Rockfax Description
A great climb, again with a final scary run-out which may make it feel like an E5. After a fingery start, continue more easily to the break. Crank upwards to the final bolt, chalk your hands up and go - right has more holds but straight up has a good flake. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A great climb, no longer with a scary run-out. After a fingery start, continue more easily to the break. The headwall is sustained on crimps and flatties, where good footwork pays dividends. The final bolt is by a good flake to prepare for the finishing moves.

FA. Gary Gibson 1985. Gary also added the direct start in

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

Jake Young 13/Sep Lead RP
with Ed
Stroppy 13/Sep Lead dog
with Jake Young
Hidden 06/Sep Lead dog
psborland 06/Sep Lead dog

1, 2

with Dean
psborland 06/Sep Lead dog

1, 2

with Dean
David Sherratt 27/Aug Lead
simon1965 27/Aug Lead dog

Dogged to put clips in , one decent attempt on TR then not so good.

Nick Sherring 17/Aug Lead RP

A pumpy number, felt closer to 7a+ overall to me, maybe the mid height break let's it off. Really good second half though, tricky!

with Tom Holdstock
Duncan Campbell 07/Aug Lead RP

Stupid foot pop lowdown. Lowered straight down and climbed to the top.

with Katie W, Dave Morse
david morse 07/Aug Lead β

Taking the retro on this. Tricky

with KT, dunkymonkey17
Hidden 28/Jun Lead G/U
Hidden 28/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Jun Lead O/S
Nick Sherring 12/Jun Lead dog

Good route, though not as good a Open Gate - is further right at the top the intention or not? Not straightforward either way and needs good footwork and endurance. Nice one.

with Steve McClure
spidermonkey09 11/Jun Lead O/S

Draws in. Not nearly as good as Open Gate and felt about the same grade. Bit odd near the top- there are a lot of chalky holds on the right of the bolts, which the guide gives permission to use, but felt like the bolt was too far left.

mattwyles1 08/Jun TR RP

Been on before, second go on tr, fluffed redpoint worrying about a clip.

with Andy
phil64 04/May Lead RP

couldnt do on tr then managed on 1st rp!.. great rte

with phil baker
Hidden 26/Apr TR
bigdrew 25/Apr Lead O/S
with Mark R
Luke Dawson 23/Apr Lead O/S
dannyboy83 21/Apr Lead O/S


Tophe 21/Apr Lead O/S
with Dan
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/Apr Lead O/S

Felt desperate, far less obvious moves than Open Gate AND with a much harder start.

drcorbasisgod ?/Apr Lead O/S
with Scott Walter
oldcheese ??/2015 -
stp ??/2015 -
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
Alex@home 14/Aug/14 Lead RP

1 TR to work moves, 2 clean TRs then done 1st RP. Really good varied, technical climbing. 2nd 7a

Mick r 13/Aug/14 Lead RP

had a play a couple of weeks ago but too hot in the sun. lot better conditions this time and went fairly steadily once I had the sequence for the top wall. Still hard to get your arse off the ground though

with Dave L
justin c 28/Jul/14 Lead RP

Desperate start and technical head wall. I thought they were both as hard(open gate) as each other with this hard start - sort of balanced the grade. . Just not quite as sustained .. Good route

with steph crowley
Toby Dunn 12/Jul/14 Lead β
with Eric Hildrew
jamesturnbull 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with dave brown
thebigfriendlymoose 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

a disconcertingly slopey warmup!

with Stephen
Haydn Jones 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

felt hard.

with neil jobling
jamiev 19/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Tim Parkinson
drysori 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
Ian Broome 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Si dH 17/May/14 Lead RP

1st rp

with Olly
harvie ??/2014 Lead β
with mark
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead β
Matt Cooke 21/Sep/13 Lead dog
with Rosh
Rich Kirby 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Pete, Steve & Dal
Chris_barr 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Slopey and warm

with Jon
jamesgodwin64 07/Jul/13 Lead RP

Done after 6 goes (on different days) bit of helpful beta at the top and i was done :D

with John Copper
jamesgodwin64 03/Jul/13 Lead dog

loved it but got it better first go than second and the top bit is right, make sure you've got something in the tank you'll need it, still a nice decent fall from the top nothing bad though :)

with John Copper
Hidden 30/Jun/13 TR dog
mark20 17/Jun/13 Lead β
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead RP
Ian Broome 11/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Struggled with the slopers in the warmth 4 years previous, first try this eve harder than Open Gate?

soph 11/Jun/13 Lead

tricky start - fell off first go

with Brian McAlinden
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 09/Jun/13 2nd
with loundsy
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith ?/May/13 -

not much cop really

Brannock 09/Sep/12 Lead dog

Bolt to Bolt, then one go, hard.

Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead dog
Dan Jenkin 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with James Jacobs
nathanlee 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

felt hard, hmmmm. failure on orange sunshine....

Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Hannes B 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Aidan
DDDD 19/Jun/12 Lead RP

Fell off on the alzheimers onsight at the top. got it first RP. Hard start for the grade.

with Sham
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead RP
James Oakes 13/Aug/11 Lead dog

Fell off last move trying to onsight, then fell off in the same place on next go. Next time.

Bill Lawrence 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with oaksi2
Dave Musgrove Jnr 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead RP
Bry 28/Jul/11 TR dog
with Kim
JulesV 23/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with dave evans
Hidden 05/Jul/11 Lead
mic_b 03/Jul/11 Lead RP
with James Blake
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
simon1965 02/Jul/11 TR

Just when I thought 7A was in my sights. Felt I could work the first two thirds but after that felt too tenuous. Still finished it but too much faff at top...

Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead β
highrepute 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
Cragrat Rich 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Blew the onsight early on at the difficult start... Bugger. Turned too hard higher up anyway though. Got it clean shortly after. Nice sequences.

jacobjacob 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gregoritos 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dominic lee 19/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with andy elliot
Andrew Barker 19/Apr/11 Lead

Had tried a couple of years ago and failed miserably on the headwall. Got pretty pumped today but did it first try.

dav 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Gill B
Gus 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with sam whittaker
bigie bob 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
steepstuff 02/Apr/11 -
with Rob
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 29/Jul/10 2nd dog
with loundsy
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 TR RP
Nick Taylor 21/May/10 Lead RP
with Tom Martin
jondude 13/May/10 -
goi.ashmore 10/Sep/09 Lead RP
with James Rees
Stig 10/Sep/09 Lead RP

Warmed up bolt to bolt, went first go. Completely underestimated the first wall. Tried in spring 08.

with Goi
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead
mbutton ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead rpt
tuftynick 10/Jul/09 Lead β
with nick warren
robbo 21/Jun/09 Lead RP

Got first go after a run up it bolt to bolt. Really good route. Hard start

with Rob Napier
shark 14/Jun/09 Lead

Hindsight. Tired. Came of once at start, z-clipped high up and traversed right for a rest at the tree.

skygodley 13/Jun/09 Lead RP

The start is as hard as the crux on Tremelo!

Ian Broome 24/May/09 Lead dnf

hard for grade

Alex Mason 02/Apr/09 Lead dnf

stepped right to a lower off and then realised it was the wrong one, however had i gone straight up i would have failed anyway, has this lost holds? looks desperate!

with Guy VG
Ian Parnell 21/Sep/08 Lead RP
with zippy
Oli 21/Sep/08 Lead RP

Put the clips in, then first RP. Tried to clip the last bolt from about 3 different positions but couldn't easily so skipped it.

with Jon R
Hidden 07/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Stig 31/May/08 TR
with Greg
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Ram MkiV 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with tom & alex
Ropeboy 10/Jun/07 Lead
robyn1 ??/2007 -
Boy ??/2006 -
steve_biczyk ??/2006 Lead RP
with Keith Clarke
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mick 11/May/03 Lead RP
with Ian
nige ?/Jul/02 Lead
with mark hounslea
kristian ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/99 Lead O/S
sadams 26/Jun/99 Lead
with Pete Bukowski
Roget 09/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Billg ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
Gregory ??/1994 -
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 29/Jun/91 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/90 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, thejunglist, AsleepOnBelay, Duz, Gambit, Oliver Branagan, James Oakes, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set