170m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular route with great (and sharp!) rock. With the walk round option on pitch 5, it makes the whole route only 5+. 1) 4+, 40m. Start with an easy pitch traversing diagonally right on a slab. 2) 5, 15m. Climb up to a groove and then left to the belay. 3) 5+, 30m. An S-shaped pitch, ending in a little cave on an exposed pillar. 4) 5, 25m. Exposed! Climb out of the cave with 100m of fresh air below you, then up a pillar. The belay is higher up on a block 3m above a bushy ledge. 5) 6a+, 25m. Climb up a short chimney, then move right onto a slab to get to the top of a big flake. A couple of fingery moves reach the next stance. 5a) 40m. Pitch 5 can be avoided by scrambling round to the left via a short section of fixed rope. 6) 5+, 35m. Climb up right for 5m, then another 15m up a rib to a shallow groove. The block above is climbed on its right-hand side, then traverse horizontally left for 6m, around an edge. Move up to the belay. © Rockfax

A Mountain Journey 12/Nov Lead
Juliette Edwards 12/Nov Lead O/S

scrambled pitch 5, lead pitch 6 in order to top out after leading Silberruecken

derekb 24/Feb AltLd
with Cookie
derekb 24/Feb AltLd
with Cookie
Lea84 08/Jan 2nd

fantastic climb. Had to scramble round the 6a+ pitch due to loose boulders making it unsafe.

with Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy
afrosam 05/Jan Lead O/S

Did as part of a link up, Silberruecken, pitch 5 of Sonjannika then Moorhuhn

adrianj 02/Jan AltLd

Parked at top and walked around to the bottom, which is quite a long way.

Hidden 02/Jan AltLd O/S
redshapedfriday 29/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Debs Climber
Heike 28/Dec/14 AltLd

Great climb with Mark on a very windy day. Mostly sheltered til the top pitch from northwesterlies. i had to cling on for dear life in between gusts and then sprint for the next bolt. Excellent day out, though.

with Mark Gorin
TraverseKing 26/Dec/14 Lead
tmawer 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Last 2 pitches to finish other route. Not 6a+.

with chris king
alpinebutterfly 08/Jan/13 2nd
with S Guest, M Eddy
BelleVedere 07/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Climbed as a three. Used the walk around (fixed rope showing signs of wear) and the 5+ finish. Really lovely route on great rock all the way (Three Stars for sure); an excellent job on the equipping front too. I led last pitch.

A Mountain Journey ?/Jan/13 AltLd

Cracking day out, what a great route. Climbed again dec 13 during our next visit. On both occasions it was really hot!

KateA ?/Jan/13 AltLd
Ralphus 27/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
bsparky 27/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitches 1,3 & 6. Ralph lead 2,4 & 5 as it was the 6a+. Beautiful climb. Took four hours with a bit of faff on my behalf between pitches 3 & 4. When the logbook says exposed, they meant it!

lithos 21/Apr/12 Lead

inspired route finding up the cliff finding a line through the steepness. expect rope drag at the top !

with Pete Bradshaw, julie
Simon Caldwell 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Utterly brilliant, the highlight of the week. Carmen led pitches 1, 3, and 6, I led 2 and 4. We took the walking version of 5, but the rest was so continually good that this barely detracted from the overall experience.

with Carmen
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 AltLd
Shaw Brown 24/Mar/12 AltLd
chriisu 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome 3rd pitch! Very exposed!

Steve Waters, Mynydd 16/Feb/12 AltLd

With Moorhuhn Winter Edition finish.

mtempest 16/Feb/12 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
afrosam 19/Jan/12 Lead O/S
ClimbingWithPassion ??/2012 -
ClimbingWithPassion ??/2012 -
Peter Metcalfe 25/Dec/11 AltLd

Scrambled round 6a+ pitch using the fixed ropes, making grade 5+ overall

with Terry Sullivan, Cath Sullivan
Hidden 10/Nov/11 AltLd
stouffer 14/Sep/11 AltLd

Led 1,2 & 4 inc. cave pitch - wow! Concentration on said pitch wasn't aided by the boatload of bikini-clad Dutch girls floating around below!

climbingxcat 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Fab climb, did P1,3,6, loads of rope drag on 6! On 3 use the tat - it's been placed where a bolt would be 'nice'. R did the 6a+ pitch for us all!

with Alex and Rob, Brian
Hidden 02/Apr/11 AltLd
brianrunner 01/Mar/11 AltLd

Excellent route. Nice approach down a protected gully and good sustained climbing, more balancy than steep. The cave stance and exit are great.

with martina
Hidden 28/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Lacey 28/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
gjd 26/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

RockFax supplement has Winter edition wrongly described. That is the orange chimney/groove.

with mary stewart, Jim at Craigdhu
Hidden 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
mark4344 15/Mar/09 -

Fantastic route on great rock. Awesome cave position and great climb out onto face. Views and setting made it one of the best climbs around

with Michel
Hidden 04/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
auld al ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set