Rockfax Description
A popular training exercise. Straightforward climbing leads to half-height. Either traverse left (skinny fingers help) and climb the thin crack, or go straight up with stretchy moves past crozzles. The direct is harder but has fewer moves. Take care with the runner in the letter-box, it has been known to pull if not placed in the right spot. © Rockfax

FA. T.Proctor 3.79. FA. (Jam Sandwich) M.Pretty 20.4.85 Mar/1979

Ticklists: Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

jamesturnbull 23/Jun Lead rpt
with dave brown
Hidden 14/Jun Lead RP
LRob 31/May Lead G/U
harry_lewis 30/May Lead RP
Matt Groom 30/May Lead
with Harry Lewis
AsleepOnBelay 24/May TR
with Owen
Cake 24/May TR RP


with Jeff
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
drysori 29/Jul/14 Lead RP

Nervy, did the direct.

Joughton 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Went up, sorted the gear out, spent ages fiddling in the perfect gear into the letter box. Reversed to the deck. Went up, scouted out the moves, fondled the holds. Reversed to deck. Went up again. Went the left way, still felt 6b to me, could just about squeeze a pad into the slot. Hardest moves I've done on gear, on my first day of the trad season, very pleased.

afern 30/Jun/14 2nd RP
Hidden 20/Jun/14 -
Hidden 13/Jun/14 TR rpt
oliver.ghill91 13/Jun/14 TR

6c+ - 7a? Be back for the lead

with Mark R, Seb
Nick Sherring 08/Jun/14 TR

training fun with Mark Pretty. Hard crux move on an awkward crimp cross-through!

psborland 08/Jun/14 TR

Training day.

bigdrew 01/Jun/14 Lead β

On Dans gear to the crux then my own above that

with Dan
Si dH 31/May/14 2nd dog

Fell twice from the crux before doing it

with Neil Furniss
jamesturnbull 25/May/14 Lead
with rich howells
Haydn Jones 18/Jun/13 Lead G/U

Sweet ground up, feeling strong, went direct, almost came off the move to the side pull/ undercut on the upperwall.

with domonic
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead RP
mark20 21/May/13 Lead β

On Tim's gear, F7a

Hidden 21/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead dnf
masa-alpin 03/Nov/12 TR dog
with Mitch
Howard Lawledge 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with luke
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead RP
Simon Davis 12/Jul/12 Lead
with Pete Davies
mwatson 18/Jun/12 Lead dog

lots of cobwebs and damp holds

dav 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S

direct version.

with Gill B
Matt Reid 25/Jun/11 Lead dog
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead RP

Got it clean 2nd go on Andy's gear (direct). F7a?

with Matt Reid, Andy S
Matt Fry 29/Aug/10 Lead β

pretty much onsight, while abbing down the E2 next to it i checked that there was gear, but didn't have a good look at which size. Good route, bouldery crux. Went direct.

bigdrew 29/Aug/10 2nd dog
Alex Mason 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Down climbed to the deck 4 times. The left hand method would only be 6a if your fingers were skinny enough to fit the slot imo. Made a heinous cross-through move up to right hand sidepull, then awkwardly matched with little for feet, felt 6b. Brilliant bit of trad power.

with Mikey G
nacnud 20/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/10 TR RP
miastacey 11/Jul/09 2nd

1 rest, then clean

with Bob Smith
tallsop 14/Jun/09 TR

psyched to lead at some point, gear looks bomber, wil return when fresh

with alex
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/May/09 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Jul/08 2nd

Didn't manage the fingery crux.

Brown 21/May/08 Lead RP
with Henry
Ram MkiV 22/Sep/07 Lead

Made a good onsight attempt at the direct version but fell on the final hard move going for the break. Complacency set in and many (!) falls later, eventually got a clean lead. Good route really.

with reeve
timbanton 29/May/07 -
Dave Bond 29/May/07 Lead β
Boy ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Mar/95 TR
Roget 02/Oct/94 Lead rpt
with jon
Stoney Boy 09/Aug/93 Lead RP
with Tim Gould
Hidden 05/Jul/93 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 2nd O/S
Billg ??/1992 Lead O/S
sadams 20/Jun/91 Lead
with Kev Mellieu
Hidden 10/Oct/90 Lead dnf
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
Hidden 29/Mar/90 Lead
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack ??/1990 Lead β

LH flash RH/direct 2nd go!

with AM
Bulls Crack ??/1989 Lead O/S

Tried direct first fell off then led then did original ok

Chris Wright 24/Jul/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
shark 14/Oct/86 Lead
with Bruce Woodley
steve taylor ?/Jun/86 2nd
with jon reti
Mike Owen 08/May/86 -
with Steve Foxley
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Mark Kemball 19/Nov/83 2nd
with Paul Clark
Mike Owen 06/Nov/83 2nd β
with Phil Davidson
Ian Jones ??/1983 2nd RP

Desperate; thin, thuggish and reachy.

with Quentin Fisher
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 2nd
with Phil Burke
ewar woowar ??/1981 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/80 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, theomoore, Hidden
High E6
Mid E6
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High E5
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High E4
Mid E4
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Votes cast 27
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set