Slab and Nose Variations* HVS 5a

Rockfax Description
10m. Layback the slabby arete then step left and climb the side wall. © ROCKFAX

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This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Scary and pretty much unprotected until feet are at the big break on the slab. Couldn't reach the big bowl from the ground. Left hand layback to start on two footholds (left is marginal); slap left hand up arete and big high left foot into the small left dish, rocking over will then let you reach a good side pull on the left arete, followed by a good side jug in the big dish. Right foot up into the dish and then stand up to the good break (no hands rest). Protect with a big offset. Top part was tricky. Feet is marginal and top is bare except for the left hand crack. Swimming pool top out was best. Side wall is actually a bit further around than the book would suggest.
StevieLee - Lead G/U - 25/May/15 with James Tucker, Sam Tucker

SamT1 - 2nd β - 25/May/15 with Stevie Lee

Actually fell on this, rushed it, cocked up my footwork and lost balance on the Layback about 2/3 the way up.
SuperLee1985 - 2nd dog - 25/May/15 with stevie lee

Duncan Campbell - Sent β - 21/Feb/15 with Agatha Christie, The Hick, laura

Tithe Technique - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Committing reach at the top to the blind pocket...
charley - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Ange, Kev

Charley led, Kev seconded so I was third up. Really didn't think I had a hope of getting this one but after stepping up and down a time or two on the first move I got it clean. Found the bottom half the hardest and unable to reach the pocket on the second half I walked up the ramped crack using underclings and then a big step up with hands flat on the slope. Well chuffed to get it in the bag.
valentinesbabe - TR O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

BnB - 18/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/14

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with rachel somerville

Rachel Somerville - 2nd - 20/Jul/14 with Graham

robman - Solo O/S - 29/Jun/14

Fairly steady for HVS. May have gone a bit off route at the top
ralphio - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Sep/13

Hidden - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/13

SteveM - Solo - 13/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Feb/13

DaveAtkinson - Solo - 09/Sep/12

pastep - Solo - 06/May/12

PaulHermes - Solo - 06/May/12 with Tibor

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/12

minT(HUN) - Lead - 2012 with PaulHermes

minT(HUN) - Solo - 2012

fulton333 - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Sam Cooper

munch88 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with rob

munch88 - 2nd β - 09/Aug/11 with rob

robblowen - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Munch

furry - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with MikeLeeds

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Steve Morley

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/10

neil0968 - Lead - May/10

Hidden - Lead - 13/Sep/09

reinschgm - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Warren

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Gaz Scofield

edd rab - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/08 with Lawrence Rab

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/07

reg_measures - Solo O/S - 10/Sep/05

erica - 2nd - 17/Apr/05 with John

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/05 with Erica

OriginalGeckoboy - 1998

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 26/Nov/88

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 24/Apr/88 with Andy Say

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/88 with chris ellis

Hidden - 1988

Total votes cast 18
hard E10 of 6
E10 of 6
easy E10 of 6
hard HVS4 of 6
HVS1 of 6
easy HVS1 of 6
hard VS0 of 6
VS0 of 6
easy VS0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 6
5b1 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
hard 5a0 of 6
5a5 of 6
easy 5a0 of 6
hard 4c0 of 6
4c0 of 6
easy 4c0 of 6
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star5 of 6
0 Stars1 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean G/U