Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Windhover** E2 5c

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[Colin - style guru (Hanwag boots and Javelin Fleece), Stoney 1980s. Probably Parkey on the other end of the rope!, 4 kb]2m. The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have done it, but at least there are good wires. At the top, a crack gives limestone hand jams in a fine position. It originally finished round to the right of the arete up an easy but tottery groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Barry Webb 1960. FAA. D.Mellor, D.Johnson 1960

Photo: Colin - style guru (Hanwag boots and Javelin Fleece), Stoney 1980s. Probably Parkey on the other end of the rope! © Chris Craggs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Climbing like a nob after three week lay off! Forams shut down from over griping on the top crack:-( bottom move clean after a few half harted atempts
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 15/Jun/13 with Andrew Deckon

blaza1 - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with Mike Watson

Apharri - 2nd β - 06/May/13 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Tried to work the initial boulder problem. Unfortunately not strong enough at the moment and didn't reach the peg. English 6a.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dnf - 18/Nov/12 with Tony Holdsworth

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

Took few goes to work out the start, E1 6a? Good climbing above.
Brannock - Lead RP - 18/Nov/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12

Nice bouldery start, not that hard if you get the sequence right. Good exposed route after that.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Si 2

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12

Had just followed Armegeddon so no onsight but lead clean from ground, did crux a much better and easier way this time though.
nai - Lead β - 05/Jul/12 with Andrew

Great, start seemed straight forward today. Did the correct finish up the crack too as Tom finished up the easier arête last time.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Richard

Have done the start before when climbing another route.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

Backed off as first route of day (rest of stoney was wet). Duncan then cruised it. Tough start.
James Oswald - 2nd RP - 10/Jun/12 with Duncan

Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Dunc

Hidden - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/12

Hannes B - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Tom

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Graham C - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Marti

As others have said, the start is pretty strenuous, but after that it's really nice, chilled climbing with bomber gear (and too many pegs) in a great position. Crack was a bit wet at the top though...
Joughton - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12

Hannes B - 2nd - 07/Oct/11 with Mike

loundsy - 2nd β - 03/Sep/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with loundsy

roberto18 - Lead - 20/Aug/11 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

desperate start!Rob did well to clip the 1st peg with no wires in below it.he must have been pumped because he laced it thereafter,ha ha. super route after that first bulge,good holds and moves but was really pumped after the start.
mike bridges - 2nd - 20/Aug/11 with Robert Bridges

richardr - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

hard first move, brilliant romp to the top after that, barely placed any gear
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with oaksi2

James Oakes - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/11 with Bill Lawrence

andy gittins - 2nd - Aug/11 with T Raffle

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Charles Moreton, David Gilling

cem - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson

simon1965 - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/11 with Tim

foot slipped but i think i held it without weighting the rope.
chrism225 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with jonny

Toughest bit was working out where to go at the bottom.
JRae - Lead - 12/Jul/11 with C Middleton

robw007 - AltLd β - 27/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11

Spent 'quite' a while sussing out a workable sequence for the start. Went ok when I did eventually commit to a push for it. Maybe it is HVS after that?? but the whole thing feels mighty dramatic!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11

lidiaMalecka - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with lidiaMalecka

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Brad Cowley

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Garry Jackson

Took a couple of goes to get off the ground.
kingholmesy - 2nd - 2011 with Andy S

Lead clean after one fall from the bottom. My first windy ledge route, will be back for more
Gambit - Lead β - 20/Nov/10 with Barney

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Mark R

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/10

Brilliant. Only deserves E1 I reckon - a safe 5c move at the start, and an awkward but safe 5b/c move on the jamming crack toward the top.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Mike Grant

Sussed the start
mark20 - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

Mark lead. I could not the initial crux move, and used a shoulder of a climber waiting for us...
masa-alpin - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10 with Mark Ra, James O

Bart Shaw - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Jon

Had to aid past the crux. Brutal! The arete above is nice though
Neil Adams - Lead dog - 14/Aug/10 with Martin Haworth

nice moves and rock.
Adam Moroz - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with john (Krank)

pabbage - 2nd - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10

very hard start. had to aid it
r fizzle - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/10 with Nigel Slater

fell off a few times of the start tired from the previous route, but once figured out I climbed it clean from bottom to top.
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Thomas Dixon

Bit confused about where to go at the top...should have read the guide!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Graeme

Dan Jenkin - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with James, Chris Barr

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with Dan, James

original finish
robw007 - Lead β - May/10

Direct finish
robw007 - Lead β - May/10

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with S.Bennett

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10

2 falls (1 on lead) then clean.
mark20 - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/10

liam - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Mark R

Birdo - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with Dave Bird

TonyF - 2010

Took a few down climbs before getting established. well over kill on the pegs.
Andrew.Davies - Lead O/S - 2010 with aaron

Awesome. Took a couple of moves to do the bouldery start.
James Oswald - 2nd RP - 2010

Pulled on runner at the start. HVS after that.
Martin Haworth - Lead - 11/Oct/09 with richard white

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

A bit of an unbalanced route but nice moves. The crux is fairly straightforward if you hit the right sequence.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Mike Todd

Clean
galpinos - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Ben T

Hidden - 06/Sep/09

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Pete Brown and Dave

One fall off the start, went back to the ground but suspect the tight rope may have helped !
Chris the Tall - 2nd - 02/Jul/09 with Matt B

madmats - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/09 with Chris Moor

smudge - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Phil

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/May/09

couldn't work out the start - steady HVS after that
Mick r - Lead dnf - 21/Dec/08 with Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/08

Wow! What a full on start!
skygodley - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

SarahM - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08 with Skygodley

madmats - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with PeakDJ

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/08 with rich mansfield

IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Luke Hunt

willackers - 2nd β - 23/Feb/08 with Tom Mills

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ian Jackson

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/07

Mick B - Lead O/S - 19/May/07 with Guy Tooth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/07

Mr Powly - 2nd - 02/May/07 with Tom Everett

tom.e - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Tom Powell

Rjukan - 2nd - 02/May/07 with Pete

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 18/Jun/06 with Ian Pickles

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jun/05

shark - Lead rpt - 04/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

robin heath - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/04 with Carl Riley

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Jun/04

The Pylon King - Lead - Aug/03 with sean dark matter

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/02

Carl Smethurst - Lead β - 08/Dec/01 with Ian Pickles

Brown - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/01

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 22/Aug/00 with Kaspar Martin

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Pete

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 24/Jul/99 with Ian Pickles

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 15/May/99 with Ian Pickles

Hidden - Lead - 1998

ste_d - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/95 with mik

Roget - Lead rpt - 11/Dec/94 with jon

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/94 with Steven Delderfield

ChrisJD - 2nd - Aug/93

Roget - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/92 with colin

Billg - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/92 with Chris Wiffen

whispering nic - Jul/92 with Graham Iles

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/91

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/90

neilh - 2nd - Oct/89

Bulls Crack - 2nd - 1989 with RW

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/88

John Marsland - 2nd - 16/Jul/88 with Dave Soles

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/88

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/87

AlanLittle - Lead - 31/May/87 with Carl Blakeley

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/87

Hidden - 1987

keefe - 29/Nov/86

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Mike Owen - 15/Nov/83 with Joe Picalli

Gezzer - 1983

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/82

mark-abz - Lead - 08/May/82 with Walter P

KRB - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/81 with Neil Gregory

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 04/Sep/79 with Dave Crookes

Did the ordinary finish. Probably seconded the Direct with Chris Rees 1988
Kafoozalem - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/79 with David Walter

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/79

rogerskews - AltLd - 03/Sep/78 with Martin Coward

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Nigel Bond - Lead - 07/Jul/77 with Tony Cuddy

VS back then, has something fallen off?
Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Jul/76 with Bill Wheeler

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/76

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1975 with Glynne Andrew

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974

Dave Westby - Lead O/S - 1972 with Phil Caley

lump'o'lead - 1971

There was a peg and sling in place for the first move back then!
bob@daysmill - 2nd - 1971

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Jul/69

Tom V - 1969

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, derekb, middle aged slob, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 154
hard E30 of 50
E30 of 50
easy E30 of 50
hard E24 of 50
E222 of 50
easy E213 of 50
hard E111 of 50
E10 of 50
easy E10 of 50
hard 6a0 of 55
6a0 of 55
easy 6a21 of 55
hard 5c9 of 55
5c24 of 55
easy 5c1 of 55
hard 5b0 of 55
5b0 of 55
easy 5b0 of 55
3 Stars8 of 49
2 Stars36 of 49
1 Star5 of 49
0 Stars0 of 49
Bag of .....0 of 49
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Style of ascent

Lead96 of 175 (54.9%)
Followed57 of 175 (32.6%)
Alt Leads7 of 175 (4.0%)
Unknown15 of 175 (8.6%)

'Climbed'61 of 175 (34.9%)
clean O/S78 of 175 (44.6%)
clean β11 of 175 (6.3%)
clean rpt15 of 175 (8.6%)
clean RP3 of 175 (1.7%)
dogged5 of 175 (2.9%)
dnf2 of 175 (1.1%)