Derbyshire > Stoney Middleton >
 
Aurora* VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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50m, 2 pitches. An old favourite with good and varied climbing. The first pitch is generally easy, but very bold. The upper corner is the opposite. Start at the toe of the buttress. 1) 4c, 25m. Climb the bold wall out left then back right - care needed on this pitch with loose rock and few runners. 2) 4c, 25m. Jam and bridge up the corner crack right of the arete. At the top, move out left onto the arete for an astonishingly exposed finish. © ROCKFAX
FA. F.Elliott 1933

Ticklists: The Peak: past and Present, UK Classic Corners, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 220 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Guidebook (Rockfax) says P2 is brilliantly exposed, but it was a bit of a let-down. Should have done Aurora Arete HVS instead, looked much better. All a bit chossy though.
cathymiller - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Mike Peak

Fragmod - Lead - 09/Jul/14

Jack Loftus - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with John Weirs, Mat Brown

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 24/Jun/14 with Maia

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14

Just top pitch
the power - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/14 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/14

Led both. First is awful. Second is best vs pitch I've done at stoney. There was nest with chicks in on p2.
Cake - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

Racing the sunset. Hugh's first multi-pitch.
MarkRoe - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/14 with Hugh Wood

2nd Pitch,thanks to Mark
woody99i - AltLd - 06/Jun/14 with Mark Roe

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/14

P1
the power - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with paul29uk

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14

Some loose blocks but great position.
crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 04/May/14 with David Tidman

1P
drolex - 2nd - 30/Apr/14

Matt Cooke - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Andrew Cooke

Didn't bother with 1st pitch
PaulFidler - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/14

pulseroom - Lead - 13/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13

Phill Mitch - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/13 with bleggs

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/13

sgl - AltLd - 15/Jul/13 with Bart

It's only in this country that people climb this choss!
simon1965 - AltLd - 19/Jun/13 with dom

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/13

R2B - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Nick

Guy Wilson - 2nd - Apr/13 with Gavin Moy, Rick Cotgreave

Tony Kartawick - 2013

P2
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Adrian

JRigby - 2nd - 02/Sep/12

Tamati - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/12

thrilling
kwaidy - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/12 with sting

crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Hannah Renshall

sunshine.hannah - 2nd - 18/Jun/12 with James Sanders

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/12

Hedley - AltLd O/S - 14/May/12 with Aldred Durham

Lead 2nd pitch.
aldred - AltLd O/S - 14/May/12 with hedley procter

kenneM - Lead - 22/Jan/12 with Steve Crosby-Jones

Climbed upper pitch only in the rain; tough in the wet.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd rpt - 01/Jan/12 with Martin Haworth

In the rain.
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/12 with Andy

Hidden - 2012

Polly4 - 2012

Sean Kelly - 2012

Only did the second pitch. nice climbing if this is the correct climb :/
Reedymc - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/11 with Tony Holdsworth

didn't bother with the first pitch.
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 11/Nov/11 with Tom Reed

Skipped p1 today. P2 O/S. Enjoyed.
Oliver Branagan - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Miles M

Must be said some loose/wobbly/chossy rock. Easy climbing but take care. Good top pitch. P1 Steve. P2 Me.
nickmattia - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with stephenhartley

stephenhartley - AltLd - 02/Aug/11 with nickmattia

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Stuart Cartwright

James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Brad Cowley

braders94 - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with James Oakes

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/11

P2. Pretty rubbish / chossy.
JRae - Lead - 16/May/11 with P Latham

joe1979 - Lead - 17/Apr/11 with matt s

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Sep/10

led second pitch. felt longer than it said in the guide book. rained half way though so had a slippery top out. loved it!! tried the route the day before but got rained off at the first belay.
LukeP LCC - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10 with steve kirman

Just Pitch 2
eonuk - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Wayne

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/10

Led P2. Really excellent. The top of the first pitch has quite a lot of rattly holds, and is quite perturbing, but anybody who thinks this is HVS is in for a bit of a shock when they do any actual HVSs!
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Dan

Led P1. Pretty loose for one short section.
dpmUK - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with victim of mathematics

Pitch 1.
Oliver Branagan - Solo O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Miles M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10

Beautiful corner, really enjoyed this route!
natalie28 - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Rik

rikbattye - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with natalie28

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Rob Gray

Guy Atkinson - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/10 with James Fleming

Pown - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10

Pete Graham - 2nd - 05/Jul/10 with Dave Pownall

Gorgeous Climb. Two quite contrasting pitches. I led top pitch - fantastic; masses of gear; a bit bold. Beautiful sunny day. Belaying on top was a treat.
climbingrev - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Tim Angell

1st pitch - me; 2nd pitch - Hol. 1st pitch horribly loose with rubbish and spaced gear.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10

Ketu - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Graeme H

Tom led first pitch, poor gear. Top pitch long and exciting.
migs493 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Tom

tommo1664 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with mike smith

Just the 2nd pitch (had done the SHIT loose and scary 1st pitch before and as per original comments decided to walk up to the belay ledge) Good 2nd pitch and a much better climb without the 1st pitch.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd RP - 28/Mar/10

TonyF - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

Aa bit wet.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - AltLd rpt - 25/Oct/09 with Martin Haworth

daveclarke5 - 2nd - 04/Oct/09 with Andy

Ketu - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/09 with Nigel

Great jamming forgave the large amlount of suspect rock.
howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Page

middle aged slob - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Brian and Dave

We had to escape after 1st pitch due to heavy rain, which luckily only started just in after I'd finished the pitch as it was loose and lacking in much protection, making for a scary lead at VS, will walk up the path next time...
Graeme Hammond - Lead - 13/Jul/09 with Rob

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/09

Loose 1st pitch, then good hard crack/corner, made me sweat.
KeithW - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Burj Langdana

I led the first pitch which was loose and not much gear. There are a couple of pegs though. Then Kev led second pitch of Aurora Arete.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/09 with kev (lmc)

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/09

Lou Kennedy - AltLd - 01/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/09

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with Hannah Moulton

Lead first pitch
disturbed_one51 - AltLd - 02/Jun/09 with Hannah Moulton, Wee man

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/09

keith leonard - AltLd - 2009

TomHaigh - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/08 with Jarek

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Stu Harth

Jim Slater - AltLd rpt - 07/Aug/08 with Becky

Led the second pitch (the good one).
Becky E - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Jim Slater

fizzy_elephant - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Lloyd Betsworth

looked amazing from the road, but the climbing wasnt that sustained.
IanJackson - Solo - 22/Jun/08

matthewjc - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with Luke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08

TomHaigh - 2nd O/S - 09/May/08 with Paul Winders

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/08

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Second pitch only.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07

Led second pitch. Ok, I'll have to admit, Stoney has some good climbs, this one has a great position and some pretty fun moves.
adam carless - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Nick Smith - UKC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/07

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Tom Everett

in 1 pitch
tom.e - 2nd O/S - 02/May/07 with Tom Powell

Oceanic - May/07

smudge - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/07 with Ricky

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Mar/07

Led both pitches
cem - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Eric Olson

P2
Sidekick - Lead O/S - 2007

roberto18 - AltLd - 18/Nov/06 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Hidden - Lead - 08/Oct/06

MaccMark - Lead - 21/Aug/06 with Val Young

Matt - BodyPoint - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/06 with Dave Dillon

Only climbed second pitch
aulda - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Mark H

Phil1967 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Dan

smudge - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Phil

Nicos - 2006

godusty - 2nd O/S - 2006 with GARY WINTER

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/05

Threw a few disposable holds off P1.
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/05 with Erwin Bottomley

Nicos - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/05 with mark richardson

shark - Lead rpt - 11/Dec/04 with Mark Hundleby

robin heath - 2nd - 17/Jun/04 with Carl Riley

Hidden - Lead - 16/Mar/04

Brown - Lead - Jul/03 with Jessika

Hidden - Aug/02

Carl Smethurst - 2nd - 08/Dec/01 with Ian Pickles

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Apr/01 with Laura

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2001 with john d

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Mel, Dave, Ben, Pete

nickcanute - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 2000

barney@helmshore - 2nd - 23/May/99 with simon

Led 2nd pitch.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - 20/May/99 with Richard Bower

P1 only as we finished up Aurora Arete.
cem - 2nd - 18/Mar/98 with Graham Dolman

John Marsland - 2nd - 20/Aug/97 with Dave Mould

Trobbo - 2nd - 04/Apr/97 with john blower

Roget - Lead rpt - 03/Nov/96 with jon

Tim Bateman - AltLd - 17/Mar/96

colin milton - AltLd - 07/May/95 with eric milton

I lead first pitch
Chris the Tall - AltLd - May/95 with Bill G

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Oct/93

Chris Ellis - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/93 with Sue Smith

Roget - 2nd O/S - 25/May/92 with JT

andrew300169 - Lead O/S - 02/May/92 with Pom

nai - Lead - 1992

leathers - Lead - Mar/91 with Ed Hyatt

Led pitch 1
Iain Thow - AltLd - 07/Jun/89 with Paul Eastwood

Hidden - 1988

AndrewP - AltLd - 1988

Hidden - 1988

Hidden - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/85

John Marsland - 2nd - 01/Jun/85 with George Shaw

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/85

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/85

Steve Lenartowicz - 1985

malc - AltLd - 09/Sep/84

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Aug/84

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/84

Ian Clare - 1984

Ian Clare - 1984

First pitch only
shark - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/83 with Bongo

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/83

andy gittins - 1983

neilh - Lead O/S - Oct/82 with dave croker

Ena - AltLd O/S - Sep/82 with Martin Trouse

John Marsland - AltLd - 30/Jun/82 with Ian Stopforth

mark-abz - AltLd - 24/Apr/82 with Andy W

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1982 with Derek Shaw

First lead fall!
Bulls Crack - AltLd dog - 1982 with RW

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/81

Hidden - 1981

Ian Jones - 1981 with Rich Lewis, Dave Greenald, Paul Mitchell, Derek Hersey

ewar woowar - 1981

Hidden - 04/Apr/80

Hidden - Solo rpt - Mar/80

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1980

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Nic Robinson - AltLd - 1980

johnkeith - 2nd - 1980 with Alex Agnew

babymoac - Lead - Dec/79 with MTW

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/79 with Martin Veale

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/79

L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1979

beaumap - Lead - Jul/77 with Bernie Green

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/77

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 13/Jun/76 with John

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Mar/76

Tom V - 1976

rogerskews - 1976

GeoffG - AltLd - 30/Dec/75 with tony bowker

Hidden - 06/Jul/75

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/75

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/75

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Apr/75 with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson

Dave Musgrove - 23/Mar/75

petemeads - Lead - 1975

mikej - Lead - 21/Mar/74 with Stewart Grant

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 1974 with Bob Harrison

Followed up the route by Chris Bonington and Nick Estcourt.
Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1973

Dave Westby - Lead O/S - 1972 with Phil Caley

mikej - AltLd - 18/May/67 with Chris Bridge

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, mapperley samurai, Allen3859, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 132
hard HVS0 of 47
HVS0 of 47
easy HVS8 of 47
hard VS15 of 47
VS22 of 47
easy VS2 of 47
hard HS0 of 47
HS0 of 47
easy HS0 of 47
hard 5a0 of 43
5a0 of 43
easy 5a0 of 43
hard 4c1 of 43
4c39 of 43
easy 4c3 of 43
hard 4b0 of 43
4b0 of 43
easy 4b0 of 43
3 Stars15 of 42
2 Stars19 of 42
1 Star6 of 42
0 Stars1 of 42
Bag of .....1 of 42
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 220 (1.4%)
Lead73 of 220 (33.2%)
Followed46 of 220 (20.9%)
Alt Leads70 of 220 (31.8%)
Unknown28 of 220 (12.7%)

'Climbed'109 of 220 (49.5%)
clean O/S93 of 220 (42.3%)
clean rpt15 of 220 (6.8%)
clean RP1 of 220 (0.5%)
dogged1 of 220 (0.5%)
dnf1 of 220 (0.5%)