Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Traffic Jam** E5 6b

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[Traffic Jam Area, 3 kb]A popular training exercise. Straightforward climbing leads to half-height. Either traverse left (skinny fingers help) and climb the thin crack, or go straight up with stretchy moves past crozzles. The direct is harder but has fewer moves. Take care with the runner in the letter-box, it has been known to pull if not placed in the right spot. © ROCKFAX
FA. T.Proctor 3.79. FA. (Jam Sandwich) M.Pretty 20.4.85 Mar/1979

Ticklists: Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Traffic Jam Area © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 52 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 2014

Sweet ground up, feeling strong, went direct, almost came off the move to the side pull/ undercut on the upperwall.
Haydn Jones - Lead RP - 18/Jun/13 with domonic

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/13

On Tim's gear, F7a
mark20 - Lead β - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/May/13

masa-alpin - TR dog - 03/Nov/12 with Mitch

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with luke

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/12

Simon Davis - Lead - 12/Jul/12 with Pete Davies

lots of cobwebs and damp holds
mwatson - Lead dog - 18/Jun/12

direct version.
dav - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Gill B

Matt Reid - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11 with luke holmes

Got it clean 2nd go on Andy's gear (direct). F7a?
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2011 with Matt Reid, Andy S

pretty much onsight, while abbing down the E2 next to it i checked that there was gear, but didn't have a good look at which size. Good route, bouldery crux. Went direct.
Matt Fry - Lead β - 29/Aug/10 with Andy Janezko

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with Matt Fry

Down climbed to the deck 4 times. The left hand method would only be 6a if your fingers were skinny enough to fit the slot imo. Made a heinous cross-through move up to right hand sidepull, then awkwardly matched with little for feet, felt 6b. Brilliant bit of trad power.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Mikey G

nacnud - Lead RP - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - TR RP - 31/May/10

1 rest, then clean
miastacey - 2nd - 11/Jul/09 with Bob Smith

psyched to lead at some point, gear looks bomber, wil return when fresh
tallsop - TR - 14/Jun/09 with alex

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 20/May/09 with Nic Sellers

Didn't manage the fingery crux.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 06/Jul/08 with Jack Geldard

Brown - Lead RP - 21/May/08 with Henry

Made a good onsight attempt at the direct version but fell on the final hard move going for the break. Complacency set in and many (!) falls later, eventually got a clean lead. Good route really.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 22/Sep/07 with reeve

Hidden - 29/May/07

Dave Bond - Lead β - 29/May/07 with Tim Banton

Boy - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

Hidden - Lead RP - 1998

Hidden - TR - 24/Mar/95

Roget - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/94 with jon

Stoney Boy - Lead RP - 09/Aug/93 with Tim Gould

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/93

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

sadams - Lead - 20/Jun/91 with Kev Mellieu

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/90

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

LH flash RH/direct 2nd go!
Bulls Crack - Lead β - 1990 with AM

Tried direct first fell off then led then did original ok
Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1989

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/88

Hidden - 1987

shark - Lead - 14/Oct/86 with Bruce Woodley

steve taylor - 2nd - Jun/86 with jon reti

Mike Owen - 08/May/86 with Steve Foxley

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 19/Nov/83 with Paul Clark

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1982 with Phil Burke

ewar woowar - 2nd - 1981

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 70
hard E60 of 25
E60 of 25
easy E60 of 25
hard E53 of 25
E514 of 25
easy E55 of 25
hard E43 of 25
E40 of 25
easy E40 of 25
hard 6c0 of 25
6c0 of 25
easy 6c0 of 25
hard 6b3 of 25
6b19 of 25
easy 6b2 of 25
hard 6a1 of 25
6a0 of 25
easy 6a0 of 25
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars18 of 20
1 Star2 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead32 of 52 (61.5%)
Followed8 of 52 (15.4%)
Toproped4 of 52 (7.7%)
Alt Leads2 of 52 (3.8%)
Unknown6 of 52 (11.5%)

'Climbed'25 of 52 (48.1%)
clean O/S6 of 52 (11.5%)
clean β4 of 52 (7.7%)
clean rpt2 of 52 (3.8%)
clean RP9 of 52 (17.3%)
dogged4 of 52 (7.7%)
dnf2 of 52 (3.8%)