Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Windhover** E2 5c

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[Colin - style guru (Hanwag boots and Javelin Fleece), Stoney 1980s. Probably Parkey on the other end of the rope!, 4 kb]2m. The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have done it, but at least there are good wires. At the top, a crack gives limestone hand jams in a fine position. It originally finished round to the right of the arete up an easy but tottery groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Barry Webb 1960. FAA. D.Mellor, D.Johnson 1960

Ticklists: Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Colin - style guru (Hanwag boots and Javelin Fleece), Stoney 1980s. Probably Parkey on the other end of the rope! © Chris Craggs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 212 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/14

Start isn't that hard and is perfectly protected. Then it's jugs of justice all the way to the top. HVS/E1 max?
ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Alan PD

Fell off the start when I seconded this years ago.
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 16/Jul/14 with Sian Angharad

sian88 - 2nd RP - 16/Jul/14

e2 ?
MartinPL - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

Brannock - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14

that start.... wtf. Miles harder than scoop wall!
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/14

john lynch - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Jim, adam harrison

dom94 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14 with Nick Priestley

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Martin Hinkley

Got 2014 E points off to a start, E1 6a?.
Brannock - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14

Had a go at the start years ago and could not do it, I can now so will be back for more E2 action off the same start.
Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with bleggs

After repeatedly trying the start before. Still really hard. It would be E2 6a if higher up. Great HVS/ E1 climbing afterwards.
James Oswald - Lead RP - 25/Sep/13 with James Rees

Stig - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/13 with james oswald

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13

took a while figuring the crux, 2nd visit but didn't weight the wire this time. did take off some gear and then pull it up though!
alasdair19 - Lead - Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/13

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Ima Nahumury

Muffed the start then next go. Was a bit warm. Good route though.
Ian Broome - Lead - 12/Jul/13 with Chris

Climbing like a nob after three week lay off! Forams shut down from over griping on the top crack:-( bottom move clean after a few half harted atempts
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 15/Jun/13 with Andrew Deckon

blaza1 - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with Mike Watson

Apharri - 2nd β - 06/May/13 with Dave Wharton

Hidden - 2013

Seymore Butt - 2013

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2013 with Gabriel Morrison

Tried to work the initial boulder problem. Unfortunately not strong enough at the moment and didn't reach the peg. English 6a.
Andrew Sloan - Lead dnf - 18/Nov/12 with Tony Holdsworth

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

Took few goes to work out the start, E1 6a? Good climbing above.
Brannock - Lead RP - 18/Nov/12

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Rosh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12

Nice bouldery start, not that hard if you get the sequence right. Good exposed route after that.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Si 2

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12

Had just followed Armegeddon so no onsight but lead clean from ground, did crux a much better and easier way this time though.
nai - Lead β - 05/Jul/12 with Andrew

Great, start seemed straight forward today. Did the correct finish up the crack too as Tom finished up the easier arÍte last time.
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Richard Williams

Have done the start before when climbing another route.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

Backed off as first route of day (rest of stoney was wet). Duncan then cruised it. Tough start.
James Oswald - 2nd RP - 10/Jun/12 with Duncan

drysori - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Dunc

Hidden - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/12

Hannes B - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Tom

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Graham C - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Marti

As others have said, the start is pretty strenuous, but after that it's really nice, chilled climbing with bomber gear (and too many pegs) in a great position. Crack was a bit wet at the top though...
Joughton - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12

Hannes B - 2nd - 07/Oct/11 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Sep/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with loundsy

roberto18 - Lead - 20/Aug/11 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

desperate start!Rob did well to clip the 1st peg with no wires in below it.he must have been pumped because he laced it thereafter,ha ha. super route after that first bulge,good holds and moves but was really pumped after the start.
mike bridges - 2nd - 20/Aug/11 with Robert Bridges

richardr - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

hard first move, brilliant romp to the top after that, barely placed any gear
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11 with oaksi2

James Oakes - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/11 with Bill Lawrence

andy gittins - 2nd - Aug/11 with T Raffle

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Charles Moreton, David Gilling

cem - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson

simon1965 - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/11 with Tim

foot slipped but i think i held it without weighting the rope.
chrism225 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with jonny

Toughest bit was working out where to go at the bottom.
JRae - Lead - 12/Jul/11 with C Middleton

robw007 - AltLd β - 27/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11

Spent 'quite' a while sussing out a workable sequence for the start. Went ok when I did eventually commit to a push for it. Maybe it is HVS after that?? but the whole thing feels mighty dramatic!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11

lidiaMalecka - 2nd O/S - 31/May/11

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with lidiaMalecka

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Brad Cowley

Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Garry Jackson

Took a couple of goes to get off the ground.
kingholmesy - 2nd - 2011 with Andy S

Lead clean after one fall from the bottom. My first windy ledge route, will be back for more
Gambit - Lead β - 20/Nov/10 with Barney

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Mark R

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/10

Brilliant. Only deserves E1 I reckon - a safe 5c move at the start, and an awkward but safe 5b/c move on the jamming crack toward the top.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Mike Grant

Sussed the start
mark20 - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

Mark lead. I could not the initial crux move, and used a shoulder of a climber waiting for us...
masa-alpin - 2nd dog - 12/Sep/10 with Mark Ra, James O

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10

Had to aid past the crux. Brutal! The arete above is nice though
Neil Adams - Lead dog - 14/Aug/10 with Martin Haworth

nice moves and rock.
Adam Moroz - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with john (Krank)

pabbage - 2nd - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10

very hard start. had to aid it
Rachel Slater - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/10 with Nigel Slater

fell off a few times of the start tired from the previous route, but once figured out I climbed it clean from bottom to top.
Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Thomas Dixon

Bit confused about where to go at the top...should have read the guide!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Graeme

Dan Jenkin - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with James, Chris Barr

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with Dan, James

original finish
robw007 - Lead β - May/10

Direct finish
robw007 - Lead β - May/10

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with S.Bennett

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10

2 falls (1 on lead) then clean.
mark20 - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

Birdo - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with Dave Bird

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Awesome. Took a couple of moves to do the bouldery start.
James Oswald - 2nd RP - 2010

Pulled on runner at the start. HVS after that.
Martin Haworth - Lead - 11/Oct/09 with richard white

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

A bit of an unbalanced route but nice moves. The crux is fairly straightforward if you hit the right sequence.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Mike Todd

Clean
galpinos - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Ben T

Hidden - 06/Sep/09

vanderz - Lead O/S - Sep/09

duzinga - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Pete Brown and Dave

One fall off the start, went back to the ground but suspect the tight rope may have helped !
Chris the Tall - 2nd - 02/Jul/09 with Matt B

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/09

smudge - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Phil

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/May/09

couldn't work out the start - steady HVS after that
Mick r - Lead dnf - 21/Dec/08 with Martin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/08

Wow! What a full on start!
skygodley - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/08 with rich mansfield

IanJackson - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Luke Hunt

willackers - 2nd β - 23/Feb/08 with Tom Mills

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 2008 with Ian Jackson

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/07

Mick B - Lead O/S - 19/May/07 with Guy Tooth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/07

Mr Powly - 2nd - 02/May/07 with Tom Everett

tom.e - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Tom Powell

Rjukan - 2nd - 02/May/07 with Pete

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 18/Jun/06 with Ian Pickles

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jun/05

shark - Lead rpt - 04/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

robin heath - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/04 with Carl Riley

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Jun/04

The Pylon King - Lead - Aug/03 with sean dark matter

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/02

Carl Smethurst - Lead β - 08/Dec/01 with Ian Pickles

Brown - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/01

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 22/Aug/00 with Kaspar Martin

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Pete

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 24/Jul/99 with Ian Pickles

GeoffG - Lead - 22/May/99

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 15/May/99 with Ian Pickles

Hidden - Lead - 1998

ste_d - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/95 with mik

Roget - Lead rpt - 11/Dec/94 with jon

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/94 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead - 16/Oct/93

ChrisJD - 2nd - Aug/93

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Scott Abraham, Alan Holden

Roget - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/92 with colin

Billg - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/92 with Chris Wiffen

whispering nic - Jul/92 with Graham Iles

With THE. 2nd: Bog.
Gary Coggon - Lead O/S - 01/May/92 with Bog

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/91

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/90

neilh - 2nd - Oct/89

Bulls Crack - 2nd - 1989 with RW

Chris Wright - Lead - 18/Sep/88

John Marsland - 2nd - 16/Jul/88 with Dave Soles

surfbish - Lead O/S - Feb/88

Hidden - 1988

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/87

AlanLittle - Lead - 31/May/87 with Carl Blakeley

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/87

Hidden - 1987

keefe - 29/Nov/86

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

rob.grafton - AltLd - 1986 with barry maybank

Neil R - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/85 with Richard W

Mike Owen - 15/Nov/83 with Joe Picalli

Gezzer - 1983

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/82

mark-abz - Lead - 08/May/82 with Walter P

KRB - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/81 with Neil Gregory

tapley - Lead - 30/May/81 with Chris Seymour

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

ewar woowar - 1981

Hidden - Lead - Oct/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 04/Sep/79 with Dave Crookes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/79

done before as second
David Smith - Lead - 05/May/79 with Al Bennett

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/79

rogerskews - AltLd - 03/Sep/78 with Martin Coward

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Nigel Bond - Lead - 07/Jul/77 with Tony Cuddy

VS back then, has something fallen off?
Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Jul/76 with Bill Wheeler

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/76

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1975 with Glynne Andrew

mikej - Lead - 21/May/74 with E

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1974

Dave Westby - Lead O/S - 1972 with Phil Caley

lump'o'lead - 1971

There was a peg and sling in place for the first move back then!
bob@daysmill - 2nd - 1971

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Jul/69

Tom V - 1969

mikej - AltLd - 02/Mar/68 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, derekb, middle aged slob, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 168
hard E30 of 55
E30 of 55
easy E30 of 55
hard E24 of 55
E224 of 55
easy E216 of 55
hard E111 of 55
E10 of 55
easy E10 of 55
hard 6a0 of 60
6a0 of 60
easy 6a25 of 60
hard 5c10 of 60
5c24 of 60
easy 5c1 of 60
hard 5b0 of 60
5b0 of 60
easy 5b0 of 60
3 Stars8 of 53
2 Stars40 of 53
1 Star5 of 53
0 Stars0 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead121 of 212 (57.1%)
Followed64 of 212 (30.2%)
Alt Leads9 of 212 (4.2%)
Unknown18 of 212 (8.5%)

'Climbed'75 of 212 (35.4%)
clean O/S93 of 212 (43.9%)
clean β11 of 212 (5.2%)
clean rpt19 of 212 (9.0%)
clean RP6 of 212 (2.8%)
dogged5 of 212 (2.4%)
dnf3 of 212 (1.4%)