UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

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Last update: 04/03/2024  

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15m. Start up the left pillar of the smaller of the caves on 2 bolts with no hangers to the corner. One hanger followed by another hangerless bolt leads to top bolt in corner. Traverse out right on the lip using the single bolt at arms reach and bomber cams in the left and right of the large eliptical hole in the roof. Upon reaching the rising vertical crack, cam, hook, swear and hope your way up to tree belay so sit and ponder whilst you're second has the enjoyable task of stripping the route. Alternatively, can be stripped on an abseil from the tree belay with some interesting rope work, or else setting up a second abseil from the very top of the crag which can be reached be a short walk around on the left of the cave to grab that tricky hard to reach gear that is on the left hand pillar

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Peak Limestone Cover
Peak Limestone (2020)
Rockfax
By Alan James, Chris Craggs
Peak Limestone - South Cover
Peak Limestone - South (2018)
British Mountaineering Council
By BMC
Guidebook correction for this climb
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Route of Interest
Dovedale
Middle Stump

Grade: A2 ***
(Dovedale)

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