UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

45m, 2 pitches. Rockfall has changed the 1st pitch to 5a. 2nd pitch steep 4c.

Ticklists

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
flash635 18 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: After the rockfall the traverse on Pitch 1 is harder than 5a. If you are physically so small you can fit through the gap to exit the chimney at right then the pitch would still be 4a/b. If you are average size and wearing a helmet you would need to perform a no-feet hand traverse (feet would be hanging in space) on the flat quartzy finger break, duck under the projecting overhanging flake and then perform a a tricky mantelshelf onto a completely flat, dusty ledge. You can protect it well with small cams, so it might be HVS as its well protected and safe, but if you come off you are going to have to lower all the way to the ground or prussik to get back on. Or do what I did: put a small cam in the horizontal finger break as far to the to the right as you can, clip a long sling with 1 overhand knot in the middle and use it as a foot sling for 1 pt aid (C0). Then its still VS and makes it a bit different! Top pitch is good and interesting for VS - bold pull at 4c through big flakes rightwards then plenty of gear in an easy (HS) groove. Just don't expect the bottom pitch to be the VS it is given in the guidebook.
Show beta
βeta: After the rockfall the traverse on Pitch 1 is harder than 5a. If you are physically so small you can fit through the gap to exit the chimney at right then the pitch would still be 4a/b. If you are average size and wearing a helmet you would need to perform a no-feet hand traverse (feet would be hanging in space) on the flat quartzy finger break, duck under the projecting overhanging flake and then perform a a tricky mantelshelf onto a completely flat, dusty ledge. You can protect it well with small cams, so it might be HVS as its well protected and safe, but if you come off you are going to have to lower all the way to the ground or prussik to get back on. Or do what I did: put a small cam in the horizontal finger break as far to the to the right as you can, clip a long sling with 1 overhand knot in the middle and use it as a foot sling for 1 pt aid (C0). Then its still VS and makes it a bit different! Top pitch is good and interesting for VS - bold pull at 4c through big flakes rightwards then plenty of gear in an easy (HS) groove. Just don't expect the bottom pitch to be the VS it is given in the guidebook.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 5
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jo

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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