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Double Scotch* E2 5b

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[Double Scotch - Bouldering Start, 4 kb]The crack and big pockets on the right lead to an overlap (thread and weird rest) and a pumpy finale up the short wall. Escaping right is easier but is only for those lacking in scruples. © ROCKFAX
FA. M.Barnicott 1960s 1965

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Double Scotch - Bouldering Start © Bunchuk
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 230 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Escaped right at the top wall, lacking in scruples
eduardo - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14

A rare thing - a soft touch route at Stoney! Didn't feel pumpy but perhaps because I climbed it quickly and only placed four runners. The boulder problem direct start is fun but not 5b! I did a dyne for a jug, cutting loose on it. Presumably the normal start is over on the right, following large holds into the crack. Good moves and a great hip bar rest - hands free if you're careful! A bit eliminate above as there's an easier corner to the right but a good finish up the crack easier than it looks.
Misha - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Ed

Had to leave a nut in and remove it when lowering down, but otherwise clean.
OliverRoss - 2nd β - 29/Jul/14 with Wil Treasure

drysori - Lead - 29/Jul/14

Hidden - TR - 16/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/14

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

dav - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/14 with Si Davis

Hidden - TR - 13/Jun/14

training day, nice climb and a no hands rest stiuffed into the wide crack!
Nick Sherring - TR O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Paul Borland

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Martin Hinkley

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Nick Conway

Derek Furze - 2nd - 02/Apr/14 with Paul Mitchell

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/14

Suprer cool no hard moves , just a bit pumpy
Andy Peak 1 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/14 with Rob stokes

dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/14 with Andy

Urghh, pumpy, felt harder than it should have.
Brannock - Lead dog - 16/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/Mar/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Bailed to the right, but the route was pretty slimy
Cake - Lead rpt - 25/Nov/13 with Matt

Nice to do again. Pumpier than I remembered.
James Oswald - 2nd RP - 25/Sep/13 with James Rees

Stig - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with james oswald

barefoot, pleasant
Hannes B - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with Phil

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/13

Chris Wright - Lead - 25/Aug/13

masonwoods101 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/13

Rockwarrior - 18/Jul/13 with Matthew Crowford

Gezzer - 2nd - Jul/13 with Steve Burns

stephenhartley - 2nd β - Jul/13 with Dave Brown

Got pumped on this and stayed pumped all day, useful buttock jam rest in the wide bit in the middle, 2 star
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Nic

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jun/13

Retreated to the cafe during torrential rain then re-visited the crag as the sun came out and found this little gem.
KRB - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Chris Bridges

Young American start. E2 6c
mark20 - Lead rpt - 21/May/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/May/13

adamashcroft - TR - 13/May/13

Apharri - 2nd β - 06/May/13 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/13

Hidden - 2nd β - 24/Apr/13

mapperley samurai - TR - 20/Apr/13 with John Cook

David Sherratt - 2013

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with pep

Steep, safe and great fun
jkarran - Lead - 01/Sep/12 with Grant, Pete

A good route, but very soft.
GrantB - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with James, Alpha Red

Really nice climbing, better than it looks from the ground.
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Olli Crudge

Cool route,
Olli-C - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Rachel Slater

Kazza91 - 11/Aug/12

Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/12

jshields - 2nd - 25/Jul/12 with Paul Tretheway, Tony Fidler

Didn't realise it was so safe. I should have saved it for the onsight
Cake - TR O/S - 04/Jul/12

Hidden - TR dog - 03/Jul/12

Hidden - TR dog - 03/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/12

slacky - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Nick Taylor

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/12

JulesV - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Shauna Cunningham

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Chris

tried this a year or so ago and bottled out onto the ledge. nice to tie up loose ends
J.Wells - Lead RP - 12/Jun/12 with Mark Rankine

First E2, really good route. Strenuous up to the initial cracks, tough "lifting the fridge moves". Nice thread, ace route/
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Duncan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

aretherenoneleft - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with Henry Jepson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/12

simonp - Lead β - May/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

johncook - TR - 07/Apr/12

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

Martin Haworth - Lead β - 06/Apr/12 with John Brannock

First E2 grade. Rocked up to Minus Ten Wall and thought that the line looked great to climb. We had no guidebook...It was great fun, pumpy at parts, but mainly because of my lack of experience at the time. Was very happy to hear it was an E2.
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/12 with Darren Burns

too wet :(
chrism225 - Lead dnf - 22/Jan/12 with mark

Hidden - Lead - 23/Oct/11

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Sam M

Si dH - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Alison Ingleby

Followed this ages ago. Stayed direct this time. Pretty pumpy - Not the best first route choice!
bigdrew - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/11 with Rich R

catblack - 2nd - 03/Aug/11 with Skippy

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Bill Lawrence

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/11

easy moves, heard and seen that it was pumpy but felt fairly steady. nice
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Guy VG, andy gravestock

Pumped right arm, couldn't remember any moves and couldn't even put the thread in so proved a bit of a buzz
GuyVG - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/11 with billy

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Dave

nai - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/11 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/11

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Charles Moreton, David Gilling

cem - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson

One rest. Damn it. Really nice route.
Sidekick - Lead dog - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Jul/11

Matt Reid - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with luke holmes

Chris Wright - Lead - 29/May/11

tuftynick - 2nd rpt - 24/May/11 with ben winston, rich cross

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/11

Pumpy beast!
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 10/May/11 with Graham Parkes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Matt Fry - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Garry Jackson

After leading it, tr'd twice for a nice pump in the rain.
jamiev - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Tim Parkinson

Anthony Dixon - TR - 05/Mar/11

alasdair19 - 2011

On Andy's gear.
kingholmesy - Lead - 2011 with Matt Reid, Andy S

i_a_coops - Lead β - 14/Dec/10

nice!
shafiq lalloo - 2nd - 21/Nov/10 with ciaran1999, jacobjacob

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10

james.lane - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/10 with Patrick

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

gingerwolf - TR O/S - 11/Sep/10

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Andy Janezko

bigdrew - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/10 with Matt Fry

And Hannah. Nice route but easy to escape at the top.
migs493 - 2nd β - 28/Aug/10 with Haydn

haydng - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Mike, Hannah

galpinos - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Ben & Phil

First E2, but it's not E2.
DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

1st quarter of route lead on some of Tom's gear. Placed an early runner too before leading the rest on mine. Feel fair taking the onsight as i'd worked through the beggining from the ground with Tom on his attempt. with it being a get on, climb back down 'job for us anyway. - Underated for sure!
Oliver Branagan - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Tom M

decs - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Bart

Simon Davis - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Toby Denny

Hidden - TR β - 16/Jul/10

Dogmusher - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/10 with charles moreton

cem - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/10 with Mark O'Neill

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/10

Seconded it then got straight on for the lead. Easy though steeper than it looks - or gravity was sucking hard that day. Great hands off rest. As much gear as you want.
philhilo - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10 with brian rodgers

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Phil Leng

nacnud - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 12/Jun/10

Not sure I finished the route as it should be - may have stepped off the top wall a bit too early.
DavidR - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

jowgli - Lead RP - 28/May/10 with will kelsall

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 26/May/10

First route at Stoney ever and it felt really good. Altough I believe there's better. This only gets one star... I thought it was cool
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/10

smudge - Lead rpt - 12/May/10

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 03/May/10 with Sarah

metal arms - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

mark20 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/10

smudge - 2nd rpt - 16/Sep/09 with Phil Baker

danm - 2nd - 08/Sep/09 with Dan Arkle

leepip - Lead β - 03/Sep/09 with hairy tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Aug/09

James Thacker - Lead - 21/Aug/09

My first route in Stoney.
masa-alpin - 2nd β - 02/Aug/09 with Sirion

miastacey - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Bob Smith

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/09 with Jules Vulliamy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09

tuftynick - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/09 with nick warren

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/May/09

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 17/May/09 with Matt Snape

amstel - 2nd - 17/May/09 with Alan James - UKC

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Luke

All moves, but fell/rested several times.
gingerkate - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/09 with M

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/09

rope was up as Al had abbed down, great moves that had me gasping, placing gear would have been a major problem due to completely knackered climber.
GuyVG - TR O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Lee, Steve, Rob and AL

Have failed on this a few years ago, rode the pump on this one.
Alex Mason - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Lee Cooper

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/08

smudge - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Phil

1 Fall - Straight back on
Phil1967 - 2nd - 12/Sep/08 with Dan

Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 06/Jul/08 with Jack Geldard

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with John Camateras

simonfife - TR dog - 01/Jun/08 with Tonny Madden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/08

Shunt
Brown - TR O/S - 23/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/08

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07

chris j - Lead RP - 06/Oct/07 with Doug

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 24/Aug/07 with Ruth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/07

doug s - Lead - 03/Jun/07 with mike

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/06

This climb needs 2* and is better than casual sex!
Iggy_B - Lead O/S - 30/May/06 with Simon Troop

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/May/06

nice climbing. Stayed on the left hand face throughout.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 19/May/06 with Alex

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

nige - Lead - 30/Oct/04 with nick colton

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2004 with john d

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/03

skygodley - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/01 with SarahM

Hidden - 2nd - May/01

marcoleptic - Lead - 2000 with Dave

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Roget - Solo rpt - 05/Apr/99

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/98 with Chris Barnes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/97

ChrisJD - Lead - 09/Aug/97 with rc

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Apr/97

tlr - 2nd - 18/Nov/96 with Andy M

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/95

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Mar/95

2nd: Mike. '95?
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 1995 with Mike Block

nai - Lead - 15/Mar/94 with UCL CC

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/94

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/93

Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead - 27/Oct/91

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/91

Neil R - 2nd - 08/Sep/90 with Mark

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1989 with AM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

babymoac - 2nd - 04/Dec/88 with Alan S, Angus

sadams - Lead RP - 17/Jun/85 with unseconded

Chris Wright - Lead - 12/Mar/85

neilh - Lead dog - 04/Nov/84 with dave croker

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/82

David Smith - 2nd - 01/Jun/80 with john stanger

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1975

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/69

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 168
hard E30 of 57
E30 of 57
easy E30 of 57
hard E23 of 57
E219 of 57
easy E227 of 57
hard E18 of 57
E10 of 57
easy E10 of 57
hard 5c0 of 56
5c0 of 56
easy 5c4 of 56
hard 5b7 of 56
5b42 of 56
easy 5b3 of 56
hard 5a0 of 56
5a0 of 56
easy 5a0 of 56
3 Stars3 of 55
2 Stars28 of 55
1 Star23 of 55
0 Stars1 of 55
Bag of .....0 of 55
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 230 (0.9%)
Lead144 of 230 (62.6%)
Followed59 of 230 (25.7%)
Toproped16 of 230 (7.0%)
Alt Leads2 of 230 (0.9%)
Unknown7 of 230 (3.0%)

'Climbed'70 of 230 (30.4%)
clean O/S99 of 230 (43.0%)
clean β13 of 230 (5.7%)
clean rpt29 of 230 (12.6%)
clean RP5 of 230 (2.2%)
dogged13 of 230 (5.7%)
dnf1 of 230 (0.4%)