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|Lozere > Gorges de la Jonte >
|L'Arête ouest|| 6a |
<< Fissure Et Certaine!
Le rire des vautours >>
|110m, 3 pitches. 1) 5+, 2) 6a+, 3) 5+. © ROCKFAX|
A super 3 pitch arete route which can be found in the Cirque des Vases area on the road leading out of Le Rozier. This prominent piece of rock, (which becomes a pillar at the top) can be seen from the valley road, park in layby and follow rough steep path to base of climb (about 30 mins) First pitch starts off a large block and traverses slightly right to first stance on valley face - 5C in guidebook but more like 6A. Second pitch goes onto side face and provides sustained & super climbing - 6A in guide but more like 6A+. 3rd pitch is steady 5C climbing to top. Once at the top walk diagonally left and back towards main rock face. There is a large tree in the far corner with multiple rope slings, ab off this onto a large wedged block of rock (about 20 metres). A steep path, mostly protected with old rope loops, winds down between small trees growing between the main face and the pillar. The last section is newly protected and takes you to an ab point which descends through a chimney into a cave. You can then walk back to the start.
Photo: Teams on l'arête ouest. © nr
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This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.
Dizz - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/13 with EJ
Catsjit - 10/Jul/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12
Stunning territory for the grade. (F6a,6a++,5c).
Jon Read - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Debs
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12
Very nice position
AJM - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/11 with Ali Baylay
mr mills - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/10 with alun hughes
Dave Reeve - AltLd O/S - Jun/08 with Tony Payne
Mega route, great line for the grade. Led last pitch, belayed right on top, and a vulture glided at me and cruised just over my head!
Cheshire Dave - AltLd - 1995 with Pete
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, gintsasn, racerfozzy, madeleine, nr