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|Devon > Sanctuary Wall >
|Incubus Direct|| E3 5c,5a|
<< Up in Arms
False Gods >>
|43m, 2 pitches. New pegs Feb 2014 and some loose holds removed. Pumpy and creaky and probably worth E4 5c.
1.24m 5c Start 7m right of Call to Arms. Climb direct to two new pegs and make a big move up right to a jug. Advisable to clip a long sling to the peg well right on False Gods before taking the creaking jug rail leftwards to a rest (peg). Step left past a thread and make tricky moves up and then left to belay at the base of a groove as for Incubus.
2. 24 m 5b Tricky moves leftwards gain a slab. The loose and blocky left wall is climbed with great care to the top. Peg and nut belay.
Descend to an iron spike and abseil from it to the quarry floor.|
Pat Littlejohn Ed Grinley 25/Apr/1970
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
In its new re-pegged form, E3 5c? Lowered off the tat instead of doing P2, some fun flake swinging, although still shedding holds.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14 with Nick B
steep,holds falling off
misterb - Lead dog - 03/Jun/14 with justin
Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/14
1 rest - should have stretched to a bigger hold.
alice fuller - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/14 with kafoozalem
I give it E4. pulled the eye out of one of the pegs.
hard climbing for E3.
Dave Searle - Lead - 11/Jun/11
Dave lead first pitch I lead second.
Chris_barr - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with Dave
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