Rockfax Description
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.
1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, Friend 3 useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick ...
2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. An awesomely impressive ascent for the time - the initial roof is probably a V5 or V6 boulder problem.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Stoney Boy 05/Jun Lead rpt

Lead the second pitch. Still a very good/intimidating route.

with Nick Conway
Hidden ?/Jun Lead O/S
LRob 31/May Lead G/U
markalmack 10/May Lead O/S
with little tom
tim newton 25/Apr Lead dog

Onsighted the start and then got a bit shut down by the move to the undercut. Did it eventually but found it desperate.

Joughton 20/Mar Lead O/S

Very pleased to get the boulder start onsight, only to find the moves going past the undercut much more strenuous! Total classic.

Canyak ??/2015 -
realbobsmith ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Hard start

MartinPL 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

struggled on second crux, couldn't reach the underhold that next to loop but route climbed on sight

Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
J.Wells 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ima Nahumury
samt 03/Sep/13 Lead dog

Pissed the start and failed completely to reach the undercut. Just miles off. Arms are too short!! Dogged past and finished easily. Frustrating.

blaza1 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Few goes on the start but climbed the rest onsight, wouldn't want to be much shorter!

Apharri 01/May/13 Lead β
with Jim Gayler
Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead

No pads (although I would have liked some).

Haydn Jones 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

thought the crux was the overlap, found the start easy

with pep
climbingsheep 30/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Mike Watson
mwatson 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Howard Lawledge 14/May/12 Lead
with Jack
steve_yo 13/Aug/11 Lead
with smacks
harvie 28/Apr/11 Lead
with Jo Mac
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden 08/Sep/10 Lead
dominic lee 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt

finished up menopause.

DaveFidler 10/Aug/10 Sent dnf

Onsighted bouder start.

rikbattye 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Felt very steady (being tall helps). Two cruxs with really easy climbing in between. Didnt bother fiddling with gear apart from wire at begining, just clip pegs and then tat for the undercut moves.

Hidden 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
dav 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
ellis ??/2010 2nd

A few swings at the start

with Tom Bridgeland
Brown 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Henry
jamesturnbull 30/Jun/08 Lead
with nicos
willackers 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Mills
timbanton ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
andy gravestock 29/Dec/07 Sent rpt

bouldery start with a powerfull exit really good. so pleased now to have finally gone back to tick this one having failed in 2007 felt so much easier still what a great route.

with steve, allex
Hidden 27/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 16/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Dave Ferguson
Alex Mason 07/Jun/07 Lead

Seconded with aid about 3 months ago! Lead clean today was awesome and didnt find it very hard! :)

with Vash
v.jester ?/Jun/07 2nd
with alex
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 17/May/07 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
Ram MkiV 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S

never had to lay down power like that on a trad route before, brilliant

with Al
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Dave Bond 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
JulesV 05/May/06 2nd
with toby dunn
Boy ??/2006 -
tuftynick ??/2006 2nd O/S
with pete hurley
Hidden 05/Oct/02 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2002 -
Hidden 25/Mar/00 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2000 -
GeoffG 22/May/99 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 19/Jul/98 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/98 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Roget 31/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with jon
mattnuttall 12/Jul/93 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 22/Aug/92 Lead rpt
Cowflinger 12/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/91 Lead
Chris Wright 17/Mar/90 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 10/Jul/88 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Bruce Kerr 14/Jul/87 Lead
with Colin Gilchrist
Hidden ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
sadams 05/May/85 Lead β
with John Dunne
Dave Musgrove 08/Sep/84 Lead O/S

Broke a hold and fell off well above the crux. In fact had to climb the crux twice because of it!

with Kim Greenald
Neil R ??/1984 2nd dog
with Ian
Mike Owen 15/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
TonyF ??/1983 2nd O/S
with Tony Cox
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead dnf

Too short for the upper bulge.

with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
redjerry ?/Oct/82 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
Pedro50 04/Oct/81 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Aug/80 Lead
with John Jefferies
Hidden ?/May/80 Lead β
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead

Work the start at the end of one day at the crag. Played on it again the following week to get it wired. Led it the next week - breeches and no chalk.

with Nigel Baker
uphillnow ??/1980 2nd
mitch1960 ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ??/1979 Lead RP
derekb ??/1979 Lead
Steve Bell ?/Oct/78 Lead O/S
with Paul Newman
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, Hidden, Hidden, humptydumpty, Andy Peak 1, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PeteWilson, Hidden, Hidden, Bill Lawrence, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 35
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set