UKC

25m. A raunchy romp on pockets, the size of which will blow you away. Follow a right-curling, streaked groove (twin threads) to a hole (thread). Step right; then launch up the steep pocketed wall. Above, step left and finish up the strenuous groove (as for the two previous routes). Two-bolt belay.

T Penning, P Cresswell 1972.

Ticklists

Avon VSes , Stanners Mendip mischief ultimate experience ticklist of glory (and surrounding areas) , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge

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User Date Notes
jsriggs 25 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Giant swarm of bees in the last of the big holes above the steep bit today, not sure if they were just passing through or there for the duration, but there was no way I was going to climb through that lot!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Giant swarm of bees in the last of the big holes above the steep bit today, not sure if they were just passing through or there for the duration, but there was no way I was going to climb through that lot!
smile youve won 16 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Take some secateurs for the approach and maybe the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take some secateurs for the approach and maybe the route
PaulJepson 20 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced in-situ thread with a nice new bit of 8mm 20/09/19. A bit longer than it was but I had to guess before leaving the house!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced in-situ thread with a nice new bit of 8mm 20/09/19. A bit longer than it was but I had to guess before leaving the house!
Fergus Moore 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting mid-route. Dunno if it's protected or not, the nest and rat lunch gave me a bit of a shock on the way up
βeta?
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βeta: Birds nesting mid-route. Dunno if it's protected or not, the nest and rat lunch gave me a bit of a shock on the way up
David WW 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climbing up the pockets, not as steep as we expected, but very poor protection leading to the top, along way above gear!! Birds nesting / young chicks - route should be avoided for now
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing up the pockets, not as steep as we expected, but very poor protection leading to the top, along way above gear!! Birds nesting / young chicks - route should be avoided for now

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 26
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hell Gates

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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