UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
The area classic is a long right-to-left problem. Start up the flake, cross the runnel (tricky) and quest off across the line of better holds to the left until a scary rockover to easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome line. Start on big flake, span to jug rail out left and mantle to finish.

Dave Henderson.

Ticklists

Bovey Woods , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A & Under)

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
G.W. Twat

Grade: f6C ***
(Smallacombe Rocks)

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