Dies Irae*** E2 5c
[Dies Irae, Stoney, 3 kb]20m.

Rockfax Description
Fine sustained face climbing through the bulges and thin crack above. Finish direct (maybe a bit loose, but much more satisfying) or traverse off left (along Alcasan). Top end of the grade. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Good climbing through the bulges and thin crack above. Finish direct (loose) or traverse off left (on Alcasan).


FA. Tom Proctor, M.Peters 1967

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Dies Irae, Stoney © John Marsland
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 181 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Mark Grist - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/15 with Tom Doldon

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/15

Lead on Theo's gear. Cracking route.
deacondeacon - Lead β - 16/Jun/15

Great route. the hard section is longer than the routes which start up Windhover, which makes it more interesting.
theomoore - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Deacon

Gambit - Lead dog - 11/Jun/15 with Mark Leicester

found the start very delicate then a huge amount of stamina to deal with the overlaps.
danielroymoss - TR - 10/Jun/15

Got pumped out of my mind on the first overlap and then got the fear higher up and traversed off! Boo.
mrteale - Lead - 09/Jun/15 with MrBlond

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/15 with Lewis Andrew

LRob - Lead G/U - 31/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/15

The other great Stoney E2
steveb2006 - Lead - 27/May/15 with David Andrew

bigdrew - Lead rpt - 21/May/15 with Ian Milward

markalmack - 2nd rpt - 10/May/15 with little tom

WB - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Charlotte

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Apr/15

Canyak - 2015

Found lower section easy but top section felt quite hard.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Pete Wimbush

apw - 2nd - 11/Sep/14 with Graham Hammond

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/14

jshields - Lead - 13/Aug/14 with George Salt, Jeff Ingman

climber34neil - 04/Aug/14

drysori - Lead O/S - Aug/14

eel - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Ian

Felt like a path doing this straight after Bitterfingers!
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater

ashtond6 - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14

Be aware, there's a large(ish)stone perched on the edge at the top. Was going to remove it on the way down but lowered off the route to the left and couldn't get back to it.
dav - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Gill B

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14

Gympaul - Jun/14

Ground up, first time i got flash pumped at the bulge and had to rest. Lowered off, pulled the ropes then did it. Quite sustained.
Si dH - Lead - 31/May/14 with Neil Furniss

Pretty cheeky!! Very high quality though, worth every 3 stars for sure!
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14 with Tom martin

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Nick Conway

tough pull low down, rude.
GuyVG - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Ben the rollerblader

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/14

Found the transishon beteween the bulges and the slab hard to read , went up wrog handed twice :-( a bit guted,
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 11/Mar/14 with Hayden Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/13

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with chris todd

Hidden - 2013

Seymore Butt - 2013

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2013

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Daniel Heath - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Remus

first trad fall in 3 years. bottom section more sustained than i was expecting, possibly a little ambitious after having a month off due to injury
catblack - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12 with Andy Barker

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/12 with Marc Weisner

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/12

Foot popped off mangey smear reaching for undercut on left at overlap. Touched ground on rope stretch and had it clean second go so claiming ground up! Great sustained face climbing after the bulge and a touch bold up top.
Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 04/Aug/12 with Robin, Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Nails.
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Si, Dave Foster

JulesV - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Shauna Cunningham

Lead as a "warm up". Backed off after doing the hard stuff.. Too much sport. Quality route!
JRae - 2nd - 11/May/12 with M Scott

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Got quite cold on this, the two finger pocket low down was particularly painful... definitely top end E2
Joughton - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12

Sean Kelly - 2012

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Sep/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with loundsy

nai - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Andrew

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Rich R

steve_yo - 2nd - 13/Aug/11 with smacks

andy gittins - 2nd - Aug/11 with T Raffle

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/11

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Rankine

Pretty much cruised this. A few stiff pulls to get to the break, fairly obvious moving through the bulge (just don't hang around), then an excellent balancy head wall. Slightly spoiled by a grotty finish but that's just the last few metres, otherwise the rock is pretty solid, so not sure the left hand finish makes much sense. Don't think this should be at the top of the Rockfax E2 graded list.
Misha - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark

Previously led O/S
ellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Tom Bridgeland

Chris Wright - Lead - 29/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11 with Tom

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2011 with Andy S

Fab route, very sustained. Left hand finish.
smudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Will Kelsall

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Ben Dorey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/10

mattyork2 - 2nd - 16/Jun/10 with Nick Rabb

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Gary Wheeler

Didn't remember it being that hard, was nails! Proper sandbagged Mike when I told him it was easy...
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 07/May/10 with Mike

TonyF - 2010

Clean
galpinos - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Ben T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with guy, andy, al

Flash, on steves gear at the end of the day, great route, hard.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 19/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Tom Ramsden

willackers - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Rob Napier

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - Jul/09

Val doesnt second
steveb2006 - Lead - 20/Jun/09 with Valerie Partington

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Stephen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/09

Very good climbing all the way.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Matt Bennett

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/08

alaan - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Fran, Ben and Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Nick Willis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08

Val belays only
steveb2006 - Lead - 25/May/08 with Valerie Partington

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Luke Hunt

Al Evans - 2008

JulesV - Lead rpt - 2008 with toby dunn

Brown - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/07 with Tom Walker

Rains at top
steveb2006 - Lead - 19/Jun/07 with Roland Smith

Boy - 2006

nige - Lead - 30/Oct/04 with nick colton

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/04 with Simon Wren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

steveb2006 - Lead - 02/Jun/04 with Paul Ramsden

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/04

steveb2006 - Lead - 03/Jun/03 with Paul Eastwood

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/02

terrified on this!
jamiev - Lead O/S - Apr/02 with Adrian Berry

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 08/Dec/01 with Ian Pickles

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 08/Jul/01 with Ian Pickles

After Pete fails on Windhover
steveb2006 - Lead - 29/Apr/01 with Pete Carter

steveb2006 - Lead - 08/Aug/00 with Roland Smith

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Nick Fortey belays
steveb2006 - Lead - 25/Sep/99

GeoffG - Lead - 22/May/99

Rob needs 2 rests but still a good effort
steveb2006 - 2nd - 11/Jun/98 with Rob Gambles

steveb2006 - Lead - 21/May/96 with Rob Gambles

ste_d - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/95 with mik

steveb2006 - Lead - 10/May/94 with Jo Pycroft

steveb2006 - Lead - 06/Mar/93 with Mike Pycroft

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/92 with colin

whispering nic - Jul/92 with Graham Iles

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/91

steveb2006 - Lead - 23/Mar/91 with Simon Mee

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

One rest to remove runner at overhang.
Neil R - 2nd - 21/Apr/90 with Howard

Rich Kirby - 2nd - Feb/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

steveb2006 - Lead - 12/Nov/89 with Simon Mee

John Marsland - 2nd - 17/Jul/88 with Dave Soles

steveb2006 - Lead - 21/Jun/88 with Chris Grafton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/88

Hidden - 1988

shark - Lead - 08/Nov/87 with Seb Grieve

Led after Gez fails
steveb2006 - Lead - 07/Jun/87 with Gez Morgan, Mervyn Dudley

Billg - Lead O/S - 04/May/87 with Dave Gregory

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - May/87

Hidden - 20/Apr/87

uphillnow - 2nd - 27/Mar/87 with Luke Steer

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 26/Mar/87 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - 1987

keefe - 29/Nov/86

steveb2006 - Lead - 25/Jul/86 with Gary Burton

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/86

John Marsland - Lead - 14/Jun/86

neilh - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/86 with dave marsh

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Jan/86

Chris Wright - Lead - 01/Aug/85

sadams - 2nd - 30/Jul/85 with Robin Curley

shark - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/85 with Mark Mitchell

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/85

sadams - 2nd - 18/May/85 with John from London

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 08/Apr/85 with Dave Bartle

sadams - Lead - 05/Apr/85

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1985 with RW

Ian Clare - 1984

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1983

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/82 with Kev H

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1982 with Merv Dudley

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 13/May/81 with Eric Rooseberry

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/81

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 26/Apr/80 with Tim Leech

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

mitch1960 - Lead - 1980

Steve Bell - 1979

Andy Edgar - Lead - 1978

Held Tom's rope on the first free ascent, 1973/4, but had to use the aid peg myself. Lead free in 75. Got a slide somewhere from the FFA...
petemeads - Lead - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Calder, derekb

Voting
Total votes cast 134
hard E30 of 52
E30 of 52
easy E39 of 52
hard E231 of 52
E212 of 52
easy E20 of 52
hard E10 of 52
E10 of 52
easy E10 of 52
hard 6a0 of 46
6a0 of 46
easy 6a0 of 46
hard 5c1 of 46
5c44 of 46
easy 5c1 of 46
hard 5b0 of 46
5b0 of 46
easy 5b0 of 46
3 Stars22 of 36
2 Stars14 of 36
1 Star0 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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