Yes! This has intimidated me long enough and somehow there has always been an excuse not to try it. May be just as well as need to be on form for this. Up to the undercut flake is fine and there's a (seemingly?) good friend there. Pumpy to place wire to the right in line with the peg seemed sensible. Fairly hard to the peg but could hand around once there. Peg getting on a bit so backed up with a cam 0.3. The next section is the crux. Already a bit tired but have to crank out a series do tough moves. I was thinking this feels like E5 if it goes on much longer but thankfully got to a half-decent rest. A good rest at the big flake soon follows. Spent a while there and did some up and down to have a look at the hard section above. Another 6a sequence awaits there, really good moves. Phew, made of! The hard to place wire is a faff, used one of Tom's small aliens - about cam 0.3 or slightly smaller. Great route, top end E4, have to go for it above gear but with one good rest and some not so good ones it's not too bad.
Misha - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Tom Ripley
Mega! Very surprised and happy to onsight this, thought it would involve protracted ground-up scenes. 3 rest days defo helped. Found it hard and scary up to peg with the crux coming just after the peg to gain the break. After that it is sustained but very well protected. Very psyched. The runner in the top crack isn't that awkward to place and there is another above it.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Robbie
Just as hard as I remember it being!
Rob Greenwood - UKC - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/14 with Duncan Campbell
Success on the re-match.
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 22/Jul/14 with Duncan Campbell
Made it up the first crack, tough but ok. Fully de-pumped on break, couldn't see where to place to "awkward runner" above and didn't want to commit without it. Eventually saw it and committed fine once it was in. Tough little cookie.. I will be back!
Rachel Slater - Lead dog - 12/Jul/14 with Olli Crudge
Olli-C - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater
jmcc - Lead O/S - 08/May/14
phildawson - 2nd dog - 05/May/14 with Tim Newton
Tried this a month ago and fell off the crux onto the peg really pumped and retreated, convinced it was a total sandbag. Today couldn't have been much more different, found the crux pretty steady and got to the top without much pump.
tim newton - Lead RP - 05/May/14 with phil dawson
climbed up to the peg, clipped it and put a wire in, but then was really pumped so down climbed the route back to the ground clean. Then went back up but still fell off the move above the peg. Did Fe Fi Fo Fum instead as I'd wasted enough time already.
tim newton - Lead dnf - 30/Mar/14
Hidden - 2014
Hidden - 2014
Dan-Cheetham - 2014
mike mo - 2014
Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13
Failed OS due to foot pop. Gear is more than adequate.
Kevster - Lead RP - 12/Aug/13 with Tony Johnson
tonevert - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/13 with Kevin Faux
Hannes B - Lead - 30/Jul/13 with Phil
Put shit loads of gear in up to the peg as none of it felt bomber. Hard moves above the peg, and then again into the thin crack higher up. A shame it's so polished, but still definitely worth climbing.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with chris todd
Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/13
Fantastic route! Top end of the grade but not E5.
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with domonic
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13
Apharri - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Dave Wharton
regular training hit
realbobsmith - TR β - 24/Apr/13 with mia stacey
captain - 2013
ejected - Lead O/S - 2013
Nick Sillem - Lead β - 2013
climbingsheep - 2nd β - 30/Oct/12 with Mike Watson
akhughes - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12
Hidden - 10/Aug/12
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/12 with nathan lee
I've been wanting to do this for ages but I'd always saved it for when I felt good. Felt good today, and it went pretty easily apart from a stiff pull above the peg and a bit of a scare on the crack higher up. Truly classic!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12
Speeddemonsi - Lead - 27/Jun/12
mwatson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12
Gus - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12
Bob - 2012
Climbing it on Jake's gear after belaying him helped. The shower mid-route hindered.
kingholmesy - Lead β - 2012 with Jake O
Tony Kartawick - 2012
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2012
need a ground up button - ground up
J.Wells - Lead RP - 28/Sep/11 with Mark Rankine
Hidden - Lead β - 28/Jul/11
Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Matt
steve_yo - 2nd - Jul/11 with steve f
Butterfingers would be more appropriate.
alaan - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will
Hannes B - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11 with Rik
Hidden - TR dnf - 09/Jun/11
jon_gill1 - TR dog - 08/Apr/11 with Ian Stokes
Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Apr/11
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011
GeoffG - 2011
Hidden - Lead - 2011
phil64 - 2011
Hidden - TR - 16/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10
Absolutely brilliant, really enjoyed it.
Matt Fry - Lead β - 30/Aug/10 with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10
Pumpy beast. rests are ok but climbing is quite sustained and strenuous for most of it (solid f7a). Had to really fight pump to get through the top crux through the mini roof, really pleased to get it!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason
:-( fell on the last move,pumped out.
Marti999 - Lead dog - 21/Jun/10 with Anna
miastacey - Lead RP - Jun/10 with Bob Smith
TonyF - 2010
lead this summertime in 2010 I think..
dav - Lead O/S - 2010 with Gill B
dan gibson - Lead RP - 31/Oct/09 with anna barnes
An incredible route. Didn't second Alex up this when he did it two years ago and luckily had no memory of him climbing it. I tried it on Sunday - almost got to the peg but got spooked and downclimbed to the ground and took the gear out. Shouldn't have bothered as I was really nervous and convinced myself that all the low gear would blow out if I fell. Got back on it today and was very scared clipping the peg even though one of the many lower pieces of gear would have held. The moves from the peg to the break felt like the crux. The top crack had tricky footwork but was steady. I didn't bother with the hard-to-place runner as the previous runners are good.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Cat Black
sadams - 2nd - 05/Aug/09 with Eric Hildrew
uggy, uggy, uggy, Aid, Aid, Aid
Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with David Warburton
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08
Brown - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with John
fell of this baby about four years ago, felt great today though!
skygodley - Lead RP - 26/May/08
Al Evans - 2008
tuftynick - 2nd - 2008 with simon wilson
JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008
fell off at peg, climbed to the top pulled ropes and then lead clean on pre placed gear, with peg pre-clipped. need to climb placing gear next time im down.
Alex Mason - Lead - 30/Aug/07 with Andrew Barker
Toby Dunn - Lead - 24/Aug/07 with Ruth
Hard, would be a gripping lead!
Ian Broome - TR dog - 17/Aug/07 with Rich Wainwright
Neil Adams - TR dog - 10/Jun/07 with Andre & Adrian
2nd attempt: (3 days on)
found previous point of failure annoyingly and strangely easy. Great pitch.
1st attempt (16/04/07):
One fall from higher crux - failed to latch jug after slapping in pumped desperation. Didn't read the moves so well and nearly fell off around the first peg too. Could do better....
Ram MkiV - Lead - 19/Apr/07 with Al
Boy - 2006
Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/05
Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/05
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/05 with Nic Sellers
marcoleptic - TR - 2000
Hidden - 2000
Carl Smethurst - TR dog - 31/Oct/99
Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 19/Jul/98 with James Ibbertson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/98
Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/97
goi.ashmore - Lead β - 09/Aug/97 with James Tracey
Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jun/97
Hidden - TR - 13/Apr/97
Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/96
ste_d - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/95 with mik
Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe
mikedelderfield - 2nd β - 01/Sep/94 with Steven Delderfield
Cowflinger - TR - Sep/94 with Andy Sharp
Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/94
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Alan Holden
Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/93
robyn1 - 1993
Hidden - Lead - 1992
Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/90
keefe - 1990
Billg - Lead O/S - 1990
probably with Pog
David Smith - 2nd - Sep/89
Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/89
Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/89
Luke woke me up early as the forecast was bad, did this route, everyone was still asleep when we returned, so must have been up before 06.00
craig h - 2nd O/S - Oct/88 with Luke Steer
Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Mar/88
Paul Clarke - 1988 with Leeds Crew
shark - Lead - 07/Nov/87 with Seb Grieve
Hidden - 1987
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
pebblespanker - 2nd - 12/Sep/86 with Simon Lee
Neil R - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/86 with Ian
shark - Lead - 05/Jun/86 with Chris
steve taylor - 2nd dnf - 1986 with jon reti
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/85
sadams - Lead rpt - 05/May/85 with Chris Thwaites
shark - Lead dog - 06/Apr/85 with Howard
neilh - 2nd - 06/Apr/85 with dave marsh
Chris Wright - Lead - 19/Mar/85
Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 23/May/84 with Kim Greenald
Ian Clare - 1984
Mike Owen - 06/Nov/83 with Phil Davidson
Fingery and pumpy.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1983 with Neil McAdie
Hidden - Lead RP - Dec/80
My first E4 lead.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Jun/80 with John Jefferies
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980
EagerAndy - Lead - 1978
Hidden - 1973