Bitterfingers*** E4 6a
[Bitterfingers, 3 kb]20m.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic test-pieces of the Peak which is a 'must do'. Polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years. Head diagonally right with testing moves to clip the old peg (beware of runners in the undercut; they may appear better than they are). Move up to the break, swing up and left and tackle the upper crack past an awkward-to-place runner.
The Great Leveller, E6 6b - Direct from the undercut flake on Bitterfingers via a painful mono move and long stretches. There is no gear once you leave the security of Bitterfingers. © ROCKFAX

FA. Gabriel Reagan, Geoff Birtles 1976

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Bitterfingers © Patrick Daniel
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 148 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Dogged on Thursday, led clean today (just). 'Ard! A busy day in Bitterfingers bay.
deacondeacon - Lead RP - 18/Jul/15

Couple of hard sequences!
eduardo - TR dog - 18/Jul/15 with Ian W, Mark H

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/15 with Calum harvey

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/Jul/15

Excellent route. Dogged up this last week. Felt much easier in better conditions - placed gear on lead.
theomoore - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/15

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/15 with Alberte1996

Just slipped of a foot hold after the peg...
Alberte1996 - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/15 with Luke Dawson

LRob - Lead G/U - 31/May/15

Happy to get this, done after a couple of unsuccessful attempts
harry_lewis - Lead G/U - 21/May/15 with Matt Groom

thought id see how this route felt after trying it years ago, managed to climb all sections free this time round,probably have cleaned it if i wasn't so tired and warmed up better.
jon_gill1 - TR dog - 02/May/15 with anthony smith

Canyak - 2015

Yes! This has intimidated me long enough and somehow there has always been an excuse not to try it. May be just as well as need to be on form for this. Up to the undercut flake is fine and there's a (seemingly?) good friend there. Pumpy to place wire to the right in line with the peg seemed sensible. Fairly hard to the peg but could hand around once there. Peg getting on a bit so backed up with a cam 0.3. The next section is the crux. Already a bit tired but have to crank out a series do tough moves. I was thinking this feels like E5 if it goes on much longer but thankfully got to a half-decent rest. A good rest at the big flake soon follows. Spent a while there and did some up and down to have a look at the hard section above. Another 6a sequence awaits there, really good moves. Phew, made of! The hard to place wire is a faff, used one of Tom's small aliens - about cam 0.3 or slightly smaller. Great route, top end E4, have to go for it above gear but with one good rest and some not so good ones it's not too bad.
Misha - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Tom Ripley

Mega! Very surprised and happy to onsight this, thought it would involve protracted ground-up scenes. 3 rest days defo helped. Found it hard and scary up to peg with the crux coming just after the peg to gain the break. After that it is sustained but very well protected. Very psyched. The runner in the top crack isn't that awkward to place and there is another above it.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Robbie

Just as hard as I remember it being!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - 2nd rpt - 03/Aug/14 with Duncan Campbell

Success on the re-match.
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 22/Jul/14 with Duncan Campbell

Made it up the first crack, tough but ok. Fully de-pumped on break, couldn't see where to place to "awkward runner" above and didn't want to commit without it. Eventually saw it and committed fine once it was in. Tough little cookie.. I will be back!
Rachel Slater - Lead dog - 12/Jul/14 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater

jmcc - Lead O/S - 08/May/14

phildawson - 2nd dog - 05/May/14 with Tim Newton

Tried this a month ago and fell off the crux onto the peg really pumped and retreated, convinced it was a total sandbag. Today couldn't have been much more different, found the crux pretty steady and got to the top without much pump.
tim newton - Lead RP - 05/May/14 with phil dawson

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Apr/14

climbed up to the peg, clipped it and put a wire in, but then was really pumped so down climbed the route back to the ground clean. Then went back up but still fell off the move above the peg. Did Fe Fi Fo Fum instead as I'd wasted enough time already.
tim newton - Lead dnf - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13

Failed OS due to foot pop. Gear is more than adequate.
Kevster - Lead RP - 12/Aug/13 with Tony Johnson

tonevert - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/13 with Kevin Faux

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/13

Put shit loads of gear in up to the peg as none of it felt bomber. Hard moves above the peg, and then again into the thin crack higher up. A shame it's so polished, but still definitely worth climbing.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with chris todd

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/13

Fantastic route! Top end of the grade but not E5.
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with domonic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

Apharri - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Dave Wharton

regular training hit
realbobsmith - TR β - 24/Apr/13 with mia stacey

captain - 2013

ejected - Lead O/S - 2013

Nick Sillem - Lead β - 2013

climbingsheep - 2nd β - 30/Oct/12 with Mike Watson

akhughes - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12

Hidden - 10/Aug/12

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/12 with nathan lee

I've been wanting to do this for ages but I'd always saved it for when I felt good. Felt good today, and it went pretty easily apart from a stiff pull above the peg and a bit of a scare on the crack higher up. Truly classic!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12

Speeddemonsi - Lead - 27/Jun/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

Gus - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Bob - 2012

Climbing it on Jake's gear after belaying him helped. The shower mid-route hindered.
kingholmesy - Lead β - 2012 with Jake O

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - 2012

need a ground up button - ground up
J.Wells - Lead RP - 28/Sep/11 with Mark Rankine

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Jul/11

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Matt

steve_yo - 2nd - Jul/11 with steve f

Butterfingers would be more appropriate.
alaan - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - TR dnf - 09/Jun/11

jon_gill1 - TR dog - 08/Apr/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Apr/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

phil64 - 2011

Hidden - TR - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

Absolutely brilliant, really enjoyed it.
Matt Fry - Lead β - 30/Aug/10 with Mark Rankaine, Andy Janezko

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/10

Pumpy beast. rests are ok but climbing is quite sustained and strenuous for most of it (solid f7a). Had to really fight pump to get through the top crux through the mini roof, really pleased to get it!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

:-( fell on the last move,pumped out.
Marti999 - Lead dog - 21/Jun/10 with Anna

miastacey - Lead RP - Jun/10 with Bob Smith

lead this summertime in 2010 I think..
dav - Lead O/S - 2010 with Gill B

dan gibson - Lead RP - 31/Oct/09 with anna barnes

An incredible route. Didn't second Alex up this when he did it two years ago and luckily had no memory of him climbing it. I tried it on Sunday - almost got to the peg but got spooked and downclimbed to the ground and took the gear out. Shouldn't have bothered as I was really nervous and convinced myself that all the low gear would blow out if I fell. Got back on it today and was very scared clipping the peg even though one of the many lower pieces of gear would have held. The moves from the peg to the break felt like the crux. The top crack had tricky footwork but was steady. I didn't bother with the hard-to-place runner as the previous runners are good.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Cat Black

sadams - 2nd - 05/Aug/09 with Eric Hildrew

uggy, uggy, uggy, Aid, Aid, Aid
Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with David Warburton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Brown - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/08 with John

fell of this baby about four years ago, felt great today though!
skygodley - Lead RP - 26/May/08

Al Evans - 2008

tuftynick - 2nd - 2008 with simon wilson

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2008

fell off at peg, climbed to the top pulled ropes and then lead clean on pre placed gear, with peg pre-clipped. need to climb placing gear next time im down.
Alex Mason - Lead - 30/Aug/07 with Andrew Barker

Toby Dunn - Lead - 24/Aug/07 with Ruth

Hard, would be a gripping lead!
Ian Broome - TR dog - 17/Aug/07 with Rich Wainwright

Neil Adams - TR dog - 10/Jun/07 with Andre & Adrian

2nd attempt: (3 days on) found previous point of failure annoyingly and strangely easy. Great pitch. 1st attempt (16/04/07): One fall from higher crux - failed to latch jug after slapping in pumped desperation. Didn't read the moves so well and nearly fell off around the first peg too. Could do better....
Ram MkiV - Lead - 19/Apr/07 with Al

Boy - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/05 with Nic Sellers

marcoleptic - TR - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Carl Smethurst - TR dog - 31/Oct/99

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 19/Jul/98 with James Ibbertson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/97

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 09/Aug/97 with James Tracey

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jun/97

Hidden - TR - 13/Apr/97

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/96

ste_d - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/95 with mik

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

mikedelderfield - 2nd β - 01/Sep/94 with Steven Delderfield

Cowflinger - TR - Sep/94 with Andy Sharp

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/94

Hidden - 1994

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/93

robyn1 - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/90

keefe - 1990

Billg - Lead O/S - 1990

probably with Pog
uphillnow - 2nd - Sep/89

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/89

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/89

Luke woke me up early as the forecast was bad, did this route, everyone was still asleep when we returned, so must have been up before 06.00
craig h - 2nd O/S - Oct/88 with Luke Steer

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Mar/88

Hidden - 1988

shark - Lead - 07/Nov/87 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/86

Neil R - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/86 with Ian

shark - Lead - 05/Jun/86 with Chris

steve taylor - 2nd dnf - 1986 with jon reti

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/85

sadams - Lead rpt - 05/May/85 with Chris Thwaites

shark - Lead dog - 06/Apr/85 with Howard

neilh - 2nd - 06/Apr/85 with dave marsh

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/85 with Lew Brown

Chris Wright - Lead - 19/Mar/85

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - 23/May/84 with Kim Greenald

Ian Clare - 1984

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/83 with Phil Davidson

Fingery and pumpy.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1983 with Neil McAdie

TonyF - 2nd dog - 01/May/82 with Tony Cox

Hidden - Lead RP - Dec/80

My first E4 lead.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Jun/80 with John Jefferies

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

mitch1960 - Lead - 1980

Andy Edgar - Lead - 1978

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, dom94, hobblingfool

Total votes cast 158
hard E50 of 57
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