Rockfax Description
The right-hand crack is high in the grade. The disappointingly thin lower section gives a few very technical moves, before the respite of the wider crack above, which is solid HVS jamming.
Original, E1 5b - Gain the top section from the crack of Medusa. © Rockfax

FA. M.Stokes, D.Humphries 6.3.76. FA. (Original) G.Birtles, C.Jackson 9.64. 06/Mar/1976


ClimberDateStyle
Lenny 24/Jul Lead dnf

Pumped and burnt out, placing the gear was almost as hard as the climbing. Got up to the blind pocket and taking a small fall, which ripped one of the 'bomber' wires. Really nice and varied climbing and worth a couple of stars.

with Hidden
deacondeacon 27/Apr Lead O/S

Just scraped up this. Between sleet and snow showers, but it was nice and dry. Probably one of the worst routes at Stoney to try and warm up on lol

Andy Peak 1 27/Apr 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
Hidden 14/Jun/15 TR O/S
Andy Peak 1 10/Jun/15 2nd
bigdrew 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Fell off last year. Felt ok today.

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 20/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Glad I did it won't rust to repeat this one!

with Si
Matt Cooke 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 05/Aug/14 2nd
Misha 30/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Hard! Not a warm up!!! Got a flash pump after getting gear into the thin crack, the first pocket was as far as I got and it was rubbish, the main issue though was that I couldn't get my left foot established on anything decent (lots of polished smears). Fell off three times then gave up as it was an evening session so time was precious. One to come back to.

with Ed, Phil
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead G/U
eel 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Andy J
Hannes B 30/Jul/13 Lead

1 fall

with Phil
Hidden 04/Sep/12 Lead β
JulesV 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
Joughton 16/Oct/11 Lead dog

Had two falls on the same move, on the second my cam ripped so I gave it one more go... managed to get up it clean after but I found the crack a good jamming lesson, and I think my inexperience showed quite a lot...

Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Jul/10 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 -
dan gibson 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
tuftynick ?/May/09 Lead dog
with miles gibson
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Pritchard
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Brown 22/May/08 Lead dog
with Henry
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 20/Apr/89 Lead O/S
keefe 19/Oct/86 -
Chris Wright 12/Jun/85 Lead
sadams 04/Apr/85 Lead
Nigel Bond 31/Jul/83 2nd
with Charlie Leverton
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Hidden ?/May/81 AltLd
Mark Kemball 11/Oct/80 Lead
with Bill McKee
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set