Traffic Jam** E5 6b
[Dan Climbing Cleaning - Traffic Jam - Stoney Middleton
E5 6B** - Was a cool second as well. , 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A popular training exercise. Straightforward climbing leads to half-height. Either traverse left (skinny fingers help) and climb the thin crack, or go straight up with stretchy moves past crozzles. The direct is harder but has fewer moves. Take care with the runner in the letter-box, it has been known to pull if not placed in the right spot. © ROCKFAX

FA. T.Proctor 3.79. FA. (Jam Sandwich) M.Pretty 20.4.85 Mar/1979

Ticklists: Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Dan Climbing Cleaning - Traffic Jam - Stoney Middleton E5 6B** - Was a cool second as well. © afern
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

jamesturnbull - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/15 with dave brown

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Jun/15

LRob - Lead G/U - 31/May/15

harry_lewis - Lead RP - 30/May/15 with Matt Groom

Matt Groom - Lead - 30/May/15 with Harry Lewis

AsleepOnBelay - TR - 24/May/15 with Owen

Cake - TR RP - 24/May/15 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Sep/14

Nervy, did the direct.
drysori - Lead RP - 29/Jul/14

Went up, sorted the gear out, spent ages fiddling in the perfect gear into the letter box. Reversed to the deck. Went up, scouted out the moves, fondled the holds. Reversed to deck. Went up again. Went the left way, still felt 6b to me, could just about squeeze a pad into the slot. Hardest moves I've done on gear, on my first day of the trad season, very pleased.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/14

afern - 2nd RP - 30/Jun/14

Hidden - 20/Jun/14

Hidden - TR rpt - 13/Jun/14

6c+ - 7a? Be back for the lead
oliver.ghill91 - TR - 13/Jun/14 with Mark R, Seb

training fun with Mark Pretty. Hard crux move on an awkward crimp cross-through!
Nick Sherring - TR - 08/Jun/14 with Paul Borland

Training day.
psborland - TR - 08/Jun/14

On Dans gear to the crux then my own above that
bigdrew - Lead β - 01/Jun/14 with Dan

Fell twice from the crux before doing it
Si dH - 2nd dog - 31/May/14 with Neil Furniss

jamesturnbull - Lead - 25/May/14 with rich howells

Hidden - 2014

Sweet ground up, feeling strong, went direct, almost came off the move to the side pull/ undercut on the upperwall.
Haydn Jones - Lead G/U - 18/Jun/13 with domonic

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/13

On Tim's gear, F7a
mark20 - Lead β - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/May/13

masa-alpin - TR dog - 03/Nov/12 with Mitch

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with luke

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/12

Simon Davis - Lead - 12/Jul/12 with Pete Davies

lots of cobwebs and damp holds
mwatson - Lead dog - 18/Jun/12

direct version.
dav - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Gill B

Matt Reid - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11 with luke holmes

Got it clean 2nd go on Andy's gear (direct). F7a?
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2011 with Matt Reid, Andy S

pretty much onsight, while abbing down the E2 next to it i checked that there was gear, but didn't have a good look at which size. Good route, bouldery crux. Went direct.
Matt Fry - Lead β - 29/Aug/10 with Andy Janezko

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with Matt Fry

Down climbed to the deck 4 times. The left hand method would only be 6a if your fingers were skinny enough to fit the slot imo. Made a heinous cross-through move up to right hand sidepull, then awkwardly matched with little for feet, felt 6b. Brilliant bit of trad power.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Mikey G

nacnud - Lead RP - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - TR RP - 31/May/10

1 rest, then clean
miastacey - 2nd - 11/Jul/09 with Bob Smith

psyched to lead at some point, gear looks bomber, wil return when fresh
tallsop - TR - 14/Jun/09 with alex

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 20/May/09 with Nic Sellers

Didn't manage the fingery crux.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 06/Jul/08 with Jack Geldard

Brown - Lead RP - 21/May/08 with Henry

Made a good onsight attempt at the direct version but fell on the final hard move going for the break. Complacency set in and many (!) falls later, eventually got a clean lead. Good route really.
Ram MkiV - Lead - 22/Sep/07 with reeve

Hidden - 29/May/07

Dave Bond - Lead β - 29/May/07 with Tim Banton

Boy - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

Hidden - Lead RP - 1998

Hidden - TR - 24/Mar/95

Roget - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/94 with jon

Stoney Boy - Lead RP - 09/Aug/93 with Tim Gould

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/93

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

sadams - Lead - 20/Jun/91 with Kev Mellieu

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/90

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/90

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

LH flash RH/direct 2nd go!
Bulls Crack - Lead β - 1990 with AM

Tried direct first fell off then led then did original ok
Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1989

Chris Wright - Lead - 24/Jul/88

Hidden - 1987

shark - Lead - 14/Oct/86 with Bruce Woodley

steve taylor - 2nd - Jun/86 with jon reti

Mike Owen - 08/May/86 with Steve Foxley

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 19/Nov/83 with Paul Clark

Mike Owen - 2nd β - 06/Nov/83 with Phil Davidson

Desperate; thin, thuggish and reachy.
Ian Jones - 2nd RP - 1983 with Quentin Fisher

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1982 with Phil Burke

ewar woowar - 2nd - 1981

Hidden - Jun/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

mitch1960 - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, theomoore

Total votes cast 78
hard E60 of 27
E60 of 27
easy E60 of 27
hard E53 of 27
E516 of 27
easy E55 of 27
hard E43 of 27
E40 of 27
easy E40 of 27
hard 6c0 of 28
6c0 of 28
easy 6c0 of 28
hard 6b3 of 28
6b22 of 28
easy 6b2 of 28
hard 6a1 of 28
6a0 of 28
easy 6a0 of 28
3 Stars0 of 23
2 Stars20 of 23
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