Rockfax Description
The best route at Stoney. It follows the groove to a bulge, which provides the first hard section, to a rest in a recess. Head up the bulging crack above to an old peg, then make hard bridging moves up and left to another crack. This last section is pumpier on the legs than the arms, if you do it right. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. FAA. R.Leeming 1965.

Ticklists: Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

robertmctague 06/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul Lead β
mikeyjbs 04/Jul Lead O/S
with mat downes
Hidden 27/Jun Lead
Sam Simpson 25/Jun Lead O/S
with Paul Wood, Tom Doldon
theomoore 09/Jun Lead O/S

Really good. Feels a couple of grades easier than Darius

mrteale 09/Jun 2nd β
with MrBlond
Luke Dawson 05/Jun Lead O/S
Albert Exley 05/Jun 2nd O/S
Louishmouis 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Dave
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/Jun 2nd
with Louis
deacondeacon 02/Jun Lead

Ballsed it up the other day, so came back to do it again. Went ok but still found it hard.

LRob 31/May Lead G/U
harry_lewis 30/May Lead dog

Toppled backwards out of the bridge :( quality route, shall probably be back

dr_botnik 30/May 2nd dog
admackie 30/May Lead rpt

so good

Hidden 27/May Lead
markalmack 10/May 2nd rpt
with little tom
admackie 27/Apr Lead β

thought id do it before it became e3 and i wasn't good enough. it isn't e3

with derek beetlestone
georgenvk 26/Apr 2nd dog
bigdrew 26/Apr 2nd rpt
with Dunc, Ian Milward
Mark Grist 11/Apr Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 11/Apr 2nd rpt
manwithacam 21/Mar 2nd

Seconded after messing up the lead.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 21/Mar -

Dan led 3/4 of the route and fell at the crux. I went up to the crux on a top rope and worked it out slowly resting on the peg until I got the moves.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
Jake Young 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Yeeaaahhh :D good route, pretty happy with this.

with Mark R
WillDoyle 16/Sep/14 Lead
Brannock 15/Aug/14 Lead
ChrisBrooke 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Wonderful route. Looks hard from the deck, but the jugs and gear keep coming, drawing you ever upwards. Great rest before the upper headwall which, again, is full of jugs and gear. Best route I've done at Stoney - and nice to be able to ab straight off. It's like going sport climbing ;)

with Duncan Bell
drysori ?/Aug/14 2nd
Jono_LS16 ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
dominic lee 30/Jul/14 Lead
with andy elliot
Duncan Campbell 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Absolutely stellar and not too bad either, two hard sections separated by a very good rest. Pretty warm whilst climbing!

with Rach
Rachel Slater 22/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Stig 16/Jul/14 Lead

Got wrong handed in the crack and fell off with hand on the slopey jug. Easy second go.

admackie 12/Jul/14 Lead dog

gutted to blow the onsight,top crux

with andy
Andy Peak 1 12/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Brannock 05/Jul/14 Lead

Not a warm up....

miastacey ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Bob Smith
Misha 30/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Phil led in fine style. Nice to second this one clean after falling off the crux a few times last time. It's all in the bridging! Evening session.

with Ed, Phil
philhilo 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Top 10 Peak limestone route for sure - looks intimidating from below but turns out really freindly and perfectly arranged holds and gear.

with misha
eduardo 30/Jun/14 2nd dog

Rest on the upper crux - didn't read the match / hand swap properly. Far effort better than my last attempt!

with Phil
ashtond6 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Awesome!!! Really special moves at the top

Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead β
WillDoyle 12/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/14 2nd O/S
simon kimber 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Nick Conway
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
ejected ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Phill Mitch 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great to get this one as it's been on my hit list for far too long, if only I had had the guts sooner!

with bleggs
nai 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S

had seconded it 21 years previously bit couldn't remember a thing about it.

with Andrew
Kevster 26/Aug/13 Lead

One stupid failure to commit/find holds

with Lizzie
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd rpt
JulesV 17/Jul/13 Lead
markalmack 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

The polished start is horrible, but seems to improve as you go up. I thought the moves left at the top were hard for 5c

Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 08/Jun/13 Lead dog

Decided to place gear mid crux despite being right by the peg. Got the gear but had no juice for the move :/

with Anna
GuyVG 04/Jun/13 Lead

finally, after work, first route out of the car, steady away.... after asking for beta again. . .

with oli
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Andy Peak 1 17/May/13 Lead

On pre placed gear and the top crux still confused me

with Si
Hidden 17/May/13 Lead rpt
buzby78 24/Apr/13 Lead
with McGeek
blaza1 ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Awesome! One of the best routes i've done in the peak

Hidden 07/Mar/13 Lead
BillyRidal ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
samt ??/2013 -
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead
Haydn Jones 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

thought this was really hard at the top, (e2/3 5c/6a)

with pep
climbingsheep 30/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Mike Watson
Daniel Heath 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Got quite pumped at the top and ran it out after the peg

Hidden 06/Oct/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Dave Foster 04/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Clean this time. Need a clean lead next visit. Robin looked prime for Pembroke on the sharp end.

with Robin
robin_hackney 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Smashing route. Has to be one of the best E2's in the Peak? I was glad I took a good rest before getting stuck into the final crux.

Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Dave Foster 29/Jul/12 Lead

Had a hard time on top crux. Good fall practice - the top peg's good! Not as hard when you figure out the right way to do it but still a bit of a stiff pull to get going.

with Si 2
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Whoop! Found pumpy/sustained and only just managed the top crux but really enjoyed! A long standing ambition.

with Jim
Jim Slater 23/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead O/S
david morse 24/May/12 2nd rpt

Came into the shade at 3.30

with todd
drysori 24/May/12 Lead dog

Doh, very hot and muggy, should've warmed up better!

with Dunc
Howard Lawledge 14/May/12 -
with Jack
Si dH 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant, really pleased to have done this. Almost came off the last move of the upper crux due to hands being absolutely coated in sweat. Really need a new chalk ball!

with Andy
Marti999 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Graham C 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Hidden 23/Oct/11 2nd
Joughton 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Not as hard as it looks from below but the crux isn't where you'd think... quite wide bridging for me because I'm a tad short but peg made it all feel safe.

Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead β
belay bunny turned bad 03/Sep/11 2nd
with loundsy
WB 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

well made up. first proper E2 lead since the crash. stoked

with Guy
Bill Lawrence 20/Aug/11 Lead β

led on oakseys gear to save time (turns out other events wasted more time later on so probably wasnt worth it..). not placing gear had no effect though really as every placement was in a position where i could rest. awesome climb and well worth the 3 stars for that top section. psyched!

GuyVG 20/Aug/11 Lead dog

2 falls, crux is hard bridging straight into chilled balance position. Low down bulge is just thuggy, stay cool

with billy, Oaksy
James Oakes 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route 5b untill the good rest then a few moves of 5c in to the groove at the top.

richardr 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Rich R
steve_yo 13/Aug/11 2nd
with smacks
GuyM ?/Aug/11 2nd
with will
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/11 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 28/Jul/11 Lead
with Dave
Hidden 27/Jul/11 2nd rpt
drcorbasisgod 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
cem 24/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Led it cleanly up to the second bulge and the crux, where I had a few goes before being lowered off. I will be back...

with Dave Gilling, Chris Parson
simon1965 22/Jul/11 Lead dog

Well hard and scary now without any in situ threads. Climbed clean to crux then three rests before Igot it sorted. More training needed!!

with Tim
JRae 20/Jul/11 Lead
thomasadixon 20/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Johnny, Alan
Reaver2k 20/Jul/11 2nd
M_W_Court 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Stuart Cartwright
steve_yo ?/Jul/11 2nd
with steve f
J.Wells 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
al123 31/May/11 Lead O/S

seconded it first but ended up doing the crux differently on lead anyway. IMO not a hard E2, more mid-soft really.

with hannes
Hannes B 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Emlyn
BeccaSnowden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Very good!

with Becca
Luke Brooks 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2011 Lead O/S

Good route.

with Andy S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd dog
masa-alpin 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Memorable lead on this day of Stoney Middleton Climbers Reunion! I have been eyeing up for this route since my first visit. Glad I did it cleanly. Great route, but a number of in-situ gear spoils the experience.

with Mark Ra
mark20 11/Sep/10 Lead RP

Finally done this ground up

James Oswald 11/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Couldn't reach my left leg high enough to do the crux at the top. Will do again sometime.

Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
dominic lee 18/Aug/10 Lead rpt
natalie28 03/Aug/10 2nd

Amazing climb!!

with Rik
rikbattye 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

First route at Stoney, justified classic! Polished to death

dan gibson 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Adam Moroz 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route, pumpy and well protected, nice moves.

with john (Krank)
Nick Taylor 17/Jul/10 Lead β
mark20 28/Jun/10 Lead dog

Cruised up to the rest then messed up the crux (a few times). Aided past, will come back.

Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Jun/10 2nd

Led several times previously

with Adam Long
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Rachel Slater 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S

awesome route. really enjoyed it

with Nigel Slater
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Dan Jenkin 13/May/10 2nd O/S
with James
thomasadixon 07/May/10 Lead O/S

On Mike's gear. Awesome route, proper technical and balancy on the crux.

with Mike
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 26/Apr/10 2nd
with Steve Adams
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
TonyF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead dog
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
pigeonslipper ??/2010 Lead O/S
Chubbard 15/Nov/09 Lead dog

Top crux soaking but v v good.

Misha 20/Sep/09 Lead dog

Fell off four times onto the peg (it held!), then at last got the bridging sorted and it all came together nicely.

eduardo 20/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Misha
Brian Rodgers 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

This route reminded me how good climbing can feel.

Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
IAmAStone 10/Jul/09 2nd
with Charlie Jefferson
simonp ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Neil Stabbs
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jun/09 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 04/May/09 AltLd
John Southworth 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Messenger
dav ??/2009 Lead O/S

either 2009 or 2010, can't remember exact date

with Gill B
Hidden 13/Oct/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
alaan 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Fran, Ben and Dave
BenJacobs 17/Aug/08 2nd dog

Great route but way too powerful for me at the moment. Fell off quite a few times

with alaan
Hidden 15/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Jul/08 Lead dog
Alan James - UKC and UKH 06/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/08 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
bfreeman 26/May/08 Lead O/S
david morse 26/May/08 2nd dog
with roper and freeman
IanJackson 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S


with Luke Hunt
willackers 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Amazing route!!

with Tom Mills
lukehunt ??/2008 2nd
with Ian Jackson
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 16/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Dave Ferguson
Hidden 07/Sep/07 Lead dog
gregoritos ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John Hall
fizzy_elephant 16/Jun/07 Lead
with Lloyd Betsworth
v.jester ?/Jun/07 Lead β
with alex
Nicos 05/May/07 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. having evaded doing it 3 times last year and nearly again today was glad i ended up on it. cruised it. brilliant bridging up top, and a nice pull round low bulge on big holds.

Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead RP
jamesturnbull ??/2007 -
with aiden
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 18/Jun/06 Lead dog

Rested on gear at 2nd crux.

with Ian Pickles
Hidden 09/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/06 Lead
Ram MkiV 19/May/06 Lead O/S

intense climbing at the top of the scoop

with Alex
JulesV 05/May/06 Lead O/S
with toby dunn
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
nige 21/May/05 Lead
with mark hounslea
shark 04/Dec/04 2nd
with Mark Hundleby
Hidden 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/04 Lead
dicky79 ??/2004 2nd dog
with Simon
Dave Bond 10/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
marcoleptic ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/02 Lead
jamiev ??/2002 2nd β
with Adrian Berry
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2002 -
skygodley 08/Dec/01 Lead O/S
with SarahM
Brown 19/Jul/01 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/01 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/01 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 29/Oct/00 Lead rpt

Snagged it before the rain arrived after bagging Windhover (cold start)

with Ian Smith
Hidden 08/Aug/00 2nd
KRB 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
Hidden 25/Mar/00 AltLd
kristian ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 09/Oct/99 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/99 Lead rpt
Carl Smethurst 01/Aug/99 2nd O/S
with Ian Pickles
GeoffG 22/May/99 Lead
sadams 21/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Hidden 31/Aug/96 Lead
Hidden 21/May/96 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/95 Lead
ian caton ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Martin
robtrooper ??/1995 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 01/Sep/94 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/94 2nd O/S
with mik
NickJH ?/Aug/94 -
mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
whispering nic ?/Jul/92 -
with Graham Iles
Roget 25/May/92 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Steve Crowe 08/May/92 Lead

one fall

with KM
Hidden 19/Jan/92 Lead
nai ??/1992 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/91 2nd
sadams 20/Jun/91 2nd
with Kev Mellieu
Hidden 23/Mar/91 Lead
keefe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe 14/Jul/90 AltLd
with keefe
Neil R 13/Apr/90 2nd
with Howard
Chris Wright 17/Mar/90 Lead
Hidden 04/Nov/89 Lead
Bulls Crack ??/1989 Lead O/S
with AM
mik1miller ??/1989 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
Bruce Kerr 12/Nov/88 Lead
with Steve Clegg
Hidden 24/Sep/88 AltLd
Hidden 29/Mar/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden 01/May/87 Lead
Billg 21/Mar/87 Lead O/S
with Paul Guttridge
Hidden ??/1987 -
simon parish ??/1987 2nd
keefe 29/Nov/86 -
Hidden 01/May/86 Lead dog
neilh 20/Apr/86 2nd
with dave marsh
rob.grafton ??/1986 AltLd
with barry maybank
keefe 15/Dec/85 -
charlesmfrench 21/Jun/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/85 AltLd
shark 08/Jun/85 2nd O/S
with Mark Mitchell
John Marsland 01/Jun/85 Lead
with George Shaw
sadams 17/May/85 Lead
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 24/Feb/85 2nd
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 30/Sep/84 -
Hidden 23/Sep/84 2nd
Dave Musgrove 08/Sep/84 Lead

Ascent photographed by Chris Craggs and picture later published in Chris's book 'Limestone'. My name is (apparently) Jim Robbins!!

with Kim Greenald
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Mike Owen 15/Nov/83 2nd β
with Joe Picalli
Mark Kemball 08/Sep/83 2nd
with Dave Abbey
DPaul 27/Jan/83 Lead O/S
with s.brown
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S

Can't remember how many times I've done this route. It's as good every time, like Darius on High Tor I find it quite easy, probably suits my climbing style and build.

with Merv Dudley
andy gittins ??/1983 -
uphillnow 05/Sep/82 Lead

started girdle but brief downpour saw us abseil to windy ledge. rock dry in very short time and saw the line and fancied it, no idea what it was.Whilst Andy was seconding the route Chris (the body) asked if he could also come up.

with Andy Bennett
Gezzer ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Andy Towne
Chris Terrey 20/Jun/81 Lead
with Ken Taylor
Hidden 22/May/81 2nd
redjerry ?/May/81 Lead O/S
with Roy Williamson
ewar woowar ??/1981 -
Ian Jones ??/1981 Lead β

Hard. Followed Dave Greenald up it years before.

with Rich Lewis (a.k.a. 'Dick Hairs')
Andy Stephenson 19/Jul/80 AltLd O/S

Did as two pitches; led the first one.

with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/Jun/80 Lead
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
derekb ??/1979 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1978 Lead
petemeads 29/Jun/76 Lead O/S

Hot summer, very slippery polished holds on the crux (pre-chalk)!

Mark Kemball 29/Feb/76 2nd
with Martin Berzins
Falko 29/Jun/74 Lead O/S

Al's diary records '1Pt Aid'

with Dick Swinden, Peter Brashaw, Bill Briggs, Al W.
Hidden ??/1967 2nd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 101
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 95
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set