Rockfax Description
One of the classic test-pieces of the Peak which is a 'must do'. Polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years. Head diagonally right with testing moves to clip the old peg (beware of runners in the undercut; they may appear better than they are). Move up to the break, swing up and left and tackle the upper crack past an awkward-to-place runner.
The Great Leveller, E6 6b - Direct from the undercut flake on Bitterfingers via a painful mono move and long stretches. There is no gear once you leave the security of Bitterfingers. © Rockfax

FA. Gabriel Reagan, Geoff Birtles 1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

deacondeacon 18/Jul Lead RP

Dogged on Thursday, led clean today (just). 'Ard! A busy day in Bitterfingers bay.

eduardo 18/Jul TR dog

Couple of hard sequences!

with Ian W, Mark H
Nick1812P 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Calum harvey
Hidden 15/Jul Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jul Lead dnf
theomoore 09/Jun Lead rpt

Excellent route. Dogged up this last week. Felt much easier in better conditions - placed gear on lead.

Luke Dawson 05/Jun Lead O/S
Albert Exley 05/Jun 2nd dog

Just slipped of a foot hold after the peg...

LRob 31/May Lead G/U
harry_lewis 21/May Lead G/U

Happy to get this, done after a couple of unsuccessful attempts

jon_gill1 02/May TR dog

thought id see how this route felt after trying it years ago, managed to climb all sections free this time round,probably have cleaned it if i wasn't so tired and warmed up better.

Canyak ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Misha 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Yes! This has intimidated me long enough and somehow there has always been an excuse not to try it. May be just as well as need to be on form for this. Up to the undercut flake is fine and there's a (seemingly?) good friend there. Pumpy to place wire to the right in line with the peg seemed sensible. Fairly hard to the peg but could hand around once there. Peg getting on a bit so backed up with a cam 0.3. The next section is the crux. Already a bit tired but have to crank out a series do tough moves. I was thinking this feels like E5 if it goes on much longer but thankfully got to a half-decent rest. A good rest at the big flake soon follows. Spent a while there and did some up and down to have a look at the hard section above. Another 6a sequence awaits there, really good moves. Phew, made of! The hard to place wire is a faff, used one of Tom's small aliens - about cam 0.3 or slightly smaller. Great route, top end E4, have to go for it above gear but with one good rest and some not so good ones it's not too bad.

Duncan Campbell 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Mega! Very surprised and happy to onsight this, thought it would involve protracted ground-up scenes. 3 rest days defo helped. Found it hard and scary up to peg with the crux coming just after the peg to gain the break. After that it is sustained but very well protected. Very psyched. The runner in the top crack isn't that awkward to place and there is another above it.

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Just as hard as I remember it being!

Rachel Slater 22/Jul/14 Lead RP

Success on the re-match.

Rachel Slater 12/Jul/14 Lead dog

Made it up the first crack, tough but ok. Fully de-pumped on break, couldn't see where to place to "awkward runner" above and didn't want to commit without it. Eventually saw it and committed fine once it was in. Tough little cookie.. I will be back!

Olli-C 12/Jul/14 2nd dog
jmcc 08/May/14 Lead O/S


phildawson 05/May/14 2nd dog
tim newton 05/May/14 Lead RP

Tried this a month ago and fell off the crux onto the peg really pumped and retreated, convinced it was a total sandbag. Today couldn't have been much more different, found the crux pretty steady and got to the top without much pump.

Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead RP
tim newton 30/Mar/14 Lead dnf

climbed up to the peg, clipped it and put a wire in, but then was really pumped so down climbed the route back to the ground clean. Then went back up but still fell off the move above the peg. Did Fe Fi Fo Fum instead as I'd wasted enough time already.

Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Kevster 12/Aug/13 Lead RP

Failed OS due to foot pop. Gear is more than adequate.

tonevert 12/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Kevin Faux
Hannes B 30/Jul/13 Lead

1 rest

with Phil
markalmack 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Put shit loads of gear in up to the peg as none of it felt bomber. Hard moves above the peg, and then again into the thin crack higher up. A shame it's so polished, but still definitely worth climbing.

samt 25/Jun/13 Lead

At long last, after a slip 12 years ago and another last week

with Lucian
Haydn Jones 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! Top end of the grade but not E5.

with domonic
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 25/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
realbobsmith 24/Apr/13 TR β

regular training hit

captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Lead β
climbingsheep 30/Oct/12 2nd β
with Mike Watson
akhughes 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/12 -
dominic lee 24/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Joughton 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S

I've been wanting to do this for ages but I'd always saved it for when I felt good. Felt good today, and it went pretty easily apart from a stiff pull above the peg and a bit of a scare on the crack higher up. Truly classic!

Speeddemonsi 27/Jun/12 Lead
mwatson 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Gus 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Bob ??/2012 -
kingholmesy ??/2012 Lead β

Climbing it on Jake's gear after belaying him helped. The shower mid-route hindered.

with Jake O
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 Lead
J.Wells 28/Sep/11 Lead RP

need a ground up button - ground up

Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead β
Joe Costello 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
steve_yo ?/Jul/11 2nd
with steve f
alaan 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Butterfingers would be more appropriate.

with Will
Hannes B 19/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with Rik
Hidden 09/Jun/11 TR dnf
jon_gill1 08/Apr/11 TR dog
Hidden 08/Apr/11 TR dnf
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 TR
Hidden 16/Oct/10 TR β
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Matt Fry 30/Aug/10 Lead β

Absolutely brilliant, really enjoyed it.

with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko
Hidden 12/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Pumpy beast. rests are ok but climbing is quite sustained and strenuous for most of it (solid f7a). Had to really fight pump to get through the top crux through the mini roof, really pleased to get it!

Marti999 21/Jun/10 Lead dog

:-( fell on the last move,pumped out.

with Anna
miastacey ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Bob Smith
dav ??/2010 Lead O/S

lead this summertime in 2010 I think..

with Gill B
dan gibson 31/Oct/09 Lead RP
with anna barnes
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

An incredible route. Didn't second Alex up this when he did it two years ago and luckily had no memory of him climbing it. I tried it on Sunday - almost got to the peg but got spooked and downclimbed to the ground and took the gear out. Shouldn't have bothered as I was really nervous and convinced myself that all the low gear would blow out if I fell. Got back on it today and was very scared clipping the peg even though one of the many lower pieces of gear would have held. The moves from the peg to the break felt like the crux. The top crack had tricky footwork but was steady. I didn't bother with the hard-to-place runner as the previous runners are good.

sadams 05/Aug/09 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Franco Cookson OLD ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

uggy, uggy, uggy, Aid, Aid, Aid

Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Brown 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with John
skygodley 26/May/08 Lead RP

fell of this baby about four years ago, felt great today though!

Al Evans ??/2008 -
tuftynick ??/2008 2nd
with simon wilson
JulesV ??/2008 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 30/Aug/07 Lead

fell off at peg, climbed to the top pulled ropes and then lead clean on pre placed gear, with peg pre-clipped. need to climb placing gear next time im down.

Toby Dunn 24/Aug/07 Lead
with Ruth
Ian Broome 17/Aug/07 TR dog

Hard, would be a gripping lead!

Neil Adams 10/Jun/07 TR dog
with Andre & Adrian
Ram MkiV 19/Apr/07 Lead

2nd attempt: (3 days on) found previous point of failure annoyingly and strangely easy. Great pitch. 1st attempt (16/04/07): One fall from higher crux - failed to latch jug after slapping in pumped desperation. Didn't read the moves so well and nearly fell off around the first peg too. Could do better....

with Al
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/05 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 29/Apr/05 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
marcoleptic ??/2000 TR
Hidden ??/2000 -
Carl Smethurst 31/Oct/99 TR dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr 19/Jul/98 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/97 Lead rpt
goi.ashmore 09/Aug/97 Lead β
with James Tracey
Hidden 07/Jun/97 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/97 TR
Hidden 21/May/96 Lead dog
ste_d 13/Sep/95 Lead O/S
with mik
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
mikedelderfield 01/Sep/94 2nd β
Cowflinger ?/Sep/94 TR
Roget 27/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 -
mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 05/Jul/93 2nd
robyn1 ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1993 TR O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/90 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
uphillnow ?/Sep/89 2nd

probably with Pog

Hidden 20/Apr/89 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/89 Lead rpt
craig h ?/Oct/88 2nd O/S

Luke woke me up early as the forecast was bad, did this route, everyone was still asleep when we returned, so must have been up before 06.00

with Luke Steer
Hidden 30/Mar/88 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
shark 07/Nov/87 Lead
with Seb Grieve
Hidden ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 12/Sep/86 2nd
Neil R 07/Jun/86 2nd dog
with Ian
shark 05/Jun/86 Lead
with Chris
steve taylor ??/1986 2nd dnf
with jon reti
Hidden ?/Jun/85 Lead O/S
sadams 05/May/85 Lead rpt
with Chris Thwaites
shark 06/Apr/85 Lead dog
with Howard
neilh 06/Apr/85 2nd
with dave marsh
Mike Owen 20/Mar/85 Lead rpt
with Lew Brown
Chris Wright 19/Mar/85 Lead
Dave Musgrove 23/May/84 2nd
with Kim Greenald
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Mike Owen 06/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Phil Davidson
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead β

Fingery and pumpy.

with Neil McAdie
TonyF 01/May/82 2nd dog
with Tony Cox
Hidden ?/Dec/80 Lead RP
Mark Kemball 07/Jun/80 Lead

My first E4 lead.

with John Jefferies
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
derekb ??/1979 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, Hidden, dom94, Hidden, nai, Hidden, hobblingfool, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E5
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Votes cast 57
High 6b
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Low 6b
High 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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