Our Father*** E4 6b
[Ben Tedstill on Our Father, E4 6b, Stoney Middleton, 3 kb]15m.

Rockfax Description
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.
1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, Friend 3 useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick ...
2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows. © ROCKFAX

FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. An awesomely impressive ascent for the time - the initial roof is probably a V5 or V6 boulder problem.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Ben Tedstill on Our Father, E4 6b, Stoney Middleton © Patrick Daniel
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 92 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Lead the second pitch. Still a very good/intimidating route.
Stoney Boy - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/15 with Nick Conway

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/15

LRob - Lead G/U - 31/May/15

markalmack - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with little tom

Onsighted the start and then got a bit shut down by the move to the undercut. Did it eventually but found it desperate.
tim newton - Lead dog - 25/Apr/15 with rachel slater

Very pleased to get the boulder start onsight, only to find the moves going past the undercut much more strenuous! Total classic.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/15

Canyak - 2015

realbobsmith - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with mia stacey

Hard start
Brannock - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14

struggled on second crux, couldn't reach the underhold that next to loop but route climbed on sight
MartinPL - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - 2014

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Ima Nahumury

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Sep/13

Few goes on the start but climbed the rest onsight, wouldn't want to be much shorter!
blaza1 - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with Mike Watson

Apharri - Lead β - 01/May/13 with Jim Gayler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

No pads (although I would have liked some).
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2013

thought the crux was the overlap, found the start easy
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

climbingsheep - Lead dog - 30/Oct/12 with Mike Watson

mwatson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

Howard Lawledge - Lead - 14/May/12 with Jack

steve_yo - Lead - 13/Aug/11 with smacks

harvie - Lead - 28/Apr/11 with Jo Mac

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Pleased to still be able to do this. David doenst follow - abb for gear
steveb2006 - Lead - 08/Sep/10 with David Andrew

finished up menopause.
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/10 with nathan lee

Onsighted bouder start.
DaveFidler - Sent dnf - 10/Aug/10

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

Felt very steady (being tall helps). Two cruxs with really easy climbing in between. Didnt bother fiddling with gear apart from wire at begining, just clip pegs and then tat for the undercut moves.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with michael porter

dav - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Gill B

A few swings at the start
ellis - 2nd - 2010 with Tom Bridgeland

Brown - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Henry

jamesturnbull - Lead - 30/Jun/08 with nicos

willackers - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Tom Mills

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

bouldery start with a powerfull exit really good. so pleased now to have finally gone back to tick this one having failed in 2007 felt so much easier still what a great route.
andy gravestock - Sent rpt - 29/Dec/07 with steve, allex

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/07

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/07 with Dave Ferguson

Seconded with aid about 3 months ago! Lead clean today was awesome and didnt find it very hard! :)
Alex Mason - Lead - 07/Jun/07 with Vash

v.jester - 2nd - Jun/07 with alex

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 17/May/07 with Nic Sellers

never had to lay down power like that on a trad route before, brilliant
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07 with Al

Toby Dunn - 2007

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06 with Tim Banton

JulesV - 2nd - 05/May/06 with toby dunn

Boy - 2006

tuftynick - 2nd O/S - 2006 with pete hurley

Everything else looks wet - a good tick on an otherwise rubbishy damp day. Dennis doesnt second
steveb2006 - Lead - 05/Oct/02 with Dennis May

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

An attempt but come unstuck at the second crux and get completely pumped. After try to second Gareth on Carls Wark Crack and cant even get off the ground
steveb2006 - Lead dnf - 25/Mar/00 with Gareth Williams

Hidden - 2000

GeoffG - Lead - 22/May/99

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 19/Jul/98 with James Ibbertson

Wow 2 E4's in a day. Done before but doesnt make it that much easier. Pleased to get up it. Continue up top pitch then climb down it (nearly slipping on a wet foothold) as Rob cant second. abb from cave.
steveb2006 - Lead - 11/Jun/98 with Rob Gambles

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/93 with jon

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

steveb2006 - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/92

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

Pleased to get a clean lead of this classic route. Simon leads pleasant top pitch
steveb2006 - Lead - 23/Jul/91 with Simon Mee

Chris Wright - Lead - 17/Mar/90

keefe - 1990

Finally lead it after a bit of beta about doing the start. A slip/fall from the long reach to get the undercling/jam is the only flaw. Pleased to get this done on an uninspiring damp day
steveb2006 - Lead dog - 10/Jul/88 with Simon Mee

Hidden - 1988

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/Jul/87 with Colin Gilchrist

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

sadams - Lead β - 05/May/85 with John Dunne

Broke a hold and fell off well above the crux. In fact had to climb the crux twice because of it!
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/84 with Kim Greenald

Neil R - 2nd dog - 1984 with Ian

Mike Owen - 15/Nov/83 with Joe Picalli

TonyF - 2nd O/S - 1983 with Tony Cox

redjerry - Lead O/S - Oct/82 with Bob Duncan

Pedro50 - Lead rpt - 04/Oct/81

Hidden - Lead - May/81

Mark Kemball - Lead - 10/Aug/80 with John Jefferies

Hidden - Lead β - May/80

Work the start at the end of one day at the crag. Played on it again the following week to get it wired. Led it the next week - breeches and no chalk.
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980 with Nigel Baker

uphillnow - 2nd - 1980 with Al Bennett

mitch1960 - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead RP - 1979

Steve Bell - Lead O/S - Oct/78 with Paul Newman

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
humptydumpty, Andy Peak 1, PeteWilson, Bill Lawrence

Total votes cast 101
hard E50 of 35
E50 of 35
easy E50 of 35
hard E411 of 35
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easy E43 of 35
hard E33 of 35
E30 of 35
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hard 6c0 of 33
6c0 of 33
easy 6c0 of 33
hard 6b2 of 33
6b22 of 33
easy 6b4 of 33
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6a0 of 33
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3 Stars24 of 33
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Clean RP