UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The left arete has a loose start, but improves with height. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Nick Taylor, Andy Beaumont 2002.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Daveyc86 8 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe needs a re-grade as this felt far far harder than 6a. Given the comments that a lot of loose stuff has come off I do wonder if some key holds have come off making this feel more in the 6b+ region.
βeta?
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βeta: Maybe needs a re-grade as this felt far far harder than 6a. Given the comments that a lot of loose stuff has come off I do wonder if some key holds have come off making this feel more in the 6b+ region.
Paul Evans 12 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Well one less loose hold on the start now after Rich pulled it off and landed in the nettles. Watch for the big loose flake round the LHS of the arete near the top. Other than that, quite a nice route!
βeta?
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βeta: Well one less loose hold on the start now after Rich pulled it off and landed in the nettles. Watch for the big loose flake round the LHS of the arete near the top. Other than that, quite a nice route!
roger whetton 13 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think that the description should say 'has an appalling start'!
βeta?
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βeta: I think that the description should say 'has an appalling start'!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Coral Seas

Grade: 6a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)

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