 with Tom Lewis

dav - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Gill B

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 2010 with aiden

dan gibson - Lead RP - 31/Oct/09 with anna barnes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09

brilliant climbing trickey moves to the legde flake then nearlly blew it on the crux but just managed to hang on there did also climb it on steves pre place gear didnt feel as tho it made to much difference tho as i clip all at gear hight.
andy gravestock - Lead β - 19/Aug/09 with steve alex guy

class route. was steady enough to the hard, easy to mess up, crux - a moment of sketchy time.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with guy, andy, al

Not a flash, but there are no g-up buttons. Foot popped on crux, unfortunate, but you live and learn. Awesome route, never E5 but top end E4.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 19/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Ellis Ash

Boy - Jun/09 with Fiona Fullwood

Al Evans - 2008

JulesV - Lead rpt - 2008

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

sadams - Lead - 14/Aug/01 with Tom Briggs

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/96

Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead - 31/Mar/96 with Neil Foster

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/May/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/93 with colin, baccy

robyn1 - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/90

Billg - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/89 with Jon Barton

shark - Lead - 1988

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 1987

Mike Owen - 04/May/86 with Eric Rooseberry

andy gittins - 1983

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mike mo, MischaHY, drcorbasisgod, Hidden, derekb, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 68
hard E50 of 23
E50 of 23
easy E51 of 23
hard E45 of 23
E416 of 23
easy E41 of 23
hard E30 of 23
E30 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard 6b0 of 25
6b0 of 25
easy 6b1 of 25
hard 6a15 of 25
6a7 of 25
easy 6a1 of 25
hard 5c1 of 25
5c0 of 25
easy 5c0 of 25
3 Stars17 of 20
2 Stars3 of 20
1 Star0 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead28 of 51 (54.9%)
Followed6 of 51 (11.8%)
Toproped3 of 51 (5.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 51 (2.0%)
Unknown13 of 51 (25.5%)

'Climbed'21 of 51 (41.2%)
clean O/S13 of 51 (25.5%)
clean β3 of 51 (5.9%)
clean rpt3 of 51 (5.9%)
clean RP3 of 51 (5.9%)
dogged5 of 51 (9.8%)
dnf3 of 51 (5.9%)