Rockfax Description
The right-hand groove gives steady, open climbing and bridging, on polished holds, with loads of gear. Amazingly, the route was originally graded Exceptionally Severe. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Moseley 1952

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, UK Classic Corners, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans.

rurp 22/Sep Lead O/S


with bill farmer
James Lowe 09/Aug Lead O/S

Holds everywhere. Gear everywhere. A couple of moves where you have to think and commit. Incredible. Loved it

with Fran
Hidden 10/May 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 30/Apr Lead rpt

Awsome and susstained 4c magnificent

with Kenneth North
Canyak ??/2015 -
georgenvk 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/14 2nd
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 11/Jul/14 -
Deezel65 09/Jul/14 2nd rpt

With Kyle

GermanAlex 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

no single hard move, but no easy ones either. thank God for the solid jams and bridging rests! the wall below has some recent rock scars, is loose as and dodgy. going up the big crack on the l.h.s. might be a better idea?

with Arno
Hardcore Pat 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie, Dan Osbasabooboo
Different Steve 21/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Jeremy
jshields 18/Jun/14 Lead

Previos lead.

TonyF 18/Jun/14 2nd
petegunn 08/Jun/14 Lead

Harder than it looks.

with Davina
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ash longreach ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 15/May/14 Lead rpt
Phill Mitch 27/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with bleggs
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead
Hoyes 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Jules Lane 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, slightly strenuous.

Batt 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
cragtyke 04/Mar/14 2nd
with Ross
Deezel65 04/Mar/14 Lead O/S

No walk in the park

Hidden ??/2014 -
Eagertom 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S

In spite of the crack the route follows I struggled from time to time placing gear. Big nuts were too small for the main line, far too big for anything else. Still, a good start to the day, and a nice view from the (well protected) belay seat.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
the power 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

1st peak limestone lead good fun

with deacon
Guy Wilson ?/Apr/13 2nd
with Gavin Moy, Rick Cotgreave
blaza1 ?/Apr/13 2nd
samt ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
Andrew Sloan 18/Nov/12 2nd rpt
with Tony Holdsworth
Tony Holdsworth 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Sloan
treg 08/Sep/12 2nd
with Lynsey
Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Tony Ryland 13/Aug/12 2nd
Andrew Lodge 13/Aug/12 2nd
with Steve
treg 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Unlike others, I found the lower wall below the start of the groove enjoyable and protectable, and neither was the climb too polished (especially compared to other routes at Stoney). Very enjoyable sustained VS 4c climbing with a couple of tricky moves around 2/3 of the way.

with Bird
rich_hw 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

The only thing that detracted from this route was my seconder complaining that I placed too much gear!!

Graeme Hammond 05/Jul/12 2nd rpt

good route but the leader was so unreasonable in wanting to stay safe and the proceeded to placed so much gear I had to take out... unfortunately we got caught in a massive thunder storm on the way down so the one and only route of the evening.

Fragmod 17/Jun/12 Lead
cragtyke 17/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 29/May/12 2nd
Milne 29/May/12 Lead O/S

found this a right battle, bit loose and very dirty in places.

Hedley 14/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/12 2nd
Marq 11/May/12 Lead dog

Did direct start and fell off when hold broke on the loose lower section!

David Kay 06/May/12 Lead O/S

First climb at stoney. Good sustained VS climbing.

Dan Lane 06/May/12 2nd O/S
cballard ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Holdsworth 11/Nov/11 Lead rpt

after this it got dark and the mist came down even lower.

with Tom Reed
Si dH 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Alison Ingleby
victim of mathematics 24/May/11 Lead O/S

Good, chunky climbing

bigbirdflying 23/May/11 Lead
with Chris Brook
James Oakes 21/May/11 Lead O/S

A really hard but quality VS.

mark20 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Mar/11 2nd
Andrew Sloan 04/Feb/11 Lead rpt

First 30 ft loose and poorly protected.The main groove is sustained 4c but well protected.

alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
cymjt ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
Hannes B 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Bella
Hoyes 10/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Batt 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Slippy as... Other than that pretty steady. Didn't seem to have a specific crux just lots of fairly sustained bridging on either glass or tiny edges, use the latter.

andrea83 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very good. Lots of gear. Started up the loose bit in front of route which wasn't so good

with Peak CC
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 01/Jul/10 2nd
with Alfie
Brian Rodgers 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd rpt
lucasp 12/Jun/10 Lead dog

The approach was loose and horrible. The route was sound but found it hard and intimidating so had to take a rest.

with kev (lmc)
tobydunford 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Sillum
Oliver Houston 21/May/10 Lead dog

Esoterical and I was already pumped...

Phil Jennings 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Anna Jennings, James Moneypenny
TonyF ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
simon1965 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with paul
Tony Holdsworth 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Mitchell, Rich Cutsforth
daveclarke5 04/Oct/09 Lead
with Andy
howlingbaboon 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Wid, Page
Ketu 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S

much better once i went up the the chimney to access the route (is this what the guide ment as the scramble??? its easy enough but not a scramble, previously tried to climb the loose wall directly under the route, almost did but backed off

with Rob
IAmAStone 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jefferson
Hidden 30/Jun/09 2nd
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/09 Lead
with Jane Rigby
Hidden 10/May/09 2nd rpt
Andy Peak 1 04/May/09 Lead O/S

good plenty of intrest all the way to the top

with liebor
Pilch 02/May/09 Lead O/S

An excellent pitch, getting to it is horribly loose though with no meaningful gear.

with Ed
EdShep 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Sankey 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great route, with a well positioned finish...escaping the polish as well

with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 26/Apr/09 2nd β
with Stephen
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
Phil1967 23/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Well protected but sustained VS - 4c after 4c

with Dan
smudge 23/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with Phil
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
jadm2 03/Aug/08 2nd
with Alan
Andrew Barker ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Month a guess.

with Jack Symmons
smudge 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Sustained climbing, fantastic route, not too polished!

with Will G
Hidden 20/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
BenJacobs 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Dw
Jim Slater 05/Jan/08 Lead dog

Tough VS. Rested on gear.

Hidden 05/Jan/08 2nd O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Alex Thompson 31/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hardonicus 31/Jul/07 Lead
Jack Symmons ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Andy B
Dave Mason 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Andrew Roach
Neil Adams 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Andre & Adrian
Hidden 19/May/07 2nd O/S
climber130887 19/May/07 Lead O/S
roberto18 14/Apr/07 2nd
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Sidekick ??/2007 Lead O/S
bigphil 16/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Calum
Nicos 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
robin heath 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S

nice route. polished hold in middle. dont bother climbing the loose/grassy stuff below, solo the big crack on the left to the ledge instead, (v,diff).

with Carl Riley
JulesW 12/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Nig
cem 26/Feb/06 2nd
Ben1983 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/04 2nd β
dicky79 ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Mike Bottomley
Urgles ?/Aug/03 2nd
with ???????????????
Brown ?/Jul/03 Lead
with Jessika
Hidden 11/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Phil West 18/Apr/03 Lead

One rest after the crux. Too early for this!

with Chris Tan
SteveM 01/Mar/03 Lead
with Tobs
dicky79 ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Eddie & Katie
Hidden ?/Aug/02 -
jamiev ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
Hidden 20/May/01 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
Rich Malcolm 16/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead
FrankW 16/May/98 Lead O/S
with Unknown
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
RobSimmo 05/Oct/97 2nd O/S
kato'sdad 05/Oct/97 Lead
CrashMat Rob 26/May/97 Lead O/S
with Terry
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 14/Apr/97 AltLd

Led the easy 1st picth.

with Richard Bower
Tim Bateman 30/Jul/95 2nd
Chris Ellis 05/Jul/95 Lead
with Rachel Nicolson
colin milton 07/May/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Daniel Wrightson 26/Feb/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Bradbury
leadmat ?/Feb/95 -
leadmat ?/Feb/95 Lead
Roget 09/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
marcoleptic ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Hank, Mel
John Marsland 18/Aug/93 Lead
with Darrell Small
Marti999 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Paul Ross
Budge ?/May/92 2nd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
rob.grafton 27/Oct/91 -
with Bruce
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/91 AltLd

Welcome to Shiney Middleton. V polished

with Graeme Jarvis
andy tetsill ?/Jul/91 Lead
with Joy
Neil R 13/Apr/90 2nd
with Howard
Hidden 08/Apr/89 Lead O/S
BigHairyIan 11/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with Mike Gibbison (Hairy)
steve prior ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Chris S
Hidden 17/May/88 Lead
Gary Coggon ?/Feb/88 2nd O/S
with Mike Block
Hidden ??/1988 -
steve taylor ??/1987 2nd dnf
with phil cockrell
Hidden ??/1987 -
simon parish ??/1987 Lead
Stoney Boy ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
Rob Davies ?/Apr/85 2nd
with Mick Moss
Hidden 17/Feb/85 Lead
Chris Wright 14/Feb/85 Lead
Simon2005 ??/1985 Lead O/S

Jim B pointed me up this, crapped my way up using nearly all my gear but a great climb and a good lead for me at the time

with KevG
malc 08/Jul/84 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/84 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/84 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Derek Shaw
babymoac 30/Jan/82 Lead
with MTW & Paul R
Bulls Crack ??/1982 Lead O/S
with RW
mark-abz 03/Oct/81 Lead
with Pete T
beaumap 09/Jun/81 Lead
with Bernie Green
telemark ??/1981 -
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
MikeDowsett ??/1981 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Hidden ?/Aug/80 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 21/Jun/80 Lead O/S


Nevil 04/Apr/80 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1980 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Chris Ellis 01/Jul/79 2nd
with Dave Crookes
tapley 29/Jul/78 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 08/Apr/78 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/78 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/76 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/76 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 08/May/76 Lead
with John
Mark Kemball 26/Apr/76 Lead
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
rogerskews ??/1976 Lead
Hidden 26/Jan/75 2nd
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
mikej 21/Mar/74 Lead
with Stewart Grant
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
mikej 09/Apr/72 Lead
with Barbara Sharratt, E
greenbuoy 26/May/71 Lead
with Bob Lister
lump'o'lead ??/1971 -

Beautiful route, just the right stuff for me. LOvely lovely jamming all the way.

with Jeremy Nightingale
bob@daysmill ??/1971 Lead β
mikej 04/Apr/70 Lead
with E, Martin Wragg
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -
jcw 11/May/69 -

Also Jan 1980 with Martin Harris. Also April 1981 with Mike Harrop

with David Unwin
Hidden 27/Apr/69 2nd
mikej 11/Apr/69 Lead
with Bill Church
Dave Musgrove 09/Mar/69 Lead
mikej 14/Sep/68 Lead dnf

Pouring with rain but I still climbed to the half way break before retreating.

with Nigel Sumner
mikej 12/May/68 2nd
with Nick West
mikej 28/Feb/68 Lead
with Brian Norris
uphillnow ??/1968 2nd

lead variously since

with Nigel Helliwell
mikej 25/Mar/67 Lead
with Ted Markham, Nigel Sumner
leathers ??/0000 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, James Urmston, DanChad, mapperley samurai, Hidden, Hidden, Allen3859, Hidden, Hidden, Conor1, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 56
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set