Rockfax Description
Start in the pit. After the slippery start, this gives great, sustained crack-climbing on knobbly jams. Not too polished, not too desperate and entertaining for spectators.
Historical note: under the base of the crack is a cave that was once used to park carriages in. After a body was found there it became used as a rubbish dump. Eventually the ground reached its current level. © Rockfax

FA. Unknown

Ticklists: 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

fuzzysheep01 05/Sep 2nd dog

Stiff as f**k, steep, sustained.

DubyaJamesDubya 05/Sep Lead O/S
with Joe Norris
Andy Peak 1 31/Jul Lead rpt

Pumped out first try! Clean and steady from the ground second try

Angus Taylor 21/Jul 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Jun Lead O/S
dan gibson 27/Jun Lead O/S

Surely this is HVS, a pathway of jamming. 5.8 max.

with Mark Stevenson
markalmack 27/Jun 2nd O/S
with will
WB 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 19/Jun 2nd O/S

Good lead Tom

nai 16/Jun 2nd
with Andrew
LRob 31/May Lead G/U
Stoney Boy 12/Apr Lead rpt
with Nick Conway
Hidden ?/Apr Lead O/S
Canyak ??/2015 -
Duncan Campbell 22/Jul/14 2nd

Jesus! This is a hard E2! Bloody good lead from Rach, finally a route not in the sun!

with Rach
Rachel Slater 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

That was a close one!

Andy Peak 1 22/Jun/14 2nd

Still felt ferly hard on second:-)

with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Hard work. Climbed up, sorted a bit of gear, climbed down for a rest then smashed it. By 'smashed it' I obviously mean just scraped over the top pumped to buggery.

GuyVG 05/Jun/14 2nd dog

the horror, the horror

with DJ Malx
bigdrew 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Finally dragged my self up this(and in shocking conditions)

with Dan
dr_botnik 19/May/14 2nd dog
with Andy
Andy Peak 1 19/May/14 Lead RP

Had one rest on it a few days ago went back and lead clean

phildawson 05/May/14 2nd dog

Got unbelievably pumped on the first half so ended up falling after i'd done all the hard climbing. A bit frustrating. A great route though, if a bit desperate.

tim newton 05/May/14 Lead O/S

loved this, because I found it hard. In fact I was far more pumped on this than bitterfingers earlier on in the day, though I'm not good at resting on jams and I mainly got pumped from the start section, it eases off fortunately...or unfortunately?

DanielGyi 30/Mar/14 Lead dog

Feet popped on the bottom polished section. Upper section sustained but class.

with Dom Pearce
Hidden 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Rockwarrior 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Matthew Crowford
Chriswallis2 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Felt confident after cruising dead banana crack. Jumped on this and got absolutely spanked.

with Jenny
Haydn Jones 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S
samt ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Chris Wright 28/Oct/12 Lead
Matt Cooke 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hannes B 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Francis
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Seemed soft for E2 on solid jams and not that pumpy really enjoyed this :)

Hidden 26/May/12 2nd dog
lithos 29/Mar/12 2nd

steep, not very well, Pete cruised it, after a rethink, of course

with tony holdsworth, pete harris
Tony Holdsworth 29/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Rob Stone, Peter Harris
timmyhobby 21/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd
Brian Rodgers 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Misha 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Excellent jamming crack with 'thank god' face holds. The hardest bit is straight off the deck, after that it's sustained 5b but with good jamming rests and then easier towards the top. Paul belayed but couldn't get beyond the first few moves so Brian seconded to get the gear out. Last route of the day before going to Leamington via Brian's to go to Budapest with Holly in the morning.

with Brian, Paul
Pay Attention 22/Oct/11 2nd
with Misha
philhilo 22/Oct/11 Lead
davesykes 29/Aug/11 2nd
with willy
Si dH 21/Aug/11 Lead dog

One rest at about half height between the two wider sections. Got a move wrong, had to reverse it then was totally boxed. Bit gutted as after that move there was a recovery position and then it eased off a bit :oS

with Alison Ingleby
bigdrew 07/Aug/11 Lead dog
Marti999 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Gary Jackson
drcorbasisgod 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
cem 24/Jul/11 2nd dog

2 rests: first climb of the day & I could have done with a warm up route beforehand

Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Mega heavy lead... Got trapped by the sun and had to strip off 2 layers Houdini stylie, from a reasonably bad position. Required swift/solid pro sorting and plenty of gumption to get between the various R&R spots!

DaveFidler 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 24/May/11 Lead dnf

just not fit enough

Matt Fry 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Garry Jackson
smudge 11/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Feels very top end E2, in other words Stoney E2!

thomasadixon 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Wicked. Toughest E2 at stoney?

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Tom
akhughes 06/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 05/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Adam Hughes, Dan McKinlay
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 05/Mar/11 TR
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Mar/11 2nd
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Rich Kirby 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Nige
Simon Davis 18/Jul/10 2nd
with Toby Denny
Nicos 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Gary Wheeler
Andrew Barker 26/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice and pumpy. Didn't help that I didn't take the right kind of gear.

with Chunk
duzinga 27/Mar/10 2nd dog
with Pete Harris
Justin T 21/Mar/10 Lead dog

Felt like an absolute sandbag pump-fest. I had about 4 rests on it as did my second and we would both normally expect to be comfortablish at the grade. It was the end of the day and I can't jam for toffee... but maybe northerners are just made of sterner stuff, eh?

with Cherry
Hidden 21/Mar/10 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
smudge 16/Sep/09 2nd O/S


with Phil Baker
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead dog
porridgefan 12/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Joe Ward
Hidden 12/Aug/09 2nd
robin heath 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/09 -
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead
Ram MkiV 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with al m & andy g
Alex Mason 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Blew this about 3yrs ago, still found it pumpier than cabbage crack.

with Nick Rabb
tuftynick ?/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with niall + jerry
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
John Southworth 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Messenger
duzinga 21/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Pete Harris and Stu Bolton
Tony Holdsworth 19/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Peter Harris
Hidden 19/Mar/09 -
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Ian Parnell 22/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Matt Heason
skygodley 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
doug s 06/Oct/07 Lead
with ChrisJ
chris j 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Doug
Toby Dunn 24/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Ruth
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead RP
Alex Mason 19/Apr/07 Lead

Failed on this last tuesday cos it was dark. fluent though-out this time. a pleasant struggle.

Hidden 17/Mar/07 Lead dog
JulesV 05/May/06 Lead O/S
with toby dunn
nige 21/May/05 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden 24/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden 30/May/04 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2002 -
Hidden 29/Apr/01 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/99 Lead
Hidden 12/May/96 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/95 TR
Hidden 04/Jun/95 TR
Hidden 04/Jun/95 TR
Hidden 31/May/95 TR
Hidden 14/May/95 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 10/May/94 Lead
nai 15/Apr/94 Lead
with UCL CC
Hidden 28/Apr/93 TR
Roget 21/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/93 2nd
steve taylor ?/Jun/92 TR
with stumpy
Hidden 23/Jun/91 Lead
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
chrisrogers ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with Chris J
NickJH ?/Jun/90 2nd
with N Smart, D Picker
Hidden 18/Feb/90 TR
Dave Musgrove 15/Apr/89 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
Bulls Crack ??/1989 2nd
with JB
Hidden ??/1989 -
Bruce Kerr 12/Nov/88 Lead
with Keith Turton
Chris Ellis 02/Sep/88 TR
with Dave Turner
Rob Davies 23/Jul/88 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/88 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 20/Apr/87 -
charlesmfrench 22/Mar/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
simon parish ??/1987 Lead
with Andrew Taylor, Adrian Eggleton
keefe 19/Oct/86 -
wynaptomos ?/Mar/86 2nd dog
John Marsland 26/Aug/85 Lead dog
with Dave Mould
Neil R 24/Jun/85 Lead
with Richard W
John Marsland 23/Jun/85 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Jun/85 AltLd
sadams 17/May/85 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
sadams 02/Apr/85 Lead dnf
neilh 28/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with simon webster
uphillnow 01/Jul/84 Lead

lead regularly in 80's and 90's. Last lead 26.9.2007 with M Allatt AND G Exley

Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 08/Sep/83 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Gezzer ??/1983 -
Hidden ?/Jun/82 Lead
Mike Owen 21/Jun/81 -
with Phil Ralph
Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1981 Lead O/S
with Rich Lewis (a.k.a. 'Dick Hairs')
Andy Stephenson 19/Jul/80 2nd O/S


with Chris Plant
Mark Kemball 08/Mar/80 2nd
with John Jefferies
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lenny, Hidden
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High 6a
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Style of ascent
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