Rockfax Description
The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have done it, but at least there are good wires. At the top, a crack gives limestone hand jams in a fine position. It originally finished round to the right of the arete up an easy but tottery groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The arete climbed on its left-hand side is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have done it, but there are good wires. At the top a, crack gives limestone hand jams in a fine position.

FA. Barry Webb 1960. FAA. D.Mellor, D.Johnson 1960

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Brannock 17/Oct 2nd
Andrew Sloan 12/Sep 2nd dnf

Couldn't touch the starting move....solid 6a surely?

with John Brannock, Martin Haworth
theomoore 06/Sep Lead β
Sam Simpson 25/Jun Lead O/S
with Paul Wood, Tom Doldon
John Jefferies 17/Jun 2nd dog
with Dominic Oughton, Andy Stewart
Brannock 04/Jun Lead rpt

With new harder start! Bit harder now its lost some of the block, will get a whole lot harder when rest of the wobbly block goes. Bolder up to the first ledge now the peg has gone as well, might be possible to get a nut in but doubt it would be very good and pumpy to place.

davewsargent 13/May Lead dnf

PEG HAS BLOWN( on me back to the ground at speed whilst resting before moving on !) at 3m effects all 3 routes with this start definitely changes grades unless replaced !

with andy neath
manwithacam 21/Mar 2nd

Start is hard to onsight, I had to rest to get gear out, and there seems to be a crucial crimp that cant be seen from below

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 21/Mar Lead RP

Hard start. It took a while to work out the sequence. I pulled 3 big chunks of loose rock. A crucial foothold is still there but very loose. I was pumped after the start which that made the remainder of the route a bit exciting.

Canyak ??/2015 -
Hidden 19/Nov/14 2nd dog
Jake Young 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Start isn't that hard and is perfectly protected. Then it's jugs of justice all the way to the top. HVS/E1 max?

with Alan PD
Rachel Slater 16/Jul/14 Lead RP

Fell off the start when I seconded this years ago.

with Sian Angharad
sian88 16/Jul/14 2nd RP
MartinPL 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

e2 ?

Brannock 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
ashtond6 26/Jun/14 Lead dnf

that start.... wtf. Miles harder than scoop wall!

john lynch 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jim, adam harrison
dom94 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Martin Wing
Brannock 16/Feb/14 Lead rpt

Got 2014 E points off to a start, E1 6a?.

Phill Mitch 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Had a go at the start years ago and could not do it, I can now so will be back for more E2 action off the same start.

with bleggs
James Oswald 25/Sep/13 Lead RP

After repeatedly trying the start before. Still really hard. It would be E2 6a if higher up. Great HVS/ E1 climbing afterwards.

with James Rees
Stig 25/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with james oswald
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
alasdair19 ?/Aug/13 Lead

took a while figuring the crux, 2nd visit but didn't weight the wire this time. did take off some gear and then pull it up though!

Hidden 22/Jul/13 2nd rpt
J.Wells 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ima Nahumury
Ian Broome 12/Jul/13 Lead

Muffed the start then next go. Was a bit warm. Good route though.

with Chris
Andy Peak 1 15/Jun/13 Lead

Climbing like a nob after three week lay off! Forams shut down from over griping on the top crack:-( bottom move clean after a few half harted atempts

with Andrew Deckon
blaza1 22/May/13 Lead O/S
Apharri 06/May/13 2nd β
with Dave Wharton
samt ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
simon kimber ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Gabriel Morrison
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead
Andrew Sloan 18/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Tried to work the initial boulder problem. Unfortunately not strong enough at the moment and didn't reach the peg. English 6a.

with Tony Holdsworth
Haydn Jones 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Brannock 18/Nov/12 Lead RP

Took few goes to work out the start, E1 6a? Good climbing above.

Matt Cooke 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
akhughes 14/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice bouldery start, not that hard if you get the sequence right. Good exposed route after that.

with Si 2
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
nai 05/Jul/12 Lead β

Had just followed Armegeddon so no onsight but lead clean from ground, did crux a much better and easier way this time though.

with Andrew
Graeme Hammond 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Great, start seemed straight forward today. Did the correct finish up the crack too as Tom finished up the easier arÍte last time.

deacondeacon 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Have done the start before when climbing another route.

James Oswald 10/Jun/12 2nd RP

Backed off as first route of day (rest of stoney was wet). Duncan then cruised it. Tough start.

with Duncan
drysori 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dunc
Hidden 31/Mar/12 -
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hannes B 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Tom
Marti999 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Graham C 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Marti
Joughton 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S

As others have said, the start is pretty strenuous, but after that it's really nice, chilled climbing with bomber gear (and too many pegs) in a great position. Crack was a bit wet at the top though...

Hannes B 07/Oct/11 2nd
with Mike
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
roberto18 20/Aug/11 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 20/Aug/11 2nd

desperate start!Rob did well to clip the 1st peg with no wires in below it.he must have been pumped because he laced it thereafter,ha ha. super route after that first bulge,good holds and moves but was really pumped after the start.

richardr 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

hard first move, brilliant romp to the top after that, barely placed any gear

with oaksi2
James Oakes 01/Aug/11 2nd rpt
andy gittins ?/Aug/11 2nd
with T Raffle
drcorbasisgod 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
cem 24/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson
simon1965 22/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Tim
chrism225 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S

foot slipped but i think i held it without weighting the rope.

with jonny
JRae 12/Jul/11 Lead

Toughest bit was working out where to go at the bottom.

robw007 27/Jun/11 AltLd β
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Spent 'quite' a while sussing out a workable sequence for the start. Went ok when I did eventually commit to a push for it. Maybe it is HVS after that?? but the whole thing feels mighty dramatic!

lidiaMalecka 31/May/11 2nd O/S
rikbattye 31/May/11 Lead O/S
James Oakes 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Garry Jackson
kingholmesy ??/2011 2nd

Took a couple of goes to get off the ground.

with Andy S
Gambit 20/Nov/10 Lead β

Lead clean after one fall from the bottom. My first windy ledge route, will be back for more

with Barney
Hidden 20/Nov/10 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd
bigdrew 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead
PeteH 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Only deserves E1 I reckon - a safe 5c move at the start, and an awkward but safe 5b/c move on the jamming crack toward the top.

mark20 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Sussed the start

masa-alpin 12/Sep/10 2nd dog

Mark lead. I could not the initial crux move, and used a shoulder of a climber waiting for us...

Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Neil Adams 14/Aug/10 Lead dog

Had to aid past the crux. Brutal! The arete above is nice though

Adam Moroz 17/Jul/10 2nd

nice moves and rock.

with john (Krank)
pabbage 06/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 06/Jun/10 2nd dog

very hard start. had to aid it

with Nigel Slater
Graeme Hammond 06/Jun/10 2nd rpt

fell off a few times of the start tired from the previous route, but once figured out I climbed it clean from bottom to top.

thomasadixon 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Bit confused about where to go at the top...should have read the guide!

with Graeme
Dan Jenkin 13/May/10 2nd O/S
with James, Chris Barr
Chris_barr 13/May/10 2nd O/S
with Dan, James
robw007 ?/May/10 Lead β

original finish

robw007 ?/May/10 Lead β

Direct finish

Ollie B 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
mark20 21/Apr/10 2nd rpt

2 falls (1 on lead) then clean.

Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Birdo ?/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
James Oswald ??/2010 2nd RP

Awesome. Took a couple of moves to do the bouldery start.

Martin Haworth 11/Oct/09 Lead

Pulled on runner at the start. HVS after that.

with richard white
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

A bit of an unbalanced route but nice moves. The crux is fairly straightforward if you hit the right sequence.

galpinos 12/Sep/09 2nd


with Ben T
Hidden 06/Sep/09 -
vanderz ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
duzinga 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Pete Brown and Dave
Chris the Tall 02/Jul/09 2nd

One fall off the start, went back to the ground but suspect the tight rope may have helped !

with Matt B
Hidden 02/Jul/09 Lead rpt
smudge 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Phil
Hidden 27/May/09 Lead rpt
Mick r 21/Dec/08 Lead dnf

couldn't work out the start - steady HVS after that

with Martin
Hidden 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S
skygodley 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Wow! What a full on start!

Hidden 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Nicos 08/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with rich mansfield
IanJackson 02/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Luke Hunt
willackers 23/Feb/08 2nd β
with Tom Mills
lukehunt ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ian Jackson
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
thebigfriendlymoose 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead dog
Mick B 19/May/07 Lead O/S
with Guy Tooth
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 02/May/07 2nd
tom.e 02/May/07 Lead O/S
Rjukan 02/May/07 2nd
with Pete
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 18/Jun/06 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Ben1983 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
shark 04/Dec/04 Lead rpt
with Mark Hundleby
Hidden 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
robin heath 17/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Carl Riley
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Lead β
Urgles ?/Aug/03 Lead
with sean dark matter
Hidden 29/Mar/02 Lead
Carl Smethurst 08/Dec/01 Lead β
with Ian Pickles
Brown 19/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Have also climbed it via its original indirect finish.

DubyaJamesDubya 29/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
goi.ashmore 22/Aug/00 Lead β
with Kaspar Martin
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Pete
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 24/Jul/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles
GeoffG 22/May/99 Lead
Carl Smethurst 15/May/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
ste_d 13/Sep/95 Lead O/S
with mik
Roget 11/Dec/94 Lead rpt
with jon
mikedelderfield 01/Sep/94 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/93 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/93 2nd
mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Scott Abraham, Alan Holden
Roget 12/Sep/92 2nd O/S
with colin
Billg 25/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Chris Wiffen
whispering nic ?/Jul/92 -
with Graham Iles
Steve Crowe 03/May/92 Lead O/S
with KM
Gary Coggon 01/May/92 Lead O/S

With THE. 2nd: Bog.

with Bog
Mick King 31/Jan/92 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Hidden 23/Mar/91 2nd
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
Rich Kirby ?/Feb/90 Lead O/S
neilh ?/Oct/89 2nd
Bulls Crack ??/1989 2nd
with RW
Chris Wright 18/Sep/88 Lead
John Marsland 16/Jul/88 2nd
with Dave Soles
surfbish ?/Feb/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 -
Stoney Boy 25/Oct/87 Lead O/S
AlanLittle 31/May/87 Lead
with Carl Blakeley
Hidden 23/May/87 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
keefe 29/Nov/86 -
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
rob.grafton ??/1986 AltLd
with barry maybank
Neil R 24/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Richard W
Mike Owen 15/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
Gezzer ??/1983 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
charlesmfrench 01/Aug/82 2nd O/S
mark-abz 08/May/82 Lead
with Walter P
KRB 03/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Neil Gregory
tapley 30/May/81 Lead
with Chris Seymour
Ian Jones ??/1981 -
with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
ewar woowar ??/1981 -
MikeDowsett ??/1981 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Chris Terrey ??/1980 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Chris Ellis 04/Sep/79 2nd
with Dave Crookes
Hidden 15/Jun/79 AltLd O/S
jcw 10/Jun/79 -
with Martin Harris
uphillnow 05/May/79 Lead

done before as second

with Al Bennett
Hidden ?/Jan/79 2nd
rogerskews 03/Sep/78 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
Nigel Bond 07/Jul/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Mark Kemball 16/Jul/76 Lead

VS back then, has something fallen off?

with Bill Wheeler
Hidden 03/Jun/76 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/75 2nd
petemeads ??/1975 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1975 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
mikej 21/May/74 Lead
with E
Andy Say ??/1974 Lead O/S
Dave Westby ??/1972 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
lump'o'lead ??/1971 -
bob@daysmill ??/1971 2nd

There was a peg and sling in place for the first move back then!

Dave Musgrove 20/Jul/69 AltLd
Tom V ??/1969 -
mikej 02/Mar/68 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, derekb, Simon Davenport, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 56
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set