Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Scoop Wall*** E2 5c

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[Masa on Scoop Wall, Stoney Middleton, during the reunion weekend., 3 kb]25m. The best route at Stoney. It follows the groove to a bulge, which provides the first hard section, to a rest in a recess. Head up the bulging crack above to an old peg, then make hard bridging moves up and left to another crack. This last section is pumpier on the legs than the arms, if you do it right. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. FAA. R.Leeming 1965.

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Masa on Scoop Wall, Stoney Middleton, during the reunion weekend. © Steve Kirman (Lindsey CC)
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 251 logbooks, and on 37 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

Bob - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Great to get this one as it's been on my hit list for far too long, if only I had had the guts sooner!
Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with bleggs

had seconded it 21 years previously bit couldn't remember a thing about it.
nai - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/13 with Andrew

One stupid failure to commit/find holds
Kevster - Lead - 26/Aug/13 with Lizzie, Jon C

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/13

JulesV - Lead - 17/Jul/13

The polished start is horrible, but seems to improve as you go up. I thought the moves left at the top were hard for 5c
markalmack - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with chris todd

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

Decided to place gear mid crux despite being right by the peg. Got the gear but had no juice for the move :/
Chriswallis2 - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13 with Anna

finally, after work, first route out of the car, steady away.... after asking for beta again. . .
GuyVG - Lead - 04/Jun/13 with oli

Hidden - Jun/13

sazmaz - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

On pre placed gear and the top crux still confused me
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 17/May/13 with Si

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/13

buzby78 - Lead - 24/Apr/13 with McGeek

Awesome! One of the best routes i've done in the peak
blaza1 - Lead O/S - Apr/13 with Paul McCallum

Hidden - Lead - 07/Mar/13

Hidden - 2013

Seymore Butt - 2013

thought this was really hard at the top, (e2/3 5c/6a)
Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

climbingsheep - Lead dog - 30/Oct/12 with Mike Watson

Got quite pumped at the top and ran it out after the peg
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/12

Clean this time. Need a clean lead next visit. Robin looked prime for Pembroke on the sharp end.
Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 04/Aug/12 with Robin

Smashing route. Has to be one of the best E2's in the Peak? I was glad I took a good rest before getting stuck into the final crux.
robin_hackney - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Dave Foster

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Jul/12

Had a hard time on top crux. Good fall practice - the top peg's good! Not as hard when you figure out the right way to do it but still a bit of a stiff pull to get going.
Dave Foster - Lead - 29/Jul/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

Whoop! Found pumpy/sustained and only just managed the top crux but really enjoyed! A long standing ambition.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Jim

Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/12 with Graeme

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/12

Came into the shade at 3.30
david morse - 2nd rpt - 24/May/12 with todd

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/12

Howard Lawledge - 14/May/12 with Jack

Brilliant, really pleased to have done this. Almost came off the last move of the upper crux due to hands being absolutely coated in sweat. Really need a new chalk ball!
Si dH - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Andy

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/12 with Marti

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nick Sillem - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Oct/11

Not as hard as it looks from below but the crux isn't where you'd think... quite wide bridging for me because I'm a tad short but peg made it all feel safe.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Sep/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with loundsy

well made up. first proper E2 lead since the crash. stoked
WB - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Guy

led on oakseys gear to save time (turns out other events wasted more time later on so probably wasnt worth it..). not placing gear had no effect though really as every placement was in a position where i could rest. awesome climb and well worth the 3 stars for that top section. psyched!
Bill Lawrence - Lead β - 20/Aug/11 with Guy VG, oaksi2

2 falls, crux is hard bridging straight into chilled balance position. Low down bulge is just thuggy, stay cool
GuyVG - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11 with billy, Oaksy

Brilliant route 5b untill the good rest then a few moves of 5c in to the groove at the top.
James Oakes - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Bill Lawrence, GuyVG

richardr - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Rich R

steve_yo - 2nd - 13/Aug/11 with smacks

GuyM - 2nd - Aug/11 with will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/11

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Charles Moreton, David Gilling

Led it cleanly up to second bulge & the crux, where I had a few goes before being lowered off. I will be back...
cem - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/11 with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson

Well hard and scary now without any in situ threads. Climbed clean to crux then three rests before Igot it sorted. More training needed!!
simon1965 - Lead dog - 22/Jul/11 with Tim

JRae - Lead - 20/Jul/11 with Tom Dixon, A Saul

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/11 with Johnny, Alan

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Stuart Cartwright

steve_yo - 2nd - Jul/11 with steve f

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Rankine

seconded it first but ended up doing the crux differently on lead anyway. IMO not a hard E2, more mid-soft really.
al123 - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with hannes

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Emlyn

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Tom

Very good!
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Becca

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Neil Pope

Good route.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2011 with Andy S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Memorable lead on this day of Stoney Middleton Climbers Reunion! I have been eyeing up for this route since my first visit. Glad I did it cleanly. Great route, but a number of in-situ gear spoils the experience.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with Mark Ra

Finally done this ground up
mark20 - Lead RP - 11/Sep/10

Couldn't reach my left leg high enough to do the crux at the top. Will do again sometime.
James Oswald - 2nd dnf - 11/Sep/10 with Mark Rankine

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/10 with nathan lee

Amazing climb!!
natalie28 - 2nd - 03/Aug/10 with Rik

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with natalie28

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

First route at Stoney, justified classic! Polished to death
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with jacquie robinson

Good route, pumpy and well protected, nice moves.
Adam Moroz - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with john (Krank)

Nick Taylor - Lead β - 17/Jul/10

Cruised up to the rest then messed up the crux (a few times). Aided past, will come back.
mark20 - Lead dog - 28/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Jun/10

awesome route. really enjoyed it
Rachel Slater - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Nigel Slater

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Ben Dorey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/10

Dan Jenkin - 2nd O/S - 13/May/10 with James

On Mike's gear. Awesome route, proper technical and balancy on the crux.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 07/May/10 with Mike

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 26/Apr/10 with Steve Adams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

pigeonslipper - Lead O/S - 2010

Top crux soaking but v v good.
Chubbard - Lead dog - 15/Nov/09 with J Robinson

Fell off four times onto the peg (it held!), then at last got the bridging sorted and it all came together nicely.
Misha - Lead dog - 20/Sep/09

eduardo - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/09 with Misha

This route reminded me how good climbing can feel.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Mike Todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Jul/09

CJEFF - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/09 with John Williams

IAmAStone - 2nd - 10/Jul/09 with Charlie Jefferson

simonp - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Neil Stabbs

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - 04/May/09

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09 with Alex Messenger

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Oct/08

SarahM - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Ed

alaan - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Fran, Ben and Dave

Great route but way too powerful for me at the moment. Fell off quite a few times
BenJacobs - 2nd dog - 17/Aug/08 with alaan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Jul/08

Alan James - UKC and UKH - 2nd - 06/Jul/08 with Jack Geldard

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/08

Will_he_fall - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with tatts

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 26/May/08 with Dave Morse

david morse - 2nd dog - 26/May/08 with roper and freeman

Wow!
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Luke Hunt

Amazing route!!
willackers - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Tom Mills

lukehunt - 2nd - 2008 with Ian Jackson

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/07 with Dave Ferguson

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Sep/07

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with John Hall

fizzy_elephant - Lead - 16/Jun/07 with Lloyd Betsworth

v.jester - Lead β - Jun/07 with alex

Nicos - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with rich howels

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 05/May/07

Brilliant route. having evaded doing it 3 times last year and nearly again today was glad i ended up on it. cruised it. brilliant bridging up top, and a nice pull round low bulge on big holds.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Mar/07

jamesturnbull - 2007 with aiden

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/06

Rested on gear at 2nd crux.
Carl Smethurst - Lead dog - 18/Jun/06 with Ian Pickles

ChrisJD - 2nd - 09/Jun/06 with rc

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/06

intense climbing at the top of the scoop
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 19/May/06 with Alex

JulesV - Lead O/S - 05/May/06 with toby dunn

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jul/05

nige - Lead - 21/May/05 with mark hounslea

shark - 2nd - 04/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/04

dicky79 - 2nd dog - 2004 with Simon

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/03 with Simon Wren

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2003 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/02

jamiev - 2nd β - 2002 with Adrian Berry

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

skygodley - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/01 with SarahM

Brown - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/01

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/01

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/01

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/00

KRB - Lead O/S - 01/May/00 with Mike Bridges

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/00

kristian - Lead O/S - 2000

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/99

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/99

Carl Smethurst - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/99 with Ian Pickles

sadams - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/98 with Pete Bukowski

ChrisJD - Lead - 31/Aug/96 with Rod

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/95

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1995 with Martin

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/94 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/94 with mik

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

whispering nic - Jul/92 with Graham Iles

Roget - Lead O/S - 25/May/92 with JT

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/92

nai - 2nd - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jul/91

sadams - 2nd - 20/Jun/91 with Kev Mellieu

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/91

keefe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 14/Jul/90 with keefe

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/90

Hidden - Lead - 17/Mar/90

Hidden - Lead - 04/Nov/89

Bulls Crack - Lead O/S - 1989 with AM

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1989 with bernie bradbury

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 12/Nov/88 with Steve Clegg

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Sep/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/88

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/87

Billg - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/87 with Paul Guttridge

Hidden - 1987

simon parish - 2nd - 1987 with Andrew Taylor

keefe - 29/Nov/86

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/May/86

neilh - 2nd - 20/Apr/86 with dave marsh

rob.grafton - AltLd - 1986 with barry maybank

keefe - 15/Dec/85

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/85

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/85

shark - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/85 with Mark Mitchell

John Marsland - Lead - 01/Jun/85 with George Shaw

sadams - Lead - 17/May/85 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Feb/85

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/84

Ascent photographed by Chris Craggs and picture later published in Chris's book 'Limestone'. My name is (apparently) Jim Robbins!!
Dave Musgrove - Lead - 08/Sep/84 with Kim Greenald

Ian Clare - 1984

Ian Clare - 1984

Ian Clare - 1984

Mike Owen - 15/Nov/83 with Joe Picalli

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 08/Sep/83 with Dave Abbey

DPaul - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/83 with s.brown

Can't remember how many times I've done this route. It's as good every time, like Darius on High Tor I find it quite easy, probably suits my climbing style and build.
Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

andy gittins - 1983

started girdle but brief downpour saw us abseil to windy ledge. rock dry in very short time and saw the line and fancied it, no idea what it was.Whilst AL was seconding Chris (the body) asked if he could also come up.
David Smith - Lead - 05/Sep/82 with Al Bennett

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1982 with Andy Towne

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/81

redjerry - Lead O/S - May/81 with Roy Williamson

ewar woowar - 1981

Did as two pitches; led the first one.
Andy Stephenson - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/80 with Chris Plant

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1979

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Hot summer, very slippery polished holds on the crux (pre-chalk)!
petemeads - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/76

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 29/Feb/76 with Martin Berzins

Al's diary records '1Pt Aid'
Falko - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/74 with Dick Swinden, Peter Brashaw, Bill Briggs, Al W.

Hidden - 2nd - 1967

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Voting
Total votes cast 258
hard E30 of 87
E30 of 87
easy E38 of 87
hard E256 of 87
E222 of 87
easy E20 of 87
hard E11 of 87
E10 of 87
easy E10 of 87
hard 6a0 of 87
6a0 of 87
easy 6a2 of 87
hard 5c46 of 87
5c36 of 87
easy 5c2 of 87
hard 5b1 of 87
5b0 of 87
easy 5b0 of 87
3 Stars78 of 84
2 Stars5 of 84
1 Star1 of 84
0 Stars0 of 84
Bag of .....0 of 84
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Style of ascent

Lead156 of 251 (62.2%)
Followed60 of 251 (23.9%)
Alt Leads8 of 251 (3.2%)
Unknown27 of 251 (10.8%)

'Climbed'101 of 251 (40.2%)
clean O/S97 of 251 (38.6%)
clean β5 of 251 (2.0%)
clean rpt18 of 251 (7.2%)
clean RP3 of 251 (1.2%)
dogged22 of 251 (8.8%)
dnf5 of 251 (2.0%)