UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
An immaculate line up the wall provides one of the best problems in the region. Low in the grade when you've done it but high in the grade if you fail. Take the line from bottom left to top right with a committing finish. . © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A contender for the best boulder problem in the South of England? Start at the lowest point of the wall, climb into the scoop, then head up and rightwards along the veins to a worrying finish.

Dave Henderson 2004.

Ticklists

Hard south west Boulders , Bovey Woods , Dartmoor , MoorMan Magic , Devon Bouldering (with a few honorary problems from Cornwall) , bOuLdErInG , South West Projects , Bovey Woods 3 Stars (f7A+ & Above) , Winter Bouldering in the UK - 7's , Another lifelist? , Bovey Woods Top 20 , JaVu's Hard Dartmoor Bouldering ~2008

Feedback

User Date Notes
RobHearnden 23 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently the first hold of the right vein is substantially smaller than the original.
Show beta
βeta: Apparently the first hold of the right vein is substantially smaller than the original.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 75 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tsunami

Grade: f7C+ ***
(Bonehill Rocks)

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