Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Our Father** E4 6b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Scoop Wall
 
Menopause >>
[Willie Todd, Our Father E4 6a (at that time), Stoney Middleton, 3 kb]15m. A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time. 1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and small wires - hard to place. Move up to a peg then step right and make a long stretch for the undercut. Pull over and climb more easily to a cave belay, Friend 3 useful. Abseil off (indifferent belay) or safer and for the full tick.. 2) 5a, 10m. Step right to an easy, but well-positioned groove and the summit meadows. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1967. An awesomely impressive ascent for the time - the initial roof is probably a V5 or V6 boulder problem.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Willie Todd, Our Father E4 6a (at that time), Stoney Middleton © Pete Ogden
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Hidden - 2014

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13 with Ima Nahumury

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Sep/13

Few goes on the start but climbed the rest onsight, wouldn't want to be much shorter!
blaza1 - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with Mike Watson

Apharri - Lead β - 01/May/13 with Jim Gayler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 2013

thought the crux was the overlap, found the start easy
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with pep

climbingsheep - Lead dog - 30/Oct/12 with Mike Watson

mwatson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12

Howard Lawledge - Lead - 14/May/12 with Jack

steve_yo - Lead - 13/Aug/11 with smacks

harvie - Lead - 28/Apr/11 with Jo Mac

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/10

finished up menopause.
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/10 with nathan lee

Onsighted bouder start.
DaveFidler - Sent dnf - 10/Aug/10

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10

Felt very steady (being tall helps). Two cruxs with really easy climbing in between. Didnt bother fiddling with gear apart from wire at begining, just clip pegs and then tat for the undercut moves.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with alex mason

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with michael porter

dav - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Gill B

TonyF - 2010

A few swings at the start
ellis - 2nd - 2010 with Tom Bridgeland

Brown - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Henry

jamesturnbull - Lead - 30/Jun/08 with nicos

willackers - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Tom Mills

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

bouldery start with a powerfull exit really good. so pleased now to have finally gone back to tick this one having failed in 2007 felt so much easier still what a great route.
andy gravestock - Sent rpt - 29/Dec/07 with steve, allex

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/07

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/07 with Dave Ferguson

Seconded with aid about 3 months ago! Lead clean today was awesome and didnt find it very hard! :)
Alex Mason - Lead - 07/Jun/07 with Vash

v.jester - 2nd - Jun/07 with alex

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 17/May/07 with Nic Sellers

never had to lay down power like that on a trad route before, brilliant
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07 with Al

Toby Dunn - 2007

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/06 with Tim Banton

JulesV - 2nd - 05/May/06 with toby dunn

Boy - 2006

tuftynick - 2nd O/S - 2006 with pete hurley

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/02

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2002

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Mar/00

Hidden - 2000

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 19/Jul/98 with James Ibbertson

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/98

Hidden - 2nd - 1998

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/93 with jon

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/92

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

Billg - Lead O/S - 1992

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead - 17/Mar/90

keefe - 1990

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jul/88

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/Jul/87 with Colin Gilchrist

Hidden - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

sadams - Lead β - 05/May/85 with John Dunne

Broke a hold and fell off well above the crux. In fact had to climb the crux twice because of it!
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/84 with Kim Greenald

Mike Owen - 15/Nov/83 with Joe Picalli

redjerry - Lead O/S - Oct/82 with Bob Duncan

Pedro50 - Lead rpt - 04/Oct/81

Hidden - Lead - May/81

Mark Kemball - Lead - 10/Aug/80 with John Jefferies

Hidden - Lead β - May/80

Work the start at the end of one day at the crag. Played on it again the following week to get it wired. Led it the next week - breeches and no chalk.
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980 with Nigel Baker

David Smith - 2nd - 1980 with Al Bennett

Hidden - Lead RP - 1979

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/78

EagerAndy - Lead - 1978

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Hidden, humptydumpty, Andy Peak 1, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PeteWilson, Hidden, Hidden, Bill Lawrence, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 90
hard E50 of 32
E50 of 32
easy E50 of 32
hard E48 of 32
E418 of 32
easy E43 of 32
hard E33 of 32
E30 of 32
easy E30 of 32
hard 6c0 of 29
6c0 of 29
easy 6c0 of 29
hard 6b1 of 29
6b19 of 29
easy 6b4 of 29
hard 6a5 of 29
6a0 of 29
easy 6a0 of 29
3 Stars21 of 29
2 Stars7 of 29
1 Star1 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead51 of 77 (66.2%)
Followed7 of 77 (9.1%)
Bouldered2 of 77 (2.6%)
Alt Leads1 of 77 (1.3%)
Unknown16 of 77 (20.8%)

'Climbed'38 of 77 (49.4%)
clean O/S23 of 77 (29.9%)
clean β3 of 77 (3.9%)
clean rpt7 of 77 (9.1%)
clean RP1 of 77 (1.3%)
dogged3 of 77 (3.9%)
dnf2 of 77 (2.6%)