Incubus Direct E3 5c,5a
[Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall., 2 kb]43m, 2 pitches. New pegs Feb 2014 and some loose holds removed. Pumpy and creaky and probably worth E4 5c.
1.24m 5c Start 7m right of Call to Arms. Climb direct to two new pegs and make a big move up right to a jug. Advisable to clip a long sling to the peg well right on False Gods before taking the creaking jug rail leftwards to a rest (peg). Step left past a thread and make tricky moves up and then left to belay at the base of a groove as for Incubus.
2. 24 m 5b Tricky moves leftwards gain a slab. The loose and blocky left wall is climbed with great care to the top. Peg and nut belay.
Descend to an iron spike and abseil from it to the quarry floor.
Pat Littlejohn Ed Grinley 25/Apr/1970

Photo: Fighting the pump on Incubus Direct, Sanctuary Wall. © Rik Meek
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This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/15

Not onsight as had gear beta from Pete and he had left a quickdraw in on fourth peg. Felt pumpy surprisingly quickly (so-called "flash pump"?) so was a bit of a battle. Very good and reasonably safe, but some holds lower down feel a bit snappy. Finished via reversal of p1 of Incubus - Pete led that one.
Brian H - Lead β - 01/Feb/15 with Kafoozalem

Led p1.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2015 with Colin

In its new re-pegged form, E3 5c? Lowered off the tat instead of doing P2, some fun flake swinging, although still shedding holds.
Justin T - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/14 with Nick B

steep,holds falling off
misterb - Lead dog - 03/Jun/14 with justin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/14

I give it E4. pulled the eye out of one of the pegs. hard climbing for E3.
Dave Searle - Lead - 11/Jun/11

Dave lead first pitch I lead second.
Chris_barr - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with Dave

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Total votes cast 9
hard E40 of 5
E40 of 5
easy E43 of 5
hard E31 of 5
E31 of 5
easy E30 of 5
hard E20 of 5
E20 of 5
easy E20 of 5
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