UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

20m.

Rockfax Description
The slanting groove is one of the few really hard trad routes on Peak Limestone. Rarely climbed, it remains an important tick for the aspiring. The hard lower wall (the 6c bit) is protected by wires in the break and the bolt on Boring. Above this, only tenacity and a will to survive will get you to the top. There is a wire to aim for, and a good skyhook, but there is a ground fall to worry about before you reach it. © Rockfax

FA. J.Woodward 1982. Named for Jerry Moffatt who used one of his 9 lives when not quite making the first ascent!.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Hard Peak Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Peaklime_bagger 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps about 7b. Rock not perfect, especially on lower wall. Good gear in the break then a skyhook and microwire (best not tested) and another small wire near the top.
Show beta
βeta: Perhaps about 7b. Rock not perfect, especially on lower wall. Good gear in the break then a skyhook and microwire (best not tested) and another small wire near the top.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 2
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Lines

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

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