|Incubus Direct||E3 5c,5a|
|43m, 2 pitches. New pegs Feb 2014 and some loose holds removed. Pumpy and creaky and probably worth E4 5c.
1.24m 5c Start 7m right of Call to Arms. Climb direct to two new pegs and make a big move up right to a jug. Advisable to clip a long sling to the peg well right on False Gods before taking the creaking jug rail leftwards to a rest (peg). Step left past a thread and make tricky moves up and then left to belay at the base of a groove as for Incubus.
2. 24 m 5b Tricky moves leftwards gain a slab. The loose and blocky left wall is climbed with great care to the top. Peg and nut belay.
Descend to an iron spike and abseil from it to the quarry floor.|
Pat Littlejohn Ed Grinley 25/Apr/1970
Photo: Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall. © Rik Meek