UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the wall left of the big corner. Originally it was climbed direct, but now holds on the right are used. At least 6a+ if you go direct. The bolts to the left are the decommissioned The Lithuanian to the Left, 6b originally climbed as an E3. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Simmonite 1993.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hannah Scott 12 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute shocker. My mate led this, I nearly got squished by a HUGE block he knocked off between clips 6 and 7. Narrowly missed it, rock landed and smashed onto the rope, ripped it through to the core. Still lots of loose rock between these clips. V sketchy route, do not recommend!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolute shocker. My mate led this, I nearly got squished by a HUGE block he knocked off between clips 6 and 7. Narrowly missed it, rock landed and smashed onto the rope, ripped it through to the core. Still lots of loose rock between these clips. V sketchy route, do not recommend!!
JamesPellington 9 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed the left variation without using any of the crack or flakes on the right. Took a huge hold off just below the good left flakey sidepull just short of halfway up. Left variation definitely much harder than 6a (possibly harder again now, sorry!)
Show beta
βeta: Climbed the left variation without using any of the crack or flakes on the right. Took a huge hold off just below the good left flakey sidepull just short of halfway up. Left variation definitely much harder than 6a (possibly harder again now, sorry!)
bumblebum 31 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: pulled large hold off when clipping last bolt, and took a massive fall, wooo to air time :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pulled large hold off when clipping last bolt, and took a massive fall, wooo to air time :)
Richard 261 24 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Second time I've done it and it seems a bit harder than 6a (unless you wander right, almost into 'Sumo' territory) at the crux. Once you're into the flakes and side pulls it's a laugh.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second time I've done it and it seems a bit harder than 6a (unless you wander right, almost into 'Sumo' territory) at the crux. Once you're into the flakes and side pulls it's a laugh.
Tris 1 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did the Austin Powers variation to avoid the holds on the right, quite sustained climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the Austin Powers variation to avoid the holds on the right, quite sustained climbing
lithos 10 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: excellent moves on great holds that keep coming. 6a is fair, but it felt very intimidating to me, go for it and the holds all appear. Nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: excellent moves on great holds that keep coming. 6a is fair, but it felt very intimidating to me, go for it and the holds all appear. Nice.
Souljah 10 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Some awkward bolt possitions, good moves though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some awkward bolt possitions, good moves though.
Alan James - Rockfax 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The name 'Austin, Texas' springs to mind.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The name 'Austin, Texas' springs to mind.
Alan James - Rockfax 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Tried the direct version after doing the original route. It may be something to do with the way the route has 'weathered' up but just getting onto the direct version now seems very artificial especially with the new route to the left. Actually starting up Austin Powers and then moving right into Texan might provide a reasonable version of the direct on Texan.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried the direct version after doing the original route. It may be something to do with the way the route has 'weathered' up but just getting onto the direct version now seems very artificial especially with the new route to the left. Actually starting up Austin Powers and then moving right into Texan might provide a reasonable version of the direct on Texan.

Logged Ascents

1052 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 119
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coral Seas

Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

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