Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Traffic Jam** E5 6b

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[Dan Climbing Cleaning - Traffic Jam - Stoney Middleton
E5 6B** - Was a cool second as well. , 3 kb]A popular training exercise. Straightforward climbing leads to half-height. Either traverse left (skinny fingers help) and climb the thin crack, or go straight up with stretchy moves past crozzles. The direct is harder but has fewer moves. Take care with the runner in the letter-box, it has been known to pull if not placed in the right spot. © ROCKFAX
FA. T.Proctor 3.79. FA. (Jam Sandwich) M.Pretty 20.4.85 Mar/1979

Ticklists: Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Dan Climbing Cleaning - Traffic Jam - Stoney Middleton E5 6B** - Was a cool second as well. © afern
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 62 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Went up, sorted the gear out, spent ages fiddling in the perfect gear into the letter box. Reversed to the deck. Went up, scouted out the moves, fondled the holds. Reversed to deck. Went up again. Went the left way, still felt 6b to me, could just about squeeze a pad into the slot. Hardest moves I've done on gear, on my first day of the trad season, very pleased.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/14

afern - 2nd RP - 30/Jun/14

Hidden - 20/Jun/14

Hidden - TR rpt - 13/Jun/14

6c+ - 7a? Be back for the lead
olly12344 - TR - 13/Jun/14 with Mark R, Seb

training fun with Mark Pretty. Hard crux move on an awkward crimp cross-through!
Nick Sherring - TR - 08/Jun/14 with Paul Borland

Training day.
psborland - TR - 08/Jun/14

On Dans gear to the crux then my own above that
bigdrew - Lead β - 01/Jun/14 with Dan

Fell twice from the crux before doing it
Si dH - 2nd dog - 31/May/14 with Neil Furniss

jamesturnbull - Lead - 25/May/14 with rich howells

Hidden - 2014

Sweet ground up, feeling strong, went direct, almost came off the move to the side pull/ undercut on the upperwall.
Haydn Jones - Lead RP - 18/Jun/13 with domonic

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/13

On Tim's gear, F7a
mark20 - Lead β - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/May/13

masa-alpin - TR dog - 03/Nov/12 with Mitch

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with luke

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/12

Simon Davis - Lead - 12/Jul/12 with Pete Davies

lots of cobwebs and damp holds
mwatson - Lead dog - 18/Jun/12

direct version.
dav - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Gill B

Matt Reid - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11 with luke holmes

Got it clean 2nd go on Andy's gear (direct). F7a?
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2011 with Matt Reid, Andy S

pretty much onsight, while abbing down the E2 next to it i checked that there was gear, but didn't have a good look at which size. Good route, bouldery crux. Went direct.
Matt Fry - Lead β - 29/Aug/10 with Andy Janezko

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with Matt Fry

Down climbed to the deck 4 times. The left hand method would only be 6a if your fingers were skinny enough to fit the slot imo. Made a heinous cross-through move up to right hand sidepull, then awkwardly matched with little for feet, felt 6b. Brilliant bit of trad power.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Mikey G

nacnud - Lead RP - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - TR RP - 31/May/10

1 rest, then clean
miastacey - 2nd - 11/Jul/09 with Bob Smith

psyched to lead at some point, gear looks bomber, wil return when fresh
tallsop - TR - 14/Jun/09 with alex

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 20/May/09 with Nic Sellers

Didn't manage the fingery crux.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 06/Jul/08 with Jack Geldard

Brown - Lead RP - 21/May/08 with Henry

Made a good onsight attempt at the direct version but fell on the final hard move going for the break. Complacency set in and many (!) falls later, eventually got a clean lead. Good route really.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 22/Sep/07 with reeve

Hidden - 29/May/07

Dave Bond - Lead β - 29/May/07 with Tim Banton

Boy - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

Hidden - Lead RP - 1998

Hidden - TR - 24/Mar/95

Roget - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/94 with jon

Stoney Boy - Lead RP - 09/Aug/93 with Tim Gould

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/93

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

sadams - Lead - 20/Jun/91 with Kev Mellieu

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/90

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

LH flash RH/direct 2nd go!
Bulls Crack - Lead β - 1990 with AM

Tried direct first fell off then led then did original ok
Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/88

Hidden - 1987

shark - Lead - 14/Oct/86 with Bruce Woodley

steve taylor - 2nd - Jun/86 with jon reti

Mike Owen - 08/May/86 with Steve Foxley

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 19/Nov/83 with Paul Clark

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1982 with Phil Burke

ewar woowar - 2nd - 1981

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard E60 of 26
E60 of 26
easy E60 of 26
hard E53 of 26
E515 of 26
easy E55 of 26
hard E43 of 26
E40 of 26
easy E40 of 26
hard 6c0 of 26
6c0 of 26
easy 6c0 of 26
hard 6b3 of 26
6b20 of 26
easy 6b2 of 26
hard 6a1 of 26
6a0 of 26
easy 6a0 of 26
3 Stars0 of 21
2 Stars19 of 21
1 Star2 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead35 of 62 (56.5%)
Followed10 of 62 (16.1%)
Toproped8 of 62 (12.9%)
Alt Leads2 of 62 (3.2%)
Unknown7 of 62 (11.3%)

'Climbed'30 of 62 (48.4%)
clean O/S7 of 62 (11.3%)
clean β5 of 62 (8.1%)
clean rpt3 of 62 (4.8%)
clean RP10 of 62 (16.1%)
dogged5 of 62 (8.1%)
dnf2 of 62 (3.2%)