UKC

370m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
300m. One of the best routes in the Aiguilles Rouges. A rambling start gives way to a spectacular second half featuring wonderful face climbing. The red tower pitch 5 is particularly great.
1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 4c, 4) 6b, 5) 6c, 6) 6c, 7) 6b+, 8) 6c. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent route taking the striking red pillar towards the right hand end of the face. The first part of the route isn't too hard but the upper half is very sustained. Start at the bottom of the short narrow couloir at the right end of the face. Take 17 quickdraws and 2x50 - or better 2x55 or 60. 6c Oblig. (The fifth pitch is more like 52m, so the second has to be ready to start... However there's no problem abseiling with 2x50 as it is more direct than the pitch - tie a knot in the end of the rope, anyway...) Read the notes on the topo regarding the descent carefully. Descent: abseil back down the route - don't miss the off-route abseil station to the left (facing in) of the first belay.

J de Montjoye / H Sharp Aug/2008.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kenny G 12 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hanger missing from last bolt of the pillar rouge pitch. Doesn’t feel too bad without it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hanger missing from last bolt of the pillar rouge pitch. Doesn’t feel too bad without it.
mic.snow 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: In the Piola topo the route is 300m ED- 6c, with the pitches as: 6a, 6a, 4b, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6c. This feels correct.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In the Piola topo the route is 300m ED- 6c, with the pitches as: 6a, 6a, 4b, 6b, 6c, 6c, 6b+, 6c. This feels correct.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Les Perrons de Vallorcine

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Voting
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Pillar of Freney

Grade: ED1 5c ***
(Mont Blanc)

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