UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
A perplexing wall featuring some 'rinky dink dinks and a Billy Brag' (thumb sprag). From a good low hold just above the break, reach up left to a sloper and teleport to the top break (left of the runnel). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Line on slopers on right hand section of wall. Very hard last move.

Dave Henderson 2004.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods , Dartmoor , Gone West , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A+ & Above) , Bovey Woods Top 20 , JaVu's Hard Dartmoor Bouldering ~2008

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

9 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Odyssey

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Lynmouth)

Loading Notifications...