Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.
Rockfax Description
A tiny groove and thin crack lead to the roof. Less good above, and beware the loose block. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Now well rebolted. Lower wall is good and technical, followed by a thoughtful move to the roof. The upper wall is pumpy to the top.
FA. Jim Burton, Gary Gibson, Nadim Siddiqui 1995.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adrian Berry | 5 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great little route - worth a couple of stars for the line and the climbing. There are some friable holds, but don't think this detracts from the quality of the routes - despite the view. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A great little route - worth a couple of stars for the line and the climbing. There are some friable holds, but don't think this detracts from the quality of the routes - despite the view. |
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| goi.ashmore | 25 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well bolted now, so no heart flutter symbols. Definately worth stars and probably just Fr7a+. Has one of the more unlikely no hands rests on limestone just below the crux. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Well bolted now, so no heart flutter symbols. Definately worth stars and probably just Fr7a+. Has one of the more unlikely no hands rests on limestone just below the crux. |
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| Gary Gibson | 20 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added. This route is now 7a with moreapproriately placed gear with agreement from the first ascensionist. Gary Gibson | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added. This route is now 7a with moreapproriately placed gear with agreement from the first ascensionist. Gary Gibson |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry
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Open Gate
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Upper)