130m, 3 pitches. You can't miss it. The finest ice route in Wales, possibly in the UK?

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

adie84 05/Apr/13 -
Hidden 05/Apr/13 -
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd O/S
A Crook 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Superb day out with Simon Frost. Started early to avoid the impending thaw. The pillar had failed to touch down properly and instead it was a large ice umbrella. The whole route was in fact covered in them some being huge (biggest over 12ft). Quite spectacular and making the route some what harder than a straight up step VI. In fact it felt more like mixed VII (or French 6) than UK ice VI. Simon lead the crux moves with deft skill; which involved climbing up and behind (the initial umbrella)on thin ice then reaching up and round the umbrella to then delicately bridging on to it. Then ever so gently tap tap tap until on to more solid ground.(I ended up footless at this point due to using a stein pull for too many moves under it) The next 2 pitches were a Labyrinth of slabs/walls/umbrellas/groves that were sneaked up, around, under and over. Absolutely sublime climbing, continually varied requiring many mixed tricks (although on ice) to negotiate. Absolutely Brilliant and happy to repeat only next time when its a straight up and down chop up. ;)

frost 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Adam
masa-alpin 25/Jan/13 Lead O/S

At last! Ice melting fast, the route will disappear the next day. The quality of ice could have been better. In P2, I went slightly off-route to the groove in the left-hand side before traversing precariously on rotten ice back to the route (before the crux of P2). The ice being so thin in P2, there was only one reasonable gear (TriCam) in this 50 metre pitch after the initial 10 metres - very scary! Considering this is the first ice-climb of the season, my performance was satisfactory to me.

with Rob G
Misha 23/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing, a dream come true! Description to follow.

with Phil
philhilo 23/Jan/13 AltLd

Finally. First ice of year.Took big whipper off the pillar - mebee time to get some monos, horizontal bi points not good on v steep v technical, very delicate, much peddaling! Handed over to Misha who cruised it. Led p2 + 3 together - 60m and still hard. Awesome.

with misha
robgixer ?/Jan/13 2nd
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Dec/10 Lead
Glyn 26/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, an experience I wont forget. I lead the 2nd pitch. Very steep 1st pitch

with Steve Long, Calum Muskett
sam820 26/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Matt Sutton
Hidden 26/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
stevebarratt 12/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Great climb. Pitches 2 + 3 link with 60m rope.

with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden 12/Jan/10 -
Adam Booth 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Best winter route I've ever done! Been dreaming of getting this tick for 5 years, so yesterday was a dream cone true!

Brown 09/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with John
Ed Booth 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Top route! Adam led the pillar. I led top two.

AB1965 07/Jan/10 AltLd

With Baggy Richards, one v steep move followed by several steep moves for the first pitch on plastic ice. Second pitch brittle, the traverse right was thin. Thanks to Baggy for the telephone call. Cheshire cat impressions at the top.

phil64 ?/Jan/10 Lead

awesome, bit thin but worth the wait!!!

with owen samuels
Hidden 12/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden 12/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Derek Ryden ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Geoff Bennett
GuyM ??/2006 2nd
with si
Hidden ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Feb/04 2nd dnf
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 10
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set