The direct line through the eye is a fine route when clean and dry.1) 5b, 18m. Passing the eye is tricky. Many abseil from the tree, but it is worth investigating further...2) 4c, 10m. The cherty holds on the well-protected upper wall. © Rockfax
FA. J.Street 1966
Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
P1. Fell. Great climbing throughout. Will be back for it clean.
|Mark Grist||12/Jul||Lead O/S||
|Graeme Hammond||29/Jun||2nd rpt|
Did in one long pitch. Found this hard. Feel like I got a bad sequence as the crux felt hard 5c, then I couldn't remember the line for the top pitch and ended up doing a harder variation. Really cool rock up top
|Graeme Hammond||21/Apr||AltLd O/S||
led pitch 1
Went up and left from the eye per Rockfax topos and it's the obvious way to go. Got a semi juggy side pull, left foot up, then... stranded! Couldn't stand up or get the other foot up. Couldn't easily reverse either. Eventually tried getting the other foot up, lost balance and fell off upside down, went a fair way. Falling off an E2, how embarrassing! Back up, skipped over to the small ledge by the tree and mantled direct from there, which was tricky 5b and similarly above and to the side from the gear. That felt right for the grade. So I reckon the Rockfax topo is wrong or else it's a sandbag as it sure wasn't 5b the way I tried it first! Enjoyable headwall.
|belay bunny turned bad||19/Aug/14||Lead||
|Matt Cooke||13/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
|Chris Wright||31/Jul/14||Lead rpt|
|John Jefferies||30/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
|Stoney Boy||18/Apr/14||Lead O/S||
|Andrew Barker||09/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
|Haydn Jones||29/Sep/12||2nd O/S||
|Martin Haworth||14/Aug/11||Lead O/S|
|Hannes B||09/Aug/11||Lead β|
|Jim Slater||07/Aug/11||AltLd O/S|
|Brian Rodgers||20/Jul/11||Lead O/S|
two falls, one on tiny footholds on lower face, one on crux
|Dan Lane||22/May/11||Lead O/S||
Good climbing although didnt feel anywhere near E2. Mid E1? one 5b move with good gear then a nice top wall up to the tree.
Top pitch, worth doing
Me P1 Mark P2. Both well worth doing.
|Phil Jennings||24/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Lower half definately the crux, upper half good steady climbing. Solid gear throughout...Upper wall much much better than it looks with loads of gear and holds.
firs on-sight E2 lead. Really enjoyed it.
Pete Brown and Dave
Interesting crux move. Found the upper wall is also worth doing.
Led both pitches.
|Alex Mason||26/Mar/09||Lead O/S||
Nice climbing on nice rock, shame about the eliminate nature of it?
|Tony Holdsworth||19/Mar/09||2nd O/S||
|ian caton||??/1995||Lead O/S||
Ed, Richard W
Failed to lead
|Rich Kirby||??/1989||Lead O/S|
|Stoney Boy||??/1987||Lead O/S||
John from London
|Bulls Crack||??/1985||Lead O/S||
lead with richard sanderson a little later
Andrew (Pog) Horn
Paul Clark, Bill McKee
Paul "Curly" Williamson
|Ian Jones||??/1980||Lead O/S||
Rich Lewis (a.k.a. 'Dick Hairs')