Rockfax Description
A great climb on perfect rock which is one of the best sport routes in the Dale. The move off a pocket, above the bulge, proves to be a stopper for some, especially those who are a little on the short side. A wire or two might help on the final section. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1981

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic UK F7s, World Graded List, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

Laurence Everitt 08/Oct Lead dog

Tried on TR last year also. Frustratingly close.

Owen Diba 08/Oct Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 23/Sep Lead rpt
with Andrew James
Harry Chaplin 23/Sep Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Aug TR dog
Jake Young 29/Aug Lead RP
Dave Mayes 23/Aug Lead RP

Nice rock! Backed off at the peg cos the groove was running with water, done it before a few times so not bov.

LBrown 15/Aug Lead β

Good Beta.

with Alex
GeneralFifi 26/Jul Lead dnf

Felt hard at the start but also really cool

mop449 26/Jul Lead dnf
MrBIond 25/Jul Lead RP
mrteale 25/Jul Lead RP


with MrBlond
Speed Reed 17/Jul Lead RP
with Robin Richmond
Alice.001 13/Jul Lead RP

Definitely 7b. Hard.

mrteale 08/Jul Lead dog
Simon Davis 03/Jul Lead RP
with Tim P
Hidden 26/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Jun TR dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 23/Jun Lead RP

A hold has come off low down (before the first bolt) making it harder. That said, even with this that move in the middle would still have been desperate for 7a+. Still, that's Peak lime for you...

penny.orr 23/Jun Lead

Definitely solid 7b (apparently a big hold missing). Still, really enjoyable climbing!

nathanlee 23/Jun Lead RP

Fell off the crux on the retroflash. Second go steady, classic

with Will Pettet-Smith
Hidden 19/Jun TR dnf
Nick Sherring 11/Jun Lead RP

Finally. tricky crux but eventually found quite a nice static way with a drop knee and not using the rubbish far right chalked crimp, made it more on the grade for a solid 7b. Great route!

Dan 85 05/Jun Lead dog
with Andy
MartinPL 04/Jun Lead

right hand in the pocket, reaching left high over the bulge to the crimp

Nick Sherring 29/May Lead dog
amccann 09/May Lead RP

1st RP after putting the clips in.

with Rory, Pete B
ashtond6 07/May Lead dnf

Could barely get off the floor!

Hidden 05/May Lead rpt
Tommyads ??/2016 -
fennerz 06/Sep/15 Lead β
with Simon
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead RP
danJBA 23/Jun/15 Lead
with James R
john lynch 19/Jun/15 Lead RP

1st RP, quite a hard start with broken hold.. crackin climbing!

with john, Jim gaylor, Tom, adam harrison
mattwyles1 10/Jun/15 -

***broken hold*** the big side pull before moving right to the crux pocket has come off. Now not possible by original method, and likely much harder.

Louishmouis 10/Jun/15 Lead G/U

FA without jug :P

drcorbasisgod ?/Jun/15 Lead RP

First to climb this after the recent hold loss? Definitely 7b now?

Nickc ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead RP
Jack93 07/May/15 TR

Really hard, couldn't do the big move around the bulge in the middle

Dale Comley 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Robin, roshan
Luke Dawson 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
James Oakes 20/Apr/15 Lead RP

2nd go

drcorbasisgod ?/Apr/15 Lead dog
oldcheese ??/2015 -
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead RP
david morse 03/Aug/14 Lead RP

First redpoint. Tough!

with KT, markalmack, chris todd
markalmack 03/Aug/14 Lead β
dannyboy83 09/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Maisy, Ben Ochner
Brown 07/Jul/14 Lead
The old James turnbull 07/Jul/14 Lead
with dave brown
thebigfriendlymoose 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Stephen
drysori 28/Jun/14 Lead RP
Joughton 26/Jun/14 Lead RP

Hard! Really packs a punch.

Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead RP
C coldwell-storry 25/Jun/14 Lead β
with Ryan
Haydn Jones 24/Jun/14 Lead RP

did this to warm up, thinking it was darl, thought it was quite hard...easy 7b

with phil
Matt Broadhurst 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

Cool climb, can certainly see why its a "top 50". warmed up on it between bolts then did it :)

Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Tophe 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Ochner
Somerset swede basher 21/May/14 Lead RP
with Adam
nai 16/May/14 Lead RP
with Andrew
Ethan 05/May/14 Lead β
with Gracie
Matt Fry 03/May/14 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 05/Apr/14 TR dog
Hidden ?/Apr/14 -
NDD 29/Mar/14 Lead
with Mike Watson
ejected ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
AdamHodgson ??/2014 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
James Malloch 24/Sep/13 Lead RP
Matt Cooke 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Rosh
davidliu 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Dave P
derico 24/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Aug/13 Lead RP
J.Wells 27/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Ima Nahumury
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
valecoastclimber 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
soph 18/Jun/13 Lead dnf

couldn't do crux move

Hidden 17/Jun/13 Lead RP
Ian Broome 15/Jun/13 Lead rpt

First few clips in then 1st go.

with Grant
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
tebs 19/May/13 Lead RP

2nd redpoint, amazing. Went from feeling desperate to feeling like a path on the successful lead. Great route too, varied and hard!

with Andy
tebs 16/May/13 TR RP

Feels ok. Should go next time with a bit of luck.

with Andy
w.pettet-smith 07/May/13 -

flashed with a bit of beta, really pleased. class route.cheedale after work needs to become a more regular event

with jonny
Chris_barr 27/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Tom, Gus, Bob
climbingsheep 10/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Adam Sells, Jonny Reay, Mike Watson
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead RP
Joe Costello 01/Jun/12 Lead RP

Excellent, but not 7a+ if you can reach past the crux - I can't!

Jonny Slarke 27/May/12 Lead RP
mark20 02/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead RP
Dan Jenkin 25/Mar/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with Ellie Pygall
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
rockjedi 19/Sep/11 Lead β
with Julian Heath, Chris Fox
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd β
Stewart B 05/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Dave Redpath
maybe_si 28/Jul/11 Lead RP

put draws in, Quick top rope then lead first go

Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead RP
westyb3 24/Jul/11 Lead β
with Tom Harrison
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead RP
jacobjacob 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
gregoritos 04/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Stig 25/May/11 Lead RP
with Richard
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead dog
alaan 20/Mar/11 Lead RP

Missed the slap to the crimp the first couple of tries, then ran a few laps for good measure.

with Broom
Ian Broome 20/Mar/11 Lead dog

Messed it up a few times and didn't have any arm left!

with Al
maybe_si ??/2011 -
robandian ??/2011 Lead dog
blaza1 ??/2011 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 -
Stig 16/Oct/10 Lead dog
with Goi
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
zero six ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 TR dog
i_a_coops 30/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Mark
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead RP
dominic lee 04/Aug/10 Lead rpt
richsmithinbristol 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S


Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead dog
Gambit 07/Jul/10 Lead RP

Took a bit of doing and working out the best sequence, not what I first thought. My first 7a+ in the peak now that Rubicon has been downgraded.

with Dave, Barney
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/10 2nd dog
bigie bob 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
highrepute 02/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead RP
gregoritos 15/May/10 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 07/May/10 Lead
Stig 01/May/10 Lead dog

Got all the moves.

with Goi
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead RP
Ian Broome 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Nick
Bolehillbilly 03/Oct/09 2nd
with Tom Rainbow
Hidden 15/Aug/09 TR rpt
tuftynick 16/Jul/09 Lead RP
with nick warren
Hidden 16/Jul/09 -
tallsop 05/Jul/09 TR

did in two parts, too tired really, after being on esmerelda.

with Mark
ukb shark 14/Jun/09 Lead RP

1st go redpoint.

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/09 TR dog
Andrew Barker 12/Jun/09 Lead RP

First redpoint after figuring out the beta on the previous go. I don't think this is any more than 7a+, it only seemed desperate until I found some good beta.

with Jack Symmons
mbutton ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Alex Adgar
Hidden 29/May/09 TR dog
Hidden 11/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 10/May/09 TR dog
Hidden 10/May/09 2nd dog
Ian Broome 07/May/09 Lead

1st Redpiont, 2 goes on top rope, easier then Darl?!

with Dave
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead RP
tedj234 ?/May/09 -
with Nicolas Rabb
Hidden 29/Apr/09 TR dog
SiW 26/Apr/09 -
lx 05/Apr/09 Lead

I think worth 7b. Not sure if its reachy either. You have to be really tall for it to make it much easier

with james
OffshoreAndy ??/2009 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??/2009 Lead
Billg ??/2009 Lead RP
with Dave Gregory
Toby Dunn 02/Sep/08 Lead
with Fi Fullwood
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 03/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Eric and Es
morganator 24/Jun/08 2nd
with Andy Cave
mattyork2 23/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Steve Aherne
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden 14/May/08 Lead
goi.ashmore 03/May/08 Lead RP

Horrorshow! More like Fr7b

with Mark Richardson
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead RP
Gus 09/Apr/08 Lead RP
Fraser13 ??/2008 -
Stig 04/Aug/07 TR dog
with Goi
Ram MkiV 09/Jun/07 Lead RP
with andy & sam
Alex Mason 02/Jun/07 Lead

got it second go, hardest route ive done on paper although i cruised it, didnt do the big span move used the crimps.

jondude ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead O/S
andi turner 18/Apr/07 Lead RP

Clips in, then up.

with Gus Hudgins
robyn1 ??/2007 -
andy farnell 16/Jul/06 Lead RP

Great route, top of the grade, bouldery crux

with Ian Patterson
Dave Bond 04/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead RP
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 Lead β

After ant

with Ant
Boy ??/2006 -
steve_biczyk ??/2006 Lead RP
with Keith Clarke
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 08/Jun/05 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
mark s ??/2005 -
kristian ??/2005 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2005 Lead
with .
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
nige ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Stoney Boy 18/Aug/93 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/92 Lead RP
keefe 14/Jul/91 -
sadams ?/May/91 Lead RP
with Kev Mellieu
ukb shark ??/1991 Lead

Year a guess -ground up over several visits.

DDDD ??/1990 Lead RP
with Simon Lee
Hidden ??/1990 -
Mike Owen 21/May/88 -
with Tim Lowe
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
stp ??/1984 -
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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 65
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set