North Buttress (West Route)*** IV 4
[Hurry up, 2 kb]300m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Great routes in the Coe, Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray.

Photo: Hurry up © flett53
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 237 logbooks, and on 38 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/14

Lead chimney pitches including the exit. Nice start to the winter season.
olekemi - AltLd rpt - 13/Dec/14 with Colin D

Took the left-hand side of the crux as had been cleared by those ahead and the right-hand side was buried. Much trickier than I remember the right side being.
niallk - AltLd rpt - 23/Mar/14 with Willie

DundeeDave - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Ewan Gourlay

colenn - AltLd - 23/Mar/14 with Liam Brophy

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Mar/14

Beautiful day, warm spring sunshine on the walk in but very wintry once out of the sun and on the route. Did the left variant half way up the chimneys and left top out (both tech 5 IMO). The route is a pretty solid IV even with good neve. A brilliant very enjoyable line. Due to avalanche hazards Steve insisted on descending the south side of the mountain and walking back along the Glen Etive road....took 3 and a half hours from the summit!
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/14 with Steve Grove

Stuart Wildman - 2nd - 02/Mar/14 with Neil

gordon henderson - AltLd - 02/Mar/14 with Paul Rochford

Difficult approach to route up the lower slopes of North Buttress due to soft wet snow. Climb in excellent condition with a good build-up of nevi snow. Walk off via Stob Dearg, 902 and the ridge west of Coire na Tulaich. Good conditions but high avalanche risk in coires.
Roch - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/14 with Gordon Henderson

Good climbing. Abbed off after second pitch due to time. And to the Dundee lads, fair play, who needs crampons anyway ?!
Nath93 - 2nd - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Grim and slushy. Lead p2&4
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/14 with Ali Baxter, Pat Brien, Dan Slome

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/14

moose ridd - AltLd - 20/Feb/14 with M.Sadler

Following a couple of PyB parties of 3, but still got off in reasonable time. Lovely route, made a bit more technically interesting at the moment but the snow on the rock being a bit wet and unconsolidated.
andybuckley - AltLd - 19/Feb/14 with Tom Whipple

Tom Vivian - 2nd - 19/Feb/14 with Spike Sellers, Jonathan

KlaasW - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Brendan bailey

Dougbart - Lead - 16/Feb/14 with DONATELLA, Niel

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14

Matt Harle - AltLd - 15/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/14

MIC Trg
Tarquin - 11/Feb/14

Wild windy day so abbed back off when finished. Good day though
tallpaulselfridge - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/14 with Chris Smith

In good condition approach slopes had deep slushy snow which made it a bit of a slog to get to.
chris smith - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/14

Only first and second pitch, ab off
bedsforsleepypeople - 09/Feb/14 with Ben Davenport

n.LiVE - AltLd dnf - 09/Feb/14

Superb Neve on the route. Snowed more or less all day and rained below us. Abbed the line to get off and had horrible descent on loaded wet slopes.
stratandrew - AltLd rpt - 08/Feb/14 with Clay Conlon

Great route and good conditions, led P3.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/14 with Andy S

Conditions varied on route good squeaky neve on the first two pitches then a little less consolidated after that, good weather at last.
easers - AltLd - 07/Feb/14 with Doug

Dougbart - AltLd - 07/Feb/14 with Iain

magik_bob - 2nd - 07/Feb/14

JRae - AltLd - 06/Feb/14 with Ben Kelsey, Paul M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/14

Drove up wednesday night and a late start on this. Me - p1 (easy romp to get the eye in) Jonny - p2 nice moves Paul - p3 harder variation with thin moves through the top slab. Topped out onto the summit in the dark and down by half 8. good first route of the season
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/14 with Paul Murdy, JRae

pmurdy - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/14 with Ben K, Jonny Reay

jules1990 - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/14 with Rob, Tim Neil

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Feb/14

Good fun. Busy route today!
arose - AltLd - 04/Feb/14 with Scott Brooks

Ryan23 - 2nd - Feb/14

martinmckenna - AltLd - 30/Jan/14 with John

Winter Climbing Foundation
Tarquin - Lead - 23/Jan/14

Luci - 22/Jan/14 with Euan, Gail

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/14

Brian Pollock - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Florian, Luca

Carol lead 1st and 3rd pitch, I did the middle and we soloed the rest. Great neve on the route.
jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Carol

Fab route with good neve. Led 1st and 3rd pitches and soloed the top section.
Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/14 with Jonnie Williams

Good nick. Superb mountaineering day out.
Brucemacrosson - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with Ewan Paterson

Ewanski - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with Bruce M

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/13 with david allan

andybroadway - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/13 with Ole Kemi, Mark Gorin

Plenty of snow. Given the conditions, a mixed route relying on snow-plastered rock provided a great start to the season. Alone on the face.
olekemi - AltLd O/S - 09/Nov/13 with Andy B, Mark G

MLH - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Dave Buckett

Tarquin - 07/Feb/13 with Subbs

carl_123 - AltLd - 07/Feb/13

mjsmith1973 - 2nd - 05/Feb/13 with Mike Pescod

lberry - 2nd - 04/Feb/13

Led 1 and 3. Great day, alpine like finish
abbeywall - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with K

Glorious. Finished in the dark as we were in a queue, but that didn't detract from the spectacular setting and the variety of climbing - rock, turf, neve.
Tom Stoddart - Lead - 02/Feb/13 with Dave Battley

flett53 - 2nd - Feb/13

bob johnson - 2nd - 26/Jan/13 with Mike Pescod, Rich Ball

lead chimney pitches, very nice!
Dougbart - AltLd - 20/Jan/13 with david bird

Scott Rankin - AltLd - 19/Jan/13

RKernan - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/13 with Alek Zholobenko

mrbird - 19/Jan/13

Traversed from rough ground onto this route by accident after failing to find curved ridge in all of the cloud, so only actually led the final 50m pitch of technical climbing - excellent pitch! Moved together for the final 150-200m of scrambley type ground to the summit.
mattking_109 - Lead - 19/Jan/13 with Sam

Gordon Lacey - 19/Jan/13

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jan/13

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jan/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13

rob16 - AltLd - 2013

DougSt - AltLd - 2013 with jeff thorley

Excellent lean low down
michaelb1 - AltLd - 28/Nov/12

Ed Saint - Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

tomdude - AltLd - 19/Feb/12 with adrian macleod

Only winter-ish conditions. Solo-ed bottom and top, and did two pitches for the cruxy middle. Em led both the pitches.
LibS - 14/Feb/12 with Jess Whitehead, Emily Roo

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Feb/12

Hidden - 14/Feb/12

Rick Ashton - Lead - 04/Feb/12 with Peter McCallum

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/12

I led P1 & P2, Zac coaching alongside on a separate rope. Tina belaying. Zac led the last pitch as we running short on time. Abbed off in the dark. Got ropes stuck. All food fun tho'. lean conditions.
stratandrew - Lead β - 31/Jan/12 with Tina Rupnik

Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/Jan/12

Led 2nd half of route.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 20/Jan/12 with Iain Gallagher, Scott Kirkhope

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Jan/12 with Matt Cooke

Tom Redmond - 2nd - Jan/12 with tom nichols

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/11

Awesome Route whats all this about abbing after the dificultys the hardest part was finding the way to the top in the dark and rain!
David86 - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/11 with Dickie Davis, james davis

Mountainman62 - 2nd - 30/Dec/11 with David86, James91

jfmchivall - AltLd O/S - 17/Dec/11 with Jeremy Morris

gee-whizz - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/11 with Tel-goatman, Gaz

jmaskill - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/11

Started a bit to the left probably. Fun go-anywhere climbing. Sam's first winter climb. Descended the buttress.
stevebarratt - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Sam Davies

Attempted this after backing off Shelf route, as the avalanche condition in the approach gully was far too dodgy. Climbed several pitches worth distance before abseiling off as it was becoming late.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/11 with Owen F

After steering towards Shelf route then backing off due to soft snow in Crowberry Gully, attempted North Buttress. However being late in the day/soft snow/other teams abbing off we decided to retreat. At the car around 4pm then had to dig a foot of snow from around the cars and track with help from another team. Called it a day and went home!
OwenF - 2nd dnf - 12/Mar/11 with Masa

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/11

Pete23 - 2nd - Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/11

Good snow apart from at top after all the pitches. Ab'd down in 5 abs. Took a while to get on right track/start in mist - doh. Thanks guys for returning dropped tat !
lithos - AltLd - 18/Feb/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11

superb
r_o_b_h2 - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Nik Goile

Entertaining climbing in good conditions. Lack of visibility meant we couldn't really take in the positions but still a great day out. The snow deteriorated into very loose powder just after the technical climbing finished. We carried on for one more pitch but decided to ab rather than head to the summit. The in situ belays didn't work out quite right as one ab was 65m :-)
Will Smith - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Rob

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/11

Guyinsas - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/11 with Campbell West

All lead by Gill - practice for impending assessment! Great route in good condition - helpful sticky snow :)
isi_o - 2nd - 16/Feb/11 with brian morrison, Gillian Culshaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/11

Behind a team of two and another of three meant Dave abbing off from the top pitch and a tricky descent in failing light, excellent downclimbing and route finding by Dave
Richie Rich - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/11 with Dave law

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/11

Good route though lacking in much consolidated snow low down. Abseiled down route as snow conditions on descent looked extremely dodgy.
jon59 - AltLd - 16/Feb/11

Quite a bit of spindrift, and the cracks were choked up with snow and ice. Good route though, abseiled off after the difficulties.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 15/Feb/11 with John Macdonald

A superb route - abed off after main pitches due to poor conditions and soft snow on top. Proper winter conditions with high winds and spindrift especially on approach; which we did from west (left) via curved ridge approach and bottom of crowberry basin - interesting in itself in the conditions :-0
jandyd05 - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/11 with Dave Kenyon, Julie Anglesea

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/11

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Nathan Sharp

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/11

robcrowther - 2nd - 09/Jan/11

Under a lot of fresh snow, but really good fun with nice positive steep sections.
fall-line - 2nd - 07/Jan/11 with Kenny

PAJames - 2011

Deep powder on way in & in the gully/chimney lines. Lots of clearing to do. No ice to speak of. Lovely day though.
KeithW - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with Joris Volmer, Kev

Deep powder snow and no ice made climbing really hard, had to dig out every hold and gear placement. Four long pitches plus a lot of wading through thigh-deep snow, 11.5h from car to car. Spooky walking around the summit in the dark.
Brendan - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Andy

Alastair MacSween - Solo - 30/Jun/10

Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/10 with Alex

Scrambled up to below the chimneys, but it was too warm, no frost, and was in poor summer condition rather than winter condition, so crossed over to curved ridge. Pretty disappointing :(
KeithAlexander - AltLd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with karinh

unbezonking - 28/Feb/10

Pucker condition, helpful neve, clear cracks, blue sky, excellent outing. Were followed by two happy Germans sampling the delights of Scottish winter...
whispering nic - AltLd - 22/Feb/10 with Ali Cashman

Spence22 - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Wil

amy - 2nd - 20/Feb/10 with will_he_fall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/10

Great route. Loads of snow. Hard for the grade.
Adi Hooper - AltLd - 17/Feb/10 with Roger Ward

topped out at 1 am, car battery flat when we got down, found some very spicey mixed climbing on it, matt started in bare feet
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with lee, matt

Lower pitches were in summer condition, middle of the route was out of condition with mushy snow and semi-frozen turf. Top of route was in excellent condition. Started route at 10.45am, finished 12.45am! Matt need to doff his big boots and climbed barefoot in order to climb the first pitch. Surely off route given the difficult climbing throughout. Felt tough in current conditions but a great mountaineering outing. Also, a flat car battery at 3am which meant were not at our hut until 5am...
Big Lee - 2nd - 11/Feb/10 with Tom Brookes, Matt Gordon

Brilliant route! We found it hard under soft snow and it felt much longer than we thought it would. Crappy near white-out conditions by the time we finished all the difficulties.
iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/10 with Sam Wood and Softie P

Hidden - 02/Feb/10

tubby two - Lead - Feb/10 with Softie P, Tinky

Part of Jagged Globe Course
efetunc - 2nd - Feb/10 with Andy Owen

First grade IV- felt long and hard under powder conditions (for me!) but a really great mountaineering route
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10 with Stuart

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

lots of swimming involved
Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 26/Dec/09 with kevin mcgrath

Brodie - 2nd - 12/Dec/09 with mikey

zoeduffin - 2nd - Dec/09

Theeni - AltLd - 08/Apr/09 with Matt Kemp

AB1965 - 15/Mar/09

John Kettle - AltLd - 10/Mar/09

Too warm, everything was melting. I tried the first pitch, but backed off. Richard lead it but we abbed off half way up the second pitch. Then witnessed a huge avalanche coming out of Great Gully. One of those 'learn a lot' days. Looks like it would be a great route, so we'll get back on it when things are a bit colder.
J Brown - AltLd dnf - 07/Mar/09 with RK

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 07/Mar/09

Jenko - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/09 with B L

Warmed up so snow only on upper reaches. Stunning views across Rannoch Moor. Mags led.
Andynsloan - 2nd rpt - 18/Feb/09 with Andre Zlattinger, Magnus Loutit

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/09

Hidden - Lead - Feb/09

mikemartin - AltLd dnf - 29/Jan/09

CT6419 - Solo - 2009

Hidden - 2009

good climbing in the first three pitches. lean conditions with powder made the climbing slightly harder than the grade would suggest.
mulletcocktail2000 - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/08 with john

Great weather but poor snow conditions.
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Mark Reid

Very cold, clear day with great views. Good mixed climbing with lots of positive hooks and holds. Started walk in 8am, summit at 8pm. Amazing stars and -12 in valley floor. Kings house to warm up then back to Edinburgh by 3.30am. Lots of deer on the roads, not a bad day out for my first winter climb!
prwalker - 2nd - 29/Nov/08 with Tom Wallbank, Helena Robinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/08

nukebat - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/08 with Colin

JulianD - 2nd - 03/Mar/08 with Dave Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Mar/08

John Kettle - AltLd - 05/Feb/08

Deep powder, hard going and time consuming.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 11/Jan/08 with Ewan

unconsolidated snow, similar difficulty to Ordinary Route, SCNL.
danm - AltLd - Jan/08 with Sion

joe king - Lead - 26/May/07 with simon and john

Excellent route, very soft snow conditions, first on route, good day
Stewart B - 2nd O/S - 21/Jan/07 with Colin Hastie

gregor - Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

Alastair MacSween - Lead - 01/Apr/06 with Graham Hunter, Phil Warriner

Great route even in poor conditions.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 19/Mar/06 with peter metcalfe

Fantastic route. Shaw ended up with all the technical pitches, which he dispatched in fine style. Scary exit across disintegrating snow slope at top of pitch 4, above that a splendid Alpine-style ridge leads to the summit.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 19/Mar/06 with Shaw Brown

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/06 with ross barnes

a_d_tru - AltLd - 18/Mar/06 with Neil W

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 05/Mar/06 with Andy C

Interesting conditions, fantastic weather. Took 4 hours.
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/06 with Charlie Everett

Best climb of the winter
Ross Barnes - AltLd - Mar/06 with Andy I

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

dsiska - Lead - 19/Feb/06 with Manfran, Nina

Poor snow consolidation making the technical grade a little harder. Good protection when required from mid sized rocks. 55m rope useful to reach the best belays!
RunningMan - Lead - 18/Feb/06 with Keith Bevan

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Feb/06

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/06

Meant to do Curved Ridge but followed some other climbers and... bit of an epic. Topped out in a blizzard. White out. 10 hours car to car.
Andynsloan - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/06 with Juliette Chrisman

ArnaudG - Feb/06 with Little John

NickST - AltLd O/S - Feb/06 with Phil Tucker

Good route.
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - Feb/06 with Andy Munro

easers - AltLd - Feb/06 with Doug Aitken

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 2006 with James Sutton

Alastair MacSween - Lead - 26/Feb/05 with Graham Hunter

sgl - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/05 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/05

Awesome
Christian Beck - Lead O/S - 2005

Richard Weller - AltLd - 31/Jan/04 with Euan Scott

Jamie B - Lead - 02/Jan/04 with Jamie Hagemann

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

akhughes - Lead O/S - 2004

With Tony
CMacD - 2004

Alastair MacSween - Solo - 06/Sep/03

JP guiding - lashing rain, descended Curved Ridge
Robbie H - 2nd - 09/Mar/03 with Jonathan Preston

Alastair MacSween - Solo - 19/Oct/02

Hidden - 01/Feb/02

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Jan/02

hmm.. got benighted on this after going slightly off route, getting an axe jammed in a crack and basically getting very very worried!! All part of lifes rich tapestry i guess though!
Mattyk - Lead - 30/Dec/01 with Jamie Moss & Ted

Alastair MacSween - Solo - 29/Sep/01

crowberry gully - 25/Mar/01 with Ross McGibbon

Alastair MacSween - Solo - 05/Aug/00

Hidden - Mar/00

nickcanute - AltLd - Feb/00 with tim parkinson

bandersnatch - Lead - Feb/00

Hidden - 2000

Tarquin - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

Dave Kerr - Lead - 29/Dec/99 with Dave Cashman

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Mar/99

Climbed as a rope of 3, can't remember who the other was? Each led a pitch. Like rockclimbing with snow!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Feb/99 with Al Metelko

Hidden - Lead - Feb/99

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Jan/98 with Tim Stain

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Jan/98 with Tim Blakemore

niall_mac - AltLd - Dec/97 with am_bodach

ColdAndWet - AltLd - 30/Dec/96 with Jok

Marti999 - 1994

colinakmc - Feb/92 with Dave Park

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/89

Was down as II in our guide. Was terrified for the entire trip! Happy that the weather was pants for the rest of the trip!
BigHairyIan - 2nd dog - 21/Feb/88 with Steve Waite (Little Steve)

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Jan/88

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 03/Jan/86 with Neville Elstone

GeoffG - AltLd - 23/Feb/79 with mick hardwick

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 108
hard V0 of 31
V0 of 31
easy V1 of 31
hard IV3 of 31
IV25 of 31
easy IV0 of 31
hard III2 of 31
III0 of 31
easy III0 of 31
hard 50 of 40
50 of 40
easy 51 of 40
hard 44 of 40
430 of 40
easy 45 of 40
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30 of 40
easy 30 of 40
3 Stars35 of 37
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
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Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
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dogged
dnf