Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Dies Irae** E2 5c

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[Dies Irae, Stoney, 3 kb]20m. Fine sustained face climbing through the bulges and thin crack above. Finish direct (maybe a bit loose, but much more satisfying) or traverse off left (along Alcasan). Top end of the grade. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tom Proctor, M.Peters 1967

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Dies Irae, Stoney © John Marsland
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 162 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Found lower section easy but top section felt quite hard.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Pete Wimbush

apw - 2nd - 11/Sep/14 with Graham Hammond

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/14

jshields - Lead - 13/Aug/14 with George Salt, Jeff Ingman

climber34neil - 04/Aug/14

drysori - Lead O/S - Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14

Felt like a path doing this straight after Bitterfingers!
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/14 with Rachel Slater

ashtond6 - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14

Be aware, there's a large(ish)stone perched on the edge at the top. Was going to remove it on the way down but lowered off the route to the left and couldn't get back to it.
dav - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Gill B

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14

Gympaul - Jun/14

Ground up, first time i got flash pumped at the bulge and had to rest. Lowered off, pulled the ropes then did it. Quite sustained.
Si dH - Lead - 31/May/14 with Neil Furniss

Pretty cheeky!! Very high quality though, worth every 3 stars for sure!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14 with Tom martin

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Nick Conway

tough pull low down, rude.
GuyVG - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Ben the rollerblader

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/14

Found the transishon beteween the bulges and the slab hard to read , went up wrog handed twice :-( a bit guted,
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 11/Mar/14 with Hayden Jones

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/13

markalmack - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with chris todd

Hidden - 2013

Seymore Butt - 2013

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Daniel Heath - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Remus

first trad fall in 3 years. bottom section more sustained than i was expecting, possibly a little ambitious after having a month off due to injury
catblack - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12 with Andy Barker

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/12 with Marc Weisner

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/12

Foot popped off mangey smear reaching for undercut on left at overlap. Touched ground on rope stretch and had it clean second go so claiming ground up! Great sustained face climbing after the bulge and a touch bold up top.
Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 04/Aug/12 with Robin, Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12

Nails.
robin_hackney - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Si, Dave Foster

JulesV - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Shauna Cunningham

Lead as a "warm up". Backed off after doing the hard stuff.. Too much sport. Quality route!
JRae - 2nd - 11/May/12 with M Scott

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Tom

Got quite cold on this, the two finger pocket low down was particularly painful... definitely top end E2
Joughton - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12

Sean Kelly - 2012

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Sep/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with loundsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Rich R

steve_yo - 2nd - 13/Aug/11 with smacks

andy gittins - 2nd - Aug/11 with T Raffle

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/11

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Rankine

Pretty much cruised this. A few stiff pulls to get to the break, fairly obvious moving through the bulge (just don't hang around), then an excellent balancy head wall. Slightly spoiled by a grotty finish but that's just the last few metres, otherwise the rock is pretty solid, so not sure the left hand finish makes much sense. Don't think this should be at the top of the Rockfax E2 graded list.
Misha - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark

Previously led O/S
ellis - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Tom Bridgeland

Chris Wright - Lead - 29/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11 with Tom

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2011 with Andy S

Fab route, very sustained. Left hand finish.
smudge - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Will Kelsall

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Ben Dorey

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/10

mattyork2 - 2nd - 16/Jun/10 with Nick Rabb

Nicos - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Gary Wheeler

Didn't remember it being that hard, was nails! Proper sandbagged Mike when I told him it was easy...
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 07/May/10 with Mike

TonyF - 2010

Clean
galpinos - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Ben T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/09 with guy, andy, al

Flash, on steves gear at the end of the day, great route, hard.
Alex Mason - Lead β - 19/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Tom Ramsden

willackers - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Rob Napier

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - Jul/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/09

Sankey - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Stephen

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/09

Very good climbing all the way.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Matt Bennett

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/08

alaan - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Fran, Ben and Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/08 with Nick Willis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/08

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Luke Hunt

Al Evans - 2008

JulesV - Lead rpt - 2008 with toby dunn

Brown - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/07 with Tom Walker

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/07

Boy - 2006

nige - Lead - 30/Oct/04 with nick colton

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/04 with Simon Wren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/02

terrified on this!
jamiev - Lead O/S - Apr/02 with Adrian Berry

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 08/Dec/01 with Ian Pickles

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 08/Jul/01 with Ian Pickles

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/00

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/99

GeoffG - Lead - 22/May/99

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/98

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/96

ste_d - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/95 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/94

Hidden - Lead - 06/Mar/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/92 with colin

whispering nic - Jul/92 with Graham Iles

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/91

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

One rest to remove runner at overhang.
Neil R - 2nd - 21/Apr/90 with Howard

Rich Kirby - 2nd - Feb/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/89

John Marsland - 2nd - 17/Jul/88 with Dave Soles

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/88

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/88

Hidden - 1988

shark - Lead - 08/Nov/87 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 04/May/87 with Dave Gregory

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - May/87

Hidden - 20/Apr/87

David Smith - 2nd - 27/Mar/87 with Luke Steer

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 26/Mar/87 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - 1987

keefe - 29/Nov/86

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/86

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/86

John Marsland - Lead - 14/Jun/86

neilh - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/86 with dave marsh

pebblespanker - Lead β - 01/Jan/86 with Andy Ravenhill

Chris Wright - Lead - 01/Aug/85

sadams - 2nd - 30/Jul/85 with Robin Curley

shark - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/85 with Mark Mitchell

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/85

sadams - 2nd - 18/May/85 with John from London

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 08/Apr/85 with Dave Bartle

sadams - Lead - 05/Apr/85

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1985 with RW

Ian Clare - 1984

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1983

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/82 with Kev H

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1982 with Merv Dudley

Mike Owen - 13/May/81 with Eric Rooseberry

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/81

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/80

Mark Kemball - Lead - 26/Apr/80 with Tim Leech

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1979

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Calder, Hidden, Hidden, derekb

Voting
Total votes cast 123
hard E30 of 48
E30 of 48
easy E38 of 48
hard E230 of 48
E210 of 48
easy E20 of 48
hard E10 of 48
E10 of 48
easy E10 of 48
hard 6a0 of 42
6a0 of 42
easy 6a0 of 42
hard 5c1 of 42
5c41 of 42
easy 5c0 of 42
hard 5b0 of 42
5b0 of 42
easy 5b0 of 42
3 Stars21 of 33
2 Stars12 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Lead98 of 162 (60.5%)
Followed43 of 162 (26.5%)
Alt Leads2 of 162 (1.2%)
Unknown19 of 162 (11.7%)

'Climbed'78 of 162 (48.1%)
clean O/S69 of 162 (42.6%)
clean β3 of 162 (1.9%)
clean rpt9 of 162 (5.6%)
dogged2 of 162 (1.2%)
dnf1 of 162 (0.6%)