Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
The slanting groove is one of the few really hard trad routes on Peak Limestone. Rarely climbed, it remains an important tick for the aspiring. The hard lower wall (the 6c bit) is protected by wires in the break and the bolt on Boring. Above this, only tenacity and a will to survive will get you to the top. There is a wire to aim for, and a good skyhook, but there is a ground fall to worry about before you reach it. © Rockfax
FA. J.Woodward 1982. Named for Jerry Moffatt who used one of his 9 lives when not quite making the first ascent!.
Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Hard Peak Limestone Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Peaklime_bagger | 20 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps about 7b. Rock not perfect, especially on lower wall. Good gear in the break then a skyhook and microwire (best not tested) and another small wire near the top. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Perhaps about 7b. Rock not perfect, especially on lower wall. Good gear in the break then a skyhook and microwire (best not tested) and another small wire near the top. |
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Grade: E7 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)