Rockfax Description
The crack and big pockets on the right lead to an overlap (thread and weird rest) and a pumpy finale up the short wall. Escaping right is easier but is only for those lacking in scruples. © Rockfax

FA. M.Barnicott 1960s 1965

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Jono_LS16 06/Sep Lead O/S
PeteWilson 18/Aug Lead O/S

cool route, little bit pumpy placing gear, harder bit was not where I was expecting, thought it would be the initial crack but that was straightforward, found it was the next section. not too hard though :)

with josh
theomoore 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Deacon
oread 04/Jul Lead O/S
Maddie 04/Jul 2nd O/S

Fun route

with Dan Hostford, LSMC lot, Alun, remus, Dennis999
williap 27/Jun TR
Hidden 27/Jun TR
Olli-C 27/Jun Lead rpt
with Lou
Dan Hostford 27/Jun 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun Lead rpt
heywoodj 23/Jun 2nd β
Sam Simpson 19/Jun Lead O/S
nai 16/Jun 2nd rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 14/Jun Lead rpt
nickcanute 14/Jun 2nd
with mit
dr_botnik 12/Jun Lead rpt

Pulled right after the thread, placed a cam and stepped back. Apparently I missed an undercut move. Back around for me!

with Andy
benkelsey 11/Jun Lead dog

Escaped off right to the ledge, pulled back on one move higher. Very hot and sweaty.

the power 06/Jun Lead dnf

DNS haha

Graeme Hammond 02/Jun Lead O/S
LRob 31/May Lead G/U
deacondeacon 27/May Lead O/S
Matt Groom 25/May Lead
with Harry Lewis
AsleepOnBelay 24/May TR

Worth coming back to lead.

with Owen
Cake 24/May TR rpt
with Jeff
harry_lewis 21/May Lead O/S
simon kimber 30/Apr Lead
with Jez Portman
dom94 29/Apr Lead O/S
with shaun
shaunhumphreys 29/Apr Lead β
with Dom
Hidden 28/Apr -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Brannock 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Got it clean, very pumpy

Hannes B 14/Sep/14 Lead rpt

on Tom's gear

with Tom W
sian88 ?/Sep/14 2nd O/S
eduardo 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Escaped right at the top wall, lacking in scruples

Misha 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A rare thing - a soft touch route at Stoney! Didn't feel pumpy but perhaps because I climbed it quickly and only placed four runners. The boulder problem direct start is fun but not 5b! I did a dyne for a jug, cutting loose on it. Presumably the normal start is over on the right, following large holds into the crack. Good moves and a great hip bar rest - hands free if you're careful! A bit eliminate above as there's an easier corner to the right but a good finish up the crack easier than it looks.

with Ed
OliverRoss 29/Jul/14 2nd β

Had to leave a nut in and remove it when lowering down, but otherwise clean.

with Wil Treasure
drysori 29/Jul/14 Lead
LakesWinter 16/Jul/14 TR
with Phil B
Hidden 12/Jul/14 2nd
Matt Cooke 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
dav 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Si Davis
LakesWinter 13/Jun/14 TR


with Cake
Nick Sherring 08/Jun/14 TR O/S

training day, nice climb and a no hands rest stiuffed into the wide crack!

Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Martin Wing
Stoney Boy 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Nick Conway
Derek Furze 02/Apr/14 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 21/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Suprer cool no hard moves , just a bit pumpy

dr_botnik 21/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
Brannock 16/Mar/14 Lead dog

Urghh, pumpy, felt harder than it should have.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd dog
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
vinspin ??/2014 Lead dnf

Pumpy, run out of gas on the top section

with kaz
Cake 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Bailed to the right, but the route was pretty slimy

with Matt
James Oswald 25/Sep/13 2nd RP

Nice to do again. Pumpier than I remembered.

with James Rees
Stig 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with james oswald
Hannes B 21/Sep/13 2nd

barefoot, pleasant

with Phil
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead
Chris Wright 25/Aug/13 Lead
masonwoods101 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Rockwarrior 18/Jul/13 -
with Matthew Crowford
Gezzer ?/Jul/13 2nd
stephenhartley ?/Jul/13 2nd β
with Dave Brown
Owen W-G 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Got pumped on this and stayed pumped all day, useful buttock jam rest in the wide bit in the middle, 2 star

with Nic
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
samt 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Lucian
Hidden 14/Jun/13 2nd
KRB 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Retreated to the cafe during torrential rain then re-visited the crag as the sun came out and found this little gem.

with Chris Bridges
mark20 21/May/13 Lead rpt

Young American start. E2 6c

Hidden 21/May/13 Lead rpt
adamashcroft 13/May/13 TR
Apharri 06/May/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
realbobsmith 24/Apr/13 2nd β
mapperley samurai 20/Apr/13 TR
David Sherratt ??/2013 -
Haydn Jones 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with pep
jkarran 01/Sep/12 Lead

Steep, safe and great fun

with Grant, Pete
GrantB 01/Sep/12 2nd

A good route, but very soft.

Rachel Slater 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, better than it looks from the ground.

Olli-C 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Cool route,

Kazza91 11/Aug/12 -
Dave Foster 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Si 2
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt
jshields 25/Jul/12 2nd
with Paul Tretheway, Tony Fidler
TonyF 25/Jul/12 Lead
Cake 04/Jul/12 TR O/S

Didn't realise it was so safe. I should have saved it for the onsight

LakesWinter 03/Jul/12 TR dog

Rested about 4 times, must get fitter.

Hidden 03/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
JulesV 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Jim Slater 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
J.Wells 12/Jun/12 Lead RP

tried this a year or so ago and bottled out onto the ledge. nice to tie up loose ends

James Oswald 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First E2, really good route. Strenuous up to the initial cracks, tough "lifting the fridge moves". Nice thread, ace route/

with Duncan
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead rpt
aretherenoneleft 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
simonp ?/May/12 Lead β
with Annelies Sarrazyn
johncook 07/Apr/12 TR
Brannock 07/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 06/Apr/12 Lead β
joe1joe1joe2 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First E2 grade. Rocked up to Minus Ten Wall and thought that the line looked great to climb. We had no guidebook...It was great fun, pumpy at parts, but mainly because of my lack of experience at the time. Was very happy to hear it was an E2.

with Darren Burns
chrism225 22/Jan/12 Lead dnf

too wet :(

with mark
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead
Hannes B 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Sam M
Si dH 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Alison Ingleby
bigdrew 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Followed this ages ago. Stayed direct this time. Pretty pumpy - Not the best first route choice!

with Rich R
catblack 03/Aug/11 2nd
with Skippy
James Oakes 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Bill Lawrence 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

easy moves, heard and seen that it was pumpy but felt fairly steady. nice

with Guy VG, andy gravestock
GuyVG 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Pumped right arm, couldn't remember any moves and couldn't even put the thread in so proved a bit of a buzz

with billy
belay bunny turned bad 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Dave
nai 28/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead
drcorbasisgod 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
cem 24/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson
Sidekick 13/Jul/11 Lead dog

One rest. Damn it. Really nice route.

Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd dog
Matt Reid 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 29/May/11 Lead
tuftynick 24/May/11 2nd rpt
with ben winston, rich cross
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead
Chris Craggs 10/May/11 2nd

Pumpy beast!

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Garry Jackson
jamiev 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

After leading it, tr'd twice for a nice pump in the rain.

with Tim Parkinson
Anthony Dixon 05/Mar/11 TR
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead

On Andy's gear.

with Matt Reid, Andy S
i_a_coops 14/Dec/10 Lead β
shafiq lalloo 21/Nov/10 2nd


jacobjacob 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S
james.lane 27/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Alan James - UKC and UKH 12/Sep/10 2nd
gingerwolf 11/Sep/10 TR O/S
Matt Fry 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 29/Aug/10 2nd dog
migs493 28/Aug/10 2nd β

And Hannah. Nice route but easy to escape at the top.

with Haydn
haydng 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mike, Hannah
galpinos 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Ben & Phil
DaveFidler 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First E2, but it's not E2.

Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 25/Jul/10 2nd
with loundsy
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Oliver Branagan 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

1st quarter of route lead on some of Tom's gear. Placed an early runner too before leading the rest on mine. Feel fair taking the onsight as i'd worked through the beggining from the ground with Tom on his attempt. with it being a get on, climb back down 'job for us anyway. - Underated for sure!

with Tommy M
decs 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Bart
Simon Davis 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Toby Denny
Bry 16/Jul/10 TR β
with Simon
Dogmusher 15/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with charles moreton
cem 15/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mark O'Neill
Hidden 28/Jun/10 Lead rpt
philhilo 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Seconded it then got straight on for the lead. Easy though steeper than it looks - or gravity was sucking hard that day. Great hands off rest. As much gear as you want.

Brian Rodgers 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 TR O/S
DavidR 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Not sure I finished the route as it should be - may have stepped off the top wall a bit too early.

Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
jowgli 28/May/10 Lead RP
Speeddemonsi 26/May/10 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 20/May/10 Lead O/S

First route at Stoney ever and it felt really good. Altough I believe there's better. This only gets one star... I thought it was cool

Hidden 20/May/10 Lead O/S
smudge 12/May/10 Lead rpt
greenclimb 03/May/10 Lead rpt
with Sarah
metal arms 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
mark20 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead
smudge 16/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Phil Baker
danm 08/Sep/09 2nd
with Dan Arkle
leepip 03/Sep/09 Lead β
with hairy tom
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd rpt
James Thacker 21/Aug/09 Lead
masa-alpin 02/Aug/09 2nd β

My first route in Stoney.

with Sirion
miastacey 11/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
DavidEvans 29/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jules Vulliamy
Hidden 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tuftynick 21/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with nick warren
simon kimber 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/09 Lead rpt
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/May/09 Lead
amstel 17/May/09 2nd
Sankey 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Luke
gingerkate 13/Apr/09 2nd dog

All moves, but fell/rested several times.

with M
Hidden 09/Apr/09 2nd O/S
GuyVG 22/Feb/09 TR O/S

rope was up as Al had abbed down, great moves that had me gasping, placing gear would have been a major problem due to completely knackered climber.

with Lee, Steve, Rob and AL
Alex Mason 22/Feb/09 Lead rpt

Have failed on this a few years ago, rode the pump on this one.

Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead rpt
smudge 12/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Phil
Phil1967 12/Sep/08 2nd

1 Fall - Straight back on

with Dan
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Phil Jennings 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
simonfife 01/Jun/08 TR dog
with Tonny Madden
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Brown 23/Apr/08 TR O/S


Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead rpt
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
chris j 06/Oct/07 Lead RP
with Doug
Toby Dunn 24/Aug/07 2nd
with Ruth
Hidden 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead rpt
doug s 03/Jun/07 Lead
with mike
Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead β
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Iggy_B 30/May/06 Lead O/S

This climb needs 2* and is better than casual sex!

with Simon Troop
Hidden 20/May/06 Lead dog
Ram MkiV 19/May/06 Lead O/S

nice climbing. Stayed on the left hand face throughout.

with Alex
JulesV ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
nige 30/Oct/04 Lead
with nick colton
Phill Mitch ??/2004 Lead O/S
with john d
Hidden 03/Jun/03 Lead
skygodley 06/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with SarahM
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Dave
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 05/Apr/99 Solo rpt
Chris Ellis 12/Sep/98 Lead
with Chris Barnes
Hidden 28/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/98 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/97 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/97 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/97 Lead dog
tlr 18/Nov/96 2nd
with Andy M
Hidden 14/May/95 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/95 2nd
Gary Coggon ??/1995 Lead O/S

2nd: Mike. '95?

with Mike Block
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
nai 15/Mar/94 Lead
with UCL CC
Roget 20/Feb/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/93 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/92 Lead
Hidden 27/Oct/91 Lead
Hidden 07/Apr/91 2nd
Neil R 08/Sep/90 2nd
with Mark
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack ??/1989 Lead O/S
with AM
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
babymoac 04/Dec/88 2nd
with Alan S, Angus
sadams 17/Jun/85 Lead RP
with unseconded
Chris Wright 12/Mar/85 Lead
neilh 04/Nov/84 Lead dog
with dave croker
charlesmfrench 07/Nov/82 2nd O/S
uphillnow 01/Jun/80 2nd
with john stanger
Andy Say ??/1975 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
James 1, hutchay, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 60
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set