The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Rockfax Description
Climb the right wall of the groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Previously the last route in the quarry, now in the middle of the sector!
FA. Dave Simmonite, Nadim Siddiqui 1998.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Chris the Tall | 26 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Feels a bit run out, but probably isn't too bad. Nice technical moves | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Feels a bit run out, but probably isn't too bad. Nice technical moves |
||||
Pythonist | 13 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I don't know how much of the slight arete/corner, but with a few hands on it, it feels the low end of the grade, but sportingly bolted, so still gets the heart pumping. Actually, could do with a star, as it's the best thing at this end of the wall! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I don't know how much of the slight arete/corner, but with a few hands on it, it feels the low end of the grade, but sportingly bolted, so still gets the heart pumping. Actually, could do with a star, as it's the best thing at this end of the wall! |
||||
Tris | 1 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found it hard - was wet!!! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Found it hard - was wet!!! |
||||
Joe Costello | 17 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't think this deserves 6b. Only one real move. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Don't think this deserves 6b. Only one real move. |
||||
MNA123 | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: couple of hard moves after second bolt | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: couple of hard moves after second bolt |
||||
Bob1971 | 22 May, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route for the grade with only one hardish move. Some parts of the route are a little loose. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A good route for the grade with only one hardish move. Some parts of the route are a little loose. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: 6b ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)